Steering wheel vertical and horizontal adjust issus

[vet73]

I have seen a few posts with no resolutions to the issue of non functioning steering wheel vertical and horizontal electrical adjustments. My 95 model 840Ci has been on and off functioning (mostly non functioning as of late) with no apparent causative patterns like temperature or fuses found yet. BMW tech thought module might be at fault. He applied voltage directly to drive motor wiring and got movement. That control module however was $700 + and with no guarantee that it would then function correctly. He suggested that one could apply voltages directly to control motors for adjustment and maybe even use stalk switch rewired for this purpose to simply direct voltage to the drive motors for adjustments. I can, as one posts suggest, turn the Allen screws in the end of the drive screws to move the wheel up and down but this is impractical to do each drive time and doesn't seem to correct the electrical control by the stalk. My question is, has anyone tried direct wiring or repurposing the control stalk switch to control directly without module input? Alternately, has anyone tried simply to use a simple double throw type switch to control each plane of the movement by directing power directly to the drive control motors? I understand that the memory control function would be lost, but this is a minor loss compared to getting the other vertical and horizontal control functions back. Thanks in advance for any help.

[mbarrett635]

I had this problem, and fixed it by replacing the module. They show up on ebay from time to time, and that's where I got mine. Fairly easy fix; the module is located behind the center dash vents and is an easy plug and play replacement.

[vet73]

Thanks, mbarret635. I'll start looking for that module. Do you know if it is Year or model specific, that is 840 vs 850?

[dancerst]

Rewiring stalk through several relays directly to the motors is pretty easy job.

But I would first check connection points on the fuse (my friend had the same problem, and just removing and putting fuse back helped each time)

Second... I don't believe that control module can just die. Try to open it and see if anything burned inside and (if present) change capacitors.

Third. You probably can get E38-E39 control modules because they work exactly the same.

[mbarrett635]

Thanks, mbarret635. I'll start looking for that module. Do you know if it is Year or model specific, that is 840 vs 850?

RealOEM shows it as the same part for all models, 840/850, auto and manual. The only difference is between the version with memory and the version without -- but I'm pretty sure all US cars use the memory version. The part number (which is how I search for this kind of thing on ebay) is 32311160011.

[vet73]

Thanks guys. I'm looking now thru eBay. One without memory is on couple hundred bucks but with memory it's close to $700 new. I'll try used. Anyone know which fuse is for this memory controller box. Not obvious on fuse charts.

[mbarrett635]

This popped up on ebay today. I never cancelled the search I had programmed to look for this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/371969466285?ul_noapp=true

[vet73]

Thanks Mike. Looking into ordering now!

- - - Updated - - -

Just ordered. Another posted problem answered with help from this forums great members!

[PlumToe]

Hi vet73. Curious to know if swapping the module solved your issue. Having the same erratic problems on my 94 and recently sourced a replacement module, not yet installed. Also wondering how difficult it will be to access the module. Thanks.

[mbarrett635]

Hi vet73. Curious to know if swapping the module solved your issue. Having the same erratic problems on my 94 and recently sourced a replacement module, not yet installed. Also wondering how difficult it will be to access the module. Thanks.

The module is relatively easy to access -- it's behind the center vent in the dash. Once that comes out, the module is easy to remove. Be careful not to crack the vent (assuming it isn't already cracked).

However, before replacing the module, have you tried to reset it? You need to pull the fuse (I don't remember the number off hand, but its in the trunk panel) for several minutes. Then when you replace the fuse, run the steering wheel fully up, then fully down, then fully in, and fully out. If that doesn't work, its most probably the module. That's assuming that you don't hear motors running when you try to adjust the steering wheel. On the other hand, if you DO hear the motors running, but the wheel doesn't move, then it's not the module -- it's a cable in the steering column. I had that problem as well, but the dealer fixed it, not me.

Mike Barrett

[PlumToe]

Mike, you have given me hope. Not only regarding access to the module, but I'll try the reset. I've had the fuse pulled for a while and recently thought I'd try my luck that by some miraculous "hope" it may have just reset itself. Nada. But appears there is more to it so I'll give your full motion calibration a try to avoid cracking the vent....again!

