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Thread: N54 (135i) very high fuel trims on both banks, plus DTC

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    St. Joseph, Mo.
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    1,719
    My Cars
    e36, e46 ZHP, MkiV Tdi
    Quote Originally Posted by thejlevie View Post
    While I'm on a roll... An easy way to deal with a frozen brake rotor retaining screw when the hex socket strips is to pick a drill the same size as the bolt's major diameter. As soon as you drill through the head of the bolt the rotor will come free, leaving enough of the bolt to grab with vice grips. Then it becomes a matter of using penetrant and possibly the flame wrench.
    yup, this is a neat trick. did this on a friend's e90 not long ago - worked perfectly!
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Indianapolis
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    15
    My Cars
    E39 525i
    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    I believe the broken bolt involved here is aluminum; that's why it broke so easily. They should not be reused, by the way. However, that means it will be very easy to remove. Most likely, you can just twist it out with a pair of needlenose pliers. M7 is pretty small to have to drill, so if you do, you need to use the punch and reverse drillbit just as Jim has advised above.....but it will be very easy to punch and drill the soft aluminum. That said, aluminum bolts pretty much always spin right out.

    Um, if the injector seals are out of their sleeves for any amount of time, they will expand, and need to be replaced before installation.
    The bolt is steel. Will be a pain to remove from the head, if by any reason you break a screw extractor in there im not quite sure how you will get it out. so take you time and go slow.

    Also if the injectors are out of their sleeves like stated above you could just wiggle the sleeves back on them for 10 minutes and it will shrink them back down to size. We have special tools for this at the dealer, but the sleeve that comes on the end should work just fine to resize it.

    good luck!

  3. #28
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    13
    My Cars
    2010 BMW 135i
    Hello all,

    I successfully extracted the broken screw without too much trouble. The EZ-out worked as advertised, probably because the bolt was new and free of rust

    I went to install the new injectors using the method you described (tapping the alignment tab with a screwdriver). I seem to have a knack for using way more force than is necessary, because on one of the injectors I broke off the alignment tab. From what I can tell, this is just a tack welded piece for alignment during install only, and doesn't serve a purpose after the injector is installed. It looks like the bracket is what actually holds the injector secure once it's in there. Do you think this is worth pulling out and replacing the injector again? (I hope not, but if that's what I gotta do, so be it)

    Regarding the seals - when I had them out, it was for less than just a few minutes and I immediately placed the cap back on the seal when I stored them again. This seemed to work fine
    Last edited by maximillius; 07-16-2017 at 12:25 AM.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    13
    My Cars
    2010 BMW 135i
    Other than that, the install went great. I quickly learned how to tell when the injectors were fully seated and to be gentle with them after my first snaffoo... Tomorrow I will load the new calibration values in INPA (already verified it works) and try a startup.

    Thank you everyone for your help thus far!

    See image below for how absolutely nasty Injector # 6 was. Looks like a bad seal as there's gunk and residue all the way up the side. I think this explains why Bank 2 always had the worst of the issues. This was the one that required the slide hammer tool to remove.

    IMG_20170715_224936 (1).jpg
    Last edited by maximillius; 07-16-2017 at 01:52 AM.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    13
    My Cars
    2010 BMW 135i
    Hi all,

    Been driving for 4 days and so far all is well. At first it was a little rumbly at idle after cold start, but after resetting lambda adaptations and driving for a bit that seems to have gone away.

    I want to thank everyone here for all of their help, couldn't have done it without you guys. That was certainly an adventure but overall I'm glad I tackled it myself!

  6. #31
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    13
    My Cars
    2010 BMW 135i
    Hi all,

    I just want to keep updating this thread for future people who will inevitably find it on google.

    This did not fix my issue. The codes returned about 3 weeks after I replaced the injectors. It appears that resetting fuel (lambda) adaptations will always buy me 500 miles or so without codes while the adaptation tables fill up. As soon as the tables fill up, ding ding, code returns.

    I caved and took the car to the dealer. They are replacing both exhaust manifold assemblies (including turbos) under extended warranty, and I am paying to replace all 4 O2 sensors. If this doesn't fix it I will be truly out of ideas.

    Also, if anyone is wondering, Injectors and turbos on the N54 have an extended 100k mile warranty (this was news to me, I thought it was just the hpfp).

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