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Thread: Betty the Beater- Just a beginner drift thread

  1. #251
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    Quote Originally Posted by SilburE36 View Post
    I rebuilt a 1999 323i a few years ago.

    I ended up replacing the plastic (yes, thanks BMW) hardline. It crumbled where it goes into the back of the timing cover/water pump. The o rings were shot and it basically came apart in my hands when I pulled it out-lots of crusty coolant and who knows what else in the area.

    So I bought a new one and no leaks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yea, I replaced both hard lines and the return line. Mine broke off in the same spot, had to scrape it all out. My current theory is that it might not be sealing all the way, maybe I missed a little bit of the grit. I'm not sure though, they seemed to fit in pretty tightly and they have double O rings, so I'd think they'd seal OK. If the intake manifold has to come back off, it will, but I'm going to pressurize the system to be sure of where the leak is coming from.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by mcfilmwerks View Post
    Yeah I used a vacuum bleeder when I finished my swap and it made life so easy, we had it all done in like 10 minutes.

    As for the shifter, mine came loose too (apparently this is common with the cliq shifter), I was able to spin the handle before and now that I tightened it again and put loctite on it I can't do that anymore. Also, even setting mine literally as short as it can go, I still feel like the shifts are slightly too long but wayyyy better than stock
    By as short as they can go- do you mean the lock nut is extended all the way? Glad to hear locktite worked. It's a shame they didnt shave the base down to a square, so you could actually hold it with a wrench with any force worth a damn. And yea- my handle started spinning on me. Ugh. Back onto jack stands.....
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  2. #252
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    99 328i, a few more
    https://store.snapon.com/Cooling-Sys...l-P888852.aspx

    this is the one I have, it's so worth it in the long run. I think Mightyvac or someone makes a less expensive option as well.

  3. #253
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    e36 325ic
    So far so good but I havenít driven the car enough to make sure itís a permanent fix (I donít see how it wouldnít though). And by as short I mean like the lock nut is basically touching the loop for the shifter linkage lol

  4. #254
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    MC- Am I an idiot? If it's shorter(the linkage hoop is closer to the nut) doesn't that make the throw longer?
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  5. #255
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    99 328i, a few more
    Quote Originally Posted by awp235 View Post
    MC- Am I an idiot? If it's shorter(the linkage hoop is closer to the nut) doesn't that make the throw longer?
    I think this is right. The longer that lower piece, the shorter the throw is going to be. I think MC has it in the longest possible shift position

  6. #256
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    e36 325ic
    The way I was thinking about it was wrong, as I think of it more you guys are right. This is what I get for putting it on at 2am lmaoo, I will say though, even at the longest throw I'm still satisfied enough to just leave it at this point

  7. #257
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    Damn, I wish I had the space- Mine's grinding on the dang driveshaft and can't go any shorter!
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  8. #258
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    Ok, so I got my car aligned.
    Alignment pre-2019 season.JPG
    This is what I had them set it at. My rear toe could only be zero'd on the passenger side, the .18 was as much as we could adjust it on the drivers, so we matched that. Looking at the geometry, with camber arms, and my not so low ride height, I could probably get my rear camber in check and still be able to have a slight toe in.

    As for the front- I don't have the adjustable lollipops, that's just how it's set in the bushing, but the 5.8ish degrees of caster is how I had it set all last season, and the steering felt great. Last season I have .3* of toe out also, which seemed to work well for me. I was aiming for around 3.5* of camber in the front, because that pretty much flattens out my contact at full lock, so why go any farther. I run Indy Firehawks up front, 215/40 18, at 40psi cold. With this new subframe, hopefully I don't keep bending my SLR shanks.

