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Thread: The Project Starts

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Portsmouth, NH
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    215
    My Cars
    1989 325is
    I haven't seen the ABS wires corrode like that either and I've worked on a number of E30's and owned a couple. Should be an easy fix though. I would strongly suggest replacing all the rubber fuel lines on the car too. I've seen them look fine and spray gas like crazy. And if the T in the line between the rail and cold start valve looks brittle replace it.
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  2. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    Since the sensors for the ABS are probably fine and the wires are in excellent shape I will knock/wipe off all the decayed jacket and put heat shrink tubing over it. The connectors are also destroyed so it will be easy to cut them off and slip the tubing over. If I can I will replace with the same connector if not I will substitute a different connector system. Probably an XT90H bullet connector since I have several of those already. They can handle 90-120 amps of current which far exceeds what I need.

    And thanks for the tip on the T-Connector I will defiantly check that. I will be replacing all the gas line while replacing the in-tank pre supply pump and the outside main pump plus the fuel filter under the brake master cylinder. Is there any other filter I need to worry about? I think this will get them all. I’m betting that the rubber gas line has restricted.
    The new gas tank came in a little dinged around the flanges but since there was zero packing material I’m guessing they all come in like this. Doesn’t look like it affected the seal. I’m just going to straighten them out with a dead blow hammer and a piece of 2x4.

    Exhaust gaskets. I’m considering just going ahead and replacing those too but they look like aftermarket gaskets since they have a large shelf extending from them and the Mahle “originals” are just donuts. Can anyone confirm that and explain what the shelf is for? I’m thinking some kind of heat shield and do I need it?

    Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. I'm thinking the tank and lines will be the worst job I'm performing on the restoration! If it isn't let me know as I still have to replace all the seals on the differential.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    1,221
    My Cars
    325ix, 325ix, 540i
    Replacing the tank is a pain, I'd rather do a head swap than a gas tank. One question, does your return tube on the tank have a flare or is it flat?
    If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    Quote Originally Posted by Kershaw View Post
    Replacing the tank is a pain, I'd rather do a head swap than a gas tank. One question, does your return tube on the tank have a flare or is it flat?
    I hate to sound ignorant, but on this I am. I am not sure which of the two metal lines on top of the tank is the return. One goes into the tank and one runs along the top. I assume that the one going into the tank is the return but we all know about assumptions!

    Either way both of the lines on top of the tank at the Pre-Supply pump are round as are the ones on the tank that just arrived. Or am I looking in the wrong place?

    All this and I can't even turn the car over to check the compression until I get the timing belt changed. But the car was running like a top when parked, so I'm just counting on this particular engine's rock solid reputation until I can get a compression test.
    Last edited by clovett; 06-02-2017 at 01:21 PM.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    Ok I'm whipped. I have spent a total of 6 hours trying to figure out how to drop the drive shaft.

    I've done this a dozen times on other cars, with no issue. You simply unbolt it and wiggle it out. It ain't working.

    This is what I've done

    Cut the bolts and dropped the muffler from the middle back in one piece
    Taken the three bolts out from the guibo. I can't get the other three as they have nuts behind them
    Taken the nuts off the bolts where the drive shaft attaches to the differential
    backed off the center nut on the drive shaft so it can seperate into two pieces
    marked the drive shaft to get it back together in the same alignment for balance purposes
    I've tried turning the dampner 60 degrees in every direction and it still won't give me enough room to drop it.

    No matter how I twist and turn it I'm about 1/8 of an inch short.

    Is there some secret handshake thing I'm missing? I would really like to get this thing out. Do I need to drop the back of the transmission and remove all of the exhaust?
    Last edited by clovett; 06-19-2017 at 01:36 PM.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    1,221
    My Cars
    325ix, 325ix, 540i
    Use a deep socket or short extension to get to the other nuts? Once the guibo is out of the way, it'll drop right out. I'm fairly certain the guibo needs to be out before you can remove it. That should be the right procedure, but it's been about 8 years since I've dropped a driveshaft on a rwd e30.

    The return is low on the drivers side forward corner.
    If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    Quote Originally Posted by Kershaw View Post
    Use a deep socket or short extension to get to the other nuts? Once the guibo is out of the way, it'll drop right out. I'm fairly certain the guibo needs to be out before you can remove it. That should be the right procedure, but it's been about 8 years since I've dropped a driveshaft on a rwd e30.

