I have a 2008 528i that is not cranking
I insert the key and everything lights up as normal, the steering wheel comes down, iDrive comes on, everything engages - it just does not crank at all when I push the button. However! It did crank the first time, for a few seconds it sounded normal, cranked then I heard a series of clicks. The best way to describe that is it sounded like something was phasing out, or fading or slowing stopping ...
after that it no longer cranks at all. I have jumped it a couple times, took the battery out had it tested and recharged even though its brand new within the last 6 months, disconnected the IBS and just because I had a new one laying around I replaced the main relay - all of this has made zero change. I also tapped on the starter hoping it would have some effect and it did nothing.
I finally got it towed home so I can at least do more invasive work on it. However, I would love to test the solenoid but I can not reach it without taking stuff out. I was searching for the extension of the voltmeter and not finding one without ordering it online and waiting. I ordered a starter just so I have it if it needs to be replaced, I am leaning towards it being the starter but something is telling me its not the starter or could be something else.
I want to know what can I do to isolate the starter - to know if it is good or bad - what I want to avoid is taking all this stuff out, replacing the starter, putting it all back and in the end the car still isn't starting. I am perfectly ok taking it to the dealer for a diagnostic, but I want to be sure I can't figure this out first. I even thought maybe it's the brake is not engaging, but upon testing this I see that it is so its not that.
I am thinking possibly it could be a fuse, could be the solenoid not getting power, could still be an IBS issue I guess ...
Ideas?
Last edited by mo99; 06-07-2017 at 02:27 AM.
update: I have these fault codes currently:
(I did just take the battery out, have it checked and charged and put back in so some of these will clear when/if I can drive it)
Engine:
2DEC - Power management, battery
Transmission:
507D
507B
Heater & air conditioning:
E714
9C54
Traction/stability control:
6DFB
5EBA
Airbags:
93D0 - Undervoltage
Instrument cluster:
A559
Steering column:
951A
Car access system:
A0B4
I would first check that the battery is good by charging it out of the car, waiting overnight, and then reading the voltage. If it has declined measurably then your battery is not good.
Is there a "click" when you press the start button? If not, then power is not even getting to the starter solenoid. If there is a click, then the issue is either the starter motor or power robbing (near-invisible) corrosion at all the connection points / terminals from the battery boost terminal in the engine compartment down to the starter motor.
Here is what I did for my E60 M5. Note that it would only give a single "click" and not start. Post #7 has a summary - but the earlier ones show everything that I tried to isolate where the power drain was happening.
In a nutshell, the issue is that very little oxidation on power cable terminals (including in the engine compartment) can lead to power drops and insufficient juice to turn the starter motor. I took the battery out of the car, hooked up a little jumper cable where the ignition signal plugs into the starter solenoid, and then a regular jumper to the power terminal on the starter. I connected the battery's negative post to ground in the engine compartment. I connected the other end of the little jumper cable to the other end of the big jumper cable. By touching this to the battery's positive terminal, I was able to get the starter motor to turn. This showed that it was good and that it was a power drop from the battery terminal in the engine compartment to the starter motor.
It could also be a ground cable issue in the engine compartment. You can check for ground by jumping the starter motor case to the motor mount with a multimeter set to indicate ground. If there is none, then it's your grounding cable(s).
I would also google BMW E60 IVM - which is a plastic box of fuses that gives up the ghost. I don't remember if it's only the E39, or also the E60 (non-M) cars.
Last edited by gmak; 06-07-2017 at 01:13 PM.
gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i
"Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."
I have done exactly that with the battery (take it out, had it checked and fully charged even though its new) and the battery is perfect.
There is no click.
I am unclear on how to jump the starter motor to the motor mount
Thanks!
If there is no click then the ignition wire isn't providing a signal to the starter solenoid.
gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i
"Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."
yea I was finally able to test it with some help and indeed the starter is getting no power so it is currently at the dealer ...
it was the starter. It has since been fixed.
Thanks for the followup.
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