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Thread: Camshaft M10B16

  1. #1
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    Camshaft M10B16

    Hello, I've been lurking this forum for a while, I own a 316 e21 and now I just rebuilt the engine.
    Everything is fine except the camshaft, due to a clogged oil channel I have to replace it.
    I tried searching on my own but there is a lot of confusion on this topic so, which camshafts (stock and/or aftermarket) fit inside a stock m10b16?
    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnharrison View Post
    Hello, I've been lurking this forum for a while, I own a 316 e21 and now I just rebuilt the engine.
    Everything is fine except the camshaft, due to a clogged oil channel I have to replace it.
    I tried searching on my own but there is a lot of confusion on this topic so, which camshafts (stock and/or aftermarket) fit inside a stock m10b16?
    Thanks in advance!
    I'm almost certain you want a 2.0L camshaft also found in the 2002 BMW. Should be the same as the 1600. Distributor turns clockwise. If can't find one online or here try the faq forum https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/
    88 M3
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    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  3. #3
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    Thank you, so basically every clockwise m10 cam is equal?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnharrison View Post
    Thank you, so basically every clockwise m10 cam is equal?
    I was poking around, it seems that every M10 engine with a CW rotation distributor (engines that came with points ignition) use the same camshaft part number. *Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

    You can also use the realoem.com to verify 'original' part numbers (don't use the 'superseded' part #s because I noticed some inconsistencies).
    Last edited by epmedia; 05-13-2017 at 01:30 AM.
    Tbd

  5. #5
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    Thanks, it seems I found a guy from Germany selling the right one!
    Somebody told me to replace the cam in a m10 you have to remove the head, is this true or there is any trick to do the job in a better way?

  6. #6
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    You can make a tool that presses down on all the rocker arms simultaneously in order to slide the cam out. Problem is, you'd need to remove the radiator and all that in order to make room for the cam to come out the front of engine.
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bassboy3313 View Post
    You can make a tool that presses down on all the rocker arms simultaneously in order to slide the cam out. Problem is, you'd need to remove the radiator and all that in order to make room for the cam to come out the front of engine.
    Guys you reply really fast, thanks.
    The radiator is faster amd easier to remove, any tip on the tool to make?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnharrison View Post
    Guys you reply really fast, thanks.
    The radiator is faster amd easier to remove, any tip on the tool to make?

    If you use a tool to do it also remember to put the engine past TDC say for instance turn to TDC and another quarter or half turn past. Verify with the plugs out if need so that all pistons are part way down in the bores.


    I usually just pull the head and use my new sock method lol
    88 M3
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    91 318i
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  9. #9
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    Cool

    There are universal valve spring compressors that allow compressing the spring with the cylinder head on the car,then fish out the retainers one by one, you'd have to stop the valve from dropping inside the motor cylinder hole, maybe a plastic piece size of a straw inserted thru the spark plug hole or tie it off with a string so they stay on top of the valve guide seal. Its much easier to take the head off then remove the valves and then the cam, I made a tool to compress the spring one by one with the cylinder head off, its not difficult.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 05-15-2017 at 10:23 AM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnharrison View Post
    Guys you reply really fast, thanks.
    The radiator is faster amd easier to remove, any tip on the tool to make?
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...t-removal-tool
    1999 Z3 Coupe 2.8L


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  11. #11
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    Ok, I had time for her and managed to remove the old cam and putting in place the new one rotating and sliding it out without pulling the head.
    Everything seems fine and the car feels better.

    My only concern is with valves adjustment, I hear the engine knocking (really only a bit, just enough to distinguish it) when hot but not when cold, is it normal that the noise is more increasing the temperature or should I redo the adjustment? Opinions?

    OT: how do I attach pictures?

  12. #12
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    Is an engine knock or a valve tick? What clearance did you adjust your valves to?


  13. #13
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    Definitely valves, it's too "soft" and it comes from above, plus when cold it's quieter, now I can't remember the value but it was the manual one (if I'm right 0.20), the cam is from a 1602.

  14. #14
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    May I ask you to pm me or post if possible an audio/video of a normal sound at idle in working temperature, I don't want to imagine problems being too paranoid.

    I add the oil pump is new, gaskets and bushings too, the pistons and rings were fine and everything has been cleaned and reassembled accurately, It works fine, doesn't overheat in traffic nor at 140kmh, so except the sound there aren't any other symptoms.

  15. #15
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    It was just a faulty spark plug, replaced them and the leads and now everything works flawlessly!

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