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Thread: New member, first e36

  1. #26
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    1998 328i
    Mine is currently run just like this one. This picture isn't of my engine, I just found it on the web.
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  2. #27
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    Thanks and I will have your srs tool in the mail tomorrow.

  3. #28
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    E36, E70, i3
    Yup, that's how mine is run as well.

  4. #29
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    May 2017
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    1998 328i
    I'm about 1/2 through replacing the front suspension. I'm replacing the struts, strut mounts, sway bar links, control arms & bushings. I got the right side done, and most of the left torn apart before running out of energy last night. The front suspension has been noisy but it is especially bad after I have been driving a long time or it is hot out so I was expecting to find some deteriorated rubber but so far the bushings and sway linkages haven't looked too bad. The strut mount on the right felt pretty bad and I haven't pulled the left one yet. I would really like to find a smoking gun to the source of this noise. The steering rack and right tie rod end were replaced before I bought the car in order to get it through inspection, for some reason the left tie rod end wasn't replaced and it looks pretty bad, I cannot feel any play but the cover is torn up and I'm replacing it as well. I have a pile of parts waiting to go into the car:
    - vanos line
    - power steering pump pulley (the plastic one is breaking up)
    - idler pulley (replacing the missing one to provide better belt contact with alternator pulley)
    - AC pulley
    - multi-display lights
    - air bag passenger occupancy sensor and module (didn't feel comfortable with the bypass)

  5. #30
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    1998 328i
    I'm continuing to update if for no other reason than to track my own progress. I'm not doing any interesting performance updates really just catching up on deferred maintenance and age related wear. Admittedly I'm only using OEM parts at best and value parts at worst, no performance pieces at least until I get the car up to a sustainable condition. I may be taking on a couple less common repairs that are less documented and may be of interest to others but aside from that, I'm not doing anything that hasn't been covered in DIY's. I'm happy to answer any questions as the repairs are fresh in my mind and my parts sourcing is current. I also need to take more pictures. This is my daily driver so I'm digging into one repair at a time and trying to avoid driving my old backup (it has it's old issues that aren't worth fixing but it does still run and I can use it in a pinch).

    Progress updates: I'm still working to finish installation of the boxes of parts that have been showing up over the past couple of weeks. Finished replacement of front suspension. I finished most of the suspension Monday night and did a piss poor job of setting the toe in and left the sway (anti-roll) bar out. Tuesday I corrected the toe, installed the sway and new linkages, tightened the right strut nut that I had failed to fully seat on Monday night. I had not replaced struts before that were not preloaded with springs so that was first for me. I ended up with a free spring compression tool because advance auto was discontinuing it and it rang up to $0.05. The clerk threw a nickel in the register and wished me a good day. This made my day until used it and realized it was being discontinued for good reason 5 cents was a fair price for it. I got the job done but used some straps and my massive bench vice to aid the process. I installed cheap Monroe struts and was foolishly expecting new perches and rubber spring seats (whatever they are called) to be included. I also made the mistake of using Uro strut mounts, the bearings feel like crap as soon as the strut nut was tightened. The control arm replacement was easy and I'm glad I order pre-mounted bushings, getting a wrench on the inner ball joint nut was the only real awkward part of the job. I will likely pull the struts back out at some point and put better strut mounts in it. I also replaced the passenger occupancy sensor and the module it connects to. My Vanos should have been first and it is a short job but the engine was still hot and I wanted to get the reset tool back to it's owner before going out of town tomorrow. My passenger side turn signal housing retaining clip is warped and the housing was periodically jettisoning out of the bracket slides which is an embarrassing look and going to damage the wiring. As a temp fix I used a wire tie to retain it back, it looks fine because the slides orient it properly, it can't come forward and the tie is hidden from sight. I attempted the multi-display double sided tape repair job 2 weeks ago and while it is much improved, I didn't get the thickness right and I'm still missing a few pixels but with new bulbs it is now legible and my clock is clearly visible. Pelican parts has a good right up on the occupancy sensor replacement but I'd be happy to answer any specific questions while it is fresh in my mind. I know most people just do the $10 bypass but I do some things differently I guess. My coolant level has been constant over the last 1,500 miles. I think my initial use and HG panic was just a lack of poor bleeding. My coolant looks like coolant and my oil looks like oil. I'm still going to pick up a m52 to have on hand. Near term projects are the Vanos line, pulley and belt replacements, steering lines. The age of my cooling system is unknown, I don't think the radiator is original, it's OEM as far as I can tell but one of the clips is missing and the plastic does not appear or feel 22 years old, can't tell anything about the water pump by looking at it, the thermostat housing is metal and believe that means it has been upgraded. I don't run the piss out of this thing, own a tow dolly and don't commute on busy roads so I'm not giving a cooling system replacement the priority that everyone recommends but I will get around to it. I would like to delete the belt driven fan and go electric at the same time.

