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Thread: HELP E36 keeps stalling and smell gas

  1. #1
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    HELP E36 keeps stalling and smell gas

    Hey guys i am new to bimmerforums and was looking for some help. I recently bought this beautiful e36 about 3 months ago after my new car was totaled because some idiot ran the red light.

    Yesterday while i was on my way to my cousins house i went to put gas and the idiot gas attendant put from E to about 3/4's worth of 87. Soon after i rev a bit and mess around and my car starts bogging and turns off. I start it up and its bogs and shuts off. So i pressed the gas just so i can get out of the area i am in and it stayed running but when i release the gas it slowly bogs then shuts off. i was able to hold the gas down a tiny bit while pressing the brakes so i can make it home. i need your guys help idk what this can be. is it the gas? also the check engine light comes on when the car starts bogging but when i give it gas it goes away. Currently once you turn it on it runs for a few secs then turns off but again if you press the gas it stays running rough and when you let it idle it turns off.

    any ideas?

  2. #2
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    Maybe fuel filter or something. Your car should be able to run on 87. What check engine light code are you getting?

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    You had a completely empty tank? Check the pre-filter in front of the fuel pump and check the fuel pump if it still delivers enough volume and pressure.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  4. #4
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    You really don't want to run your tank down to E, it's bad for the fuel pump, try to fill before you get that low.

    If the car was running fine before, then just fill it up the rest of the tank with premium. Always go to a gas station that has tons of customers buying gas, going for the cheapest station or one with few customers is usually not a good idea.

    If your new to this car, you might want to get a tune up if you don't have the service history. Test the engine for vacuum leaks, a smoke test is the best way to find them all. If you think the oxygen sensor is original then it's cheap and good to do. spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter.

  5. #5
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    sounds like a big air leak. smoke test it. you can easily do this by taking off the air box, and wrapping a plastic bag around the intake boot and tieing it down. Then disconnect the air vacuum line from the brake booster and blow smoke into from a swisher sweet or something similar. Super cheap and easy way of doing it. Do it somewhere dark and have a flashlight so you can spot the smoke.

  6. #6
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    I just changed the fuel filter and still nothing. . What happens is the car start and runs boggy and nasty as if there is no gas kinda it will drive too but. Once inhit the gas it starts the turning iff if i let go off the gas. And when i start it after that it just shuts off unless inhave my foot on the gas then it starts and runs as long as my foot has pressure on the gas pedal.

  7. #7
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    I can also smell a smell of gas when i get out of the car. Smells like its coming from under the car maybe not. Idk honestly i did replace the gas filter so i am quite confused now what do you guys think? Fuel pump?

  8. #8
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    Fuel filter is directional, was it installed correctly? If you smell fuel vapors then likely you have leaky hose (cracked) or a loose clamp.

    As asked earlier what codes are you getting?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    But i dont see any gas when i go under the car

  10. #10
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    Pull the rear seat and check for fuel pooling at the top of the left side fuel sender or the top of the fuel pump itself. The plastic tops are prone to developing small cracks and fuel will seep in this location when you fill the tank. The original oetiker hose clamps are also known the cut into the fuel hose and cause leaks. Most replace with worm style clamps. As stated above, running your tank to E could have allowed crud to get sucked into the pump filter causing a clog and reducing fuel pressure.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twistytee View Post
    Pull the rear seat and check for fuel pooling at the top of the left side fuel sender or the top of the fuel pump itself. The plastic tops are prone to developing small cracks and fuel will seep in this location when you fill the tank. The original oetiker hose clamps are also known the cut into the fuel hose and cause leaks. Most replace with worm style clamps. As stated above, running your tank to E could have allowed crud to get sucked into the pump filter causing a clog and reducing fuel pressure.
    Can the fuel pump be cleaned?

  12. #12
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    Maybe. There's a plastic mesh strainer on the bottom of the pick-up tube. It should catch larger debris but sludge could still enter in a low tank environment. The fuel also cools and lubricates the pump so if you repeatedly run them low they'll burn out. If you're smelling fuel but don't see signs under the car I'd wager one of the sending units is cracked. It's also possible you have a leak at the fuel pressure regulator and it's preventing adequate flow to the injectors. Fuel vapors are hard to localize but a bad FPR or flex line would smell more from the engine bay than rear of car.

  13. #13
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    Hmm i still havent been able tomfix this

  14. #14
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    Guys i need help. What should i check next? Should i just replace the fpr?

  15. #15
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    Check the fuel pressure. For e real good test you need testing eqipment which you probably do not have.
    Therefore just pull the vacuum hose from the FPR: if fuel runs/drops out = FPR defective.
    Testing for a leaking, ruptured, fuel pressure regulator diaphragm
    That is a good analysis. How to verify the cause of an intermittent long crank and a start/stall condition. No need to have the electronics as shown first (because we backyard mechanics do not have them anyway), just remove the vacuum hose and sniff if there is fuel smell or even fuel coming out. Watch for fuel. Takes over a minute that fuel is coming out of the port in this vid, diaphragm cracked. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKtR_yF7bi8
    To be on the safe side, I would connect on the fuel pressure vacuum connector a transparent hose and lead it out of engine bay into a container/bottle, just in case a lot of fuel is splashing out.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  16. #16
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    So there are more then two hoses on a fuel pressure reg? Can you send pics

  17. #17
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    Did the gas attendant put E85 or something instead of regular gas??

    If this was an old gas station then its possible you got bad gas and that it's clogged the screen on the filter on the fuel pump, but this isn't common. You can remove the fuel pump just to check if the screen is clogged. Would be wise to get a new o-ring gasket before doing so.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by lolhany View Post
    So there are more then two hoses on a fuel pressure reg? Can you send pics
    use your VIN here and you see the drawings under fuel preparation system http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do
    example: 11 is the vacuum hose http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_0366
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by lolhany View Post
    Guys i need help. What should i check next? Should i just replace the fpr?
    Have you done anything that's been suggested so far? Vacuum leaks, fuel pump filter, top up with higher octane fuel, scan codes.

  20. #20
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    How do install a fuel pressure regulator? Where is it located? Is it behind the injection thingie?

    - - - Updated - - -

    I changed the fuel filter, i topped off the gas, i ordered an FPR and will install it, tomorrow i will check the codes.

  21. #21
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    How do install a fuel pressure regulator? Where is it located?
    see my post # 18
    Fuel pressure testing DIY E36 http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1212235
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  22. #22
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    Installed the fpr made no difference....

  23. #23
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    I do not understand completely, did you install a new fuel pressure regulator? Or was there no fuel pressure regulator installed before?
    Did you test the fuel pressure regulator?
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  24. #24
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    What are your codes? That should've been step 1

  25. #25
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    I suppose it's always possible the fuel smell is un related. Could it be an IAC? TPS? or possible MAF issue?

    As stated previously the CODES will tell you or at least US much more than this thread has to date.
    Shut the $%&*nig hood and drive it!

    1. 85' EtaCoupe - Sold
    2. 86' EtaSedan - Swapped m20b25 - Sold
    3. 89' 325i Sedan- Sold
    4. 90' 325i Sedan- Sold
    5. 90' Cabrio - Tree'd
    6. 88' sedan - M50 swapped DD

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