    The return is low on the drivers side forward corner.
    I wish but it won't work that way. From what I have read once you take the "stabilizer housing" off the end of the transmission/driveshaft it's easy. Every Youtube video is missing one so I am guessing they put it on just a few years. I hate to try and cut it off with a grinder because one slip and I buy a driveshaft as it will be out of balance. It's this thing and it prevents you from getting behind it and putting a wrench on the nuts.

    guibo1.jpg

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    Ok I've had enough!!

    I got it off, but you can certainly tell who ever wrote that manual is German because while what they say is correct they don't state the "why" of it so you can interpret the instructions properly.

    The reason you need to rotate the driveshaft 60 degrees in one direction or the other is to get the optimum angle on the center ball joint. Then you take a huge screwdriver or prybar, slip it behind the guibo and pry it forward while rocking the shaft slightly. I have been taking it easy because I didn't want to damage anything but I'm out of options. Reluctantly the shaft bends and it comes out of the car. And yes the old guibo has cracks in it regardless.

    Now back to my regularly scheduled gas tank removal.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    1,221
    My Cars
    325ix, 325ix, 540i
    Good job. I had assumed when you said you got the center nut you meant you had collapsed it fully already. Glad you got it out.
    If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    Dropped the tank and let the garage air out. The rancid old rusty gas fumes were overpowering. I just picked up 10 ft of Gates Barricade Fuel Injection line to replace all the 8 mm line. I ordered the OEM fuel filler hose, main gas hose from the pre-pump to the tank and the rubber boot on the FI manifold from BMW. Should be here on Wednesday. I couldn't believe how much the parts discount was using my BMW club membership. Literally 1/2 price.

    They showed several fuel filters so I wiggled my phone in to see if I could get all or part of the part number, hoping it was an OEM fuel filter. Hey sometimes you get lucky!



    Noticed a leak on the front differential seal. I'll note that for later. After looking I think all the seals need changing on the differential.




    Yep the ABS sensor wiring has the jacket corroded / crumbled off like the two front sensors. Have no idea what caused it I plan on putting something like shrink wrap over it or wrapping it with Scotch electrical tape.



    The new gas tank I bought from Rockauto. It's made by Spectra. It said a "locking ring kit" was included but I found nothing. I don't even know what it was supposed to be. The tank was shipped in an empty cardboard box with no packing materials at all. It just banged around in the box. It has 5 bends on the flanges like this one I have to straighten back out. Poor packing for sure.



    The muffler had been replaced and were the poorest of all the bolts removed. All the OEM bolts were great. I had to cut these off with a lot of patience and a flexible dremel tool.



    The differential bolts turned out to be in great shape but I no longer possess the "ump" to break them free. So I made a 2 ft cheater bar and was advised to soak them with a penetrating oil for a few hours. Even then it wasn't easy.




    Snapped a picture of the hoses and connectors that go to the pre-pump / sending unit in the tank and marked them. As I replace them I will put the same mark back on the replacements. Access to this is under the passenger side rear seat. Gads did that nasty years old rusty gas stink.



    With a little maneuvering the tank drops! To put it back I think it has to be eased up from the drivers side and slightly twisted up and back to clear the filler port. I'm replacing all the hoses but the ventilation hose.



    Looks like an exact swap. The old tank is full of rust. The new pre-pump is on top of the new tank. The only thing I'm reusing is the sending unit which I will be cleaning. The pre-pump has so much rust on it scale was dropping back into the tank!



    Quick shot of the inside of the catalytic converter. Looks much better than I had expected, I think it's going to be fine.


  11. #36
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Mooresville, NC
    Posts
    160
    My Cars
    2017 X5, 1992 325iC
    Great work and keep the pics coming!

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    Ready to install the timing belt and decided to remove the hood since I will be performing so much other work under the hood. I went to remove the top radiator hose and to my suprise after 18 years of sitting it still has fluid in the top hose. I pulled the bottom cowling and removed the radiator drain. It was full!

    I am so glad this car was inside for it's 18 years of sitting.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    I have not posted on this thread as I got sidetracked and because photobucket ate my pictures. I have the motor together now and just need to get the idle working so I can move to the transmission. The problem I have is it will not idle but it runs great. I capped off the vacuum connections to see if it was a leak with no change in issues. If I run the car up to about 1600 - 2000 RPM it holds and runs awesome with no smoke, knocks or misses. This is my ICS setup on the car
    ICS.jpg

    If I unplug the connection to the ICS it will immediately jump to 2000 rpm and hold there perfectly until I cut the car off. There was an attempt by someone unqualified to turn a wrench 4 years ago and I have no idea what they touched or turned on the car. I have taken the ICS off the car and cleaned it with carburetor cleaner. Shaking it I can hear a valve inside move. Adjusting it all the way in or out produces slightly different results.