    Also tested out my whole towing setup to get it to BC tire. Everything worked flawlessly, except I have a single qualm with my wireless brake controller. There's a slight amount of up/down play in my adjustable channel tongue on the trailer itself, and that play really messes up the accelerometer based braking on my trailer. It pulses a bit as the play makes the sensors go crazy. It also makes lots of noise when the trailer isn't loaded, and bangs a lot of force directly into my poor X5 sometimes. I think I'm going to bring my trailer to a local trailer place, see if they'd weld the tongue in place. I don't want it to be adjustable, the middle works great, and I've got no clue why someone put a 14k lbs coupler on a 7k gvwr trailer. Just give me a damn solid tongue and everything would be much smoother.
    car on trailer.JPG
    When using the manual brake control on it, it worked fantastically, so I know the controller isn't at fault, and nor are the trailer brakes. I weighted the tongue with 560lbs, and I figure my car's right around 3000 lbs, maybe a touch under. trailer is 2100 empty, and I has wheels and tires in there, so I assume I was right around 5500 lbs total behind me. X5 did just fine, even in pretty hefty crosswinds on the highway. Looks like I'll get 21-22mpg if I was going long distance on the highway at 65-70, giving me a range of about 450 miles.


    Also.... I didn't mention: I found my leak. Coming from one of the coolant hoses into the block, it seems to have worked itself loose, since I forgot to put the second mounting bolt in it! I'm an idiot. Going to try to seat it with the bolts in, and then I'll pull it out and put sealant on it in addition to seating it right. I'm going to pull the other one, use sealant too, and reattatch that one. While everything's off, I'm going to do my oil filter housing gasket too!

    Intake manifold came off yesterday, in about an hour. Way faster than last time. Going to pull the hoses, check for good fitment, and hopefully pull the OFHG today too.
    Last edited by awp235; 04-01-2019 at 10:05 AM.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  9. #259
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    1996 BMW 328i Sedan
    Whatís the towing capacity of your X5?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #260
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    USA towing capacity is rated at 6000 lbs, and Eu ratings have it at 7700. There are multiple people that have towed at least 9500 for many thousands of miles, with big travel trailers/ big enclosed trailers. The X5 feels very capable! People say if I'm going to run more than 6k to definitely get a distributing/ anti sway hitch.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  11. #261
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    Aug 2015
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    Crystal Lake, IL
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    1996 BMW 328i Sedan
    I have a Honda Pilot rated for 4400 lbs.

    wondering if I could get away with a car trailer and car. Trailer rule of thumb is 100# for every foot of deck, and my 328 is about 3K#

    So a 16 foot trailer and car would weigh 4600#.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #262
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    If you had a nice aluminum trailer, 14-16 ft, sure you could! Mine's a pretty beefy 18' steel trailer, I couldn't afford another 2k for an aluminum. I'm convinced big tex uses their 10k trailer frames for their 7k axle trailers too. But when you add up all the auxiliaries, things start to get heavy. Spare mount, a spare, a spare for the tow vehicle, a spare set for the racecar, all the heavy straps, the tiedown points, the toolbox on the front of the trailer, suddenly you've added some weight. Truthfully, if you had an aluminum trailer, 100% you'd be good. Even a 16ft steel, you'd probably be ok. Worry about your max tongue weight, becasue that's where a lot of the stability of the trailer comes from. My car's got 600 lbs of tongue weight capacity and lots of people run 1000 lbs with slightly reinforced hitches on my car. Not sure what your pilot is rated for, and what boundaries you're willing to push up against. I did tons of research into the limits of the X5, and found that many people really push the boundaries, so I'm happy to ride the stated limits, and possibly go a bit over them if it comes to it.

