1997 M3 4 Door with LS/T56

[Tim Mc]

Curious to see how the longer pushrods affect your noise. Did you measure with a length checker when assembling the engine?

No we did not measure the pushrod length requirement. Mild cam and OEM rockers, etc...figured we would be in the ball park. We just went with the closest to OEM sizing which was 7.4 slightly longer stock. Appears we need the next longer size - possibly. The LS7 lifters may require more as well.

[Tim Mc]

Do you have any extra throw available in the master and slave? Is the connection between the master and pedal adjustable?

Don't believe so...OEM parts, just bolt in and go. Unsure if a new hole could be drilled in the pedal... Nonetheless, it is not terrible - high rpm shifting is a non-issue so hope there is sufficient throw. Thanks for the idea - we'll take a look next time we are in there .

[Tim Mc]

Intersting to see that you used the OE splined bolts in the JTR flange. Those had to be pressed in, no?

I picked up some Grade 10.9 M10-1.5 x 25mm flange bolts and flange nuts. It didn't cross my mind to use OE style bolts/studs.

I did the same with nylock nuts, but upon installation, the shanks were a bit loose in the flanges. Thinking it might be a weak point (unlike u-joints and straps)...I tried the originals...I recall getting them in the hole sufficiently to snag some threads with the nut and pulled them in place...nice interference fit. Who knows, maybe I didn't select the size from the the local hardware store...

[TipsyMcStagger]

I also used oe bolts. They are pretty easy to remove from original drive shaft.

Which is looooong gone

I did the same with nylock nuts, but upon installation, the shanks were a bit loose in the flanges. Thinking it might be a weak point (unlike u-joints and straps)...I tried the originals...I recall getting them in the hole sufficiently to snag some threads with the nut and pulled them in place...nice interference fit. Who knows, maybe I didn't select the size from the the local hardware store...

Okay, if they don't have to be pressed in, I'll pick up the OE bolts at the dealer. Thanks!


Edit: For the sake of future searchers;

Knurled bolt - M10X25 26111206718

[Tim Mc]

Did some maintenance today...push rods (.050 longer - lifter tick), new fuel regulator/filter (low 38 psi)...didn't get to the axle fluid (decel whine...), and the magic rev counter convertor (no tach!):



Push rods were super easy!



Delta from old vs new:



The lowered M3 is easy to access...passenger side:



Rocker off:



Big news is the driverside cover can be removed! I expected to loosen the brake booster to gain access...not necessary! Another nod toward Chuck's Super Tubes and Mounts:



The other big news...the lifter tick is still present, but less. Disassembly showed no ill issues...no valve/rocker tip wear, etc. Hmm.

New filter/regulator...hoped it would be the golden beebee...nope:



Did some WOT runs and the fuel issue is real. Lean pops, etc...so will have to look at the pump...we did use substandard wiring on the Aeromotive pump...hmm:

[bimerok]

If your lifters have 60+K miles on them, you most likely will have a tick.

Your wiring to the pump most likely will not do anything if you are getting correct pressure at idle. Unlike some Fords, LS ECU uses constant voltage/pump speed and controls pressure with an FPR instead of by throtteling the pump. Hard to believe that all 3 FPRs are giving you the same problem. Maybe time to check with a manual FPR?

[Tim Mc]

Unfortunately, the lifters are new GM LS7 models...

Fuel pump is constant voltage...triggered by the Holley. I expect 58 psi at idle and we are getting 38 psi. Apparently this continues at higher engine speeds as the Holley self fuel tuning is demanding unattainable fuel unit numbers. Maybe we sucked up some blockage. Will plan to pull the pump for inspection. At least we know the car will get quicker!

Thanks!

[RulyLSX]

I like how your new filter has the IN/RTN sticker on it, would of saved me a lot of time troubleshooting my reserved hoses haha

[Tim Mc]

Ruly: The filter is labeled, but I've had to research and idiot check the OEM lines coming from the car! I supposed labeling those would be smart too. The diameters are slightly different if I recall.

More slight, but important progress - shift lever offset.

Our T56 Magnum places the shifter lever just over an inch to the front too much. Too much for the OEM shift boot - stretches and pulls on the console when in the forward gears...not by much, but enough.

So likely not the least expensive way, but one that minimizes local shop construction...we bought the least expensive shift lever...to cut the end off (with a dremel):



And welded it to the front of the actual lever...thereby placing the actual lever to the rear...nearly perfectly centered in the OEM console:



The OEM shift boot completes the look. Don't have a shot of that as of yet.

A boring, but an important point:



1200 miles and not a drop of fluid from this new LS engine swap...compared to the original 220,000 mile S52/auto...4 different fluid leaks...quite a relief!

[RulyLSX]

Very cool solution to move the shifter back, I really need to get a welder... and learn how to weld so i can do cool stuff like this !!! I ran into the same issue and used this thing.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustan...-555-7070.html

[Tim Mc]

Ruly: your solution is cooler...and quite a bit cheaper! Either way, hidden from view and likely quickly forgotten.

A shot of the original 6/automatic marking its territory:



So glad to be rid of that...was going thru a lot of kitty litter...

[Tim Mc]

Got a few moments last weekend to explore the low fuel pressure situation. Originally, fuel pressure was 78 psi at idle...then a new regulator/filter resulted in 48 psi...finally a third filter/regulator...38 psi where is has been consistent.

