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Thread: Betty the Beater- Just a beginner drift thread

  1. #26
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    I'm definitely going to, hopefully sooner rather than later, but it's dependent on the money situation. I need to put a few grand into the 335i sometime soon too..... I'm going to start getting quotes for a mobile welder to come through and weld te plates in my garage, have to figure that out.

    Yea, I did take the trans off, the driveshaft is super simple compared to that. It's still time spent under a car on damn jack stands though, with isn't the most pleasant experience! I out to just run the cables asap, and have an ebrake that licks the wheels. Crazy that I've got a huge extension on it, with new pads, and it doesn't lock. I was REALLY hoping new pads would do it!
    Last edited by awp235; 06-30-2017 at 11:23 AM.

  2. #27
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    This is what I did and plan on doing to my next chassis as well. The stuff is a bit pricey and needs to be used exactly as per the instructions but after 1.5 years behind 400hp and some hard hits its looking great under there.

    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=247262

  3. #28
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    My hesitation on epoxy is that it can't be welded after the fact- meaning if anything soed happen, I'd have to cut it out, and then weld new pieces in. Iw ill give you post a read through and keep it under consideration!

  4. #29
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    Yeah that's true. This is a third option. I plan on doing this to all my cars soon, as soon as I feel like spening $450 on foam lol

    http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=939044

  5. #30
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    For the purpose of racing, I think I'd going to reinforce it with weld in plates, and then the CMP auto brace, and then sometime in the future, tire it a cage that goes in.

  6. #31
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    So, I had my second drift day. Car was having some issues, and my best run didn't get recorded. This is probably my second best run, even though I spun on the last turn. I'll make a post with my issues another time. At least I'm startig to feel out the car, and being able to start to hold lines!

    Video

  7. #32
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    Jan 2015
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    1994 325is
    What issues?
    looks like you're getting the hang of things lol. Keep up the clutch kicks and she'll stay sideways more.

  8. #33
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    Critique (if you're looking for one): You're too "handsy" on the wheel. You spun because you hung onto the wheel too long. Notice and good steering wheel and the hand work is almost like dancing with the wheel. Yours looks like someone losing their virginity. Which, you might be :-D

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by xMatthew View Post
    What issues?
    looks like you're getting the hang of things lol. Keep up the clutch kicks and she'll stay sideways more.
    Turns out my alternator was cutting out about 4k rpm, meaning my car would start to break up and lose ignition/ all power mid slide. That day was my first time experimenting with clutch kicks, I'm definitely going to start using them more. I think my subframe mounts are screwed already... so whatever. I'll fix it soon.

    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Critique (if you're looking for one): You're too "handsy" on the wheel. You spun because you hung onto the wheel too long. Notice and good steering wheel and the hand work is almost like dancing with the wheel. Yours looks like someone losing their virginity. Which, you might be :-D
    I'm always looking for critique on technique and skill! So thank you! I do notice that I am super touchy with the wheel, while people that are much smoother seem to put much less input in. I'll definitely try to keep from manhandling it too much in the future. I think if I had let the wheel countersteer itself, and let it spin rather than forcing it only a little opposite, I might've had the monji. Am I correct?
    I'm totally losing my drifting virginity. I guess it was the first time around, but I've clearly got some loosening up to do...

    Small update- I actually spent some time replacing my alternator, and stripping weight out of the car when I got back from my Alaska cruise this weekend. Missed my car so much! I weighed what I took out to be about 80 lbs, including the seat back and all the sound deadening I got out. I already took out the seat base, which weighed a fair amount too. Back seats, and trunk are all defoamed, but I need to work at the really hard deadening foam base layer with some dry ice or a chisel. I can definitely feel the difference the weight made already, just busting around on the street. Next is taking off the rear deck, and stripping the top of the trunk and the trunk lid. My goal is to retain factory audio, AC, heat.... and everything else can go. Keeping the full dash for now, until it gets caged. That's pretty far off, I'm nowhere near the skill required to need a cage.

    strip1.jpgsttrip2.jpg
    Last edited by awp235; 07-24-2017 at 03:12 PM.

  10. #35
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    Basically the same point I am at with stripping out the interior! You can take out the carpet in the back half of the car. It splits under the front seats and you can take more sound deadening off.
    IG: allen_union

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by abest521 View Post
    Basically the same point I am at with stripping out the interior! You can take out the carpet in the back half of the car. It splits under the front seats and you can take more sound deadening off.
    I'm guessing you pulled thh front seats in order to do this? How far into the seat does it split? I feel the weight difference already, especially in the rain....

