E32 shifter - manual

[jeanro]

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Hi all,
Once again, I tend to your patience and knowledge to help me fix another problem that my 88 735i 5 speed has : It looks like the PO has done some modifications to the shifter . I do have the shifter boot, but the top part of the shifter is wobbling and not stable : it pops right out with very little effort. I am trying to fix this situation, but I need your advice in regards to the part numbers. It would be possible to insert a new shifter directly into the short piece that is visible in the last picture and have a "short shifter"? If not, what parts do I need to rebuilt it from what you see existing in that 2nd and 5th pics.? I do intend to buy a new wood shifter.
Thank you

[TheStigg]

Scroll down to the middle of this page:

http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_41.htm

It shows which common parts to replace. In my opinion, the better factory short shifters are either the Z3 1.9 or the e36 Euro M3.

[jeanro]

SAM_0485.jpgThank you TheStigg for your help. I was thinking that I might be able to find the part that is missing from the bottom part of my shifter such way I can reuse the one I have: it's just that I don't have a lift to put the car up in the air and replace the entire shifter lever. I looked closely at the pictures in the link you provided, and it seems to me that there is some black bushing at the end of the aluminum part that keeps what you see in my pic #3 firmly in place. If you look at the picture in this reply, you'll notice that there is just a round hole at the bottom of the upper half of my shifter lever. Is there a bushing of some sort? Thank you again for your info.

[TheStigg]

The lower stub is vulcanized or cast in place with the rubber in the upper cup when made. It provides damping so vibrations from the trans don't resonate up to the shift knob. They don't ordinarily separate. You might be able to re-attach it with some JB Weld. If it doesn't hold, then you'll need to get another shift lever. The shift knob has a roll pin that has a slight interference fit into a notch at the tip of the shift lever. Ordinarily the shift knob can be removed by sharply pulling up on the knob. Sometimes they don't pull off easily. It looks like yours might have separated due to someone twisting to remove the knob, or the rubber has deteriorated with age/heat and lost its bond.

EDIT: After taking another look at your shifter, it is somewhat of a kluge. Someone welded the stem onto the cup that has the molded rubber. Heat from that might have burned out the rubber, in which case, you would have to dig out the remaining rubber. You could fill the cup with epoxy or casting urethane and fashion some sort of dam to keep it from coming out until it sets. Personally I can't say it's worth the trouble and would just get another shift lever.

[jeanro]

[QUOTE=TheStigg;29724494]The lower stub is vulcanized or cast in place with the rubber in the upper cup when made. It provides damping so vibrations from the trans don't resonate up to the shift knob. They don't ordinarily separate. You might be able to re-attach it with some JB Weld. If it doesn't hold, then you'll need to get another shift lever. The shift knob has a roll pin that has a slight interference fit into a notch at the tip of the shift lever. Ordinarily the shift knob can be removed by sharply pulling up on the knob. Sometimes they don't pull off easily. It looks like yours might have separated due to someone twisting to remove the knob, or the rubber has deteriorated with age/heat and lost its bond.

You are perfectly right TheStigg: there is nothing inside the cup other than a piece of plastic at the very top with grooves that makes it sit somewhat snug against the lower part. I was thinking as well to fill the cup with some epoxy, and make a stopper to keep it inside up until it hardens.
Thanks for the help!!