Was:



Accessed the pump and did a quick review...



Attention to detail was not high that day, rubber hose connection to the fuel pump basket wasn't clamped onto the barb sufficiently...pressure was leaking within the tank...a easy readjustment and tighten...back to 78 psi. Admittedly this is not the optimum 58 that the LS is designed for, but a few quick WOT runs had the car now pulling strongly into the 6500 rpm limiter! Holley HP correcting/building the fuel map at the top end. Believe it will return a few more mph than 109 at the drags.

Now:



Do like the easy fixes.

[RulyLSX]

Tim, what does your pressure show when you go WOT? Mine also sits at 70ish PSI, on WOT it drops down to the 58 range and stays there. My tuner said that was fine, I think you will be ok

[bimerok]

Nice that you found the problem and it was easy fix. On thing you might want to consider is to use proper FI hose clamps.

[Tim Mc]

RulyLSX: Unsure of what the PSI does during operation. I don't have a transducer for it so no telling. I may borrow one...or I will just make note during the dyno session which is still in the cards once we work out some more bugs.

bimerok: I agree...and I even have some extra, but was a bit excited to possibly figure the problem out. I do think those clamps came in the kit...but not ideal. It was more of not placing the clamp over the barb...missed it a portion.

[Tim Mc]

Nearly 1700 miles covered...just got our worst tank mileage...18.6. Bringing my average down from just shy of 20 mpg. For 10,000 miles prior with the auto/6 cylinder...averaged 21.3. Same type of miles.

The 'poor' mileage is attributed to WOT = smiles! Realizing how quiet the car is, hitting 2 and 3 gears is just too much fun and doesn't seem to catch the eye of the constables.... :-)

[TipsyMcStagger]

N...Realizing how quiet the car is, hitting 2 and 3 gears is just too much fun and doesn't seem to catch the eye of the constables.... :-)

So, too quite? Chris is begging me not to install two mufflers. It would be hard to try to duplicate what he's running because he fabricated his own muffler but he's running two X-Pipes, resonators and his fabricated muffler.

He's telling me to run two x-pipes and a muffler (and maybe resonators?) and it won't be "too loud."

[Tim Mc]

I go back and forth a bit. I do wonder how much HP we are giving up with the two muffler/single 3 inch. But it is a BMW and as mentioned - WOT without grabbing everyone's attention is unique...I'm used to my other car with twin 3 inch/Flowmasters.

I recommend you come for a visit and hear for yourself. I wish they offered the same muffler type in 3.5 or even 4... Then again we have other things to address before re-doing the pipes. Not sure of the use of dual x pipes...

8 Nov is another target for drag visit. Hopefully the car will be closer to optimum by then - mark your calendar!

[Tim Mc]

Well, we decided the M3 wasn't low enough...so down it went:



That is about right...

(Un)fortunately, it was only temporary as we used the car as a dump truck with ~250 pounds of rock as we update our landscaping.



The 5.3 pulled with authority with 4 x PAX to Lowes and back via ice cream shop. Temps are finally dropping in FL - the best time of the year!

[RulyLSX]

LOL!!! got me

[Tim Mc]

Finally rid the car of the **original** windscreen! Amazing it had not been replaced before...it had yellowed, had wiper tracks, and now a chip/spiderweb.



In-work:



Complete!



Also worked on the cold air 'fence.' Added a K+N filter and an Air Raid u build it tube:



Started to transfer the cardboard template to metal...pretty tough metal I procured! A local shop was gracious enough to not only cut and bend a small job for our project - provided at no cost!



Dremel trimming might take nearly an hour...trim it with some wx stripping/sliced fuel line...we will be in business and hope for temps less than the 120-170 degrees we are currently seeing.

[bimerok]

Although any heatshield is better than no heatshield, but I think you chose wrong material for it. Metal is exellent heat conductor. A much better choice would be ABS plastic. Not only it is much better at keeping the heat away, but it is also a lot easier to work with.

[Tim Mc]

Bimerok: good point. Plastic would save us possibly hours on the trim portion. Unsure where to get plastic in a 90 degree bend. Admittedly, we patterned this one after typical aftermarket style (metal fence). Wonder if simple vehicle movement changes the dynamic that inhaled air generally doesn't have sufficient time to be warmed from the fence as well as air heated by the radiator doesn't feed into the filter freely. I think the K+N filter alone will be an improvement over the CX Racing model. We will monitor the intake temps and see if there is any improvement - 170 degrees, wow!

Thanks!

[bimerok]

Oh you will see improvement for sure in your intake temps...

As for ABS plastic, all you would need is a flat sheet (eBay or any other source of choice) and you form it to whatever you need using a heat gun.

Here is the one I made a while ago. I think it starts here and some more views on next page: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post22371389

[doktor b]

while abs may absorb less heat than metal, the metal shield can still be improved upon. Ceramic coating would be fantastically affordable for a piece that small, as would an adhesive-backed thermal barrier. (gold foil)
coupled with ducting of the inbound fresh air, and thorough sealing from the [hot] engine compartment, i'm certain you'll find quite an improvement.

...until you slide off the slippery slope of weight reduction and maximizing every tenth of a degree of IAT. then, it's a CF shield cordoning off a CF intake and unfiltered bellmouth. #fullrace