    I do have a question if anyone is reading this, was there a stock auxiliary electric fan that mounted in front of the condenser (pusher) or was this an option? I see replacement stock auxiliary as well as electric conversion fans listed on part websites but do not see any evidence that my car ever had an auxiliary fan.
    Last edited by gdavid; 06-21-2017 at 11:02 AM.

  6. #31
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    E36, E70, i3
    Yes, screw that inner CA nut. Did my suspension earlier this year, loved it when my wife would wander outside after an hour and ask how things are going. Oh good...nearly got this one nut off.

    Rad should have a plaque on the top with the manufacture date, which at least should give a hint. Need to pull off the plastic shroud thing on top to see it.

    Yes, plastic t-stat housings are stock. So someone has been in there. I'll let you decide if you consider that an upgrade or not

    I'm 99% positive all US E36s had an aux fan in front of the condenser. Kicks on with the AC and if your cooling system needs it, but you're basically in danger territory already if it does. Mine doesn't kick on with AC, another thing I need to look at.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Central Wisconsin
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    '94 325i, '93 325is
    There should be a pusher fan in front of the A/C condenser. Once you get one installed it can be modified with OE parts to run sooner. Swap the sensor in the side of the radiator to an 80/88C one rather than the 90/99C stock one. Bavauto lists them both under cooling section when you enter your car I have run mine with the 80/88C switch and no mechanical fan for almost 50k miles with no issues, I also have a Stewart water pump (highly recommended).
    '94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    '93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
    '04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
    '05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k

  8. #33
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    May 2017
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    1998 328i
    I had a pretty major accomplishment this morning. Drove it to work for the first time without any dash lights coming on, no more airbag light, no check control issues, no ASC light and no check engine light. Yes, the bulbs are still good but at the moment I have worked through all of the issues that were triggering them. The most recent was the brake pedal position sensor repair, I am very grateful for that DIY because I would have never dug into it otherwise and it saved me over $100, let alone pointing me in the right direction as to what to fix. Finally replaced my leaking vanos line so I'm expecting a reduction in oil losses. The dash lights is pretty major for me because my wife will be more comfortable using it now, and I hadn't felt comfortable with driving my last car for a long time due to high mileage and frequent issues.

    I went to add the fan belt idler but the top alternator bolt was too short. I still plan on addressing this because I want better contact between the alternator and the belt so I need to size up the bolt and be sure and get a high grade one. That idler looks like it creates a lot of bending moment on the end of that bolt. My next project will be replacing the mechanical fan with and electric unit and this will increase the load on the alternator. Since my auxiliary fan is missing in action, I'm going to configure the new fan to turn on either with the A/C compressor and a 80/88C radiator sensor. The A/C works great in my car even without the auxiliary fan, I rarely sit in traffic so the condenser gets plenty of airflow as the car moves but I want to get rid of the mechanical fan anyway for easy of access if no other reason. My compressor clutch is noisy and that does need to be addressed soon. If I could get a substantial enough pusher fan to place in front of the condenser this would free up a lot of space in front of the engine and I would love to do this but there is probably a good reason it is not commonly done (probably because these guys just leave the auxiliary fan in place and rely on it). Ideally I'd like to fit a two speed pusher fan in front of the condenser mostly to provide a quieter operation 98% of the time but reserving additionally capacity if needed. While I'm at it I also plan to replace the water pump, change the timing cover gaskets, replace the radiator, replace the thermostat & housing and the heater control valve. It looks like I'll be dumping parts into it for the foreseeable future but it is continuing to keep up for my 80 mile daily commute so I won't complain. Oh, and I'm pulling those crap uro strut mounts back out and replacing them as soon as I get the chance.

