Member
I did a compression test and 4/6 of the cylinders got ~130, but 2/6 got ~60, the car doesn't accelerate well, and there appears to be a coolant and oil leak from the head gasket, so I am assuming it is blown. The motor has over 210,000k on it and I am not sure when it was rebuilt last. I already started the procedure. Exhaust is off, spark plug wires are out, fuel rail w/ injectors and fpr are out, airbox w/ intake is out, throttle w/ all connections/hoses are out, distributor is out, I disconnected all the radiator hoses. Right now I am trying to loosen the to large nuts holding in the 2 coolant automatic transmission lines. I can't seem to fit locking pliers on their well enough to hit it with a hammer. Does anyone know the wrench size to loosen the two nuts. Thanks.
Member
Wow, 19 hours later and still no reply. Anyways, I was able to remove the transmission cooler lines with locking pliers and a hammer. I also decided to do an a/c delete in the car, considering I don't need it and it was broken; I removed the condenser, compressor, and all of the lines. I am also considering doing a p/s delete. All of my accessory belts are cracked, so I will replace them. I removed the radiator and fan. I removed the 6 13mm bolts on the crankshaft pulley. I am at the stage of removing the large center bolt that is torqued to 300 ft lbs. What are some practical ways to doing that with only hand tools? I read somewhere that positioning the the torque wrench to lay against a piece of wood on the engine bay and cranking the engine will loosen it.
Member
Sometimes you can wait days before you get a reply...it not a chatty kind of place.....
I think all the bolts are metric and I wish i could help but when it comes to removing engines or the big jobs I wouldn't know what to do..(I need and old parts car to learn on) but give me little stuff that not internal I'm good....
Like most say Bentley Manual is a must have and looking at Automatic transmission section 10 Page 16 ...It tells me the Ft Lb to install it but not the size .Don't forget to plug the hole so no dirt goes in..
Also i think you can google Bentley and get the PDF file on line too.
I wouldn't use a torque wrench to remove a bolts or do you mean a Torx Wrench.....
Last edited by rustneversleeps; 05-19-2017 at 12:50 AM.
Bimmer Buff
Yeah these forums have really slowed down over the years, which can be irritating.
The crank bolt is 22mm and the best way to break it loose is with a breaker bar with a long jack handle as a cheater. If you can get 3 or 4 feet of leverage on it you can break it by hand just fine. Using the starter could work as well, but you may also end up breaking teeth off the flywheel or starter gear.
Member
HELP I NEED A QUICK SIMPLE ANSWER. IS THE CRANKSHAFT 22MM BOLT REGULAR THREADED OR REVERSE THREADED. I bought a corded kobalt impact wrench that has 350ft lbs but it never removed the bolt. What do I do?
⅂!ʈө !ƨ l!ʞө ɐ ʇөlөbµouө
Originally Posted by carmeladam
^ true story
D̶i̶b̶s̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶E̶2̶1̶
Member
Awesome, thanks 323i E30. Is it necessary, to remove the crankshaft bolt to remove the head, change the head gasket, replace the water pump, and replace the timing belt? I thought it was, that is why I was going to remove it, but if I don't need to, I won't. I removed the 6 bolts that held on the crankshaft pulley and was able to remove both timing belt covers without removing the crankshaft bolt.
Member
nope, no need to remove the bolt unless you want to take front crank seal or intermediate shaft front seal off in which case you need to remove the big bolt and the gear to allow the lower front cover to be removed
Member
I have an 88 325i Any idea if that single bolt in the middle would be a torx bolt or a hex bolt when changing the crank shaft seal..
Member
its normally 22mm hex
Member
Let me teach you a valuable skill: CLICK HERE
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
Member
Wrong bolt crankshaft bolt i was referring to and it's 7mm thanks
Member
which bolt is 7mm? i doubt any of them are 7mm anywhere
Member
With the engine out, you can lock the engine by using a strap of metal.
Drill a hole and bolt the strap to the flywheel using a pressure plate bolt.
Then you tie down the other end of the strap to the block using a long bolt, some spacers and a nut.
The torque wrench must never be used to remove fasteners.
Use a breaker bar and the lower piece of your 2.5 T floor jack , or a suitable length of pipe over the breaker bar.
You'll have to figger out how to control the block when applying counter clockwise torque to the crank bolt.
Tip: use gravity.
m
Member
Yup It's under the rotor...It's where the crankshaft sprocket and seal is .Bentley Content #4 ,page 24 it's a 7mm hex....I found it..
Bimmer Buff
That's the camshaft, not the crankshaft. The hex bolts are not in the middle. The middle bolt that holds the gear is a torx bolt. The two hex bolts hold the seal retainer to the head.
Member
Why are you rebuilding the motor when you pretty clearly just have a bad head gasket?
2011 M3 Sedan
2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
1999 323i GTS2
1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is
1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
Hers: 1989 325iX
Member
YA found today it's a torx bolt,So now i have to buy a set of Torx Bolt Sockets.The bentley says 7mm Hex bolt, now i have to more tools just for one Torx bolt,Damm.
Also found out My online parts store set me the wrong Alternator belt and it's to short and 3mm to wide ..Damm again.
Any Idea what size that Torx bolt that is......I wonder if i can get away with using a 10mm socket with stripping it.. Also should mention little different then some if the video's i seen didn't know i had to take two transmission line from the Rad Part 2 tomorrow..
20170527_210930.jpg
Last edited by rustneversleeps; 05-27-2017 at 11:59 PM. Reason: words
Member
you need a torx bit E12 for the camshaft bolt which is M10 thread. the head bolts are E14 despite being M10 as well.....
i had to drill the old cam bolt out last time someone had the bright idea of using a hex socket on torx head, the head was FUBAR. fortunately the head was not on the car
Member
Well thanks for the info man.So do i buy E12 socket or bit or E14 Bit I'm confused cause it looks like a bolt with a Torx head and seeing that i need A Torx socket or am i saying it worng...Maybe I'm confuse with you mentioning the head bolts is that like a different topic ..Sorry for now understanding correctly..
Member
yes, headbolts are unrelated unless you pull the head which is what the OP is doing so though it worth mentioning.
you'll only need the E12 socket for the cambolt.
though it is probably best to by a set with multiple sizes there are a couple other sizes elsewhere on the car
Member
well I started my own thread I have to many question and don't want to cludder this guy thread.
But ya bought the E12 works perfect "thanks Man Digger" took me about 5 pulls before i got it off was scared to strip the Torx bolt or even snap it off then i would have been f**ked..lol.
Is there a way to change that bolt with different head bolt I did try a 3/8 socket and it fit nice and snug but still was scared to strip it.and this Torx bolt looks like it was remove before but could have been me but then again it was leaking real bad so I'm glad i change it even the o-ring was flat a dry now I'm having a hard time removing the old one with out damaging the housing the holds the seal.
Maybe change to a hex bolt like some of the other E30's
Member
yes, it is a M10x35mm coarse thread bolt grade 10.9. a standard hex will have a head that is too large but a grade 10.9 or 12.9 M10x35mm socket head capscrew should work, still wont use a regular socket.
ARP sell a hex bolt that will work with standard 12mm socket but it is $$$ as you need to buy a pack of 5
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