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Thread: BMW X3 E83 Fuel Pump Replacement

  1. #1
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    BMW X3 E83 Fuel Pump Replacement

    Hi

    Has anyone attempted to service their X3's fuel pump? I cant seem to find any guides online. I had a go on Sunday, but couldnt get the pump housing out

    I would appreciate any help/advice

    M

  2. #2
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    If you have access to the E83 Bentley Service Manual, it has detailed instructions with pictures.
    Opening the tank cap is similar to other BMWs (E39, E46). You need a spanner tool (pipe wrench can awkwardly be used as one) for that.
    Then the instructions say to start with separating the electrical connectors inside the tank, and detach hoses (fuel line connector aside from the pump, and darker suction-jet line that is pulled out from the white plastic pump holder. Finally, there is a retaining lug next to where the suction-jet line was in the pump holder. By pressing it, the white plastic holder can be pulled out with the pump.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for that! I got all the way in at the weekend, but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to remove the pump holder. I'll have another go this weekend.

    Working is making me time poor! I have things to do - doesn't me employer realise this?!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkJWT View Post
    Thanks for that! I got all the way in at the weekend, but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to remove the pump holder. I'll have another go this weekend.

    Working is making me time poor! I have things to do - doesn't me employer realise this?!
    You'll get it done! It seems like the retaining clip is not so obvious in the holder but it is there.

    When I did this on my E39, the biggest hassle was to get the tank lid seal back in place just right so that the tank won't leak from the top. Make sure you test properly for leaks after you are done.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the advice - i'll post a reply once I've done it to detail any problems for future reference

  6. #6
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    Completed the task this evening, write up to follow

  7. #7
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    IMG_3624.jpg

    So, to get here, I have removed my back seat (it pulls up easily, as its just clipped on at the front). I have removed the 10mm screws from the cover, and I have removed the electrical harness, the fuel line (blue pipe - make sure you depressurise the line by unscrewing the fuel cap, and have a bowl handy to catch any excess fuel - there won't be a lot) and the vent hose - push the clips together and pull, may need so assistance with a flat head screw drive to prize free.

    The next step is to release screw cap with special tool 16 1 020 and remove service cap, but I used a rubber mallet and a screw driver to coax it free

    IMG_3625.jpg

    Remove the fuel line (the brown pipe) and the electrical socket. I have removed the vent pipe in this picture

    2010-08-03_191554_10.jpg

    Now remove the line from the filter and the line next to it.

    IMG_3626.jpg

    The next step is to pull the chamber with the pump in out of the tank. The two lugs at the bottom of this picture need to be pressed in and the chamber will lift out with a bit of effort.

    IMG_3629.jpgThe old strainer, vs the new strainer

    Now reassemble the new pump and the new strainer etc and follow the instructions in reverse

    The whole job took me (utter novice) about an hour.

    The car runs much better, but I'm still getting P0171 & 174! Ive replaced MAF sensor, lower intake boot, CCV hoses and now fuel pump

    Where should I look next? Its driving me mad!

  8. #8
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    Nice write-up and pictures!
    After all the parts you have replaced, I would keep chasing for a vacuum leak. You could get a smoke test done, or try diagnosing yourself with an unlit butane torch perhaps? Or, if you want to keep replacing parts, my next step would be to pull the intake manifold off and replace the gaskets there.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Vinyl

    Im not so sure its a vacuum leak, and heres why....

    My LTFT on both banks are reading between +25% to +30% even at idle

    My STFT are both around 0% +/- 1% at idle

    If it was a vacuum leak, when i increased the throttle, the LTFT should tend towards 0, but it doesn't it drops 1 or 2 %
    Im guessing a leak of this size would be pretty evident! I've changed the lower air intake boot, the MAF and the CCV hoses, so that rules out the major area's

    This makes me think its a fuel delivery problem, so I maybe should have changed the fuel filter while I was in there.

    Today Im gonna test the fuel pressure, to confirm or rule out this.

    The car is running as sweet as a nut right now, but after the fuel pump change it threw 171 & 174 as 'pending'. Im wondering if this was due to the new part 'bedding in', but we'll see

  10. #10
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    I think your theory is good. I would expect LTFT go down more with increasing revs, unless it is a huge leak. The only reason I would not suspect a fuel pressure or delivery issue is that those would typically cause noticable drivability, problems starting, or bogging down symptoms that you are not telling about.
    How old are your O2 sensors? Your fuel trim issue could be caused by false readings. Are the O2 voltages changing at all?
    Last edited by vinyldude; 05-13-2017 at 03:35 PM.

