Bimerok: I hadn't looked at your thread in a while...wealth of info there. Plastic would be so much more manageable. Maybe on the next iteration.
Doktor: Yup...agreed. We are anxious to see the existing improvements...
Received the correct Dakota Digital converter box so it appears 4 wires and we will have an operable OEM in dash tachometer! Shifting by the speeds is not ideal...especially when you forget which MPH is the shift point...brapp, brapp, brapp!
12 Nov is the date with the widowmaker...Mustang Dyno appt. Will it go or will it blow! Does it run better with 28 degrees of timing or 29? Will it break 300 WHP?
But tomorrow this specimen will be used for Boy Scout instruction on automotive maintenance. Maybe we will get a free oil change out of it!
Appreciate the inputs folks...
These projects are great fun!
Well one trip to the drags resulted in a whine and a bit of driveline vibration. So out came the diff again...back to the rebuilder for a look see. Amazing I had it out in less than an hour. Very easy to work on...
Still an M model:
Just in case, I sourced another 3.91 diff (open) for $90...I like it!:
Will also attempt to have the exhaust coated to preserve the system...some heat management as well:
Additionally, nearly complete on the cold air fence...my Dremel was smoking!
Don't recall his name - CL folks aren't very friendly, but it was in Clearwater. It appeared he broke BMW's in his backyard.
Diff is nearly complete...the pinion was tight on the ring gear hence the noise. He swapped the gears nonetheless with fresh bearings. Hopefully back by Thursday.
Exhaust coating is not inexpensive - but it will preserve the finish and it looks clean! Back by Saturday morning.
In progress shots of the cold air fence:
Temp install:
He would be the one...was a bit grumpy with meeting us at 0830 on a Saturday...
So thought everything was coming together this weekend in preparation for the dyno visit next week...but not so much.
We had the diff rebuilt with different 3.91 gears with another set of bearings due to the whine experienced post drag visit.
We had provided another complete 3.91 diff (open) to donate the gears...but the rebuilder swapped the axle stubs as well. Well we have an M3 diff and the axle stubs are larger than what this donate diff had (328?). So a shot of the diff before we tried to install it and the same image after we yanked it back out.
During the diff swap, detected a bent front diff bolt! Guess those hard Firestones have some grip (no)...or this BMW drivetrain is pretty weak. May have to research the larger diff bolt option...
We did buy a new condenser as we assemble parts for the AC (don't need it anymore in FL):
The cold air fence is complete save for some rubber trim...
At the assistant's request we fired the engine open headered...yup sounds just like the ones at the drag strip! He had a big smile on his face...
since we couldn't install the newly heat coated exhaust. Looks like new and should disappear under the car (desired):
Close up:
That is what $330 gets you...hopefully preserved for many years to come...certainly in FL weather.
Yep. When I installed the "M" LSD, I had to remove the M output flanges and swap-in my my non-M flanges, since I have non-M axles.
The previous owner of my LSD had drilled the front bolt from an M12. Picture in my thread.
The exhaust looks very nice. At you going to run cats? I didn't at first and than added them to take a little "bite" out of the exhaust tone. One of the best things about an E36 LS swap is when there are car guys around and you pull up and they go "That's not an in-line six".
Tipsy: Affirm...your thread is where I learned of the larger bolt/diff weakness. Thanks!
C10: No cats...exhaust is complete. It is very quiet...just a growl..even at WOT. Agreed...I've gotten a few looks...
I spent 2 hours struggling with the aftermarket condenser (Nissen)...pulled it back out and threw in the towel. The screw connections just don't line up and attempting to keep the aluminum radiator from getting dinged...counted my blessings with the minimal damage. Ack!
Update: Cold air fence complete. Turned out better than expected - the rubber trimming isn't perfect so may revisit, but believe it will do the job...cutting 100+ degrees from the IAT:
The dyno appt won't happen tomorrow. Unfortunate, but bit out of our control. Didn't get time to connect the tach...so possibly on our day off tomorrow.
Last edited by Tim Mc; 11-11-2018 at 10:47 PM.
Here's my post on upgrading the diff bolt, only costs a few bucks for the bolt and it's easy to do with everything out of the car. I also did a quick video showing everything.
