M3 Brakes......

[MN2K740i]

So I'm getting into the brakes on my new toy here ('03 M3) and it appears to me, that it has comp package brakes (cross drilled steel rotors with aluminum hats) but the car isn't equipped (as far as I can tell) with the comp package.

Is it just different pads and rotors for that or is it different calipers as well.

I'm an M3 newb as well as a 3 series all together newb....so I'm sorry if this may seem like a dumb question. New all around to this :/

[dworthy]

Both use the same pad, so no worries. If you don't know how old the anti-rattle spring clip is, typically 48 months is the length of service for that item.

The rotors will be different diameter, and the calipers carriers as well to fit the larger rotors. The calipers themselves are the same between the CSL and stock M-3.

The only way to be sure is to measure the rotors themselves as ECS Tuning sell cross drill rotors with aluminum hats that look like the CSL/competition package ones.

[MN2K740i]

Both use the same pad, so no worries. If you don't know how old the anti-rattle spring clip is, typically 48 months is the length of service for that item.

The rotors will be different diameter, and the calipers carriers as well to fit the larger rotors. The calipers themselves are the same between the CSL and stock M-3.

The only way to be sure is to measure the rotors themselves as ECS Tuning sell cross drill rotors with aluminum hats that look like the CSL/competition package ones.

So if I'm reading this correctly, then I just have stupidly expensive rotors and a lil larger carrier brackets....

But pads and calipers are the same all around....good deal. I was seriously getting a headache pad shopping because I didn't know lol. Thank God these rotors have plenty of meat left on them...I'll go broke replacing those things good God.... looking at them last night and these rotors appear to be directional, but on the car all the scooping air vanes in the rotor are facing the wrong direction...there's no scooping action at all :/.

Any pad recommendations? I'm replacing both rear calipers for sure, and probably to the right front as well since it's dragging a lil bit, right rear seems to be frozen as does the left rear.

[dworthy]

Humm frozen calipers are a sign of bad brake system maintenance. I would also recommend "while you are at it" replace the rubber hoses with either original ATE line or some nice stainless steel ones. Do you own a brake bleeder? It is much better than using the old 2 man pump and purge method, and the fluid it these cars need to be replaced every 2 years.

I like the OE pads from BMW, as they have a good initial bite, then good linear grip on the rotors. The OE suppliers are Jurid, but as for a aftermarket pads, I would go with Akebono euro. Just make sure you do all 4 with the same as different material will cause funky braking, just be sure to replace the contact or warning sensors too.

But do this before you throw new calipers at the car: Pump the brakes up and then open the bleeder valve on each caliper you suspect to be sticking. If you get fluid to come out and the caliper releases, then it will be the hoses that are bad, not the calipers.

Note: Don't pump the brakes while the bleeders are open!

[MN2K740i]

Humm frozen calipers are a sign of bad brake system maintenance. I would also recommend "while you are at it" replace the rubber hoses with either original ATE line or some nice stainless steel ones. Do you own a brake bleeder? It is much better than using the old 2 man pump and purge method, and the fluid it these cars need to be replaced every 2 years.

I like the OE pads from BMW, as they have a good initial bite, then good linear grip on the rotors. The OE suppliers are Jurid, but as for a aftermarket pads, I would go with Akebono euro. Just make sure you do all 4 with the same as different material will cause funky braking, just be sure to replace the contact or warning sensors too.

But do this before you throw new calipers at the car: Pump the brakes up and then open the bleeder valve on each caliper you suspect to be sticking. If you get fluid to come out and the caliper releases, then it will be the hoses that are bad, not the calipers.

Note: Don't pump the brakes while the bleeders are open!

Good info, I'm surprised to see a recommendation for akebonos as most everyone in the E38 and I think the E39 world appears to hate them because the pedal feedback plus performance seems to suck with akebono....

I usually bleed my cars with DIS, is that still an option on an 03? Usually click the button and crack the bleeder valve until it's clean and air free then off to the next caliper. Since I've been doing that I've never seen the need for investing in a one man bleeder setup. The fluid I can tell hasn't been done in last two years let alone probably a few intervals before that even, so I know it's definitely something that needs to be done. Almost looks like fresh changed motor oil. I suppose any DOT 4 fluid should be good for that project as well?

[MN2K740i]

Took it under your advisement to use the akebono euro pads, so ordered those tonight ($150 on ecs tuning). Went to the local farm and fleet and grabbed a pack of syringes and sucked out all the brake fluid from the reservoir and started flushing the rear calipers out, that was short lived since somewhere along the way I didn't have as much DOT 4 around as I thought I did...so flushing is on hold for the moment. Got the right rear cleared up, and was starting on the left before I ran low enough I didn't want to risk air. Hopefully that's​ going to help.

[dworthy]

Akebono Euro regular pads, not the ceramic type. Do they have about the same amount of dust as OEM pads? Sure, the thing most people complain about is the ceramic pads, as they have to get hot to work properly, plus they tend to eat up the rotors faster as they are a harder pad material. If you were driving a track rat, sure, but for a daily driver, semi-metallic pads work the best.

