So after a couple of rides with my clutch pedal close to the floor (the classic lift it up with toe...not that I had to), Got in it to drive it and clutch pedal to the floor, no pressure. So, this has been discussed before and after a search I think I know the problem:
1. Slave Cylinder has leaked out
2. Need to replace master also, looks original
3. I did see a bit of fluid on the garage floor and blew it off. (ooops)
4. 1980 633csi
So my question is this. I don't particularly feel like tackling this myself, so off to the pros at European Auto Garage here in Knoxville. I am considering attempting to fill up the master with some fluid and see if I can clear out the air (through the leak) by pumping the pedal......ao I can avoid the tow bill from the house to the shop.
What brake fluid should I use?
Is it even worth bothering?
Should I just bite the bullet and call a tow?
I guess I feel like I ought to at least try . . .
Advice welcome
Sounds like the clutch master or slave is failing. If that's the case, you need to replace it. If you have some pedal, drive it home and park it until you can fix it/get it fixed...
It could also be a failed fluid line between the two.
If you see fluid on the ground underneath, you are probably bleeding a failing system and just wasting brake fluid/time...
Diagnose it and replace the failing parts...
I forget what brake fluid. Dot 3 or 4? Others can chime in.
I never had luck with bleeding via pumping the pedal. Even with a pressure bleeder, the clutch is hard to bleed. You'll find posts on how to bleed the clutch from the nipple on the left front brake caliper. I never liked that because you're pushing potentially dirty fluid into the clutch hydraulics, but that's irrelevant for you.
Don't forget to check for a cracked pedal bracket. This is a common problem leading to clutch failure.
I replaced my slave a few weeks back - 20 minutes, not including lifting the car. I bought the FTE slave from FCP Euro and a liter of ATE Typ 200 fluid, for just over $50 and free shipping. 13mm socket with a short extension for the two nuts, and a 10 or 11 mm flare wrench for the hydraulic line, 7mm for the bleeder. When you get the new slave hooked to the hydraulic hose, make sure the reservoir is full and the bleeder is open. Hold the slave so the bleeder is pointing up, and do an initial gravity bleed until the new clear fluid runs out. Next, compress the pushrod into the cylinder, close the bleeder, and release the pushrod. Repeat 3 or 4 times, and the reinstall the cylinder. You'll get a nice firm pedal, with no special bleeding tools required. If you want to be neat, use a piece of clear vinyl hose on the bleeder, with the end in a container of some sort to collect the brake fluid. I've tried pressure bleeding and reverse bleeding, but this method is the quickest and IMO the best.
Dean
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
Dot 4 is it.
Reverse bleed http://www.bmpdesign.com/technical/c...eed_clutch.php
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