M50 turbo build

[rajicase]

Its not the nuts that are the problem. It is the washers. I tried doing it with the cams in place, and it just wasn't worth it. Pulled the cams and trays and put them in with ease..

[Mklock]

I would chase the threads with a tap, really is the best way to do it.

[Thompson501]

Removing cams and trays sounds scary

[jakeE36325]

Removing cams and trays sounds scary

But boosting a stock HG doesn't?

[pbonsalb]

Its not the nuts that are the problem. It is the washers. I tried doing it with the cams in place, and it just wasn't worth it. Pulled the cams and trays and put them in with ease..

Studs go through washers. If you can get the studs in you can get the washers in. But I agree it's easier to pull the cams if you know how to time them.

[Thompson501]

Ill take a look again regarding the washers
if I stay in the game I'm sure I'll have to pull the motor and do it right

[someguy2800]

Try using a stick magnet

[Mklock]

Timing is easy as pie they have blocks just for it. #1 to tdc plop your blocks on the cams. Rotate your vanos to Max travel then back to suck the gear in. Bolt up and let it roll.

[328iFun]

Ill sell you a cam timing kit

[spenka]

Ill sell you a cam timing kit

Is the Cam kit different from the Vanos kit?


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[328iFun]

I've got the blocks, sprocket tool, fly wheel lock pin, tensioner tool, and head bolt socket, if needed

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[Thompson501]

Thank you,
yes I tried stick magnet but will review again
is removing the cams and trays more technical with vanos?

[328iFun]

Thank you,
yes I tried stick magnet but will review again
is removing the cams and trays more technical with vanos?

? Do you have Vanos?

If so, of course. It adds another piece to the puzzle.

These engines are easy to time, anyone with a little to no mechanical knowledge should be able to do it by following simple directions and by having the required tools, IE. Cam Blocks (at the very least).

Key to timing Vanos is when inserting the helical gear into the intake camshaft spline make sure it catches on the first tooth. Also make sure your sprockets are installed correctly and have full travel so the secondary chain can activate the unit properly.

Here's a couple pretty decent videos: If you've never done it before

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdfISjWdzrs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxTz7W5Gkqg&t=191s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23jXHhkpV_I

[328iFun]

Is the Cam kit different from the Vanos kit?

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Blocks should be the same only difference is you don't need the sprocket tool to time the vanos

[Thompson501]

Ill take a look again regarding the washers
if I stay in the game I'm sure I'll have to pull the motor and do it right

- - - Updated - - -

I'm gonna reach out to a couple of local guys to see if they are interested in doing the job with me at the house

- - - Updated - - -

The job of installing the head bolts now that is

[Loki Motorsport]

I saw on the previous thread page some talk about spool with different turbos. If it's any consolation, I have full boost at about 3000 RPM. My setup is a top mount Precision 6262 w/ .68 A/R hot side. Stock pistons with a .140 MLS. I'm also 2.8 displacement. Also only running 12 lbs off of the wastegate. And yea, on timing... with cam blocks, the job is pretty fool proof assuming you make ensure that the bottom end is TDC along with the valvetrain. And like 328iFun posted above, make sure when installing the vanos unit, it catches on the first spline, otherwise it will not advance/retard as it should. Don't hesitate my friend! We have faith in you.

[Thompson501]

Thanks for all the feedback!
well apr studs are in!!! Yes I was fortunate to find a friend of a friend that had done this job before with cams and trays in place. Definitely takes a lot of patience
any one every install a relay for a fuel pump, I purchased a 340 lph pump and relay kit from RallyRoad and thinking of installing tomorrow

[rajicase]

ForumRunner_20170526_182449.jpg

[Thompson501]

IMG_0617.jpgWent to change pump an found this already installed. Walbro 340 looks like.
i think I'll just put it back in.
getting mixed feedback on the necessity of the fuel relay.
whats your opinions?

[rajicase]

<img src="https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=601136"/>Went to change pump an found this already installed. Walbro 340 looks like.
i think I'll just put it back in.
getting mixed feedback on the necessity of the fuel relay.
whats your opinions?

Nice!
Just fyi that is a 255lph fuel pump. Should do 500+ whp no problem on pump gas but just know it isn't a 340lph pump.

I ran on stock wiring for a few thousand miles. No issues. But it's so easy to wire in a relay I would suggest it.

[Thompson501]

Did some research and the new pump is definitely a better pump and made for e85. I believe they shorted me the sleeve the plastic housing. I emailed Raleigh Road and hope for a responseIMG_0618.jpgIMG_0618.jpg
I need to work on getting this new pump installed and figure out that relay

[rajicase]

What plastic sleeve housing? That purple metal case over the pump IS the pnp adapter that allows the pump to snap into the factory plastic hanger.

[Thompson501]

Hmmm, remove the clamp that came around the pump?

[rajicase]

Hmmm, remove the clamp that came around the pump?

Actually nvm I don't have the rally road one so maybe it's different. I'm sure someone else here who has it will chime in.

[Thompson501]

Ok
regarding the relay, the orange and grey go to the wires that originally fed pump?