Is there any kind of oil treatment/cleaner that works like flushing a radiator
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In the past, I've added a little ATF or Marvel's Mystery Oil to my oil about 100mi before an oil change. This isn't a full oil cleaning or flush, but it'll help pull some more gunk out of the engine when you change the oil.
1993 E36 325is
2003 E46 325iT
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I've been slowly changing gaskets an other miscellaneous stuff and just wanted to see if I could clean the inside of my block via a flush of some kind. I know there's always hot tanking it but I don't want to remove my engine all the way just get her cleaned as much as I can.
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isn't seafoam something you let the engine burn or run on for a while? that wouldn't help much with the oil circuit
If you really want to "flush" it I've used liqui moli products and my engine didn't blow up. I can't really quantify if it actually helped anything.
I don't like the term flush. At least to me it implies leaving nothing behind. You obviously want to at least have some oil left behind on the cylinder walls and whatnot.
Last edited by Nanniepoo; 05-24-2017 at 07:11 PM.
After I did my head gasket, I also wanted to get rid of any gunk or particles inside the oil galleries. I went and bought the cheapest filter and 5w30 synthetic I could find, and used a quart of Marvel's Mystery Oil in place of a quart of oil. Ran it for about a week then replaced the oil and filter with good stuff. I think something like that will fit your needs.
1993 E36 325is
2003 E46 325iT
SpeedHunters feature: http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/...t-dtm-tribute/
APEX feature: https://www.apexraceparts.com/blog/m...-arc-8-wheels/
A friend of mien has told me putting a bottle of Berryman B-12 chemtool in the oil and letting it up 10 minutes before chanign it will strip away tons of crud. I haven't done it myself though so I can't speak from personal experience. I usually dump a bottle of seafoam into the oil and let it run for 10 min. before an oil change, for every oil change.
Rislone (sp)? Everyone swears by it. Comes In a yellow bottle
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I've used off-the-shelf oil flush products which you put in before changing the oil and idle the engine for about 15 minutes. On one of my cars doing this would improve the lifter tick for a little while at least.
I've also heard people using diesel in the oil the same way but not sure about that, as there are mixed reports if you Google it, so might be an element of danger. Though, someone did tell me that they did this as they were having problems with a clogged oil pickup and it worked well.
Now: 1998 E36 318is coupe (supercharged) Past: 1997 E36 318is sedan; 1991 E36 325i sedan; 1994 E36 318is; 1990 E30 318is; 1995 E36 M3; 1990 E30 318is
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Dont use Berryman for this purpose. Although they've changed the formula for environmental reasons, it can be quite caustic and doesn't have lubricating properties of oil. It shouldn't be run through an operating engine. I use it to strip carbon from carburetors I rebuild and it works well in this capacity. It's also effective for removing stubborn deposits on small parts my parts cleaner can't handle.
mslevin made a good recommendation on Marvel Mystery Oil. I also pour it directly into spark plug chambers on seized engines or prior to restarting a block that has sat in storage for an extended period of time. You can find it at any FLAPS. I believe I picked it up at Autozone the last time.
I'm not a believer in flush products, and neither is BMW if you read the Owner's Manual. On a particularly neglected engine you *could* dislodge a major bit of gunk that ends up blocking the oil pickup in the sump - there goes your engine. It could also get stuck in a bearing; there goes you engine (albeit over a longer period).
Your mileage may vary, of course, and plenty of people have used "flush products" and other types of snake oil with varying degrees of success.
Instead, my recommendation is using a diesel conventional oil like Shell Rotella, Castrol RX etc., assuming they carry an API rating for a gasoline engine (i.e. SL, SM, SN) in addition to whatever diesel ratings. You'll be looking for a 15w40, although a 10w30 could work (assuming a HTHS of 3.5 or above, or a similar cSt @ 100ºC to BMW-approved xW-30 oils).
Change it often, say every 3-5k miles.
Interestingly, while a good synthetic can definitely prevent deposits, and even clean them out over time, old-fashioned mineral oils are actually quite good at cleaning some types of deposits, particularly those that cause oil consumption or sludge buildup. Seems the impurities in the Group 1 basestocks of some mineral oils work to dissolve this sort of crud.
Wouldn't surprise me if at least some oil additive products like MMO simply rebottled this stuff!
Have you taken the valve cover off? Is the top end gunked up? You can also get a $12 borescope camera on Amazon, and look inside the oil pan for gunk.
If the engine is relatively clean, let the sleeping dogs sleep.
Second that. Dad used it and now I do when needed, which has been never in a BMW.
And I use it the same way you guys use other stuff- dump it in before oil change time. Depending how nasty the motor is, I may add the Rislone and a filter, run it for a day or two (getting it. Ice and hot) and dumping it hot.
Then fill up with whatever oil and a new filter.
Run Rotella T6 5w40. That stuff really cleans an engine out
A few weeks ago I used an oil engine cleaner from Motul, just before changing my oil (I put Motul X-Cess 5w40 fully synthetic). The old oil had about 7000 km on it, but after using the engine cleaner it got out rather dirty. I would say I feel the engine sweater now, and lifters are quieter...
1993 E36 325is
2003 E46 325iT
SpeedHunters feature: http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/...t-dtm-tribute/
APEX feature: https://www.apexraceparts.com/blog/m...-arc-8-wheels/
198,000 miles on the original engine and it looks like brand new still. Never did a "flush" or anything like that just ran good synthetic oil.
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1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust
That looks nice dude. My only problem is I tried synthetic once and my car hated it. It keep shuttering hard like it was gonna die. I tried 10w40, 30 and 5w 40 not all were synthetic but my car only seems to like 5w30 none synthetic. If I ran your fluid do you think it would just take a bit to get use to I have a 328i 98 it has 230000. I was using penzoil when I first bought it euro kind for the first year then I went to Mobil one since I've had it for 7. Was doing some research about the best kind of oil to run an there were very different answers from everyone. So I tried a few just to experiment and found my cars a picky little bitch lol.
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Your car shouldn't be stuttering hard just because you changed the oil, whether you moved to synthetic or not.
1993 E36 325is
2003 E46 325iT
SpeedHunters feature: http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/...t-dtm-tribute/
APEX feature: https://www.apexraceparts.com/blog/m...-arc-8-wheels/
^^^ yea what he said. You have other issues.
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