Car looks good Thompson, good job! Looks like you change your FMIC or is it the same. Looks like a tread stone in the pic.
Like the headlight cowl, unfortunately cars here won't pass street inspections if any lights are removed.
I took my cousin for a ride in my car and and he was curled into little ball in the passenger seat. He said its the quickest car hes ever been in. These motors are amazing and so capable and the worst part is most people don't realize it (or maybe the best part)
Especially in your case Though. E85 on a 20+ year-old motor with stock head bolts and for it to be running the way it is pretty extraordinary. Take Butters advice and don't go chasing waterfalls, keep at about 15-18 psi on stock bolts. Enjoy it for what it is
Way to go!
Last edited by 328iFun; 10-17-2017 at 10:20 AM.
fmic?
tread stone?
i agree! The best is taking someone for the first time, and after they catch there breath they ask again" you did this"
e85 and ARP head studs!!! I tried to do it have way right, lol
yes, stock head gasket
these motors are amazing! I agree on the boost limit. Now I need to focus on handling ect
the power is good!
i am thinking again about grabbing that S50 and build it slowly as a back up as well
Jumping to S5X from M5X is huge driveability performance gains. Massive as far as DDing. There are VERY VERY fast M5X's with big turbos and making massive power. But, when your after a nice reliable 500-600hp for daily driving that low end grunt in "out if boost" driving is great. When I went from M52 to S52 I'd have a hard time going back. Unless I was just building a race car or something. But, I'm not into that trailer car thing. I like buzzing around much more with the s52 even if I don't have the real estate to go into boost.
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1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Makes sense
I’m gonna check into picking it up
I will say that my m52 had plenty of low end grunt before going Turbo but it all seems to come back at 1.5 to 2,000 RPMS.
Backpressure
Regarding Oil, I think I’m ready to order some royal purple 20 W 50. I went with royal purple 540 but I’m running three sessions of 30 minute runs constantly at the Revlimiter.I believe in Florida heat 100° ,The 40 weight might not be enough. Any feedback?
Mobil 1 15w50
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Ordered the 15/50 Mobil 1
anyone running an oil cooler?
You have a m50, correct?
If so, they sell caps (since the m50's/s50's are bolt down) that have fittings to run a decent oil cooler from the oil filter cap with an inlet/outlet. Place your cooler in the behind the kidney fins. I love the way they look above the intercooler. I would do it. Just make sure you use quality parts, you don't want to lose oil pressure
Last edited by 328iFun; 10-21-2017 at 01:29 PM.
There is a member here in the track section "halifish" I believe. He has a neat setup I noticed when installing a meth kit on his car. He has the oil cooler mounted where the SAP was, with a small fan on it. Also hood vent over in that corner. So oil cooler, puller fan on top and hood vent. Pretty neat idea.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Sounds like a good idea
thanks guys
I'm using a euro e36 oil cooler and the Rallyroad cap. Make sure all heat exchangers are properly ducted.
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'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Well this looks major!
anyone familiar with a solution? 55A12F2A-89FB-4C9F-AA93-3FF35B552F92.jpg1F65E48C-8E0C-47C4-8CF0-054058223660.jpg
- - - Updated - - -
A98A6F77-FC97-4F0F-B898-F5666D811989.jpgDrivers rear
depressing, I guess I should have looked into some structural support?
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...forcement-kit/
Very common, easy to fix before it breaks, less fun when it's torn like yours since you'll want to patch the body first
Gotcha, yes I did some research and good time to do all the bushings and install the support plates
The later M3s had doubled plates at the subframe mounting points. You will need to drop the diff and subframe, clean off all the undercoating at the attach points, weld up the cracks and popped spot welds and weld on the reinforcements.
I’m going to take it one step further this winter, I’m going to stiffer the area that the subframe mounts to. I had obtained a floor section, back seat to spare tire well and shock tower to shock and can hack it up to find a solution that works. Last winter I found cracks and popped spot welds
Ouch... glad I have a vert
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I haven't been able to compare the thickness of the steel to a coupe because I don't have one right now. But from what I've gathered from other posts, is that the Verts:
1. Sub frame was manufactured thicker due to extra weight from soft top and possible hardtop configurations
2. The sub frame doesn't torque as because the entire body twists
3. ^ as mentioned above, less-abuse. But I've beat the hell out of mine. And I'm sure others have too.
or a combination of all three.
Would be interesting to know for sure
Thanks for all the feedback. I ordered all available supports and bushings from AKG.
trying to get into my friends lift tomorrow. He’s good with welding as well
any good advice on the removal process. I need to study and make time efficient.
Am I correct, do the ball joints and wheel bearings at the same time?
what manufacturer on these items
You're going to want to drop the whole rear assembly including trailing arms. Getting everything out of the way makes it go faster. It's a good time to service anything that's back there but it will get expensive fast.
Highly recommended to drop the fuel tank.
You will probably also want to get the trailing arm reinforcement plates and weld those in all at the same time.
With how damaged the points are you will need to drill into the floor from the top and reweld the little cones that hold the nut for the subframe bolts.
Last edited by Kevin325i; 12-01-2017 at 06:01 PM.
Gotcha, I did order the trailing arm supports as well
any good links in removal
I do not have any sorry. Unfortunately photobucket blew up all the good build threads too.
Of the top of my head the order will be something like drop:
back half of exhaust
driveshaft
ebrake cables from handle
brake lines
open box on the driver side of the subframe and disconnect wheel speeds and pad wear sensor
disconnect speed sensor in diff cover
rear shocks
rear trailing arms
subframe bolts
subframe roller assembly comes out
pull cover under the passenger rear for fuel expansion tank
remove expansion tank and disconnect filler neck
inside the car remove wiring to the sending units on both sides
disconnect fuel lines
take off fuel tank straps BUT SLOWLY LOWER and disconnect the vent lines on both sides of the tank
then fix everything that's fucked up and put it all back together.
Pull up the rear suspension parts diagram on realoem if you are confused about anything.
watched a couple utube vids
same order of yours
thank you
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