Some people who do a track/autocross will have 2 sets of rotor/pads, while others will just have pads. Do the ceramic pads grab when hot? Have less fade when hot? You bet, as that is why you will find them in the track world.

[MN2K740i]

Well, crap. They're ceramic lol. I've ran nothing but ceramics for years now and I'm not bothered by them, so I think they'll be alright. This will be the first set of akebono pads I've ever bought tho. I was always told the other way around that the ceramics increased rotor life...but I suppose too by the time I need rotors on this car tho, that I'll have recovered financially from the tires, over all vehicle purchase, and catching up on the maintenance back log that even tho the rotors are will still suck to buy but will be an easier pill to swallow.

I've kinda just went ham on this thing the second I got it up on stands lol.

[dworthy]

That's okay, we all have our moments

I just had new tires, re-powdercoated the rims this winter, and had the VANOS done, so I feel your pain!

[MN2K740i]

I just had new tires, re-powdercoated the rims this winter, and had the VANOS done, so I feel your pain!

That reminds me, I need to get a hold of the stealership and see if I can get a maintenance history on this thing. I know it's where his oil changes were done (to the tune of almost $200 a time) and he did say most big things he took it in there for. So I'm just curious on what all they've done. I found the window sticker for the car and it's the same dealer the car was originally sold to for retail, so I think they're going to have a good bit of info and history on the M3.

[dworthy]

I am sure you meant "Dealership", as the mod here really don't like that term, as most of the employees are good people.

Anyway, just make you take in your registration, and DL for them to confirm. It would also be a good time to get a spare key if you don't have one, for nothing like locking your key in the car.

[dworthy]

And I forgot to add:

A few helpful websites

1) www.realoem.com The part book, just need your last 7 digits
2) www.bmwvin.com Where you go to get the option codes, and see all that came with the car.
3) www.bmwminipartstore.com I like these guys for BMW parts, as they tend to be the least expensive for OE parts.

[MN2K740i]

I am sure you meant "Dealership", as the mod here really don't like that term, as most of the employees are good people.

Anyway, just make you take in your registration, and DL for them to confirm. It would also be a good time to get a spare key if you don't have one, for nothing like locking your key in the car.

The employees are great ppl, at least all that I've met. One I know, not really friends, but not really aquaintance either, is a 20 year master tech at the same dealer this car was originally sold at. He's helped me out a few times in the past for free or close too, I don't blame the employees for the prices of things, just the company overall lol.

I already have those sites bookmarked from working on my other two bimmers lol.....not a noob to BMW just the 3 series/M3 haha.

Plus I have reingold, inpa, any software I've been able to get my hands on lol

[dworthy]

Cool, you just don't know the knowledge level of the folks on here.

Also don't forget to look at the E-46 M3 subforum, as there isn't much traffic, but some good links at the top of the page.

[MN2K740i]

Cool, you just don't know the knowledge level of the folks on here.

Also don't forget to look at the E-46 M3 subforum, as there isn't much traffic, but some good links at the top of the page.

I've been plugging away in there reading, bookmarking, and absorbing ​everything I possibly can in there this past month. Lots of good info down there.

[bluptgm3]

Thank God these rotors have plenty of meat left on them...I'll go broke replacing those things good God.... looking at them last night and these rotors appear to be directional, but on the car all the scooping air vanes in the rotor are facing the wrong direction...there's no scooping action at all :/.

The are designed to "throw" air not "scoop" …



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MN2K740i]

The are designed to "throw" air not "scoop" …



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, wouldn't be the first time I was wrong lol.....so perhaps they are installed correctly then? I guess idk now.

[dworthy]

If the rotor is mounted correctly, you will see the cross-drills sweeping back as you look at the rotor in a clockwise fashion. It the same with the slotted style that I went with last year for replacing all my brakes.

This is what I went with:
ECS Tuning Geo-Slotted rotors
ECS Tuning SS Brake lines
BMW Brake pads
ATE- anti rattle clips X4
ATE- Rubber bushing aka sliders x8
BMW parking brake shoes w/spring kit
ATE contact sensors.

I was torn between the slotted and the cross-drilled with slotted from ECS Tuning. What made my mind was the last set of drilled rotors had hairline crack radiating from the holes. I drive on the Autobahn, so this car see 150mph on a regular basis, and I have to slow down to 60mph for the idiots on the road, so I wear out some brakes!

[MN2K740i]

Here's how they're installed:
Driver's side rear

Part numbers on rear rotors, just so we know which I'm talking about and wanna make sure these are comp rotors or I'm just imagining something....

[dworthy]

Just to add, if the last number is even it will be driver's side, while odd numbers will be passenger side parts.

Those are the Euro rotors, weather they can be call competition package, don't know. But the good news is you have standard size rotors, not the CSL which are 345ish in the front vers. 325mm fronts.

[MN2K740i]

Just to add, if the last number is even it will be driver's side, while odd numbers will be passenger side parts.

Those are the Euro rotors, weather they can be call competition package, don't know. But the good news is you have standard size rotors, not the CSL which are 345ish in the front vers. 325mm fronts.

Well thank God they're a standard euro rotor and not CSL rotors.... doesn't change the fact these are stupidly expensive but I now at least have options to replace them economically....