  11. #11
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    So what did you actually do when you serviced your fuel pump other than a new strainer? I was chasing the same codes as you, p0171 & p0174, and what I found in research other than the CCV system, MAF, intake boot or intake leaks to cause these codes, are a fuel cap failure, and a restricted fuel filter. I changed both the gas cap and fuel filter, (int the tank), and only one of the codes returned,(don't remember which). Later, I was changing my oil and determined that I had an oil leak coming from where the dipstick tube goes into the block. I installed a new o-ring on the dipstick tube, (not an easy job by the way), and the code went away. I can only surmise that since the dipstick tube is connected to the CCV system, that there was an air leak at the o-ring that was causing the code. It's probably been a year now and I'm code free with 172,000 miles.
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  12. #12
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    Hi 91e

    When I serviced the fuel pump I replaced the old one and the pipes and the strainer. In hindsight it was foolish not to replace the fuel filter too, but I'll do that next weekend. Its interesting that you mention an oil leak - Im certain I have one too, so the dip stick o ring will be the first place I look. I asked a guy at an indy to have a look at the dip stick, but he said it was metal and went into the engine block - is this bad info?

    My fuel cap seems to be fine - should I inspect for cracks? or air leaks? Im guessing if I unscrew it, I should hear a 'sigh' as the pressure is released (meaning its fine)

    My o2 sensors are giving the following voltage readings at idle...

    Bank 1 Sensor 1 = 0.345v
    Bank 1 Sensor 2 = 0.700v

    Bank 2 Sensor 1 = 0.115v
    Bank 2 Sensor 2 = 0.735v

    My MAF is reading 3.14g/s (31 ft above sea level)

    What is the forums thoughts on Terracleaning? Would that clean my injectors well?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Hi Vinyl...

    When I drive, my revs appear to be hunting or surging, in that when i slow down my revs will go from around 1k rpm to around 1.5k - 2k rpm
    Sometimes when I try to accelerate, there is a lag before the revs jump up to provide power

    Idling is around 600 -700 rpm, but will creep to around 1.2k rpm before settling

    The o2 sensor do change and I've posted the voltages in my reply to 91e

  13. #13
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    Hmmm, this is an interesting find...

    Just been out to check my fuel cap and this is what I found

    IMG_3654.jpg

    IMG_3655.jpg

    It seems to be damaged, in that a clip that should hold the metal ring inside isn't there, probably causing a poor seal, and therefore not holding pressure efficiently!

    Time for a new one - if this solves the problems I'll be ecstatic!

  14. #14
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    Good luck with the fuel cap....sometimes it can be the simple things that drive you crazy.
    The dipstick tube inserts into the block for several inches. There is an o-ring that goes on the tube that slides up to a little flange that seals the tube to the block. There's a bolt on a bracket attached to the tube that you access from the underside that locks the tube into place.
    Current Garage:
    91 e34 M5 - spoiled & demanding 27 y/o -glanzshwarz
    91 850i/6 -another spoiled & demanding 27 y/o- schwarz-gone but never forgotten
    06 325i - undeserving, spoiled & demanding 27 y/o daughter's DD-hellrot
    03 MINI Cooper S JCW -spoiled & demanding, yet deserving wife's DD - Chili/Panther
    05 X3 3.0i -family workhorse - diamond schwarz
    12 X5 3.5d - torque monster - space gray metallic
    86 GMC Cabellero - Old Faithful 32 y/o DD BMW Support Vehicle
    08 Cub Cadet 19HP 46" hydrostatic- yard vehicle
    88 Schwinn Sierra - 1WD Off Road Vehicle
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  15. #15
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    Ive replaced the cap with an emergency one, and my trim have improved a little - still not getting a 'sigh' when i open the cap though

    Gonna order a BMW one today

  16. #16
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    Even if your pre-cat O2s show some life, I would replace them if you think those are say more than 8 year old, if the problem did not go away. Would be good to eliminate the chance of them being biased and the system getting false readings. Just a thought.

  17. #17
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    I think that's a good idea, I want to eliminate all the possible causes

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by vinyldude View Post
    Even if your pre-cat O2s show some life, I would replace them if you think those are say more than 8 year old, if the problem did not go away. Would be good to eliminate the chance of them being biased and the system getting false readings. Just a thought.
    Not saying that this couldn't be the problem, but my pre & post cat o2 sensors are original making them 12 years old with 172,000 miles. I had a full diagnostic about 2 months ago and all the sensors were within spec.
    Current Garage:
    91 e34 M5 - spoiled & demanding 27 y/o -glanzshwarz
    91 850i/6 -another spoiled & demanding 27 y/o- schwarz-gone but never forgotten
    06 325i - undeserving, spoiled & demanding 27 y/o daughter's DD-hellrot
    03 MINI Cooper S JCW -spoiled & demanding, yet deserving wife's DD - Chili/Panther
    05 X3 3.0i -family workhorse - diamond schwarz
    12 X5 3.5d - torque monster - space gray metallic
    86 GMC Cabellero - Old Faithful 32 y/o DD BMW Support Vehicle
    08 Cub Cadet 19HP 46" hydrostatic- yard vehicle
    88 Schwinn Sierra - 1WD Off Road Vehicle
    e31 & OHC BMW CCA #385540

