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Thread: clear/reset engine codes

  1. #1
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    clear/reset engine codes

    I would like to reset the codes on my 2002 bmw 525i please. I have a tool that shows me the codes but it does not show me when they occurred. I would like to reset them so i can start from a clean slate. The car goes dead when its cold on the first crank and you have to give it a little gas to let it warm up or it has a very rough idle. Once the car is warm is runs just fine so i want to see what codes are legit and not focus on old codes. i really appreciate any help. (I had my ICV and throttle body cleaned yesterday and today my cruise control doesnt light up or work)

  2. #2
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    So what codes are you getting? If you have the in Pxxxx format post them.
    Your stalling and poor running when you start it could be bad vanos o-rings.
    Last edited by JimLev; 04-27-2017 at 11:43 AM.

  3. #3
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    Here is a list of codes but i have no idea when they occurred and that is why i am wanting to clear the codes and start fresh.
    p2098
    p1353
    p1351
    p1349
    p1347
    p1093
    p1085
    p1083
    p0174
    p0171
    p0102
    p0313
    p0300

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    Yor scan tool s/b able to clear the codes. If not, toss it and buy one that does. Look at the Harbor Freight offerings.


    Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.

  5. #5
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    Holy hell! Massive vacuum leak methinks.

  6. #6
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    LOL @777300ER. well when they cleaned the ICV yesterday they found a whole in the duct going to the motor from the air filter. Right where 2 rubber hoses plug in and they coated it in silicone to seal it off. How do i find the leak? I am hoping that was the leak and it cleared. I will stop by orileys and use theres to do a reset on the codes. Think thats caused my cruise control to stop working?

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    Definitely need to replace the intake boots, silicone just doesn't cut it. Also make sure everything gets reconnected on both ends.

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_0919

  8. #8
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    i know for sure the Hot-film air mass meter is having issues because i noticed it was unhooked today. i found one for under 30$ on carparts.com is this place ok to buy from? When i hooked the current one back up it started missing much worse.

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    Hooking up the MAF sensor causing the car to run worse does not mean the MAF is bad. If it is unhooked the car is going to try to run on other sensors and use those inputs to adjust the a/f ratio. None of your codes points to a bad MAF sensor, but to a bad vacuum leak.

  10. #10
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    Disconnecting the battery should clear the codes but I would think that any scanner should be more than capable of doing it much easier. Do a search for you brand and model scanner and im sure a tutorial will come up that explains how.
    And was it a shop that "siliconed" the hole in your intake? Silicone takes about 24hrs to dry so if you didn't wait that long before running it you probably just sucked it in through your freshly cleaned throttle body and down into your motor. I would think that black electrical tape would have been better. It needs to be replaced either way.

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  11. #11
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uturn540 View Post
    Hooking up the MAF sensor causing the car to run worse does not mean the MAF is bad. If it is unhooked the car is going to try to run on other sensors and use those inputs to adjust the a/f ratio. None of your codes points to a bad MAF sensor, but to a bad vacuum leak.
    This ^^^ is teh goodone.

    Disconnecting the MAF puts the car on default tables which basically works to 'fix' bad running from vacuum leaks temporarily, since the engine is probably in fact getting the right amount of air but the MAF just isn't seeing it. I'd not waste money on a MAF for sure.

    As said, fix the intake properly, and keep looking... And honestly if you have a shop that gooped an intake hole w/ silicone, they prob aren't equipped to work on these motors... I suspect this ain't a real "BMW" shop (and "European Auto Specializt!" on the sign out front doesn't mean its true...) so OP - keep in mind paying a corner cheapo shop 3-4 hours at $60/hr to hunt and peck at stuff is way more expensive than paying for 1hr at $100 at a good BMW Indy that knows exactly where to look and how to fix the problem the first time.

    Quote Originally Posted by builtinbetter View Post
    Disconnecting the battery should clear the codes
    Definitely not. That's not been true for most Euro cars since the early '90's. You can take the DME out, leave it on your bedside table for a month, then read it on the bench and it'll still have the codes sitting in it.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    This ^^^ is teh goodone.

    Disconnecting the MAF puts the car on default tables which basically works to 'fix' bad running from vacuum leaks temporarily, since the engine is probably in fact getting the right amount of air but the MAF just isn't seeing it. I'd not waste money on a MAF for sure.

    As said, fix the intake properly, and keep looking... And honestly if you have a shop that gooped an intake hole w/ silicone, they prob aren't equipped to work on these motors... I suspect this ain't a real "BMW" shop (and "European Auto Specializt!" on the sign out front doesn't mean its true...) so OP - keep in mind paying a corner cheapo shop 3-4 hours at $60/hr to hunt and peck at stuff is way more expensive than paying for 1hr at $100 at a good BMW Indy that knows exactly where to look and how to fix the problem the first time.



    Definitely not. That's not been true for most Euro cars since the early '90's. You can take the DME out, leave it on your bedside table for a month, then read it on the bench and it'll still have the codes sitting in it.
    There you go grinding my gears again!
    Kidding!


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  13. #13
    geargrinder's Avatar
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  15. #15
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