[m6bigdog]

Hi vet73. Curious to know if swapping the module solved your issue. Having the same erratic problems on my 94 and recently sourced a replacement module, not yet installed. Also wondering how difficult it will be to access the module. Thanks.

A couple of years ago my Steering Column Memory Controller was acting erratic with the control reversed and would not travel the full range.
I have a BMW DIS and resetting the memory module did nothing to solve the problem.

I pulled the module and did some troubleshooting and I discover a bad cap on the board that was part of the power supply circuit.
My steering column has been working ever since I replaced the cap.
If you still need some help I'm willing to supply what I know.

FWIW, buying a 20 year old used memory module may be a repair short lived, as the electrolytic caps that fail will also have many years of being power-up in the used module and eventually they will fail also.
Best to save money and just replace the failed caps ($5-10) and with that repair the memory module should last many years.

[EEDegreeToDrive]

I have seen a few posts with no resolutions to the issue of non functioning steering wheel vertical and horizontal electrical adjustments. My 95 model 840Ci has been on and off functioning (mostly non functioning as of late) with no apparent causative patterns like temperature or fuses found yet. BMW tech thought module might be at fault. He applied voltage directly to drive motor wiring and got movement. That control module however was $700 + and with no guarantee that it would then function correctly. He suggested that one could apply voltages directly to control motors for adjustment and maybe even use stalk switch rewired for this purpose to simply direct voltage to the drive motors for adjustments. I can, as one posts suggest, turn the Allen screws in the end of the drive screws to move the wheel up and down but this is impractical to do each drive time and doesn't seem to correct the electrical control by the stalk. My question is, has anyone tried direct wiring or repurposing the control stalk switch to control directly without module input? Alternately, has anyone tried simply to use a simple double throw type switch to control each plane of the movement by directing power directly to the drive control motors? I understand that the memory control function would be lost, but this is a minor loss compared to getting the other vertical and horizontal control functions back. Thanks in advance for any help.

I fixed mine by unplugging one of the connectors from the steering wheel module--
This disabled memory function, so it doesn't automatically move up and down when you get in and out of the car-- No problem!
Interestingly, it still works great manually (without memory)..

I was tempted to try new capacitors in my module, but it wasn't an easy job and I didn't have the parts on hand-- If there is enough interest, I can procure parts.

[PlumToe]

I picked up a used LSM today for $40. Figure I didn't have much to lose at that price, even if this one is also defunct.

EEDegree: You've caught my interest by simply bypassing the memory. Which of the 3 plugs might that be?

mgbigdog: a permanent cap fix sounds great to this seemingly recurring issue on older LSM's. I'll PM you.

Thanks everyone.

[m6bigdog]

I fixed mine by unplugging one of the connectors from the steering wheel module--
This disabled memory function, so it doesn't automatically move up and down when you get in and out of the car-- No problem!
Interestingly, it still works great manually (without memory)..

I was tempted to try new capacitors in my module, but it wasn't an easy job and I didn't have the parts on hand-- If there is enough interest, I can procure parts.

The cap in my memory module that failed was a the 10uf 10Vdc green dipped tantalum
Mouser sells them: Vishay, 199D106X9010B1V1E3, http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...owBPi9NV8PI%3d.

The other capacitors associated with the memory module power supply are:
47uf 10Vdc (green dipped tantalum) lead spacing .2"
1uf 63Vdc (radial lead electrolytic) lead spacing .1"
100uf 50Vdc (radial lead electrolytic) Lead spacing .2

I included the data sheet for the dual power supply in the memory module.
One of the regulators produces a continuous +5V and the other comes up when the ignition switch is ON.
The dead give-a-way for me was one of the dual +5V outputs was only putting out something like 3V due to the 10uf cap shorting out.

