No doubt about it. at least one of the injectors on my M20 is dead. I've been expecting this for awhile, and recently the car developed a heavy miss and I ended up having the car towed home. I can start it, and it will idle, sometimes almost smoothly, sometimes barely at all. I have good spark about 40lbs fuel pressure, and good fuel flow as far as the injector rail. I have no real idea how many miles are on the injectors, since they were with the engine when I dropped it into my car.
For the record, it's an '89 325i engine in an '86 325.
So, I'm looking at the various possibilities for replacing the injectors, and I like the idea of upgrading to the later style GenIII injectors which are (I believe?) found on M50-equipped cars. The four-hole design makes sense to me, especially if they really do stay clean better than the one-hole design. However, I'm finding 17, 19 and 24lb injectors on good ol' E-bay which promise better power, fuel economy and increased hair growth on my chest, so I'm a tad confused.
The engine is stock, and so is the DME. No high performance chip, nor do I plan to install one. 24lbs seems a bit high unless the extra pressure just helps atomize the fuel better. So, if I keep it stock except for moving to what seems to be an improved injector design, what do I need to know about the different pressure ratings?
The Neighbors Boy
Terrorizing America's highways and byways since 1975.
Daughter's car: 1984 325e coupe
Wife's car: 1986 325 sedan, now featuring an i-spec engine!
My vehicle: 1954 Ford F250
Get the M50 injectors with the part number which ends in 415. Those are the ones for a stock engine. I have a set and they're no real difference performance-wise from the originals (aside from not leaking), but I like the design more for keeping them clean like you said.
Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one?
Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!
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What he said ^^^
Last edited by E30Garage; 05-20-2017 at 08:18 PM.
Interestingly, when I Google 0280150415 I find that Five-O motorsport lists the 0280155885 injector as the GenIII replacement for the 415, and that it works in all the same applications as the 415.
Just for laughs and giggles, here is a set that caught my eye on E-bay. Problem is, the part number the vendor is using does not match the casting number on the injectors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/122503830363...witem=&vxp=mtr
Last edited by Three Dee; 05-20-2017 at 10:59 PM. Reason: More info.
The Neighbors Boy
Terrorizing America's highways and byways since 1975.
Daughter's car: 1984 325e coupe
Wife's car: 1986 325 sedan, now featuring an i-spec engine!
My vehicle: 1954 Ford F250
No, I think a nice, regular tick is a good sign. I used my stethoscope to check mine once I got it to run, and I found #6 had only a weak tick, and #1, when it did anything at all, actually made a "clack!" sound. I don't think it's supposed to do that.
The Neighbors Boy
Terrorizing America's highways and byways since 1975.
Daughter's car: 1984 325e coupe
Wife's car: 1986 325 sedan, now featuring an i-spec engine!
My vehicle: 1954 Ford F250
Hey Elva164! Is that your Lotus-Cortina?
The Neighbors Boy
Terrorizing America's highways and byways since 1975.
Daughter's car: 1984 325e coupe
Wife's car: 1986 325 sedan, now featuring an i-spec engine!
My vehicle: 1954 Ford F250
I just purchased these off EBay for my 1989 325iX.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111848616307...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one?
Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!
Elva Courier build thread here!
I'll do that! One (but only one) of the reasons our daily driver is an E30, and why we got our daugher an E30 as a project car is because we like old cars. I've been a fan of the Lotus-Cortina for a long time.
- - - Updated - - -
Well, folks, after looking things over I'll be getting a set of 415 injectors. Not only does your advice make sense, but they seem to be easier to get than the OEM injectors.
The Neighbors Boy
Terrorizing America's highways and byways since 1975.
Daughter's car: 1984 325e coupe
Wife's car: 1986 325 sedan, now featuring an i-spec engine!
My vehicle: 1954 Ford F250
Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one?
Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!
Elva Courier build thread here!
I would be careful buying off of ebay. When it comes to auto parts I avoid it like the plague, as well as Amazon. Perfect fencing operations for counterfeit parts, unless it's a store front for a known good reputable parts dealer.
