Glad you liked it! I must say these guys on the forum were a true blessing with their guidance and information that they share.
Great day at the track! Car did Great
diff , tranny, spaco and harness and oil cooler did well
gonna order better sway bars and rear wing to help with corners.
Any suggestions ?
the new vets, bimmers, mustangs, ect seam to have an advantage on the corners. Straightaways are not a problem,lol
What a great thread!
Thnx.
SpeedFreak!
aka: Jeremy Harper-Petros
Long-time BMW Enthusiast
Owner, Xtreme Xposure
and Xtreme Aerial FnPS
http://www.HookedOnSpeed.co
Glad you enjoyed
great day!
Need some feedback please
second time changing fuel pump carrier
running aeromotive 340 pump (E85 compatible) with relay from supplied from rallyroad
melted fitting and allowed fuel leak.
why is it getting so hot?DC89F292-CFBD-428C-B5F0-C57C2156724D.jpg24899DD9-A049-47A0-ACB2-48F9B5933C24.jpgfound problem at track after multiple 30 min sessions
- - - Updated - - -
The wire connection (positive) on the carrier melted and is allowing fuel to escape through plastic seal being that the plastic melted
More than likely need a thicker gauge wire that can handle more power
I had this problem with an AUX fan I had wired up. Used thicker cable and all is good
And it also looks like your going from a higher gauge wire to a lighter one. That is a no no. Should be the same gauge all around
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-21-2018 at 07:36 PM.
That’s what I thought as well. I guess RallyRoad does not have any aftermarket carriers at this point. I think he’s going to have some soon. I will need to illuminate the BMW original plug in carrier to feed wire direct from the relay to the pump itself. Is anyone used any type of carrier that allows you to do this?
Eliminate not illuminate, lol
That’s what I’m trying to prevent from happening I don’t want to illuminate
Don't use the factory wiring, its way too small for the amperage draw of these aftermarket fuel pumps. Use the factory wiring to turn on a relay direct from the battery to the fuel pump. Battery > fuse > relay terminal 30 > relay terminal 87 > fuel pump. Factory fuel pump wire > relay terminal 86 > relay terminal 85 > ground. Use screws and self locking nuts and washers to pass through the fuel pump hanger top. You will have to use a fuel proof sealant to seal the screws and the melted terminals in the fuel pump hanger.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Understand the idea but not clear on application at carrier/pump connection.
make new holes for nut and bolt and connect wires too nut and bolt?
D4E9CF4F-86D6-4EEC-B391-AD7667558A52.jpgThis seams ok to me. 14 gauge through existing hole,make connection at pump and seal where wire passes through
any feedback?
Feel like it might rub and bare the wires.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
You can do that but it may be a bit more difficult to make a fuel proof seal.
That's actually the way I have my wires run, been like that for 25k miles. Worked perfectly for me.
Am I correct, the ground wire to run the original route and gauge wire
What sealants are best for this application?
I’m glad I finally spoke up and asked for advice, thank you, been dealing with this issue for many months and thought it was just me
Question , And he favored wire connection inside fuel tank connecting wire to feel pump?
Ground and power wires should be the same size wire such as 12 gauge Assuming !5 amps and 7 ft wire from pump to battery.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Got it
Such a great thread
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Happen to have a before and after today from an m20 885 cylinder head. All I did was change the throat angle from 60° to 70°, and reduce the stem from 7mm to 6.25mm.
Lift" CFM before/after
.1" 29/34
.2" 59/60
.3" 114/118
.4" 171/181
.5" 174/185
If Thompson decides to go with a NV head, I would be glad to share any insights.
Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 01-30-2018 at 07:04 PM.
I don't know, if you do the math on the throat area the change from 7mm to 6.25mm valve stem is like a .5% change in throat area. I have to think the recutting of the throat angle had more effect than the valve stem diameter. We tested on this a bit when I was in school undercutting stems on a lathe and we just never saw any meaningful gain. I guess I would have to see it to believe it. Was it the exact same valves, just undercut on the stems? No change to the seats? I think a stock M20 head with stock valves did 176 on our bench so that make sense. My head with +1mm valve and recut seats did 191 I think. I had a ETA head I ported the shit out of flowing over 200 with the stock ETA port opening which was a fun project.
Again, this thread is about Thompson's car, but I can say from experience the seat angle had more to do with low lift figures and the valve stem had more to do with high lift. If I have time before this head goes out (with it's matching valves), I will attempt to create time put another head on the bench and show valve only. Forgive me if I am vague about some info. This is my living, bought my bench in over a decade ago. Not sure if you are on r3v or e30tech, but I have extensive posts on both about the m20 head and flow.
I have 400 casting 24v flow numbers with stock ( and Ferrea +1) valves and different valve job angles. Would be interesting to compare the thicker NV stems (not to say we can't crate a strong valve with both benefits, Ferrea is 1.5 mile from my shop).
Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 01-30-2018 at 11:01 PM.
Thinking about putting a smaller turbo on the M 50 motor. Little too much lag at the track .Any suggestions on what would be the best turbo for road course for my set up.
Hopefully start something soon with the S 50 as well but not first priority.
The turner front and rear sway bars and more camber on the rear help handling handling significantly yesterday at the track
I’m thinking the right turbo and maybe roll cage as the next two items.
Still amazed how much this motor handles and produces
Enjoying it more every time I have a track day
- - - Updated - - -
Oh yeah on a sidenote, picked up a ZHP clean that is boosted from my daily. God is good! F1AE7895-3B36-444D-BCC2-63FFBD388B63.jpg
Bookmarks