  9. #34
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    So I failed to take everyone's sage advice and did not replace my water pump in time. It self destructed yesterday on my way home, I don't think I caused any major damage but I am being rushed into my cooling system update a little sooner than I hoped for. The bearings in the water pump came apart and this threw the pulley out of alignment as well as tearing off the stamped metal impeller. Typically bearings fail due to a leaking seal but I had not seen any evidence of a leak beforehand and it felt the pump for smoothness and endplay a couple of weeks ago when I replaced the belt tensioner. The engine did not overheat and the radiator fan did not get into the radiator. The plastic fan blades contacted the shroud and both are damaged but it was pretty minor. I'm am it replacing with an electric fan. My biggest regret was not ordering the quality parts I wanted ahead of time and now using what I can get quickly. I may end up doing this all over again but hopefully everything will be a little easier to work on with the mechanical fan out of the way.

  10. #35
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    I got the car back on the road and it seems no worse for the wear. I didn't install the electric fan yet, still have the mechanical and don't have any auxiliary fan. I still need to tackle this project but was in a hurry to get the car back on the road. I didn't get the spal fan or prepared kit, I bought what I could get quickly from local suppliers so I will have to sort out a couple of issues for the install. I'd like to install the fan I bought as a pusher and if it is capable of keeping the mechanical clutch from engaging on a hot day, I will remove the mechanical fan at that point. The water pump that fell apart had a metal impeller, the bearing basically disintegrated which is usually caused by a leaking seal rusting out the bearing but I did not see any evidence of it leaking. When the bearing failed, the impeller dug into the aluminum of the timing chain cover and was torn off of the shaft. When I installed the new pump, the impeller rubbed (slightly) on the scarred timing chain cover so I had to pull it back out and trim the mangled aluminum that it was rubbing on.

    My 80 mile a day commute is probably a bit silly for a 21 year old car but it is what I'm using it for. So far it is pretty cost effective and fun to drive. i bought a m52b25 for $150 off ebay today and will pick it up tomorrow. Supposedly it ran fine when pulled from a wreck but who knows but it is a pretty cheap chance to take. It includes an alternator and starter so their value as spares offsets the cost pretty well. If the head is in good shape I will have made out very well. I planned on going through any engine I picked up but this one will require a crank, connecting rods and cams to make it a direct replacement. From what I can tell, the pistons are close enough to work. If I can end up with a fresh m52b28 with new rings, bearings and gaskets for around $1k I will have done very well. If any machining is required my budget is shot but I won't be out very much and I don't need the engine right now anyway. It is tempting to build it up as a 3 liter but I doubt it is worth the cost for my purposes. I'm still thinking about it though. Aside from the budget, my biggest hesitation is needing a tune to make it worthwhile and not being a one for one replacement anymore.

  11. #36
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    M52b25

    I haven't added any pics for a while so here is the spare I picked up for $150. Miles unknown and it isn't a 2.8 but I couldn't pass on the price and local pickup. The car burned after the wreck, the fire must have been front drivers side because the oil filter cover, part of the serpentine belt and the valve cover above the Vanos got hot enough to melt. Alternator is only good for a core. I think I got my money's worth. The seller and I lowered it from a tailgate to a hitch mount cargo carrier by hand, glad we weren't going the other way. This motor weights way too much to only make 170 hp.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh, and this motor didn't have an idler pulley either FWIW.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #37
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    I would caution you against running purely a pusher, since pullers are better in this application. But I like your approach of giving it a go with the mechanical one still in the loop first.

  13. #38
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    As long as the pusher fan is keeping the mechanical clutch cool enough so it isn't (fully) engaging, it really isn't contributing any significant parasitic loss.

    My only reason I would like to avoid a mechanical or electrical fan behind the radiator is for ease of access and inspection but if I can install an electrical fan in such a way for quick removal without disconnecting hoses it would be good enough.

    I'm really looking forward to pulling this engine apart to see how it looks but I should clean up my shop and get organized first. If the head is good, the smartest thing may be selling it to finance the purchase of a complete m52b28. A good head (chuckle) seems to bring more money than a complete engine with the head in unknown condition. Shipping is really the biggest limitation, there are plenty of used parts out there but shipping adds up fast and there is only so far I'm willing to drive.
    Last edited by gdavid; 07-28-2017 at 03:32 PM.