What he said! ^^^^
When SSSquid met up and installed,my chip and 19lb injectors (not to mention doing a street tune) he said that the stock ECU can manage up to 17. Beyond that he recommends a chip.
not that he knows anything about the subject
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87 Lachsilber ETA Time Capsule. bought w 125k from 87yo original owner
Cabrio deck lid & hinge struts (w sleeves) now for sale. See the link below for more info
New "made in Europe" seat shocks. PM for details
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ot-Seat-Shocks
The reason why i ask is i did the valves as best i could and triple checked to make that the lobes was at the bottom,But now i heard that it could be a bad injector...And when i did the screw driver trick to here with your ear i here that tick in the middle of the valve cover close to the injectors #6 and no tick around #1 and #4.....
Last edited by rustneversleeps; 05-24-2017 at 01:06 AM.
I got the 280150415 injectors earlier this week. Once warmed up, the car runs GREAT!!!! However, a cold-starting issue is still plaguing me. Sigh.... I think old age (the car's, not mine!) has something to do with it.
I suspect a dying IAC. Cleaning it hasn't helped.
The Neighbors Boy
Terrorizing America's highways and byways since 1975.
Daughter's car: 1984 325e coupe
Wife's car: 1986 325 sedan, now featuring an i-spec engine!
My vehicle: 1954 Ford F250
Broken record, but next step should be a smoke test for vacuum leaks. That can keep you from chasing your tail with other parts.
Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one?
Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!
Elva Courier build thread here!
The Neighbors Boy
Terrorizing America's highways and byways since 1975.
Daughter's car: 1984 325e coupe
Wife's car: 1986 325 sedan, now featuring an i-spec engine!
My vehicle: 1954 Ford F250
I honestly don't know, but it's a simple enough procedure that if you go to an independent guy he may be willing to do it with you there so you can see how it works. It doesn't take very long to set up or perform.
Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one?
Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!
Elva Courier build thread here!
The Neighbors Boy
Terrorizing America's highways and byways since 1975.
Daughter's car: 1984 325e coupe
Wife's car: 1986 325 sedan, now featuring an i-spec engine!
My vehicle: 1954 Ford F250
You really need to use a real smoke machine, which produces persistent oil smoke. While you can build one like the pros use, you'll spend more in parts and fabrication that having a shop run the test.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
That may be, but you can build the machine on a Sunday morning at your house drinking a beer instead of wasting 4 hours waiting at a shop on a Wednesday morning and have to take PTO to do so.
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
Since I've been busy piddling around with other stuff, I haven't even had the chance to look into getting access to a smoke machine, so yesterday afternoon I just did a visual check of every thing. I found the hose connecting the ICV to the intake is getting to be in bad shape, so just to see what would happen I put a clamp on the end that is cracked (YES, this is a temporary fix!!) I also took off the throttle body so I could do a better job of checking the hose that runs to the charcoal canister and remove and check the crankcase vent hose. Those hoses checked out okay, but in the process of doing all this I lost the cap I had put on another vacuum fitting (part of the mess running to the brake booster). I put a temporary plug in that fitting.
Oh, and while checking everything out I discovered I had the engine management temp sensor plug connected to the temp gauge sensor, and vice versa.
Once I got everything back together I fired it up. I still don't like how many times it had to crank before starting, and the idle is still not as good as I would like. I found, by the way, that when I was messing with that fitting that lost the cap, that it ran better than it had been if I simply put my finger over the end of the fitting than it did with the cap, so now I am thinking the cap was too big and not sealing correctly.
So, I'm going to fiddle with it some more. A smoke check is not out of the picture yet. After that, other things that are wearing out!
The Neighbors Boy
Terrorizing America's highways and byways since 1975.
Daughter's car: 1984 325e coupe
Wife's car: 1986 325 sedan, now featuring an i-spec engine!
My vehicle: 1954 Ford F250
Make your own smoke machine, see vid bellow: or more options here
https://youtu.be/2U5kFib1WxE
Last edited by E30Garage; 06-11-2017 at 11:24 PM.
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