Wow this is kind of expensive. I think you can get one of the semi custom dual/tripple pass radiators from some one like FSR for cheaper than that and it will have better performance too...
I think I paid around $220-250 few years back for my dual pass that I have on my LS2.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Tim, no that's the standard Mishimoto replacement radiator. This is the X-line: https://www.mishimoto.com/bmw-e30-e3...tor-92-99.html You can find it for less than $500 elsewhere.
I don't see a way to easily adapt the Volvo fan to anything BMW has going on for shrouding. Maybe if you cut up and epoxied the BMW mechanical fan shroud to the Volvo shroud but I think it's easier to just trim the Volvo shroud and use some readily available hardware. A reproduction Volvo shroud is available on ebay and amazon. I can take some pics of how I mounted it next time I get some garage time. It's nothing you can't get at Home Depot.
The Wiring Specialties harness has a relay and fuse box built in. It has circuits for the A/C compressor, two fans, and I forget what else. You can connect the fan wires in the WS harness directly to a two fan system and have it power them with no other modifications. What I did was remove and bypass the relays so that the -12Vdc trigger coming from the GM ECU connects to the fan output wires so instead of sending high current +12Vdc to the fans, I have it sending low current -12Vdc to trigger the Volvo relay. What I found out today is that the way I have it operating is wrong. When the GM ECU has the first fan on, then triggers the second, the first fan stays on. The two speed Volvo fan system doesn't work that way. When high speed is turned on, low speed is turned off. They're not supposed to be triggered at the same time. So, I ordered an 80/88*C fan switch and connector to trigger the Volvo relay instead of the GM ECU. When I was driving around yesterday, after putting a proper connector on the jumper I made inside the WS relay box, the same thing was happening, temp creeping up with the A/C on in traffic. As soon as I turned the A/C off, the temp came back down. That's what prompted me to read about the Volvo fan wiring again.
Tipsy, I don't know that the drop-in Mishimoto replacement fan has proven to be inadequate. I haven't seen a back to back test and even if someone did that, there would most likely be other variables between the test car and your setup. I just wasn't taking any chances with ambient temps so high in my area.
BigL350: Copy on the X-Line...that does look more substantial and Amazon has them for $450. Looks like a quality piece. Are the coolant hoses in an acceptable location for the LS? A beefy radiator was a real life saver on a previous project.
Volvo fan: I was curious so pulled my OEM fan and shroud out along with the Volvo fan. I've not seen it detailed, but disassembled the Volvo fan/electric motor mounting...did the same for the BMW setup. The Volvo motor bolted right into the shroud and the fan mounted on the opposite side (left hand threads for the fan nut!). So believe the BMW OEM fan shroud will accommodate the Volvo electric motor and fan as BMW intended...obviously mounted on the front of the radiator. I'm unclear why a new mounting point is needed as JTR lists. I've not tried it either. I won't until the LS swap starts.
I will post some images tomorrow.
I'm planning on a Holley HP system...stand alone. The wiring for the fans will be different-still digesting you paragraph-appreciate the run down.
Begun engine prep - great fun job of ring end gapping.
Old rings were .028 and .032 for cylinder #1...note this was after the block had been honed to provide a new ring bedding finish only. Very large IMO...it did have 119,000 miles on it.
New Speed Pro rings (not file to fit) came in at .025 top and .029. This is not what I had hoped. My reading showed most new rings come in on the low side and folks open them up for nitrous/turbo, etc.
I was targeting the standard low end street spec of .004 per inch...equals .015 for top ring and .017 second ring. Likely we will be purchasing another set of 'file to fit' rings, unfortunately. Believe only Hastings offers the option...
This will be a street engine and tight spec/low oil burning is preferred!
That will delay us for a couple of weeks...glad I took advantage of Bimmerworld discount...$100 off the Bilstein/Eibach spring combo. The blown front shocks are irritating!
Everything is in the same place as stock on the x-line. I had no issues fitting hoses or anything else.
I didn't get that you were mounting the Volvo fan as a puller. I didn't consider that option. Some pics would be great.
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Tipsy's got it.
I took some just the same. Original BMW fan and motor:
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Y8KKZo]
Volvo fan installed in the original BMW shroud:
17 09 04 M3 with Volvo Fan
Side by side comparison:
17 09 04 M3 Original and Volvo Fan Comparison
Maybe my terminology is not correct, but I consider the E36 Auxiliary fan to be a pusher (push air thru the rad) and the E36 primary fan (mechanical) a puller. I understood a Volvo fan/electric motor installed in the BMW shroud works for most folks when swapping to a V-8.
Do you have a Volvo fan/shroud installed on the engine side of the radiator?
Thanks.
The Volvo fan is installed as a puller in a Volvo and the write up I read for doing the Volvo fan swap in an E36 used the Volvo shroud and mounted the fan as a puller.
I don't really like pusher fans because they inherently block airflow over the radiator but BMW thought it was ok so what do I know.
I'm interested to hear how it works with the Volvo fan as a pusher.
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I don't think the pusher is ideal, but consider the packaging...probably the best option.
With the impending hurricane and work cancelled...took advantage of the downtime and had my helper and I installed Eibach springs and Bilstein shocks/struts. Labor Day sale resulted in the package deal from Bimmerworld ($783 delivered).