  14. #39
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    89 750iL | 91 325iX
    Quote Originally Posted by boarder2k7 View Post
    Firestone has a $200 lifetime option as well
    Wow, and all these times I have had my car aligned once or twice a year due to suspension changes I could have done that

  15. #40
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    While I have sworn to myself that I won't buy any parts until I confirm the head and block are sound, I have been keeping an eye out for parts, specifically comparing prices of 84mm versus 89.6mm stroke cranks.

    As with much of ebay, there is plenty of mislabeling out there and I can't see the difference at glance. It took me a while to figure it out and it may be obvious to everyone else, the the casting number is the last digit of the part number listed on realoem minus 1. For example there are several 75 mm stroke cranks listed as 328 compatible (they aren't), they have a casting number of 1432274 but the part number on realoem is 11211432275. I'm sure (and hope) that someone will correct me on this if I am wrong.

    edit: this convention does not seem to work for the s54
    Last edited by gdavid; 07-30-2017 at 07:29 PM. Reason: correction

  16. #41
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    M52b25 Head

    I pulled the head off of the spare engine I picked up and to my eye, it appears to be good. I cannot see any cracks or sign of head gasket leakage. Overall the engine looks good. The cams look great and the cylinder walls show cross hatching. I hope to take the head to a machine shop this week for a look over. The cylinder 1 plug was rusty and I didn't think to vacuum it out before removing the plug, (I wanted to feel for TDC) so the was junk in that cylinder when I removed the head. If everything check out, the plan is for a m54b30 rotating assembly and trimmed intake cam.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by gdavid; 08-15-2017 at 05:43 AM.

  17. #42
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    20170814_232432.jpg

    Here you can see the junk that fell into cylinder 1. There were little shards of glass. I need to go back and look at the spark plug. The cylinders needed to be thoroughly honed at the very least and likely bored to provide a smooth surface for a longer piston stroke. Still on the fence between 2.8 and 3.0.
    Last edited by gdavid; 08-15-2017 at 02:12 PM.

  18. #43
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    Decision made on the displacement, ordered the 89.6 mm crank yesterday. Probably going stock m54b30 pistons and rods but will confirm the cylinder measurements first.

  19. #44
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    Couple of questions for anyone knowledgeable that may be reading this:

    Are factory rods and caps marked for identification? I haven't pulled my oil pan off yet but I am shopping for used m54b30 rods & pistons and some of the cheaper ebay listings show the rod caps in a pile. If they are marked it is fine but I have no desire to play mix and match with them and will pay more if I need to.

    Does anyone sell a reputable and complete overhaul kit including all bearings (assuming stock tolerances), bolts and gaskets? I see reasonably priced ones for m54 engines (no idea about the quality) but haven't seen any for m52. I am considering taking a chance on the m54 kit as the bearings and rings are correct but most of the gaskets would not fit. I understand that the m52 rings would not work with m54b30 pistons anyway.

  20. #45
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    Breezed thru emissions testing and dropped the head off at the machine shop for inspection and possible valve work

  21. #46
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    97' m52 turbo
    First off, congrats on the low mileage purchase.

    If I were you I would have got the cooling system straight before driving it all. That's the first thing you do when you get one of these cars.

    Be careful getting engines off eBay

    Any particular reason why your tearing the motor down? Strictly performance?

    Its blatantly obvious when one of these cars have a cracked or blown HG. White smoke pours out of the exhaust, coolant bubbles in reservoir, coolant blows out of the tank, and the car overheats instantly.

    I would find it hart to believe that car with an e36 69,XXX miles has engine problems unless you exhibiting the above symptoms or it has been money shifted... Should be as simple as replacing the cooling system and driving it with that kind of mileage

    m52b28 are out there for cheap. I just picked up a whole front end "clip" of car. Engine, Harness, Transmission and various other pieces for $200.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    First off, congrats on the low mileage purchase.

    If I were you I would have got the cooling system straight before driving it all. That's the first thing you do when you get one of these cars.

    Be careful getting engines off eBay

    Any particular reason why your tearing the motor down? Strictly performance?

