Member
How easy are these things to break into, like roadside service/locksmith type guys?
Battery in the new to me car dead (as I already knew). Throwing up all sorts of errors and not starting at all. I put a large battery in there from my falcon and tested everything, all OK.
Had to remove it though because it would hit the inside of the bonnet if I closed it. I had to close the car up because it's parked on the street verge for tonight and I'd otherwise be parking someone in
I just found out the hard way the door key doesn't open the door with out battery power
Been trying to jack the car up and reach up to the terminals and connect jumper leads, but can't reach the positive terminal. Thought about hooking up to the starter but there's no guarantee the positive lead isn't touching the chassis. It's dark and raining now so I had to give up.
Member
I am not sure what side drive you are, but there is a way to manually open the door with the key. Here, it is the passenger side handle. Lift the handle and turn the key the direction you normally would, but the key with turn farther, lifting the door pin. Drop the handle and then open the door.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XQt4GowLGI
-Alex
Member
The "emergency lockout procedure" above is a great trick!!!
Unfortunately it did not work for me when i was in this situation. Could definitely see the lock trying to wiggle free, but just wouldnt do the job.
The key would open only the trunk, so i had to use the ski passthrough and was barely able to reach one of the rear doors. I hope your luck is better
Member
Worse it seems. The key catches on something, but does not open either door. Also my back seat is solid, so I can't get in your way either.
shade tree mechanic
Moderator
unlocking deadlocked car via trunk light connection
The emergency unlock is known by lifting the passenger door handle and then turning the key over a certain resistance. Even with a dead battery the trunk can be opened with the key by turning it anti-clockwise and then push the trunk unlock button.
A few pointers to connecting power to the trunk lamp:
Firstly, the trunk light is a good place to connect power as it is constantly connected to the battery via Fuse 33 (refers to E32). However, you must only use a charger at this point, and only one that can supply a maximum of 10A. If you use a fully-charged battery you will blow Fuse 33.
The trunk light has two wires going to it, RED/WHITE is the positive supply, connect the chargers +ve terminal to here. Connect the charger-ve lead to somewhere on the chassis.....this removes any possibility of reverse polarity.
When the charger is connected and charging, allow 10 minutes before trying the central locking, this is just enough time to get enough charge in the battery to supply the locks.
If you have not got a charger you can use a battery but MUST connect it via a 55W ( for example headlamp) bulb. This reduces the current to a safe level.
DON'T connect to any other lighting point, these go via the LKM or General Module and it is not a good idea to stuff power up these!
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Member
I would follow shogun's advice above if more oomph doesnt get the lock up. Worst case is the ski pass hole sheet metal can be knocked out. Remove the carpet piece and youll see the outline. Its not held in by much.Originally Posted by fo3
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Whatever you do, dont break a window. We'll get you into the car.
-Alex
Member
The way I read it, there is no battery on the car. So powering via the boot lights is not going to work, is it?
Not about to post how to break into the car but OP you have mail
shade tree mechanic
Moderator
yes, it works without installed battery, we had this case here http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1263862
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Member
Umm, people, something as weird as heck just happened, one of the rear doors wasn't locked (passenger side rear so I hadn't tried that door yet).
Thanks for all the responses though. I promise next time I won't waste anyone's time. That rear lamp hook up trick is awesome though.
And I guess once I buy a battery I got to work out why one door doesn't lock...
FASTEN SEAT BELTS
Lock bracket maybe, the metal quality is piss poor and stress cracks.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-22-2017 at 10:16 AM.
Member
Seems like it. Already hooked a battery back up and unlocked/locked and it stayed unlocked. Is there a how-to for fixing that?
Member
What year is your car?
A rear door on an early(to a lesser degree on '92+)car that won't either lock or unlock is likely due to a seized lock actuator. This is common, be glad it is UN-locked.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
FASTEN SEAT BELTS
Ah, it's the rear.
Actuator it is.
Member
These bonnets/hoods are heavy. Working at night is a risk when you can't see it dropping on you, missed my head but gashed my ear badly which bloodied my shirt.
Not a good start indeed. Goodnight, I'm going to have some drinks now.
Tomorrow I'll get some bonnet struts and an actuator as well as a battery and the head coolant sensor.
Member
Even with new bonnet struts it can still blow down if it is windy. Keep a length of 2 x 1 in the boot
Maybe amend your status to show what car you have got?
Member
[QUOTE=whiskychaser;29716546]Even with new bonnet struts it can still blow down if it is windy. Keep a length of 2 x 1 in the boot
Oh yeah! Nothing like the pain of that roller on the back edge striking you between the shoulder blades
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Member
I can unlock my passenger side door without any tricks when the battery is dead.
My drivers side lock seized up, so I can't open that at all, and trunk lock is on it's way out.
I will be taking out the locks and see if I can clean them up, hoping to unseize them.
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