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Thread: In the market for a 2011 328i -- common problems?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Kirkland, WA, USA
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2011 328i

    In the market for a 2011 328i -- common problems?

    Hi all,

    I'm a recent convert to the ultimate driving machine, and I'm a bit of a noob (mechanically - but I'm trying to learn!). I have several friends who own BMWs and pointed me to this forum. I currently own a Honda Pilot -- but will be looking to move to something a little more fun, like a BMW! The Pilot is super impractical for my situation (no kids anytime soon/never haul anything large/never really load tons of friends in the back/etc). My dad had a 2008 328i growing up -- and I truly fell in love with it.

    Now that I'm a few years into adulthood, I'm looking to make my first BMW! I've done a lot of research and it seems like the N52 engine on the 2011 328i is fairly reliable. Can you confirm/dispute this? As I'm patiently waiting for the right deal/keeping an eye on the market, I have a few more questions I'd like answered before I make an informed purchase:

    1) Is there a certain mile limit/threshold that you wouldn't purchase beyond? Nothing above 70K? I know it's mainly about how the car has been treated/serviced -- but curious for your opinions.

    2) What major issues should I be looking out for? The #1 issue I've found (outside of the basics) is the valve cover gasket + oil filter housing gasket at 80-100K miles. Let me know what I'm missing.

    3) Other general/tips/tricks?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Metairie, LA
    Posts
    596
    My Cars
    2001 325i; 2006 325i
    Having your questions answered wouldn't even come close to putting you in a position to make an informed decision. The BMW inline 6 is pretty much bullet proof, as long as the oil was changed timely.

    Your problems will lie in other areas. Everyone here is going to say the same thing. First, find a car you're interested in, get the VIN and run it through carfax to do a preliminary history check on the car. If the carfax report is satisfactory, then arrange a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) and have the car checked out. This will cost you a few hundred. If the PPI doesn't reveal any major defects and you still want the car after reviewing the results of the PPI, then see if you can strike a deal.

    Still, even getting a PPI doesn't guarantee that you won't have any problems post purchase. I wouldn't say that there's any mileage threshold beyond which you just shouldn't buy a BMW. The fact of the matter is that any part can break on any car. If you are looking at a car with more than 50k miles and it doesn't have a warranty, I'd look at the service history and check for things like,

    -water pump/thermostat
    -starter
    -transmission service
    -brakes
    -suspension

    The big question is whether you can afford to keep up with the car. You're either going to need some pretty deep pockets or be able to do most of the work yourself. You asked about major issues. With a well cared for car, you shouldn't need to worry so much about major issues, but even the minor ones can nickel and dime you to death.

    The water pump going out, for example. A water pump kit can be had for around $400, but the dealer charges around $1k to replace it. Valve cover gasket...I've read reports of people having paid over $1k to have this done. The starter going out, over $1k. When I say over $1k, I've read reports of some "minor" repairs costing $2 and $3k.

    I drive a 2006 325i. My son drives a 2001 325i. I am not the kind of guy that makes enough money to be able to afford 2 BMWs in the conventional sense. The only reason that I can afford to have them is because I do everything myself.

    I bought my '06 with 88k miles on it. It was in pristine condition. Good carfax with good records and inspection came back clean. Two weeks after I bought it, I had a couple of problems. I got a fault code on the eccentric shaft sensor and then I started getting the infamous stop/bump from the transmission.

    To me, not a big deal. Over the course of 30 years of working on my own cars, I've gathered a pretty extensive collection of tools. I replaced the eccentric shaft sensor for $300 (the sensor and valve cover gasket and other related hardware). What I believe is the root of my transmission problem is a $20 part. Yes, a $20 part that requires dropping the transmission pan and valve body to replace. The parts alone for these two repairs is going to come in at about $400, but would cost thousands at a dealership, due to labor costs.

    Even a simple transmission service costs about $300 in parts and fluids alone.

    I'm not trying to steer you clear of BMWs, I just want to make sure that you know what you're getting yourself into. If your father is going to be paying for repairs/maintenance as needed, then you don't have much to worry about. If your father isn't, then you might want to re-think your decision to get a BMW.

    If you do get a BMW and will be doing the work yourself, then do the above. Run the VIN and get a PPI. Then I'd invest in some sort of diagnostic equipment. Either a handheld unit or some sort of laptop setup with a cable. Generic OBD scanners do not work well on BMWs. I'd also budget $200 or so a month for car maintenance and that is after you get the car right after purchase. Unless there are records of common maintenance items actually having been done, then I would assume that they haven't been done and do them.

    This includes, changing ALL fluids. If it's liquid, change it. People tend to let this go once the service contract is up. I'd also change the drive belt and pulleys. If the drive belt or pulleys let go while you're driving, very bad things can happen. After 50k miles, the water pump is on borrowed time. Same for the starter. The fuel pump can also be a problem.

    I'm a bit paranoid and put a lot of stock in records. I know the inline 6 is a very good engine. I pay attention to how well the car has been taken care of. What was replaced an when.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    159
    My Cars
    E90, E46
    N52K-
    Water pump, valve COVER not just gasket, oil pan gasket, oil filter housing gasket, eccentric shaft sensor, FRM, RDC depending on year, alternator belt tensioner, front driveshaft, mechatronics sleeve, evaporator...probably a few other things I can't think of right now.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    512
    My Cars
    335i E93 N54
    Coil packs.

    I own a 2010 328xi, E92 and really never had any issues, besides coil packs. (minutes to change)
    I have 162,000 KM and expect no less than 300,000 if I were to abuse it.

    My previous N/A bimmers have all done over 300 with no issue.
    I just bought a 2008 335xi Coupe with 178,000. I still expect similar mileage.

    As stated though, do a VIN check. I did, for this specific vehicle it gave me confidence, while others it removed the confidence.

    I do most minor stuff myself, such as brakes or coil packs.
    Otherwise I go to a reputable BMW specialist, not the dealer.
    So far, I've not found any of my bimmers to be money pits.

    And they do make me smile, every time I get in mine!!

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