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Thread: M50 turbo build

  1. #601
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,043
    My Cars
    97' m52 turbo
    Car looks good Thompson, good job! Looks like you change your FMIC or is it the same. Looks like a tread stone in the pic.

    Like the headlight cowl, unfortunately cars here won't pass street inspections if any lights are removed.

    I took my cousin for a ride in my car and and he was curled into little ball in the passenger seat. He said its the quickest car hes ever been in. These motors are amazing and so capable and the worst part is most people don't realize it (or maybe the best part)

    Especially in your case Though. E85 on a 20+ year-old motor with stock head bolts and for it to be running the way it is pretty extraordinary. Take Butters advice and don't go chasing waterfalls, keep at about 15-18 psi on stock bolts. Enjoy it for what it is

    Way to go!
    Last edited by 328iFun; 10-17-2017 at 10:20 AM.

  2. #602
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    518
    My Cars
    E36
    fmic?
    tread stone?

    i agree! The best is taking someone for the first time, and after they catch there breath they ask again" you did this"

    e85 and ARP head studs!!! I tried to do it have way right, lol
    yes, stock head gasket

    these motors are amazing! I agree on the boost limit. Now I need to focus on handling ect
    the power is good!
    i am thinking again about grabbing that S50 and build it slowly as a back up as well

  3. #603
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Manchester, N.H.
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    My Cars
    96 332IS 6466 turbo
    Jumping to S5X from M5X is huge driveability performance gains. Massive as far as DDing. There are VERY VERY fast M5X's with big turbos and making massive power. But, when your after a nice reliable 500-600hp for daily driving that low end grunt in "out if boost" driving is great. When I went from M52 to S52 I'd have a hard time going back. Unless I was just building a race car or something. But, I'm not into that trailer car thing. I like buzzing around much more with the s52 even if I don't have the real estate to go into boost.

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  4. #604
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Florida
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    My Cars
    E36
    Makes sense
    I’m gonna check into picking it up

  5. #605
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
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    My Cars
    97' m52 turbo
    I will say that my m52 had plenty of low end grunt before going Turbo but it all seems to come back at 1.5 to 2,000 RPMS.

    Backpressure

  6. #606
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    518
    My Cars
    E36
    Regarding Oil, I think I’m ready to order some royal purple 20 W 50. I went with royal purple 540 but I’m running three sessions of 30 minute runs constantly at the Revlimiter.I believe in Florida heat 100° ,The 40 weight might not be enough. Any feedback?

  7. #607
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Virginia
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    My Cars
    97' m52 turbo
    Mobil 1 15w50

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  8. #608
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Florida
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    E36
    Ordered the 15/50 Mobil 1
    anyone running an oil cooler?

  9. #609
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Virginia
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    97' m52 turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by Thompson501 View Post
    Ordered the 15/50 Mobil 1
    anyone running an oil cooler?
    You have a m50, correct?
    If so, they sell caps (since the m50's/s50's are bolt down) that have fittings to run a decent oil cooler from the oil filter cap with an inlet/outlet. Place your cooler in the behind the kidney fins. I love the way they look above the intercooler. I would do it. Just make sure you use quality parts, you don't want to lose oil pressure

    Last edited by 328iFun; 10-21-2017 at 01:29 PM.

  10. #610
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Manchester, N.H.
    Posts
    16,712
    My Cars
    96 332IS 6466 turbo
    There is a member here in the track section "halifish" I believe. He has a neat setup I noticed when installing a meth kit on his car. He has the oil cooler mounted where the SAP was, with a small fan on it. Also hood vent over in that corner. So oil cooler, puller fan on top and hood vent. Pretty neat idea.

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  11. #611
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Florida
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    My Cars
    E36
    Sounds like a good idea
    thanks guys

  12. #612
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    8,162
    My Cars
    '97 M3
    I'm using a euro e36 oil cooler and the Rallyroad cap. Make sure all heat exchangers are properly ducted.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  13. #613
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Florida
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    E36
    Well this looks major!
    anyone familiar with a solution? 55A12F2A-89FB-4C9F-AA93-3FF35B552F92.jpg1F65E48C-8E0C-47C4-8CF0-054058223660.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    A98A6F77-FC97-4F0F-B898-F5666D811989.jpgDrivers rear
    depressing, I guess I should have looked into some structural support?

