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Thread: Rusty Fuel Tank - Need Help

  1. #1
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    Post Rusty Fuel Tank - Need Help

    Hi everyone,

    I am planning to restore a 1988 e32 730i (m30b30) 5MT that has been sitting under trees since 1995.
    It has about 195 000 km ( 121 000 miles), but has been aged due to sitting.

    I want to make the engine run, but the fuel tank is actually pretty rusty from the inside. I drained about 10L from it, opened the tank from the top (where the fuel pump is) and took a look.
    20170601_184752.jpg20170601_184801.jpg


    Does anyone have an idea about how to treat the tank ? sandblasting ? using chemicals ?
    The same question goes for the fuel pump that has been sitting in there. Do you think soaking it in chemicals might help to free it ? It certainly is seazed due to humidity.

    That you for reading and for your help.

    Seb.

  2. #2
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    CLR, Muriatic Acid, Coca Cola, Vinegar, etc
    Last edited by XAlt; 06-03-2017 at 03:51 PM.

  3. #3
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    Maybe not rust, but bad fuel. Had the same on a car stored for years.
    Copied from At Lube-Tech:

    Oxidation and Bad Fuel

    Specifically, stale gasoline or bad fuel is fuel that has oxidized. Gasoline can begin to degrade and oxidize 30 days after its pumped. During oxidation, fuel molecules become less stable. As fuel oxidizes it can turn to gum and clog jets and other openings in the fuel system, leading to non-starting or poor running conditions. Gummed up carburetors cause serious problems in power equipment that sees intermittent use or long periods of storage.

    I removed the tank and made Electrolytic Rust Removal
    Google search for: remove rust baking soda battery charger http://www.instructables.com/id/Elec...val-aka-Magic/
    Last edited by shogun; 06-03-2017 at 04:52 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  4. #4
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    The problem with that level of rust, is that it may fail. You can do whatever to remove it, but you would certainly need to spray-line it with something. Really, if I had a tank like that I would replace it. My car say for many years and there is zero rust. So you don't need to go new, just find a nice used tank. The pump, I would not bother. Just replace. There are very affordable options for new pumps.

    Your next concern would be the metal fuel lines....

    By the way, rust in the system can be catastrophic to proper operation. It will quickly clog filters and injectors. As I am sure you can guess.
    ______________________________
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  5. #5
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    thank you everyone for the replies.

    I guess i will give a try to removing the rust with one of the substances you mentionned.

    @unity : why should I be that concerned with the metal fuel lines ? Aren't those simply leading to the expansion tank ? I guess that they will de-rust likewise the rest of the tank, otherwise i still have the option to swap it with a healty one.

  6. #6
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    Here I how I did it with my Highline tank
    first washing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gw7tCiw6B_s
    then electrolytic rust removal https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rz5C3KRmwHg
    worked well
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  7. #7
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    If the tank is that rusty, there had to have been water in it. If there was water I the tank before being parked, then it would have easily been pumped into the lines. There are numerous metal fuel lines.
    ______________________________
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  8. #8
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    Very interesting videos, shogun. So the - is connected to the steel bar, and + grounding the tank ?

    @unity well i dont think that the rest of the fuel system is damaged, as when i removed the fuel lines on top of the pump, the gas was still lightly yellow / clear unlinke the old rusty amber gas in the tank that rather looks like a 30-year-old whisky. I guess that in 22 years , water or not, the tank has had the time to rust that far.

  9. #9
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    So something to think about is all the chemicals that will get rid of the rust but what you may not be thinking about is that the rust used to be the metal of the tank. So, the tank has oxidized over time, meaning its given part of its own makeup to be this new "rusty" substance, so. what youll end up with after you remove the rust is a THINNER tank holding your gas... which isnt great. So, try it, coat it, but... finding a new tank is easier and cheaper





  10. #10
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    @6erWebb : Hello there. I have thought about that, that's why i will make sure that the tank is rigid enough after repair before mounting it back onto the car, otherwise getting a healthy tank still is a better solution. Thank you for helping

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saibbe View Post
    Very interesting videos, shogun. So the - is connected to the steel bar, and + grounding the tank ?
    More info http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
    http://www.secondchancegarage.com/pu...cleaning-1.cfm
    google for: electrolytic rust removal
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  12. #12
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    Just get another tank

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    You can use e34 plastik tank. The biggest is 90 liters as the smallest for e32. Just some simple modifications and you will have new tank.

  14. #14
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    New tanks cost upwards of $750 and used ones are nearly impossible to find. Erich, did you just use a battery charger for the power source? I can set mine to 2A which is used for trickle charge. That should be fine considering the size of the tank.

    Other than that, I was looking at the muriatic acid technique as well, but id have to make sure to neutralize it before pouring out, the part that worries me.

    BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
    1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///

  15. #15
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    You can probably find shops that do tank restoration which may be a cheaper solution. If they are honest, they will tell you whether it is worth it or not.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SergeBMW View Post
    Erich, did you just use a battery charger for the power source? I can set mine to 2A which is used for trickle charge. That should be fine considering the size of the tank.
    yes, I used a battery charger. But most of the stuff which we first thought is rust was actually degraded gasoline, which turned to red color gums.
    Use google search for: rust removal baking soda electrolysis, or rust removal washing soda electrolysis, you find a lot of info
    http://www.instructables.com/id/Elec...val-aka-Magic/
    https://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/...ashingSoda.htm

    of course a pro shop that does tank restoration whill probably make it perfect.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    yes, I used a battery charger. But most of the stuff which we first thought is rust was actually degraded gasoline, which turned to red color gums.
    Use google search for: rust removal baking soda electrolysis, or rust removal washing soda electrolysis, you find a lot of info
    http://www.instructables.com/id/Elec...val-aka-Magic/
    https://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/...ashingSoda.htm

    of course a pro shop that does tank restoration whill probably make it perfect.
    You may be right on that, I had the same feeling about the rust which might be mostly degraded fuel. I will drop the tank and pressure wash it first to see what I am working with. The car sat for 2 years before I purchased it.

    BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
    1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///

  18. #18
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    In the E34 for sale/classifieds section someone is planing to part an E32 750iL from 1989, tell him what you need, see the thread Feeler-E32-750il
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    In the E34 for sale/classifieds section someone is planing to part an E32 750iL from 1989, tell him what you need, see the thread Feeler-E32-750il
    Thanks! I would have never checked there! I just posted, hope he is willing to part those out for me.

    BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
    1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///

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