Okay, so tomorrow I'll remove the wheel and take out the RDC and check btw which rear wheel? right or left side? if it's not that then I'm going to have to remove the front panel to see if a cable is getting stuck somewhere. I have a feeling its kind of the same related issue as this person - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PP_ui_Q9Uj0 and in the description, it says "Since February 2013 (2 months after my warranty expired) my 2008 BMW 325i began displaying an annoying intermittent "Electrical System Malfunction" message on my iDrive accompanied by deactivation of the cruise control. Additionally, the AM dial of the radio developed an occasional escalating high-pitched squeal when the brakes were depressed. The recent battery cable recall failed to correct the problem. After several months of researching the issue and consulting several mechanics I took the car into my local BMW technician. After 2 days in the shop I received the bad news. Apparently the vehicle developed an electrical short under the dashboard due to a wire on metal design flaw. The dash has to be completely removed and the wires repaired and replaced at a cost of $1,500+. I have been a committed BMW owner for 15 years and never encountered such a breach in quality and engineering. To say I am upset is an understatement. This design flaw is extremely troubling as it can lead to a host of electronic failures leading to potentially unsafe operation of the vehicle. BMW E90 owners beware." and i also do not have $1,500 to get it fixed because I plan to sell the car once it's fixed rather than getting some ridiculously low offer because of this problem.
First, you don't have to worry about CCA, as for now it's summertime. If you lived on the Arctic Circle, that would be another story.
Go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap multimeter, and search Youtube on how to check you electrical system.
Marvin, I have a multimeter checked the battery, the alternator those two are good also when i hit the dashboard the problem occurs and if i leave it and don't touch it keeps happening like every 10 seconds or so but then when i lift it up the notice on idrive doesn't come up but codes are still there.
Start with the easiest explanation first. RDC is EXTREMLY common on E90 to cause this exact issue.
I have read your posts but Have you tried removing the RDC connector? You do not have to remove the wheel. You only have to remove 2 8mm screws for the rear fender liner behind the right rear wheel. Once unplugged the only light that should remain is your tire pressure light. If you don't see a plastic square tube shaped object with a connector then look on the drivers side/back of the bottom of the fuel tank. Yes outside of the car. Sometimes they stick the RDC there.
If that does not work, Get yourself a T-10 or T-15 socket. Use a tiny ratchet and remove the 2 screws on the ceiling of the instrument cluster.
once out, move the steering wheel all the way down and out so you can rock the cluster out.
unplug the cluster and use a light and CAREFULLY inspect your wires as far back as you can see. Watch for any spots where the wires contact metal dash supports. If it's shorted it will be a VERY small wire cut.
if your very technically inclined...you can check the K-can. It is a 12v ( battery voltage ) bus. Put your black lead on a good ground such as the door striker and your red lead into each can Hi and Low one at a time. The K-can is a twisted pair of wires. I can't remember if it's yellow and black wires or red/green wires. You can't hurt anything by checking these unless you have your leads in more than 1 wire at a time.
you should have above 7 volts all the way up to 13 volts. You will be unable to see the actual communication however as the Kbus is too fast and you'll need access to an oscilloscope to check the messages. This will however tell you if your shorted to ground, power or together.
Last edited by SlackTube; 05-26-2017 at 09:09 PM.
On my car, i can't access any screws in the rear fender liner behind the right rear wheel without removing my rear wheel but i will try that before i open up the dash also anything i should know before disconnecting the idrive and the speedometer is there a chance it would erase the mileage or w/e.
When i was checking the battery voltage and things i found this cable just hanging anyone know what it is?
Your mileage will not be effected and you will not get a manipulation dot unless you try to drive without the cluster.
the picture is the battery disconnect switch harness. Its factory and is supposed to be there without anything plugged in. when your car was shipped from the plant it had a switch that disconnected the battery for transport.
Update:
Today I managed to open everything up in the dashboard and I did not see any cables that were getting sorted so I plugged everything back in firmly and tested it and I don't see those errors except 3 K-CAN errors and an angel light dead error so I believe those K-CAN errors is related to angel eye's bulb which I ordered should get it in couple days and then I will recheck and keep you guys updated.
A halo bulb being out has absolutely nothing to do with K-CAN fault codes.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Experiencing same exact "Electrical malfunction" errors with the whole console intermittently blanking out and loss of radio, speedometer, tach and visual display. Car drives fine during these outages and they are entirely random. Had battery replaced and no change (needed one anyways).
I will check the RDC first -- don't have tools/software yet to do any codes, but sounds like the plan first.
Any updates to this? My brother has a 2010 e61 535i experiencing a similar electrical malfunction issues. I had him unplug the RDC unit and problem went away just like SlackTube suggested. He ordered a used RDC module from ebay and drove the car without issues for about a week. Now it is all back again. Wtf! He installed the used RDC and did not code or program it at all fyi.
Luke
03 330i
Yes it was his KGM body gateway module. Remove glove box and it is right back there. His problem was also cold weather related. When it was really cold out the car would freak out. Once it warmed up it would not act up anymore. So since it got warm, I removed the KGM, put it in the freezer, then plugged it back in and sure enough it freaked out. Put a $35 ebay KGM in there and coded it. Worked like a charm!
Luke
03 330i
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