    At the end of the day, the euro rating of 7700 is more than my trailers rating, and the trailer's what I'll abide by.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  13. #263
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    Wow- It's been a busy weekend! I took the day off friday to get things done, and I'm really glad I did. Was a productive day. First thing I did was find the source of the huge coolant leak.
    found the leak!.JPG
    Found it! Orings were all messed up on one of the tubes. I got a new pipe (lifetime warranty) and pulled the other tube out while I was at it. The new pipe went in WAY smoother than last time, and just overall fit better. Both bolts in to secure both pipes, and I was good. I used a bunch of water pump gasket maker, figured it couldnt hurt. Let it set for about 20 hours before re-bleeding the coolant.
    new vacnos oil line+sealed new pipes.JPG
    You can see my brand new vanos oil line (couldnt hurt) and the sealer for the pipes. Woo! Then, While torquing my oil filter housing back on with the new gasket, I stripped out the top right hole.
    Oops, stripped opg.JPG
    I was going to JB weld a stud into the hole, but while cleaning it out for that, I saw more threads in the very bottom. I threaded in a 5mm longer m8, and it caught the threads. Torque rating was 16 ftlbs, and I got the rest to 16, and that one to 14 and didnt want to push my luck. I also doubled the washer on it, because I didn't want to bottom out in the hole and rip those threads out too. Once the intake manifold was back on and everything was all good, running well, it was time to jump into the camber arms, with 11 hours until I needed to have it on the trailer and headed out. Ended up being way late for alignmen, but they didn't mind. Long story short, the passenger side was easy, just a tight fit with a universal joint and I got the bolts out. Oh yeah, a few mins of torching each nut too.
    getting toasty.JPG
    I also realized that i didnt have new outer bushings, which is my mistake. I was confused about where the spherical joint was on these Turner arms. So I'm sending it for an event or two on my old ones. They still have some life left in them, right?!?!
    Forgot new bushings.JPG
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  14. #264
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    To get the drivers side inner arm bolt out, I ended up having to remove the diff brace, including the two front subframe nuts, and all 3 differential mounting bolts. All so that I could jack my diff up 2 inches so there was enough room to JUST BARELY get the darn bolt out of the hole. What a colossal PITA.
    jacked diff.JPG


    Finally everything was in, and I got to the alignment rack.
    woo, everything's in!.JPG
    I ended up getting 0 degrees of camber (more like -.15, but the shop was closing and it was close enough for now until I get new bushings.) and 0 toe. Had more room for adjustment too, which was great.

    After I got back and unloaded off the trailer, a pilot had a flat on his sonex right next to the runway.(I rent a small garage on the end of a block of hangars, right next to the runway) I spent the better part of an hour helping him out, as he didn't have the tools he needed, and I did! Learned something new!
    Learned how to change a sonex's tire tube.JPG

    That summed up Friday and Saturday. Felt good to make so much progress, although my car's leaking a good amount of oil currently. I'm 99% sure it's coming from the oil filter cap, the seal must've gone bad. It's went alllll around the rim of the housing cap.

    Then, Sunday evening I finally installed the battery box, once and for all. Left the plastic aluminum scratch protecting film on for now because I'll have to remove a lot of it soon to rewire the main power lines. It's really ugly how it is, and annoyingly looped and stuff. I'll do it better sometime this season, but it works for now and is safety legal with my clubs.
    Box installed.JPG
    It's just bolted right to the floor pan, and I just took some steel stock and extended my grounding point for now.

    Then, yesterday afternoon my wonderful girlfriend agreed to doing her trail run on a trail near the airport, so I went back and yanked the drivers seat out. Got it out no issues, but the stupid planted bracket wasn't exactly made by any geniuses.
    wtf hole.JPG
    How am I supposed to get the oem 2.5" long bolt in there?! So now I have to go out and grab a shorter M10, and wrench it into place with the messed up threads in that hole. That'll be fun.


    I've got 5 days to finish before I need to load it on the trailer friday night. All I have to do is finish this seat mounting, and get the front end back on. I'll see what I can do about getting the rear bumper on, but I'm not super worried about it. I need to change the oil to the motul 15w50 that I run while drifting, and I'll do the oil filter and new oil filter seals then. A few more hours of work and I'm there!! I'm also super sure my car will never get up my current ramps with the front end on, so I'm grabbing a set of race ramps off a good drifting buddy locally. The extra 7 feet of ramp should leave me no trouble to get on the trailer, with 11 feet of total ramp and the dovetail. I need to figure something out to go under the trailer so it doesn't point my suv's ass at the sky while I'm loading on though.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  15. #265
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    2 E30s and a maxima
    Man that thing is rusty.

    The planted bracket gave me the same issue. With the seat bracket out, I had just enough space to plop in the bolt. Kind of a pita so I cut it down by 2 threads.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  16. #266
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    I get it all a few good smacks to make sure it was just surface rust around the mounts. When I ripped the rear caret out, is was semi- permanently wet. Yuck. But, you can understand why I by no means ever plan on caging this chassis. At most, it'll become my "friend in town"s beater slide car. When I'm ready for a cage, I'm 100% still planning on doing a fully caged, full interior wagon. Going to run this chassis this season and then start looking into building a turbo kit, and then after I'm confident that this driveline is reliable, I'll start tossing money into a caged wagon.

