School me on welding rear subframe camber adjustments

[bassboy3313]

Hey guys. So, I recently finished up my medium case rear end conversion and put my new 15x9 et-15 wheel on to fill my group 2 kit and I have quite the excessive negative camber going on. I see that garagistics and some others make camber and toe adjustments that get welded onto the trailing arm tabs and I had a question about the camber ones.

How do you know where to weld the slotted tabs in order to give the correct amount of adjustment? I would imagine welding them too low could result in not having enough positive camber adjustment and welding them too high could result in not being able to adjust more negative if I ever wanted/needed to in the future. Where is the happy medium for this?

Thanks in advance!

[audioscience10]

I believe most of the adjusters on the market are stepped and basically butt to the edge of the flange for locations. If it was me I prefer the style with the teeth as opposed to an eccentric washer.

[bassboy3313]

I hear the style with the teeth are a pain in the ass when its time to set it on the alignment rack. But in either case, you still need to choose the exact location to weld them in which is what I am not sure about. Anybody who is running these on their e21 subframe have pics and can chime in?

[m60b30530i]

I am running the Gargistic rear camber adjustment kit. You weld it in and use a dremel to open up the factory control mounting hole.

They have a step by step on the website.

[bassboy3313]

DID you mount the adjustments with the trailing arm mount hole lined up in the middle of the slotted hole, at the bottom, top, higher, lower, etc. THIS is what I am wondering.

[m60b30530i]

I did it as pictured on the how to. I had about -3 degrees of rear camber, Now I have it set to -1.

- - - Updated - - -

http://garagistic.com/index.php?page...ion-kit-how-to

[bassboy3313]

So mounting it in the middle gave you 2 degrees of change. So if I were to mount it at the bottom of the slotted hole, it could potentially give me more adjustment towards positive camber?

[m60b30530i]

So mounting it in the middle gave you 2 degrees of change. So if I were to mount it at the bottom of the slotted hole, it could potentially give me more adjustment towards positive camber?

Sorry I edited my post the toe adjustment was in the middle the camber was set to the bottom. Just like in the how to page.

[bassboy3313]

See they state that putting the hole at the bottom of the slot only gives you 1.25 degrees of positive camber. You state you put the hole in the middle of the slot and got 2 degrees. This is why I am confused since from what I've read, you would of had less than 1.25 degrees by putting it in the middle.

EDIT:

Ah ok that makes sense then. So the 1.25 degrees was enough to take out almost all your negative camber, or do you still have negative camber with your setup?

NVM you still have -1 from what you stated above. I am wondering if that will be enough to make it visually appealing with my group 2 kit.

[m60b30530i]

See they state that putting the hole at the bottom of the slot only gives you 1.25 degrees of positive camber. You state you put the hole in the middle of the slot and got 2 degrees. This is why I am confused since from what I've read, you would of had less than 1.25 degrees by putting it in the middle.

EDIT:

Ah ok that makes sense then. So the 1.25 degrees was enough to take out almost all your negative camber, or do you still have negative camber with your setup?

NVM you still have -1 from what you stated above. I am wondering if that will be enough to make it visually appealing with my group 2 kit.

Sorry about that lol, I can tell you at times it looks like I have no rear camber at all. Fairly flush at -1, this also changes as your ride height changes.

[bassboy3313]

Good to know. I guess I should really figure out a way to measure what my camber is sitting at right now to see how much I really need to take out. Any thoughts on an easy way to measure this?

[audioscience10]

See they state that putting the hole at the bottom of the slot only gives you 1.25 degrees of positive camber. You state you put the hole in the middle of the slot and got 2 degrees. This is why I am confused since from what I've read, you would of had less than 1.25 degrees by putting it in the middle.

EDIT:

Ah ok that makes sense then. So the 1.25 degrees was enough to take out almost all your negative camber, or do you still have negative camber with your setup?

NVM you still have -1 from what you stated above. I am wondering if that will be enough to make it visually appealing with my group 2 kit.

Since you know you need to go positive you could always cheat it and move the "home" location off of the hole toward positive camber.

[m60b30530i]

Good to know. I guess I should really figure out a way to measure what my camber is sitting at right now to see how much I really need to take out. Any thoughts on an easy way to measure this?

I use a digital angle finder and a straight piece of angle iron.

[bassboy3313]

Audio, that's what im thinking too, but don't really want to go further than I really need either.

M60, sounds easy enough. I'll probably just download an angle finder app on my phone and use a piece if angle I have laying around.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[autox320]

Audio, that's what im thinking too, but don't really want to go further than I really need either.

M60, sounds easy enough. I'll probably just download an angle finder app on my phone and use a piece if angle I have laying around.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

I use to do it that way also and it works, but broke down and bought the gauge tool. Having the tool saves lot's of time so was worth every penny.
For accuracy suppose to use a set rim distance since wheel size effects the numbers.

I used a standard short level with bolt pins set both level depth at 463.55mm (18.25") apart to set on my M wheels. Finding angle of a triangle.
First the triangle. The floor as a leg, plus a known distance of edges to the rim, and the distance from the top of the rim to make it equal to the floor. Those are the three sides. inverse tan(mm measured distance / mm level pin length ) = deg camber
I measured with the calipers until the bubble was level. I setup my level bubble to be touching the edge of the line for level to be more accurate This happened at 13mm.
inverse tan(13mm/463.55mm) = 1.6 degrees negative looked like this


Phone app does this for you now days I guess. Just get a bubble tool if find yourself doing it a lot My peeve with digital is always needs a battery when I use it.

[wally509]

pm sent

[Peter.M]

I think that in this case it is very important to first measure the angle and the distance from the edges to the rim and the distance from the top of the rim so that it is equal to the floor, and for this I usually take calipers and already straighten out the bubbles. I also share, but still use welding in some cases, it doesn’t do much harm, because if the welder is experienced, then it will not cause injury to your car. I usually use the services of these guys prowelderguide.com. Last year they helped me a lot, and now my baby rides without problems.