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Thread: Tips on cooling system refresh

  1. #1
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    Tips on cooling system refresh

    Getting ready to do a new cooling system on my 330. Plan is to do the usual items...radiator, expansion tank, pump, tstat and housing, upper/lower hoses. My clutch fan is still good. I'm a little confused with the hoses. I don't see the normal radiator hose clamps. My car is an auto tranny. Does that change anything ?

  2. #2
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    While you're in there, replace EVERYTHING, especially the two coolant pipes that are under the intake manifold. They rot from the inside out where they mount to the engine. Remove the intake manifold to gain access - believe me, it's easier. And before removing the intake manifold, stuff shop rags or paper towels down the holes where you gain access to the mounting nuts - you WILL drop some of them. Replace the manifold profile gaskets when you put it back together.

    The reason you don't see hose clamps listed separately is that the main hoses don't use clamps - they have o-ring fittings and spring clips that allow them to simply snap into place. It's a really slick system for putting everything together. The water hoses for the heater core have built-in hose clamps. The only connections that have discrete hose clamps are on the heater water control valve. When you put it back together, use a little silicone grease on the o-rings and hoses - makes everything go back together much easier.

    While you're in there, consider replacing the header plate that mounts on the radiator and the thermostat that goes in it, the thermostat/housing, water pump, coolant level sensor, and the temperature sensor that mounts in the lower radiator hose. And don't forget to buy new o-rings for the transmission fluid heat exchanger.

    While you've got the manifold off, replace the vacuum lines for the air injection system - they will be rotted and it's easier to do it now. Better do the intake air boots and the gaskets for the throttle valve and resonance flap assembly.

    Total cost for parts to do it right is right around $800 but it's well worth it for the peace of mind. If you don't have a copy of the BMW electronic shop manual, buy one off eBay. It's a fairly big job but pretty straightforward if you follow the shop manual. Contact me off-line if you'd like a copy of the parts spreadsheet I've developed for this work - I've done it three times in the last year.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackson42 View Post
    While you're in there, consider replacing the header plate that mounts on the radiator and the thermostat that goes in it
    A must: transmission thermostat mentioned here will break 100% when you go to take it out. That stupid plate is a 50/50 chance - I'd get it if you can.
    Do entire CCV system as well if you will be pulling the manifold.
    Last edited by Mless5; 05-29-2017 at 06:59 PM.

  4. #4
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    I just replaced the CCV system. Not looking forward to taking the intake off. That may have to wait for another day. This is the kit I'm looking at. I like BavAuto. They're local so shipping is overnight.

    https://www.bavauto.com/e46-cool-auto

    Ill check into that header piece. I guess there is a plastic tube that plugs into the bottom of the expansion tank. I'll add one of those. If I put off the things under the intake....what else am I missing?

    I have done just about everything possible on an e36 so I have skills. My 10 year old Bentley looks 30 years old.
    Last edited by flyfishvt; 05-30-2017 at 05:33 AM.

  5. #5
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    That's what I did on the wagon about 2 years ago, except I didn't replace the radiator. I figure at 15 years will be need, so I will do it and a couple of the under intake hoses then as the car is 12 years old with 110k miles, and doesn't see more than 10k a year at that.

    Did you play with the DISA yet? German Auto Solutions or G.A.S. has a very nice kit, and it replaces the stupid pin that likes to fall out and get eaten by the intake.
    Darin
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  6. #6
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    I've had the DISA out a couple times. It's in good shape. I dug out the orange gunk around the base and installed an oring. I've seen those rebuild kits on eBay. They replace the pin with a metal bolt. It looks like a great idea but I'm very leary of eBay gadgets.

  7. #7
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    GAS isn't a eBay seller that I know of. But yes they do use a bolt to keep the flap in place and for around 70 bucks, better piece of mind: http://www.germanautosolutions.com/b...repair_kit.php
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  8. #8
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    This is the version I was referring to. I've seen others as low as $25.00

    https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=14200977...2569006&chn=ps

  9. #9
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    Unless there is a brand name attached to it on ebay, I don't tend to buy internal components from there. Now don't get me wrong, I like ebay and will cruse thru there looking for deals on name brand stuff, and of course as the saying goes: "Buyer beware".
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  10. #10
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    The BavAuto kit doesn't include any of the smaller hoses, the bypass plate, thermostat, trans heat exchanger o-rings, coolant level sensor or the coolant pipes, plus you don't know the provenance of the parts, except for the radiator and those that have the Meyle name explicitly stated - name-brand or poor-quality knock-off? Meyle parts are OK in my experience. I've had mixed success with BavAuto. Pelican Parts is my #1 go-to because they offer a lot of options for their parts - one can buy BMW factory parts all the way down to the cheapest knock-offs; you get to choose your price point.

  11. #11
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    I like Pelican and ECS for most things but BavAuto is local so shipping is very fast and much cheaper. It's not hard to spend $200-300 just in shipping with any of those others. Even if they offer free on orders over $50 or $100 it seems like There's always something I forgot. BavAuto is good outfit and they price match if you ask. Economy shipping from them gets it to me overnight in most cases. I've dealt with all of them over the years....Groton, Autohauz and the rest.

    Im trying to get this all done in 2 steps. This round gets rid of as much of the plastic stuff as I can and a few other items. I see an item called Expansion Tank tstat. I'll probably add that. Thanks for the reminder. I almost forgot about the level sender.

  12. #12
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    I finally tackled this project yesterday. Ran into a few snags that were my fault but overall it went pretty smooth for the first time. You have to love those snap rings on the hoses. Besides the parts in that kit I added that snake shaped pipe at the bottom of the expansion tank and a new level sender. I have a huge stock of orings so they got swapped out. There weren't any issues with fitment on any of the parts. Everything slid together smoothly. I'm not thrilled with the Nissen radiator but it is what it is. Budgets are tight these days.

    The one piece I did not order but I do recommend is the plastic piece that snaps onto the bottom of the radiator. I was able to remove mine without breaking any of the tabs but I think I was just very lucky.

  13. #13
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    The peace of mind is worth the time and expense, isn't it? And when the job goes smoothly it just adds to the sense of satisfaction.

  14. #14
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    Well I guess it didn't go quite as smooth as I first thought. Once it got up to full pressure I found a leak around the radiator drain. Pulled everything apart a couple times. Luckily I saved the box the radiator came in. Underneath all the packaging was an instruction sheet and some extra parts. Turns out this radiator came configured for manual tranny. The drain plug assembly has to be removed and replaced with a different unit designed for auto trannies. You twist it to unlock it then pull it out. Everything is buttoned up and I don't see any leaks. I'm going to do a pressure test on it just to be sure.

    Once again this is a Nissen radiator. Not sure if they all come this way or not. Just an FYI if you're replacing your radiator do a thorough search of the box.
    Last edited by flyfishvt; 07-25-2017 at 07:40 AM.

  15. #15
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    In my experience ECS Tuning always take s a week more for delivery if you are on the west coast. Every effing time. I ordered a bearing from them last week that was supposed to ship the same day. It apparently hasn't after five days even left Ohio. That's not good service in most people's estimation. If I order things from Pelican I get it in three days.

  16. #16
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    I agree with Jackson42. The pipes under the intake manifold rot from the inside out, and was the source to a constant coolant "smell". My vacuum lines for the air injection system were also brittle. My resonance flap assembly was also defective causing some minor idle issues.

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