  14. #614
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    The D, MI
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    97 M3, 98 328i, 13 Cruze
    https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...forcement-kit/

    Very common, easy to fix before it breaks, less fun when it's torn like yours since you'll want to patch the body first

  15. #615
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Florida
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    My Cars
    E36
    Gotcha, yes I did some research and good time to do all the bushings and install the support plates

  16. #616
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C., Canada
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    My Cars
    '97 M3
    The later M3s had doubled plates at the subframe mounting points. You will need to drop the diff and subframe, clean off all the undercoating at the attach points, weld up the cracks and popped spot welds and weld on the reinforcements.

    I’m going to take it one step further this winter, I’m going to stiffer the area that the subframe mounts to. I had obtained a floor section, back seat to spare tire well and shock tower to shock and can hack it up to find a solution that works. Last winter I found cracks and popped spot welds

  17. #617
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Virginia
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    97' m52 turbo
    Ouch... glad I have a vert

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  18. #618
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Vancouver, B.C., Canada
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    '97 M3
    Verts are not exempt from this damage, they probably usually aren’t driven as hard as couples or sedans and are less likely to be modded so less cracks are seen.

    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    Ouch... glad I have a vert

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  19. #619
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Virginia
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    97' m52 turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    Verts are not exempt from this damage, they probably usually aren’t driven as hard as couples or sedans and are less likely to be modded so less cracks are seen.
    I haven't been able to compare the thickness of the steel to a coupe because I don't have one right now. But from what I've gathered from other posts, is that the Verts:

    1. Sub frame was manufactured thicker due to extra weight from soft top and possible hardtop configurations
    2. The sub frame doesn't torque as because the entire body twists
    3. ^ as mentioned above, less-abuse. But I've beat the hell out of mine. And I'm sure others have too.

    or a combination of all three.

    Would be interesting to know for sure

  20. #620
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Florida
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    518
    My Cars
    E36
    Thanks for all the feedback. I ordered all available supports and bushings from AKG.
    trying to get into my friends lift tomorrow. He’s good with welding as well
    any good advice on the removal process. I need to study and make time efficient.

  21. #621
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Florida
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    E36
    Am I correct, do the ball joints and wheel bearings at the same time?
    what manufacturer on these items

  22. #622
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    The D, MI
    Posts
    1,406
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    97 M3, 98 328i, 13 Cruze
    You're going to want to drop the whole rear assembly including trailing arms. Getting everything out of the way makes it go faster. It's a good time to service anything that's back there but it will get expensive fast.

    Highly recommended to drop the fuel tank.

    You will probably also want to get the trailing arm reinforcement plates and weld those in all at the same time.


    With how damaged the points are you will need to drill into the floor from the top and reweld the little cones that hold the nut for the subframe bolts.
    Last edited by Kevin325i; 12-01-2017 at 06:01 PM.

  23. #623
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Florida
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    E36
    Gotcha, I did order the trailing arm supports as well
    any good links in removal

  24. #624
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    The D, MI
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    97 M3, 98 328i, 13 Cruze
    I do not have any sorry. Unfortunately photobucket blew up all the good build threads too.

    Of the top of my head the order will be something like drop:
    back half of exhaust
    driveshaft
    ebrake cables from handle
    brake lines
    open box on the driver side of the subframe and disconnect wheel speeds and pad wear sensor
    disconnect speed sensor in diff cover
    rear shocks
    rear trailing arms
    subframe bolts
    subframe roller assembly comes out

    pull cover under the passenger rear for fuel expansion tank
    remove expansion tank and disconnect filler neck
    inside the car remove wiring to the sending units on both sides
    disconnect fuel lines
    take off fuel tank straps BUT SLOWLY LOWER and disconnect the vent lines on both sides of the tank

    then fix everything that's fucked up and put it all back together.

    Pull up the rear suspension parts diagram on realoem if you are confused about anything.

  25. #625
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Florida
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    518
    My Cars
    E36

    watched a couple utube vids
    same order of yours
    thank you

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