    Any observations on what to check next?

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    I found a vacuum leak! Now the car will idle roughly. Since the car sat for 18 years I'm considering buying a new fuel pressure regulator as that's about the last thing left in the fuel loop.

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Anderson SC
    Posts
    62
    My Cars
    2000 BMW 528i
    I just subscribed to this thread. Awesome!! I live in Anderson SC and i see you are from Greenville. Glad to see there's another e30 around here that will be up and running/driving soon.
    I went to Augusta,Ga about two weeks ago and picked up an 87 325 coupe. I ordered all new suspension and it arrived yesterday. I also ordered all the bushings, motor mounts, diff mount and trans mount. I had a timing belt kit in the back when I bought it. It has oil leaks everywhere but it's going to be nice when I'm done. I had a little rust here and there but nothing too bad. The guy I got it from changed the fuel pump, radiator, and the ac condenser.
    I'm working on my wife's 528 right now but I'll jump on mine soon and make a thread for it. These cars seem to be a little easier to work on from all the reading I've done. I see mine will need vacuum lines and all sorts of stuff just like you but it's in the fun and building it up and then driving it and enjoying all the hard work. Nice car for sure.
    I'll follow your progress so I can see what I'll be doing to mine as the days pass. Fuel lines looks like something I need to add.
    The only difference between mine and yours is the guy drove this one pretty much everyday about 10 miles or so a day for a little while.

    Jamie

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  16. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    Awesome. Just know that two of the fuel lines are "formed". The one on top of the gas tank and the 90 degree bend at the fuel pump. The one at the main fuel pump has a plastic sleeve in it. So you need to buy those but for all the rest it's just FI rated gas line.
    Last edited by clovett; 03-11-2018 at 05:44 PM.

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Anderson SC
    Posts
    62
    My Cars
    2000 BMW 528i
    Quote Originally Posted by clovett View Post
    Awesome. Just know that two of the fuel lines are "formed". The one on top of the gas tank and the 90 degree bend at the fuel pump. The one at the main fuel pump has a plastic sleeve in it. So you need to buy those but for all the rest it's just FI rated gas line.
    When you say FI related fuel line, it is must rubber gas line? I was assuming it would be all hard line but I haven't looked yet.

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  18. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    The rubber parts of the gas line must be Fuel Injection rated for the higher pressure. Standard gas line won't work properly

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    New fuel regulator came in and I found the time to replace it.
    20180313_151725.jpg
    When installing the new one I found the best way was to start the inside bolt then apply a small amount of pressure with a screwdriver to get the second bolt started. Then tighten down a couple of turns on each side until both tighten down.
    20180313_152251.jpg

    The car runs smoother but still doesn't idle but is closer to a steady idle, if that makes sense. I would imagine after 18 years the diaphragm was weak.

    I still have not replaced the gas return line or the vacuum hose connected to the fuel regulator so I will do that next.

    I really would like to find some idle love. It runs at 2000 RPM like a top

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    It runs! Smooth, well I assume it's smooth I've never heard one of these engines run. So if it doesn't sound right please let me know. The muffler section is completely off the car in the trash can so it only has the header. I don't know why the check engine light is blinking but hey, one thing at a time! IT RUNS

    Last edited by clovett; 03-13-2018 at 07:41 PM.

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
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    My Cars
    1986 325e 2001 330ci
    Ok so I am back on the project, sorry it's taken so long. I pulled the engine last night and will be proceeding on the following

    replace clutch and pressure plate
    front and rear transmission seals
    rebuild front end while engine is out
    replace main front seal in rear transaxle
    clean engine compartment
    replace clutch slave and master cylinder

    Clean the engine compartment
    clean the engine and transmission

    Am I missing anything that I should do while the engine / transmission is out?

    OH and it didn't have a "bitch clip" plus I managed to get the chain on the back of the engine without pulling the intake manifold since I just got that put back together.

    https://photos.app.*******/DFCbojt9AiPd8Cr96

    https://photos.app.*******/FF8wz8X7LTTx2iBv5
    Last edited by clovett; 08-19-2018 at 02:48 PM.

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