Tipsy: the condenser 'tabs' where they mount to the electric fan support are off and lining everything up with the front whisker panel installed is lesson in futility.
Laminar: another great option. Luckily the diff is easy enough to pull again if we get a chance. Luckily it is back up and running as it was.
Fresh coated exhaust...looks much better than the rust beads. Unlikely any real improvement...
A quick test drive in traffic resulted in easy 50 degree drop when sitting at a stoplight...at cruise it is 20-30 degrees cooler (90 on a 85 degree day). Content with the cold air fence update.
Great thread! I have been lurking in the shadows appreciating this one.
TEC-3R, T4 GT40, WISECO, EAGLE, SUPERTECH, O-RING'D "FRANKENSTEIN" STROKER.
Just stumbled on your thread, great read! I'm partial to Estoril & LS as well!
Looking forward to seeing more.
IG @Bsaintmedia | Cammed LS6 Swapped E36 M3 "The GMW M3"
Appreciate the comments! The blue was a draw as I drove past it daily for like nearly a year! It does shine up nicely...
Had a scare yesterday...car vibration, growling, and a tap that was getting louder by the mile! Swore we lost a rod bearing...then a trans bearing the way it groveled upon acceleration. The HP ECU noted no obvious abnormalities (oil pressure!).
So I fired it up this morning and the tap was very loud! I popped the hood and...it was an exhaust leak on #2 cylinder...missing exhaust header bolt as well! I located a spare and proceeded to see if the gasket was still intake...the remaining bolts were quite loose - bad on us for not nut/bolting the car occasionally!
Corrected that and fired it up...no more tap...phew...but how is the grovel...pulled out and warmed it up gingerly...no more noise. Hmm...ok give it some go...no more noise. Stumped how a leaking header could sound like internal failure of the trans...crazy.
Anyway, I gave it a good work out...losing some rubber in the process (smiles were gained though!) and we are back in business.
Had my assistant practice changing a tire...because of this:
What would cause this wear line? All new suspension...camber is -3 degrees...likely the toe is out. We ordered up a couple front tires and will get it set for an alignment nonetheless. Very odd wear pattern...only the right front! It drives straight too!
An overview shot...we are quite happy how it looks sitting in the bay - really looks like it was meant to be:
Super clean install for sure - well done, and it was well worth the time and effort you put into making it look factory.
Laminar: appreciate the comments. Ours was so much duplication of what others had already done - forum is so incredibly helpful. Thanks!
We have a chassis dyno scheduled for today. It is not our normal location...so this is a Dynojet Inertial setup. Assistant guess was 300 WHP...I'd like to see 320 WHP...then again, I've never used a purely inertial...which should read a bit higher.
Will it go or will it blow!
Last edited by Tim Mc; 11-21-2018 at 06:43 AM.
Busy day today...mounted new front tires, 4 wheel alignment and then to The Heartbreakers:
Verdict is in! Little 5.3 with a cam pumped out 340 WHP/338 WTQ SAE corrected on a Dynojet! Operator's calcs 398 HP at the flywheel which is right in line with the Hot Rod build of this engine, making 410 crank horsepower. The single 3 inch likely gives up some power.
The Holley HP EFI ran spot on directing the fuel curve as desired. We tried 26, 28, and 30 on ignition timing...30 was the winner.
To say we are satisfied with the performance is an understatement. With the previous discrepancies repaired - a 12 second run is likely, but unfortunately, won't happen for a spell.
Awesome!
And the exciting video...even twin mufflers - sounds great!
https://youtu.be/IyeaHG-n6DQ
My assistant was pretty happy he didn't forget to torque that rod bolt, or the main fastener, or...always a relief to see the project spin to 6500 rpm redline!
Last edited by Tim Mc; 11-21-2018 at 08:31 PM.
Great numbers!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Thanks folks.
Considering the cam is near dead smooth idle at 675 rpm...my inclination is two more steps on the cam and a set of port OEM heads - likely a healthy increase in power. Then again, this is plenty for a new driver's starter car! An stock S52 is just over 200 WHP...so a new car with the increase.
Just for reference, we were at the dyno shop with 2 other 2018 Camaro SS's with 455 HP LT1s. They both put down 400 WHP/WTQ. Chassis dyno shops are a favorite of mine...
Nice work!
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