[vet73]

PlumToe, sorry I'm so late in seeing this reply to my original post. To make a long story shortened, installing a known eBay sourced-as-good module did not help. My BMW mechanic, at my asking, wired some leads to the motor inputs so that i might be able to use a DPDT type switch to manually operate the steering wheel function at least to get it into a more neutral position. Sadly, I just could never quite figure out the lead function and fearing I would burn the car and garage down, I just decided to put the steering wheel (SW) into a more neutral position manually (it was stuck in the most vertical and inward positions). To do this, as other posts have shown, I removed the bottom nacelle under the SW and turned the jack shafts that the motors turn a few rounds. After doing that enough to center the SW, I turned on the ign switch and low and behold, the wheel tried to drop down to my personal memory setting and when ign was turned off, it rose to the most vertical position. That told me that the motors worked and that the memory function was working, just that the motors were not able to fully or easily function. As has been stated on this forum before, spraying the jack shafts with a lubricant, penetrating oil, can help free up the dried and hardened lubricant from the original 1995 install and allow some function. Of course the best mode of operation would be to remove the whole steering column and rebuild and clean everything. That was just way too much and too complicated of dang work for me to restore this simple function. I had used the penetrating oil years prior to very limited success but I guess the lubricant had again hardened. So I decided to work with the success that I had, working to manually assist the motors by lifting up and down slightly on the SW while the motors were moving and likewise in and out while working the motors in that plane. Slowly the full swing of the movements returned, occasionally with no help and sometimes with some manual assist. The SW does go to the most vertical and inward motion when the ign is switched off and tries to go to the memory setting position when switched on again. Sometimes, like my 68 year old frame, it needs a little manual help. Simply stated, I can live with that much movement. So now I have the original module that I removed that is most likely good and I simply don't want to take everything back apart to get the $299 "new" module back out. If I can help anyone by offering the original module at no costs to help with any diagnosis, I'd be glad to send it to anyone that is a member of this forum to help repay the many answers and replies I have been fortunate enough to get in my efforts to repair my 840. Hope this input helps some.

[EEDegreeToDrive]

I picked up a used LSM today for $40. Figure I didn't have much to lose at that price, even if this one is also defunct.
EEDegree: You've caught my interest by simply bypassing the memory. Which of the 3 plugs might that be?
mgbigdog: a permanent cap fix sounds great to this seemingly recurring issue on older LSM's. I'll PM you.

The cap in my memory module that failed was a the 10uf 10Vdc green dipped tantalum
Mouser sells them: Vishay, 199D106X9010B1V1E3, http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...owBPi9NV8PI%3d.

The other capacitors associated with the memory module power supply are:
47uf 10Vdc (green dipped tantalum) lead spacing .2"
1uf 63Vdc (radial lead electrolytic) lead spacing .1"
100uf 50Vdc (radial lead electrolytic) Lead spacing .2

M6BD--
Thanks for doing the legwork on this one-- Last time I had my module out was for my heater core job, and I didn't have time to tear into it.

I replaced a shorted capacitor in an EML a few weeks ago for a forum member, and had identified a few different types of capacitors, including tantalum, and low ESR parts (all were >105C parts). Regardless, I ordered a bunch of capacitors for that job, I believe I posted the caps I used. I'll double check my stock of parts for steering/door modules and order a bunch more.

All--
M6BD Makes a great point about parts here (as I've done in other threads). He identified a few tantalum parts.. It's not simply enough to just match voltage and capacitance. Component chemistry, tolerance, ESR, and temperature range are also important, or you'll risk premature failure of any repair job.
If anyone wants to send me their modules for repair, I'll come up with a very reasonable price. Depending on interest, I'll may kit-up capacitors for DIY folks, since some caps in our cars are $5/10/ea. (Most are cheaper, though)


Oh and would you believe this-- The starter capacitor on my outside home A/C unit quit too! 55uF/7uF 370VAC, $23 on Amazon. :-)

[m6bigdog]

While we are discussing the steering column,
I would encourage everyone to inspect the slip-joint.
The symptom will be the steering wheel will actually remain in place while the steering column housing first starts moving in. This is putting the rubber flex coupling under a lot of unnecessary stress telescoping the steering wheel.