  19. #19
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    Update:

    Had a Terraclean done yesterday, and the car is running great. The cat and the o2 sensors are performing as they should (shop tested them) my fuel pressure is 51psi, which is bang on, so the new fuel pump and filter are ok

    Im guessing my injectors were at fault, but are now clean

    I've driven the car less than 10 miles since, and I noted the fuel trims (STFT & LTFT) were all between 11% and 15% at idle (much better than before)

    So my question is:

    Do I need to drive my car further to 'recalibrate' the trims or do I still have a problem?

  20. #20
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    MarkJWT,

    Thanks a ton for the nice writeup and pictures. I am in the process of trying to pull the fuel pump assembly (e.g. similar to your penultimate image) from the fuel tank through the associated service port on my 2005 X3 2.5i and can't seem to find the lugs/tabs you refer to to press in to get the thing to release. I found the tabs that permit release of the *interior* mounted components (e.g. at roughly the 7:00 position in your 2nd-to-last image, just beneath the brown plastic line), but getting that entire assembly out of the tank is posing me some difficulties! If you (or anyone else) could provide some insight, it'd be much appreciated!

    Thanks,

    Zack

    Edit: Nevermind! I'm fighting a head cold at the moment and was being foolish... there is a push tab behind the large black line that faces the rear of the vehicle...push the tab back and the assembly lifts right out!
    Last edited by ZDPBMW; 09-23-2017 at 12:13 PM.

  21. #21
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    What is the small thin black line beside the supply line on the top of the pump and feeding into the housing? My new pump doesn't have a connection for it 😟

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkJWT View Post
    IMG_3624.jpg

    So, to get here, I have removed my back seat (it pulls up easily, as its just clipped on at the front). I have removed the 10mm screws from the cover, and I have removed the electrical harness, the fuel line (blue pipe - make sure you depressurise the line by unscrewing the fuel cap, and have a bowl handy to catch any excess fuel - there won't be a lot) and the vent hose - push the clips together and pull, may need so assistance with a flat head screw drive to prize free.

    The next step is to release screw cap with special tool 16 1 020 and remove service cap, but I used a rubber mallet and a screw driver to coax it free

    IMG_3625.jpg

    Remove the fuel line (the brown pipe) and the electrical socket. I have removed the vent pipe in this picture

    2010-08-03_191554_10.jpg

    Now remove the line from the filter and the line next to it.

    IMG_3626.jpg

    The next step is to pull the chamber with the pump in out of the tank. The two lugs at the bottom of this picture need to be pressed in and the chamber will lift out with a bit of effort.

    IMG_3629.jpgThe old strainer, vs the new strainer

    Now reassemble the new pump and the new strainer etc and follow the instructions in reverse

    The whole job took me (utter novice) about an hour.

    The car runs much better, but I'm still getting P0171 & 174! Ive replaced MAF sensor, lower intake boot, CCV hoses and now fuel pump

    Where should I look next? Its driving me mad!
    MarkJWT / Vinyldude,

    I have looked repeatedly for the "Lugs" you mention to release the fuel pump assembly from the bottom of the fuel tank. Could you please give a more detailed explanation of where the lugs or tabs are and how I would release them. My X3 has been down for a month now while I have tried to find information on this step.
    Last edited by bcolins; 08-07-2018 at 03:04 PM.
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  23. #23
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    See the last picture here in these BMW repair instructions.

    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...l-pump/HdHov08

  24. #24
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    Mark, I’m attempting to follow your guide on my 2007 E83. When it comes to removing the blue fuel line in step 1, I’m not sure if the blue hose itself should come off the black plastic elbow, or if the entire elbow disconnects from the white circular adapter somehow. The blue fuel line appears to be heat-shrunk to the elbow, so I’m reluctant to pry it off. So if it’s the black plastic elbow that needs to be removed, what’s the trick to remove? I don’t see anything obvious to twist or unscrew, but I can feel that the elbow can rotate at the joint with the adapter, which leads me to believe it’s the elbow that needs to be removed... thanks for your help!

  25. #25
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    how do you get the clips that hold the pump in the fuel tank to release on a x3 2007

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