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Thread: Just a newbie needing help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Seatac
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    E36 328i

    Just a newbie needing help

    Hi everybody name's Peter and im really new to the bimmer world and currently im working on an e36 328i convertable.
    I have two question... the first one is about the ignition assembly, i got the car from a semi friend and it wasn't running then. He said it only needs the engine wiring harness replace so i got the shop did it but now the car key turns 360 so the shop said get a ignition assembly but they also said get the new one and im confused cause they said look online and look for new ignition assembly but they said not from the bmw servicing. So do i buy off craiglist? Or where do i look for that or any idea how to fix it?
    The second is about t3/t4 turbocharging. A while back ago i was in O'riellys autoparts and we were talking car parts and what i needed on mine and i slipped out my goal of getting my 328i to a max of 500hp cause that will be a good amount for me for now and he suggested t3/t4 but the thing is i can't find that in any of the big turbo companies and i was wondering is there a better way? Im trying to work on the car on a budget. The reason why im trying to find it in big companies is because of the quality and like every parts.. if you get a good quality item for a bigger price it's better than getting a cheap ones which will break constantly.
    Anyways.. what do you guys think of twincharging it? I read a guy trying to twincharge his m3 with t25 and i read about how twice of the turbo would be rich in oil...
    but i was just thinking would it be a good idea or just stick with a single t3/t4?
    Last edited by paumungzkc; 05-20-2017 at 01:19 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    12,519
    My Cars
    36 Cylinders
    Fix your car first, then after getting it to tip top condition, then start your research on turbocharging. And definitely not at O'Reillys. Actually, don't even step foot into that store for anything on your BMW. Same goes for the other similar stores.

    Turbocharging isn't something you can just slap on the car and expect it to work. There are so many things you have to do correctly to get a reliable result, otherwise, every result will end up with an engine rebuild or replacement. No joke.
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 05-20-2017 at 01:34 PM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Seatac
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    E36 328i
    Thanks. Also any idea on ignition assembly?
    Should i just get the whole new one from bmw company or would it better getting a push start and kill switch conversion?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
    Posts
    23,707
    My Cars
    E39M5, E500 4WD
    +1 on everything that 328 Power 04 has just told you.

    You're getting WAY over your head, thinking of turbocharging the car. Almost certainly, your car needs many thousands of dollars worth of basic maintenance and repairs, before you even THINK about blowing into it.

    And when you DO think about blowing into it, think about, oh, at least eight or ten thousand dollars. You can invest that BEFORE, or AFTER you blow up the engine.

    EDIT: Order a new ignition/steering lock housing, four new shear bolts, and a new ignition lock and key, from your local dealership. You'll need your registration and driver's license.
    Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 05-20-2017 at 01:47 PM.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    12,519
    My Cars
    36 Cylinders
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-0-00-DIY-PICS

    start here, lots of other instructions to repair it, before replacing
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Seatac
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    E36 328i
    Thanks 328 Power 04 and bmwdirtracer.
    I tend to way overthink alot and again appreciate your help.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    12,519
    My Cars
    36 Cylinders
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  8. #8
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Grafenwoehr, Germany
    Posts
    14,498
    My Cars
    16 220i 05 325it 05 M3
    I agree with all the above.

    I had to replace all the locks on my 318is about 5 years ago as all the keys were bought from the dealership. Now I would start with the ignition cylinder first, as the tab tends to break off after using an old key that is quite worn out. So get a new key and cylinder, then I would look at the lock housing second.

    Next get the dumb stuff fixed first like the cooling system.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    St. Joseph, Mo.
    Posts
    3,000
    My Cars
    95 m3+, 03 ZHP, Mk4 Tdi
    yup, totally agreed on all of the above.

    why in the world do you need 500hp in a street car?

    if you want 500hp - buy a car with 500hp....

    get the car safe and functioning properly - it'll be plenty fun enough...
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Chicagoland area
    Posts
    4,372
    My Cars
    EXOTICS
    Maybe a nice new 500hp Mustang would satisfy your horsepower craving quite easily.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Prague, Czech Republic, E
    Posts
    856
    My Cars
    11/98 E39 535i V8 M62TU
    The main problems of the ignition lock in E36s are following:

    a) The key or the wafers inside of the ignition tumbler are too worn. If you posted a pic of the key, it would be easier to tell you if the key is your case.

    b) By the time, dirt gets into the ignition tumbler and the key makes it pressed in the end of the hole.

    Principle:
    The ignition tumbler has a feature called in the locksmith terminology (this is a translation from my language as the terminology varies in different languages) a tear protection. This means, if all the wafers in the lock are not set in a proper position (matched in one line with the surface in the tumbler), there is a mechanism which causes the whole assembly to spin in order to protect it from tearing by what we in CZ call a Polish key. The Polish key (in English it is called a different way and I know its name, but for obvious reasons I will not post it publicly) is generally a blank key made of a very tough material, which allows you to spin it inside of any lock of the particular type, causing detoriation of wafers. After they are torn, you can turn the key even with the screwdriver. This is why the whole assembly spins - this is by design.

    As mentioned, there are two main causes. If the key itself or the wafers are worn too much, they do not fit together properly and the wafers are not set in the matched position. There also are ways to repair, we do this quite often. The key can be replaces with a new one cut by CNC machine to the new-state and the ignition tumbler can be disassembled and refurbished if you know how. In Prague, CZ (Europe) we do both of these tasks in about half an hour and the costs are around USD 35 per key or lock.

    The other thing is, that this key for E36 works a little bit different from the other groove-type keys. Its stop line is not in the end tip of the key, but closed to the head which you have in your hand. If there is enough dirt pressed in the ignition tumbler, it can prevent the key from getting to the correct stop position. This means, the "teeth" of the key are not meeting the lock wafers not because one or both of them are too worn, but the position of the key is incorrect. You can try to push the key inside in the lock and twist it to position I, II, Start when pushing. This needs a little bit of practice, but we do this very often just before we are refurbishing these locks.
    HU58 stop.png
    Martin Voigts
    BMW cars indy and locksmith
    1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
    2012 Ford Mondeo

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