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by awp235 View Post
    I'm guessing you pulled thh front seats in order to do this? How far into the seat does it split? I feel the weight difference already, especially in the rain....
    Yeah I pulled the front seats cuz I bought bucket seats. The stock seats area incredibly heavy and will get rid of a lot of weight in the middle of the car. It splits in the middle of the front seats so when you bolt your seats back down the front 2 bolts hold the carpet down.
    IG: allen_union

  13. #38
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    What buckets did you buy?

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by awp235 View Post
    What buckets did you buy?
    I found some cheap used ebay ones on craigslist local to me and then bought brackets from DNA motoring and drilled my own holes to make the seats work.
    IG: allen_union

  15. #40
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    Been meaning to update the thread- I stripped the rear deck off, and took out all the sound deadening under it. My goal is to keep all the speakers while I still daily the car, so I put the deck back on, with nothing under it to mount the speakers in their stock location still. I also got some 6 year old Cobra reclining racing seats, which are freaking amazing in terms of lightness, and comfort. They hold me fantastically still while sliding/ cornering hard, too! Next event is next sunday, another skidpad day at RSD. Looking forward to it, and I'll finally learn to use the tire machines. Picking up a single pair of crappy tires to drift on, and I figure I'll run 2 pairs that I've already drifted until they blow, and then swap on the new fresh set to one set of wheels. Been calling the shops I'm on good terms with, asking about take off tires in my sizes. Can never be too cheap with tires! Pictures to come og the things I did. I had to fab up my own mounts for the seats, I used the stock forward-backwards sliders and made mounts to mount the seats to them. One day I'll splurge on light manual sliders, but the money isn't there right now.

    As a side note, I'm not sure if I mentioned the electrical issues I was having my last drift day. I think the cutting out has been solved by the installation of a new alternator. that, and the new battery for my 335i really cut into the "drift event" fund. While doing donuts and general hoonery, I did notice a very apparent ticking from the engine after beating on it. I'm a little worried about that, so I'll monitor it as I'm running the car hard during the next drift day. I do daily the car, and it doesn't ever happen that I've noticed while dailying it. I don't give the car a break, either, so if it doesn't pop up again then I'm not going to be too worried.
    Last edited by awp235; 08-12-2017 at 07:11 PM.

  16. #41
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    Not sure if youre planning on heading to Clubloose for freedom moves but if everything lines up I should be there! I would like to make it out to RSD for the skidpad on the 17th but im nervous about a 2.5 hour drive with a 3.91 so i may try and find a trailer to make it out there. Good to see progress being made!

  17. #42
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    Hey, I might try to come out to Club Loose to spectate, no funds to run this weekend (Also, no C class I think. I've never drifted there and am certainly not B class!)
    Where abouts are you located? come out to RSD! A Great bunch of guys. Part of the reason I want to pop into Club Loose is to have one of their guys pop into my car and see if it would pass their tech, as I've heard is much more strict. My next event will probably be a Club Loose event, If I don't break anything I'm going to try to do Saturday of Fall Moves.

  18. #43
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    Update- Since I do drive this as my daily a lot, it's necessary for me to see at night. Being that the headlight adjustment seems to be broken, and they point at the ground, rather than ahead, I installed a lightbar. $25 on Amazon prime, very worth it. I'm a little concerned about the vent that it mostly blocks off, so I might cut off part of the ducts that direct the air from those side vents to the brakes, so some of that air is available for cooling. Car'stemp gauge has ever budged on me while drifting, and the breaking up/ loss of power I felt last drift event were definitely from my overheating/ crapping out alternator. If this effect the cooling enough that I notice it, I'll make moces on figuring out how to alleviate the heat sink. I'm thinking a hole saw to the drip tray in the very front of it would help a bit. Also considering removing the drip tray altogether, but I like to have it on there in case I do drip a little of any fluid, so it prevents it from getting on the track. The lightbar is a straight 22", 120W Nilight bar. It's not as bright as a super high quality one, but it triples the light output on the car. I don't use it when there is any traffic around, but for country roads and deer spotting, it words absolutely wonderfully. Worth every cent! lightbar.jpg
    I also picked up some Fuzion HRi tires with close to full tread, and some full tread used Conti DWS's. I'm currently using the autogrip P308's on the front as steers, for street and sliding. I'm under the impression these tires suck, and that the DWS's should at least be an improvement over them.

