O.k I Cant take it anymore and I am going to purchase my Shocks and Struts Front and rear.
This is what I have
H&R (Sport Springs) 29750 in the front (This model is for self leveling)
Stock Springs in the rear.
If I go with the B4's The springs that I have in the front and rear (stock) are for self leveling shocks and struts.
Do I have to go with a different spring as well or can I keep my current set up.
I also have the H&R springs for the rear but they were never installed by the PO.
Right now, my car has a stance of being lower in the front than the rear.
What are your thoughts
If you keep the H&Rs, the car will be slammed to the max with non SLS springs, and the stock rears will also bring the car down.
You can find a set off a junkyard car if you want the stock height.
I want to make sure I have this straight before I pull the trigger.
The fronts have the H&Rs on them and the front struts are shot...so replacing them with the B4's should be a great improvement.
The Rears has the stock springs...If I kept the stock springs, and put the b4's on..it will still lower the car?
I dont think I want the rear any lower, especially on these F'ed up Michigan roads
O.K I am not trying to be a pain in the arse, I just want to make sure I have this correct.
I can order the Stock Struts for $1200 and keep everything original and not have to do any re routing
OR
I can go with Billies and that would mean that I have to purchase coils for them as well which would probably put them at the price of stock because the coil I have now are for SEDC.
If I kept it stock, what else could go wrong mechanically that would make the money I spend of Sachs struts useless?
Any modules that go bad that I should be concerned with?
If you put the Bilsteins on, yes you need to get non-SLS springs (either OEM, for normal ride height, or H&R non-SLS rears for an even lowered height). If you don't want to go lower, why not just source some rear OEM non-SLS springs from eBay or a junkyard? That will be cheap and should accomplish your stated goals of not going any lower.
You could also purchase the Bilsteins and only put the front on for now, and see how it feels with the rear OEM shocks and springs, if the rear shocks are still ok. Then make a decision about the rear from there.
Rerouting is just a couple hose clamps and done, if that's what you're worried about.
So I dont have to do front and rear at the same time? if I go with the Bilsteins?
No, certainly not. The SLS system is only at the rear and operates independently of the front struts.
The EDC system is also separate from the SLS. It operates on all 4 struts, but if you are not turning it on and off, there is no warning light or downside to disconnecting it at one end if you were to only swap in Bilsteins at the front.
I did my front coilovers one weekend, and then drove for 2-3 weeks before I got around to doing the rear, since I was a) tired and lazy and b) gathering the odd parts needed to cap off the SLS lines properly. No issues other than the rear struts still sucked and needed to be replaced.
Just a word on the b4's. They were fine when I had the stock 16" wheels and tires. Now that I've upgraded to 19" e65 wheels, they are inadequate. Just not enough control for the weight of the wheel/tire combo.
Nope. Just get the proper springs and go.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ilstein-Eibach (includes SLS delete)
Last edited by XAlt; 06-18-2017 at 10:10 AM.
I have the Mpar 18"...will the B4 be sufficient for this set up...have them in my cart now.
- - - Updated - - -
It looks like I need to replace the ball joint at the end of the thrust arm on the passenger side. I dont have a tool to get the old one out. Is it worth trying to get it out some way or should I save myself the headache and get a pair of them fully loaded already?
Also...is the a brand I should be looking for as far as thrust arms?
Thanks
Last edited by Magus528; 07-21-2017 at 08:57 AM.
Lemforder or Meyle HD. Replace both ends.
The B4 will be fine
https://www.google.com/search?q=e38+...d8ithVzEOKL-M:
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