    I just got new hardwars, I needed to grab hardware for the seat anyway. Grapped all class 10.9 coated stuff, so hopefully it wont break/ will be safe.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  17. #267
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    back together!.JPG
    Back together! I'm in the home stretch. Seat mounted, with the stock seatbelts being used. Left side of belt run through the seat, as it should be. Yesterday I put the whole front end back on too, I need to figure out my windshield washer tubes, sometime, but it might not happen before the event.

    Now I just need to find my quick release things that I got for my rear bumper, so I can put my rear bumper on for the first time in about 8 months. Worst case, I guess I can figure out a way to ziptie it on for this weekend, but I prefer not to drill any holes or anything. Bumper isn't perfect but it's far from totally destroyed!

    As far as leaks, I don't THINK I have any leaks. A bit hard to tell, because while filling after the oil change, I filled my non- flowing oil a bit too fast- 15w50 doesnt like being cold, and I spilled like 1/4 of a quart all over my valve cover. So now that's everywhere, and there was the previous oil leak form the oil filter, and there's no real way for me to tell what's new oil and what's old oil from the leaks So right now it's still got a bit of a drip, but I really think it might me the old stuff sloshing off all the little nooks and crannies of the motor. No coolant leak though!


    So now, all I really have to do is remount my fire extinguisher and try to get the rear bumper on. I'm also PRETTY sure that my front end clears the trailer ramps, even the crappy 4' ones that came with the trailer. That'll be good, and if not, it's close enough that jacking the tongue support down or putting my suv's rear wheels on some wood would surely solve the issue. And, I should probably but the under engine metal support plate back in, just for stiffness/ not bending things I guess.

    Driving the car around feels REALLY good, especially with working headlights now. The one thing that annoys me a bit is that I feel one of the axles binding, and know the CV bearing cage is about to blow up. Feels just like it did last time right before I broke an axle. I just don't know which one is it! So I guess I'm bringing all 4 of my spares, 2 for each side, and I assume at some point this weekend I'll be hopping a flatbed ride off the track, and swapping an axle in the nascar garages. Luckily it's really not that hard to do, I can probably do it in 15-20 mins from start to finish.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  18. #268
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    Well, I'll make a more detailed post later today or tomorrow. Long story short, car runs, but blew something in the cooling system on sunday halfway through the day. I'd love to diagnose it today and get it fixed, but I need to tow it back to my shop... and my X5's rear wheel bearing got pushed over the edge by the towing. It went today on my way to work. So, I can't diagnose it until that's fixed on wednesday, which means starting to look at it thursday.

    Car felt phenomenal though, and before it blew something, has absolutely ZERO leaks or drops whatsoever. First time it's ever not dripped at all!

    And of course, with my daily down, I have 4 vehicles that can't get me to work. Drift car dumped its coolant, street bike has a electrical issue, and my dual sport has a flat rear tire.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  19. #269
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    Jul 2015
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    96 328i coupe
    Thanks for posting up your bad time with that Planted bracket, made me shop with Garageistic for my seat mount. Sorry to hear about it dumping coolant, hopefully its an easy fix. Keep up the good work!
    Grimegang_cody on instagram if you want to follow my progress
    Quote Originally Posted by Timing View Post
    I heard you like fenders, yo. So I screwed some fenders on your fenders.

  20. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by cody2130 View Post
    Thanks for posting up your bad time with that Planted bracket, made me shop with Garageistic for my seat mount. Sorry to hear about it dumping coolant, hopefully its an easy fix. Keep up the good work!
    Thanks man! Easy to be discouraged when I just spent months trying to make this thing not leaky, and reliable....
    I do regret not shopping around more for the seat bracket. Post some pictures when you get yours, Iím curious how it fits! Eventually my passenger side will need one...
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  21. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by awp235 View Post
    Thanks man! Easy to be discouraged when I just spent months trying to make this thing not leaky, and reliable....
    I do regret not shopping around more for the seat bracket. Post some pictures when you get yours, I’m curious how it fits! Eventually my passenger side will need one...
    I have pics, just haven't posted them here lol, probably should do that lol
    Grimegang_cody on instagram if you want to follow my progress
    Quote Originally Posted by Timing View Post
    I heard you like fenders, yo. So I screwed some fenders on your fenders.