On my 8 the grease on the slip-joint had become super thick and sticky and it required a lot of force to make it telescope. I could not telescope it by hand.
In fact in order to pull it apart to clean it up, after loosening the tension nut, I had to use a wood dowel and hammer to drive the spline section out of the sleeve.

[8Serious]

While we are discussing the steering column,
I would encourage everyone to inspect the slip-joint.
The symptom will be the steering wheel will actually remain in place while the steering column housing first starts moving in. This is putting the rubber flex coupling under a lot of unnecessary stress telescoping the steering wheel.

On my 8 the grease on the slip-joint had become super thick and sticky and it required a lot of force to make it telescope. I could not telescope it by hand.
In fact in order to pull it apart to clean it up, after loosening the tension nut, I had to use a wood dowel and hammer to drive the spline section out of the sleeve.

I am experiencing a similar issue. Restrictions in both up/down and in/out. The up/down only moves about 3/4". The in/out has more movement but column moves separate from the SW, I didn't suspect the slip-joint until reading this post. Thank you!. Previously I had lubricated the small drive screws and seemed to gain some movement. There isn't any issue with the reversal of controls so presumably a mechanical issue alone. Mine also appears dried up, to the point I can't even get the grease to transfer to my finger. Is it correct to assume this removal and cleaning can not be completed without dismantling the entire steering column? Has anyone had any success breaking it free and lubricating it in place? Thanks in advance.
IMG_9782.jpgIMG_9780.jpgIMG_9781.jpg


Link below to a short video of the issue:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_tg...ew?usp=sharing

[m6bigdog]

I am experiencing a similar issue. Restrictions in both up/down and in/out. The up/down only moves about 3/4". The in/out has more movement but column moves separate from the SW, I didn't suspect the slip-joint until reading this post. Thank you!. Previously I had lubricated the small drive screws and seemed to gain some movement. There isn't any issue with the reversal of controls so presumably a mechanical issue alone. Mine also appears dried up, to the point I can't even get the grease to transfer to my finger. Is it correct to assume this removal and cleaning can not be completed without dismantling the entire steering column? Has anyone had any success breaking it free and lubricating it in place? Thanks in advance.
IMG_9782.jpgIMG_9780.jpgIMG_9781.jpg


Link below to a short video of the issue:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_tg...ew?usp=sharing

Looks familiar.
The up/down is the limit set-up for the controller (DIS setup) or an actual steering column control failure. Nothing to do with the slip-joint.
The in/out telescoping is definitely the slip-joint ceased due to the hardened grease but that doesn't mean the controller hasn't failed also.
The grease is like cement! and most likely once you fix the slip-joint the up/down issue will persist!
You could try some WD40 on the slip joint.
There is a rubber flex joint at the top of the telescoping section, at the upper steering shaft and spraying WD40, paint thinner or Goof-Off down the hollow telescoping section may disolve the hardened grease. May take several days to accomplish the task. Make sure to protect the carpet with a metal pan to catch the desolved grease and solvent drippings.
If all else fails, the telescoping section can be removed by disconnecting the shaft at the steering box and at the upper rubber flex joint.

[8Serious]

Looks familiar.
The up/down is the limit set-up for the controller (DIS setup) or an actual steering column control failure. Nothing to do with the slip-joint.
The in/out telescoping is definitely the slip-joint ceased due to the hardened grease but that doesn't mean the controller hasn't failed also.
The grease is like cement! and most likely once you fix the slip-joint the up/down issue will persist!
You could try some WD40 on the slip joint.
There is a rubber flex joint at the top of the telescoping section, at the upper steering shaft and spraying WD40, paint thinner or Goof-Off down the hollow telescoping section may disolve the hardened grease. May take several days to accomplish the task. Make sure to protect the carpet with a metal pan to catch the desolved grease and solvent drippings.
If all else fails, the telescoping section can be removed by disconnecting the shaft at the steering box and at the upper rubber flex joint.

I hadn't considered lubricating through the hollow center. I might also try loosing the slip nut in place. I feared that the up/down could be control related. Thank you again, I will let you know how it goes.