  19. #44
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    Making moves!! I snagged a brand new, in the box and packaging still set of BC Racing BR coilovers for the e46. Got them for $500, and they are brand new! I'm beyond excited, the car rides like a dream. Swapped it on Saturday in my garage, and was surprised at how easy swapping the whole suspension was. Compared to the 218k mile old original suspension on the car, with broken coils and struts that didn't have any pressure left in them, this car is brand new now! I don't have it very low at all right now, I'm going to put it a good amount lower when I get my front strut tower reinforcement plates this week. This is how the car sits right now:
    IMG_3813.jpgIMG_3818.jpg

    It's definitely looking better, and I can't reiterate how much of an improvement over the original 2001 bmw suspension components still on the car. Looking forward to going lower, and more so I'm looking forward to this weekend's event with RSD to see how they feel sliding!

  20. #45
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    e36 325ic
    im in freehold, so only like 20 minutes from etown, I ended up driving, they had c class for both days

    I had so much fun at freedom moves im trying to line up a trailer to get out to rsd for the 17th so i may be there, if not I might come just to spectate!

  21. #46
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    Darn, I'm bummed that I wasnt able to go if they did run C class. NExt event I'll be there as long as I have tires for it. Hopefully you make it, driving or not! If not, feel free to boot one of my buddies out of my passenger seat and hop in for the rides. Hoping all goes smoothly on the 17th in regards to my car. Bring your helmet to RSD, on skidpad days they're super chill and you can basically hop in anyone's car, any class, whenever you want as long as you ask the driver nicely. Always a few sponsored cars that don't want the liability of a passenger, but for the most part you can ride along in any nasty car you want to!

  22. #47
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    Well, a quick update to this. Haven't updated in a while.
    Had my right rear jacking point fail on me somewhat recently. I've arranged with a good friend's friend who's a career welder for him to come out mid march, I'm going to take a day off work and drop the entire rear subframe, plate the rear, weld dual caliper brackets, and get the welder's opinion on cutting out the rusted out portion of the panel and welding in a new jack support. It's annoying having to worry about it punching further through, and finding ways to distribute the load on the jack stand. I'd rather just cut it out and figure out what metal is even left to support a replacement.
    I'll think I'll be doing Poly subframe bushings, get some new trailing arm bushings, and just try to freshen up everything about the rear of the car. Flush the diff fluid, since I haven't since it was welded, and flush the tranny too.

    I'll be having my friend Ugo drive down from michigan to do mostly the same work on his e36, I have a heated 2 car garage, and we're going to try to bang everything on both cars out in one weekend. Going to try to locate my slow coolant leak too, one of the hoses under the intake manifold is seeping some.
    Just got a square set of style 162's for my 335, so the old set of 162's will become the street set for the drifter. Thinking about running reverse staggered, so I don't have 255 sticky summer tires on the rear of the welded diff. Might look weird, but it should be fun!

  23. #48
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    I believe you can look up the part on realoem to replace the jack point. It has the factory jack insert as well as the lower support for an actual jack. I would reconstruct the rest and put that in so you can maintain factory support.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  24. #49
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    I found the support piece on realoem, but can't see how it attaches to everything on the diagram. I'll figure it out from the other side.

  25. #50
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    Club Loose's clinic was delayed from last weekend to this weekend, which sadly means I can't make it. I'm going to be spending the weekend dropping the subframe on my e46 and a friend's e36, doing weld in plates on both cars, and then subframe bushings/ RCAB and I'm doing a dual caliper setup on mine. Grabbed a Sikky with a discount in return for running their sticker at least one season. Sweet!
    His is getting the same as mine, minus the dual caliper, along with BC coils, E46 arms and appropriate front end stuff. Both these cars are really going to need an alignment! I actually never aligned mine after I put on the BC's,Looking forward to having this done so I can get rid of the rear toe in that's definitely there.
    The Jacking point is still up for grabs, I'm hoping I'll be able to come up with an idea to fix it. The rust in that area is so bad that is spans from the rear of the side skirt all the way through a new found hole int eh side of the floor pan. Going to get some steel stock, patch that up wile I've got the welder there.
    I'm also going to paint all 4 rear calipers I think. I'm thinking of going just a grey/ silver, or black. Any ideas on caliper colors? My car's the nice blue, I really like the color but I'm undecided what caliper colors would look good on it. Maybe yellow?

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