  22. #272
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    So! I'm currently uploading a quick minute long vid of my last lap on the road course. - https://youtu.be/H7xBp4Pt1fQ

    So to give the story- On my first lap sunday, on skidpad, I noticed my temp start creeping up by the end of the run. There were TONS of people there, so I only ended up doing 2 runs that first session. Temp would go down with revs while stationary, so I just assumed an air bubble, and that I'll bleed it out after the event. WRONG! I was really torturing the car on skidpad, our surface has a TON of grip, it's pretty rough pavement. I was using every bit of power the car had.
    At the end of my 4th lap of the day, I was looking behind me, and thinking "man, I've been making good smoke, but I must have been RIPPING that run!"
    20 feet of rolling later, I'm starting to think "hmmmmm.... is something on fire? There's a lot of smoke still...."
    another 20 feet and I pull into the grass, because I'm watching smoke/ steam/ something billow out from under the car and a bit from the hood. I stop the car, check for fire, and not finding any, open the hood. At this point, I realize I've left a fat trail of coolant dumping from about 10 ft before the end of the skidpad, all the way to where the car now sits. Car's HOT too. Uponfirst glance, I don't really see anything popped off or anything, no hoses blown, and no blown apart expansion tank. It's still spitting coolant like crazy, so I decide to let it cool off for a bit, and then just pack up and go home. I missed half the day on sunday, but it started pouring for the rest of the day, right as I was finishing up loading onto the trailer. Not a huge loss.

    Turns out there was enough pressure in the system to cause my expansion tank to blow off it's clipped bottom seal/ mount. Not even broken, just unclipped itself, and dumped everything from there. So I put it back on, filled with water, and it's seeming all good and sealed. I start bleeding it out, and it's going great, and then 10 mins in I still don't have heat, so I let it rev a little..... and it starts overheating, and boiling like absolute mad, boiling coolant hitting ths hood, from out of my big no spill bleeder funnel. I can feel the fluid moving through the upper hose, and I have a metal impeller water pump in there, so I'm nearly sure it has flow. I got a block tester, to test the gasses for exhaust gasses, and it didn't turn yellow, so I don't think it's the head gasket.

    Then I realize the fan isn't on, and the fan temp is in the lower Rad hose... which is warm, but not hot. So I think my thermostat failed closed. Only 2 years old... kind of stinks. I'm going to replace it on Saturday and see what happens when I try to bleed it. I'm super glad it seems like I didn't blow my HG, and I'm thinking about the possibility of a lower rated thermostat. I'm not sure if that's worth it or not, but I feel like I't give me a bit more of a buffer of "OH SHIT THIS THING's HOT" time.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  23. #273
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    Do you remember the brand of thermostat you used? I don't think I've seen one fail before. Most are made to fail open. But I could see the pressure building up from a closed thermostat blowing off your expansion tank.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  24. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Do you remember the brand of thermostat you used? I don't think I've seen one fail before. Most are made to fail open. But I could see the pressure building up from a closed thermostat blowing off your expansion tank.
    An autozone special, duralast I believe! The one that came on the car actually failed closed too. If it failed open, I'd never fix it!

    My m57 diesel's failed open, but then the motor runs at 60C, runs super rich, and used the glow plugs all the time, which causes the controller to start to burn out.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  25. #275
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    '07 335I 6MT, '01 330i
    Turned out to be the thermostat. Car's running and holding temperature fine now! All set for the skidpad "clinic" on saturday, the clinics have massive amounts of seat time. Bringing 12 burner wheels I think, all of them are half or more burned, and I'll bring 4 brand new unmounted tires that I have.

    Tire wear with the rear alignment is about as perfect as it'll get. It's 0 camber, 0 toe.
    tire wear.JPG
    My alignment is a tiny bit off from where it was set at in the front. I'm not sure it it's related to the stress of drifting (I forgot to put the stiffening/bracing plate back on) or the stress of it being tied down round the wheels. Maybe I'll throw some tie down points on the car to avoid cranking down on the wheels, pulling them weird ways.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

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