    Its blatantly obvious when one of these cars have a cracked or blown HG. White smoke pours out of the exhaust, coolant bubbles in reservoir, coolant blows out of the tank, and the car overheats instantly.

    I would find it hart to believe that car with an e36 69,XXX miles has engine problems unless you exhibiting the above symptoms or it has been money shifted... Should be as simple as replacing the cooling system and driving it with that kind of mileage

    m52b28 are out there for cheap. I just picked up a whole front end "clip" of car. Engine, Harness, Transmission and various other pieces for $200.
    Just to clarify, the m52b28 in my car is running fine but I suspect the mileage on it (and the car), I briefly convinced myself the HG was going out and just wanted a spare motor on hand. I should have completely replaced the cooling system when bought the car but I didn't, I ended up replacing the water pump 5k miles ago. The rest of the cooling system was replaced in 2007 and I'm leaving them alone till I'm ready to repower the car.

    The engine I'm tearing down and rebuilding is a m52b25 I bought off ebay, it was local to me and only $150. It would have made more sense to wait and buy a 2.8 motor but I didn't. The b25 looks very fresh with the exception of crap in cylinder 1. My best guess being that the spark plug was pulled and crap fell in. The head looks good and the all of the cylinder walls still show good cross hatching. I'm building the motor back up with a m54b30 crank, pistons and rods. My rational is that I would want fresh gaskets, bearings and rings in any motor before putting it into the car anyway so why not spend a bit and increase the displacement while I'm in there. I expect to have about $1300 in it when it is all said and done. The project scope will probably grow a bit, a modified m54b30 intake cam and m50 intake manifold are likely.
    Last edited by gdavid; 08-31-2017 at 01:07 PM.

  23. #48
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    I should be going back together with this engine soon. My crank arrived and looks great. The rods, pistons, cam, bearings, rings, and gaskets are on the way. The machine shop should be done with my head next week, the machinist thought it looked pretty good when I dropped it off so a light lap of the valves, seats and new valve stem seals should have it ready go go. My compression ratio should remain very similar. Between the displacement, mild cam upgrade and intake manifold I will need a tune. I hope to end up with at least 230 hp at the crank.
    Last edited by gdavid; 09-06-2017 at 11:32 PM.

  24. #49
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    Thoughts on my ongoing m52b30 build.

    All of the well documented part swaps for these cars (or anything) inherently drives up the prices like M50 manifolds, used s50 & s52 cams, etc. In the grand scheme of things, it is a pretty small premium to pay because you know it is going to work versus the guys who figured it out the first time. The majority of these things are figured out by guys with a lot more knowledge and understanding of the cars, who have the parts laying around already because they work on a lot of them, in a machine shop or have access to good pick a part lots. The first guys are able to get the parts for next to nothing because they know were to look and are just very connected and knowledgeable. Guys like myself who are coming way late to the party end up paying a stupid tax for not figuring things out for ourselves and being band wagoner's, which is fair and fine. Unfortunately a great number of these parts end up laying around when projects go unfinished but such is life. I've run across two other guys in my area who have bought at least some of the parts to build a m52b30 and changed their minds for one reason or another. Savvy salvage yards have always recognized desirable parts and priced them accordingly but online auctions have had a huge impact to valuing the market for the most unimaginable things. So far I've bought all of my used parts from ebay because I'm not connected and while I drive past a huge used auto part distributor's home operation every day, they aren't going to break down an engine to sell a couple parts out of it, they will sell the whole assembly.

    The last major component I bought was my intake cam from a m54b30 which isn't a huge upgrade but makes sense because it is cost effective improvement. During the short time I have been gathering parts, this particular cam is harder to come by for less than $100. To determine my budget and whether I wanted to bother with this, I priced out everything and these cams were readily available between $75-$90. Now they are running about $190. I finally found one in good shape for $70. ZHP cams are demanding stupid prices and is seemly senseless for a 10 hp bump for e46 guys but I'm sure plenty of people would say the juice isn't worth the squeeze for my project. I never found a number for the ZHP intake but here is the intake for an m54b30 (or at least I hope so).
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #50
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    A bit bummed, got word from the machinist that the head was incredibly warped and beyond salvation. I have a line on one locally and really hope it is good. I need to stop by the machine shop and learn how to identify the damage in hopes of avoiding another bad one.

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