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Thread: 1997 M3 4 Door with LS/T56

  1. #326
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    364
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    Quote Originally Posted by nsogiba View Post
    Curious to see how the longer pushrods affect your noise. Did you measure with a length checker when assembling the engine?
    No we did not measure the pushrod length requirement. Mild cam and OEM rockers, etc...figured we would be in the ball park. We just went with the closest to OEM sizing which was 7.4 slightly longer stock. Appears we need the next longer size - possibly. The LS7 lifters may require more as well.

  2. #327
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    364
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    Quote Originally Posted by Laminar View Post
    Do you have any extra throw available in the master and slave? Is the connection between the master and pedal adjustable?
    Don't believe so...OEM parts, just bolt in and go. Unsure if a new hole could be drilled in the pedal... Nonetheless, it is not terrible - high rpm shifting is a non-issue so hope there is sufficient throw. Thanks for the idea - we'll take a look next time we are in there .

  3. #328
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    364
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    Intersting to see that you used the OE splined bolts in the JTR flange. Those had to be pressed in, no?

    I picked up some Grade 10.9 M10-1.5 x 25mm flange bolts and flange nuts. It didn't cross my mind to use OE style bolts/studs.
    I did the same with nylock nuts, but upon installation, the shanks were a bit loose in the flanges. Thinking it might be a weak point (unlike u-joints and straps)...I tried the originals...I recall getting them in the hole sufficiently to snag some threads with the nut and pulled them in place...nice interference fit. Who knows, maybe I didn't select the size from the the local hardware store...

  4. #329
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    FL Gulf Coast
    Posts
    1,106
    My Cars
    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    I also used oe bolts. They are pretty easy to remove from original drive shaft.
    Which is looooong gone

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    I did the same with nylock nuts, but upon installation, the shanks were a bit loose in the flanges. Thinking it might be a weak point (unlike u-joints and straps)...I tried the originals...I recall getting them in the hole sufficiently to snag some threads with the nut and pulled them in place...nice interference fit. Who knows, maybe I didn't select the size from the the local hardware store...
    Okay, if they don't have to be pressed in, I'll pick up the OE bolts at the dealer. Thanks!


    Edit: For the sake of future searchers;

    Knurled bolt - M10X25 26111206718
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 10-04-2018 at 08:47 PM.

  5. #330
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    364
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    Did some maintenance today...push rods (.050 longer - lifter tick), new fuel regulator/filter (low 38 psi)...didn't get to the axle fluid (decel whine...), and the magic rev counter convertor (no tach!):



    Push rods were super easy!



    Delta from old vs new:



    The lowered M3 is easy to access...passenger side:



    Rocker off:



    Big news is the driverside cover can be removed! I expected to loosen the brake booster to gain access...not necessary! Another nod toward Chuck's Super Tubes and Mounts:



    The other big news...the lifter tick is still present, but less. Disassembly showed no ill issues...no valve/rocker tip wear, etc. Hmm.

    New filter/regulator...hoped it would be the golden beebee...nope:



    Did some WOT runs and the fuel issue is real. Lean pops, etc...so will have to look at the pump...we did use substandard wiring on the Aeromotive pump...hmm:
    Last edited by Tim Mc; 10-06-2018 at 08:41 PM.

  6. #331
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,176
    My Cars
    96 328is 6.0L
    If your lifters have 60+K miles on them, you most likely will have a tick.

    Your wiring to the pump most likely will not do anything if you are getting correct pressure at idle. Unlike some Fords, LS ECU uses constant voltage/pump speed and controls pressure with an FPR instead of by throtteling the pump. Hard to believe that all 3 FPRs are giving you the same problem. Maybe time to check with a manual FPR?
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  7. #332
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    364
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    Unfortunately, the lifters are new GM LS7 models...

    Fuel pump is constant voltage...triggered by the Holley. I expect 58 psi at idle and we are getting 38 psi. Apparently this continues at higher engine speeds as the Holley self fuel tuning is demanding unattainable fuel unit numbers. Maybe we sucked up some blockage. Will plan to pull the pump for inspection. At least we know the car will get quicker!

    Thanks!

  8. #333
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    185
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    I like how your new filter has the IN/RTN sticker on it, would of saved me a lot of time troubleshooting my reserved hoses haha

  9. #334
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    364
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    Ruly: The filter is labeled, but I've had to research and idiot check the OEM lines coming from the car! I supposed labeling those would be smart too. The diameters are slightly different if I recall.

    More slight, but important progress - shift lever offset.

    Our T56 Magnum places the shifter lever just over an inch to the front too much. Too much for the OEM shift boot - stretches and pulls on the console when in the forward gears...not by much, but enough.

    So likely not the least expensive way, but one that minimizes local shop construction...we bought the least expensive shift lever...to cut the end off (with a dremel):



    And welded it to the front of the actual lever...thereby placing the actual lever to the rear...nearly perfectly centered in the OEM console:



    The OEM shift boot completes the look. Don't have a shot of that as of yet.

    A boring, but an important point:



    1200 miles and not a drop of fluid from this new LS engine swap...compared to the original 220,000 mile S52/auto...4 different fluid leaks...quite a relief!

  10. #335
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    185
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Very cool solution to move the shifter back, I really need to get a welder... and learn how to weld so i can do cool stuff like this !!! I ran into the same issue and used this thing.

    https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustan...-555-7070.html

  11. #336
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    364
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    Ruly: your solution is cooler...and quite a bit cheaper! Either way, hidden from view and likely quickly forgotten.

    A shot of the original 6/automatic marking its territory:



    So glad to be rid of that...was going thru a lot of kitty litter...
    Last edited by Tim Mc; 10-10-2018 at 07:50 PM.

  12. #337
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    364
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    Got a few moments last weekend to explore the low fuel pressure situation. Originally, fuel pressure was 78 psi at idle...then a new regulator/filter resulted in 48 psi...finally a third filter/regulator...38 psi where is has been consistent.

    Was:



    Accessed the pump and did a quick review...



    Attention to detail was not high that day, rubber hose connection to the fuel pump basket wasn't clamped onto the barb sufficiently...pressure was leaking within the tank...a easy readjustment and tighten...back to 78 psi. Admittedly this is not the optimum 58 that the LS is designed for, but a few quick WOT runs had the car now pulling strongly into the 6500 rpm limiter! Holley HP correcting/building the fuel map at the top end. Believe it will return a few more mph than 109 at the drags.

    Now:



    Do like the easy fixes.
    Last edited by Tim Mc; 10-17-2018 at 08:49 PM.

  13. #338
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    185
    My Cars
    1998 328I
    Tim, what does your pressure show when you go WOT? Mine also sits at 70ish PSI, on WOT it drops down to the 58 range and stays there. My tuner said that was fine, I think you will be ok

  14. #339
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    3,176
    My Cars
    96 328is 6.0L
    Nice that you found the problem and it was easy fix. On thing you might want to consider is to use proper FI hose clamps.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  15. #340
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    364
    My Cars
    2008 M5
    RulyLSX: Unsure of what the PSI does during operation. I don't have a transducer for it so no telling. I may borrow one...or I will just make note during the dyno session which is still in the cards once we work out some more bugs.

    bimerok: I agree...and I even have some extra, but was a bit excited to possibly figure the problem out. I do think those clamps came in the kit...but not ideal. It was more of not placing the clamp over the barb...missed it a portion.

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