On Friday I discovered a leaking fuel line hose at the back of the fuel rail line where it connects to the fuel return line. First went to NAPA to buy a hose. Had a hard time getting hose onto fittings. I think it was the wrong size hose and it was rather stiff. Saturday went to $tealer and purchased what it is a kit( the hose, about 2" long and 2 clamps), cost me $20. Pelicanparts had the same kit listed for about the same. Put the hose on today. It went on easier than NAPA hose. It was still a struggle. Did not remove manifold. Just removed cowel and pushed wire harness sort of out of way.
Then after hose replaced, no fuel leak when turning car on or trying to start. But now car will not start. However on Friday after discovering leak and patching it up with gorilla tape, car still started and was able to drive it home even with leak, about 3 miles. Tank was on reserve and so went and got 3 gallons of gas.
FYI: Had head headgasket job done prior to this. Had the car for about a week before the leak occurred. My thinking is the hose got cut when the mechanic put it back together, plus hose probably needed to be replaced anyway as a result of age. It is a 94 325is with 316K miles.
But the question is why will the car not start?. They put in a new starter after the job. they did have a hard time getting the car started at some point after job was done. Car started with no problem after I pickred it up.
Could it be a fuel pump issue, or maybe fuel pump fuse or relay?
I did remove the fuel pump fuse when replacing the hose. If the car started with leaking hose why would it not start with a new non-leaking hose?
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to make sure I provide as much info as possible.
Your input is greatly appreciated.
The return line should not have enough pressure to leak check it for restrictions, pinched hard line, possibly reversed fuel lines, is the pump running?
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Doesn't start? What does this mean? When you turn the key, does the engine crank or it does nothing at all? Need to be more specific.
The lines are not reversed, I believe.According to the realoem.com diagram the supply line goes from the fuel filter to the front of the rail and the return line goes from the rear of the fuel rail to the return line. That is where the leak occurred. There is a short 2" inch hose that connects the two and that is the little hose thsat had a tear in ir. I took it off in the parking lot and put it back in after I patched it up. The car started and I drove it home. The hard line is not pinched. I handled it by hand. As for the pump running, I cannot say yea or nay. I did not remove the rear seat to listen, too much stuff in tn the back seat plus it was getting dark. May doit early in the morning.
the engine cranks. Knock sensors were replaced during head job and cam and crank sensors were replaced in last 2 years. Battery is fully charged. Starter is new.
I am leaning toward fuel pump.
One more question, to ckeck fuel pump fuse voltage, all I have to do is turn car on without starting, and check for voltage, right? I did put a new fuse in because I thought maybe that was the problem. The probe light did not light up.
What is your fuel pressure at the rail?
did you reverse the direction of the filter? Basic I know but...
Try old working fuel pump relay. Check for power at fuel pump if you dont hear it run. Electronically test fuel pump fuse. Check connections at starter if it Doesnt crank or spin along with battery voltage.
Make sure relay is in correctly. Sometimes they will fit in more than 1 way, but fuel pressure check will help steer you in the right direction
The fuel pump relay is only on when the engine runs. The relay is the one on the side of the fuse box towards the front. Jump pins 87&30 with a piece of wire. You should hear the pump run. If not its probably the pump or lack of power to the relay.
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Just to update my original post about the car not starting. Monday morning when I went to the car and tried it again, it started briefly( for about 10-15 sec) after pulling the fuel pump relay and then it stalled. The rpms were kind of high but like I said it stalled. When the relay is in it will not start. I checked for voltage at terminal 30 and it had 12.55v. No voltage at terminal 87 with key in "on position". Fuel pump is new. Battery is good. Starter is new. New fuel pump and Main relay. Relay fuse did not give reading with probe light. Will check with voltmeter today.
Your car should've stalled after pulling the relay as it eventually runs out of fuel. It will also take some time to start after putting the relay back in since the whole system needs to prime.
In another thread you claim you washed your engine and drove your car. Do you have multiple cars? Just want to make sure we're not confusing issues.
Last edited by Nanniepoo; 05-23-2017 at 11:23 AM.
Awe jeeze, I told you to pull the friggin manifold dude. First of all it's hard as hell to replace with the manifold on, secondly you can't see wtf you are doing. I am positive if you remove the manifold you will see the problem. Its easy to remove, also your fuel pressure vacuum line is probably toast
It was a friend's car. We went to the car wash to wash the wheels(they were so dirty, I could not stand it and wanted to clean them) and then the engine bay. So, no I do not have multiple cars.
Sounds to me like you are saying I should keep trying to start it, obviously not constantly because I might wear out the starter. I hope that works.
I am glad I did not do that.. The day I discovered the leak, I removed the hose (it is a 2 inch hose that sits right behind the mani) without removing the manifold and after patching it up I put it back in to get home.2 miles.. All I did was remove the window cowel and then I lifted the wire harness up and it gave me access to the hose. The reason I had a hard time getting the first replacement hose in, was because it was the wrong size hose and it was very stiff. I bought it at NAPA. The size of the hose is 8mm(intenal diameter) by 13mm(xternal diam.) and I got it from the dealer and it slid on much easier than the NAPA hose. Also, I could see the leak without removing the mani. When I first discovered the leak, I looked back there and could see the fuel spraying out. I also removed the plastic trim that goes over the fuel rail.
Not sure why the fuel pressure vacuum line would be toast?
As for having to remove the mani just to replace the hose which you can see and reach, I believe there are many ways to skin a cat. For instance, sometime ago when I had to replace my starter we did it without removing the manifold and same thing for the IACV. It also helps to have long skinny fingers and hands to get into those tight spaces.
Also, can we leave the profanity out of the posts. We are supposed to just exchange ideas and thoughts here and not get angry and become belligerent. Just saying.
Last edited by TITE3NBIGD; 05-23-2017 at 04:03 PM.
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