I figured I would start a build thread for my project. I had a friend that had an s54 swapped e36 m3 and ended up messing the engine up on a high speed run before I was able to drive it or ride in it. He sent me many videos of the car and I fell in love and always wanted one of my own! I had an m5 for sale a couple months ago, John from R&I Motorsports reached out to me wanting the m5 and offered an s54 swap for the car. I've always wanted the swap so we negotiated and came to a deal.
after a little back and forth I got the s54 engine
The car it's going in is a 95 m3 that I've had about a year just sitting around. It's very clean and all original. I got a 5 speed to go behind it. Really would love a 6 speed, but a 5 speed is more realistic. I've read through a few people's threads but I'll need some guidance and wisdom on the more detailed items.
about to set the engine and trans in the car. leaving the engine as a long block at the moment and install things while it's in the car. I can always pull it back out if I need to.
I'm waiting on a flywheel and clutch kit from R&I Motorsports and then I'll get it dropped in
will update when I can. don't have allot of parts right now and still trying to source allot of things. Goal is to have a 300whp 250wtq car
I'd personally find another M3...
Clean original 95's are getting rare.
Plenty of others out there.
no updates yet. I have a 3 day weekend so I'm hoping to get allot more done.
Still waiting on the flywheel and clutch kit from R&I Motorsports
I have the z3m motor mount. Do you guy's still use the e36 rubber motor mounts? are they different on the z3m?
I used E9X mounts, but I believe they're all the same size. slight upgrade too
Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 05-27-2017 at 12:39 AM.
cool! I never thought about going newer, might look into those for final install. just wanted to make sure I could get it sitting right with what I already had
Last edited by lbennyboobool; 05-27-2017 at 01:15 PM.
Oh yea E36 will be fine initially. You're good
sadly no new updates. Haven't received the clutch kit from R&I Motorsports yet, so it's looking like i'll have to order my own
any recommendations? stock work well or an FX stage 2? Plan is to be a daily driver with a little autoX sprinkled in
5 speed 3.46 gears if that helps determine the best clutch kit to purchase. Currently do not have a flywheel either
while I was waiting on the clutch and flywheel kit to come in, I decided to tackle an easy project of putting headers in my 95 M3 and ended up like this!! Might as well do allot more while I'm in there
Last edited by lbennyboobool; 06-05-2017 at 12:56 PM.
I'm using the UUC E34 M5 with ltw flywheel kit. No complaints except some chatter but that's trivial.
I don't know much about clutches, but I heard good things of the FX too. 3:46 will be awesome with the 5 speed.
from what I understand which I could be wrong there will be some chatter with going to a single mass flywheel compared to the stock dual mass. I'm not too concerned with noise since the exhaust should drown most of it out (hopefully).
are you using the organic disc or performance clutch disc? I like their clutch kits allot just seems awfully expensive, but you have to pay to play at times
chatter is only at idle and sub 700rpms..
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Chatter is not an issue. Mines been doing it for 70k miles and it still shifts fine.
Rogue and one other vendor have group N type motor mounts. Genuine are around $800 and those are supposed to be similar.
I will be getting these myself.
I'll be running UUC blue trans mounts with cups and ecs diff mounts. Do most people keep the engine mounts stock? I've heard something needs to not be stiff so things don't break.
Haven't done allot of research into that yet though
I think i'll buy the FX flywheel and clutch kit and see how well it is. Hopefully it'll last a few thousand miles
I went with the Bimmerworld performance mounts. I had UUC tranny mounts, but switched back to OEM due to vibration issues. I suspect my subframe repair (motor mount bolts pulled through) left something misaligned.
'95 M3 S54 Track Toy
'19 X5 40i M-Sport
'16 Cayman GT4
‘23 GR Corolla
are you happier with the performance motor mounts and stock trans mounts over stock motor mounts and UUC trans mounts?
My stock 95 M3 had black poly motor mounts and stock trans mounts and I liked it really well, but already bought the trans mounts and cups so figured I'd just go that way, but don't mind switching it up for a better combination
Can't really compare. I switched back to stock tranny mounts before my swap. Kept them, and added the BW mounts when I did the motor swap. They seem to work fine. It is a dedicated track car, so a higher level of noise and vibration can be tolerated, but with the UUC tranny mounts it felt like something was going to come apart (with the S50). No issues now, with about 5000 track miles since the swap.
'95 M3 S54 Track Toy
'19 X5 40i M-Sport
'16 Cayman GT4
‘23 GR Corolla
I've never had UUC tranny mounts on anything before so I really don't know what to suspect. Vibration around the trans and driveshaft area would concern me. I'm wanting a solid feel but I don't want to break things when I want to have a little fun. Since your car is a track car does it have allot of poly bushings in the rear?
Solid bushings for subframe and diff. Monoball RTAB.
'95 M3 S54 Track Toy
'19 X5 40i M-Sport
'16 Cayman GT4
‘23 GR Corolla
Don't use any aftermarket mount that uses a through-bolt to fasten together as only half the deflection direction is dampened.
That's what I'm wanting to do to my car just poly not solid aluminum (not sure exactly what you have). Friends have told me to just replace them with new stock bushings, but if I'm going to do all that work might as well go a little performance
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I think I understand what you're saying, but do you by chance have a picture of each? Makes sense though! Thanks for the tip learning something new every day
Do
E9X motor mounts, UUC BLUE isolated trans mounts, 95A Akg diff mounts and Akg solid aluminum subframe. Car will be firm without annoying NVH. Trust me.
the isolated means NOT bolt through.
Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 06-07-2017 at 10:07 PM.
Here's a isolated trans mount: http://www.rogueengineering.com/Rogu...nts_p_137.html
Here's a non-isolated mount: http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/trans...air-p1308.aspx
Personally I'm a fan of the OEM bushings for most locations on the car.
Last edited by M52 POWER!; 06-08-2017 at 09:34 AM.
Thank you sir I've been following your suspension refresh build and you do amazing work! Very very detailed work! New bushings either OEM or not is still better then old bushings!
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How much of a pain is aluminum subframe bushings to put in? I've thought about going with the aluminum diff bushings, but I don't know
You don't want solid diff. Though its not as big an issue on E36 vs E46, but you'll still REALLY notice that. The idea is to secure the SF to the frame, solid, then allow the drivetrain to buffer NVH. It makes for a really nice, firm, feel.
you do this with poly though, OEM will be overabused. The poly can handle it. 95A is a great diff bush...75D is harder, but will handle bigger power better. I'll think about 75D next round, but my 95A are more than adequate.
installing the aluminum subframe bushings was easy with a press. If you feel uncomfortable doing that, a shop should take no more than 25-50 bucks to do i!
Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 06-08-2017 at 10:57 AM.
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