[url=https://flic.kr/p/XkqB48]17 09 09 M3 New Suspension
The Old Stuff:
[url=https://flic.kr/p/XkqA4n]17 09 09 M3 Old Strut
[url=https://flic.kr/p/YziX6r]17 09 09 M3 Old Shock
Installer (very expensive!):
[url=https://flic.kr/p/YjbteA]17 09 09 Helper At Work 2
Installed:
[url=https://flic.kr/p/YziXHD]17 09 09 M3 New Shock Installed
Finished product...I'm quite satisfied the outcome:
[url=https://flic.kr/p/XkqC4p]17 09 09 M3 Lowered Side
Surprised at the ease of the replacement and even more so that the front struts are not camber adjustable! Made for an easy install...we will get an alignment once we replace few more parts (front control arms, tie rods, etc). Quick trip around the block brought back the M3 spirit...Chinese struts tends to kill it.
Now hopefully we don't lose the car in the Irma fun.
Last edited by Tim Mc; 09-09-2017 at 09:47 PM.
Looking good. Hope you fare well in the hurricane.
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BigL350: Thanks. No issues on the hurricane...it went inland from our position. Time to go for a drive!
Hello Everyone.
I hope you are all having an awesome day. I noticed our products mentioned throughout this thread and just wanted to extend an offer for additional support. If you have any questions regarding fitment, sizing, or anything else related to our products we are here to help! Our customer service team is highly knowledgeable and would be more then happy to assist you in any way they can. You can give them a call at 302.762.4501. or send an email to support@mishimoto.com
Thanks
-Jake
Mishimoto
Mishimoto Automotive
Mishimoto: Thanks for the posting. Certainly will take a look at your products...a big radiator was one of the best upgrades to my last car.
As a slight tangent to the BMW...did a track day at Daytona (24 Hours Layout). Little 24 psi Subaru hits thermal overload after 3-4 laps with the top mounted intercooler just insufficient for long WOT...power just drops.
I'm hoping the M3 with LS will be more consistent on the track. Possibly exceed the 150 mph the Subaru touches with 412 WHP (cool temps though!).
I have been installing new weather stripping and located an AC bracket for the LS FEAD system. Also 3.91 gears showed up.
Images will follow...
Tipsy: No worries! My passenger seat didn't go empty-neighbor was excited at the chance. He'd only been down a drag strip a couple of times and 110 mph!
I ran intermediate so skills vary significantly. The Camaro was not doing what he should have, but we got past eventually.
Nearly decided on the mounts/headers...
Some work finally done today...
New front control arms and lollipop bushings:
Removal:
17 10 27 M3 No Control Arm
Comparison:
17 10 28 M3 Control Arms 2
Close:
17 10 28 M3 Old Control Arm Close
Also made a decision on engine/transmission mounts as well as a set of 1 7/8 headers.
Shot of the 'spice it up' 3.91 gears:
17 10 28 M3 391 Gears
And the sought after AC bracket for the LS1 Camaro FEAD-not bad for $40 off of CL:
17 10 28 M3 AC Bracket
Many more smaller challenges ahead...target date to tear apart is 1 Dec...we will see if it happens!
Big news: engine/trans mounts arrived! Kovach Super Mounts in all their glory:
17 11 04 M3 Swap Mounts Good
Nice powdercoating, hardware, and obvious robust design. Headers are inwork. I elected a size on the larger end for future growth - 1 7/8 head tube. Looking forward to that box arrival.
Also did some maintenance on the M3...
Passenger window failed early on in ownership. Finally got around to taking a look see. New white slider clips seemed to solve the issue. The regulator had been replaced before...as evidence of scratches, nut/bolt hardware, missing clips, and incorrectly installed door pieces. At least the door no longer rattles-very welcome!
Also wondered about the cabin filter-seems challenging to access, but at least ours had been serviced recently:
17 11 04 M3 Cabin Filter Footwell (2)
and
17 11 04 M3 Cabin Filter Footwell (1)
Ok...maybe it had been couple years or a decade. Disgusting. Now we know why the interior had some smells to it. The flow from the vents increased 3 fold as well. I still have no heat. I do wonder if the heater core is plugged with dirt...hopefully the moisture I noticed from the core housing is not antifreeze. A core replacement on this car is not a pleasurable job, I understand.
Last edited by Tim Mc; 11-04-2017 at 09:48 PM.
Glad you got the mounts squared away. That filter is disgusting but fixing the little things is gratifying.
Tipsy
I replaced the heater core during the swap and it wasn't fun. There was a faint smell of antifreeze at times that I think was coolant seeping past the o-rings. It was worth the trouble replacing it.
Those mounts look great, BTW.
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Little successes especially the passenger window (read my co-pilots) put a smile on his face. He was intrigued with the complexity of raising a window. Seems a bit Rube Goldbergish...but it works.
I smell no anti freeze, but we do have to add coolant, I blame the spot of coolant from the radiator drain plug for that...I hope anyway. I don't care for that kind of work right now.
Mounts...the big question is AC. I may end up notching the frame rail for AC...not sure how feasible that is. Nonetheless, I think better than moving the steering column/booster. But I'm no expert. Besides the temps in FL are finally window down weather for next 4 months.
Did get some time on the engine. Tedious job of setting the piston ring gaps. 8 of 16 complete. Chose .015 top ring and .019 2nd ring. Hope for an oil tight engine with long life. It isn't considered a high HP build so on the tight side. My helper did most of the work.
17 11 05 M3 Ring Gap Grinding
and
17 11 05 M3 Ring Gapping
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