Which oil for high revs?

[drewusmaximus]

Hi all, 1995 525i 5 speed 210k

I have a light intermittent ticking sound coming from the engine. It comes and goes but, goes away when I rev the engine. It only occurs during idle. While idling the sound comes and goes.
I have Castrol GTX 5w20 non synthetic. I drive hard, driving around 5000 to 6500 rpm range in all gears.
Ive done research on which oil to use while driving hard on a high mileage engine but, everyone seems to have a different opinion. I was told to use 20w50 but, someone else said to use another weight. I'm wondering if someone can tell me which oil I should use on my engine based on the mileage and my driving conditions. Also, what can I do to get rid of the intermittent ticking sound? Should I buy a certain cleaner? Is there something I can adjust in the engine, or do I just simply use a different weight?
I would appreciate any advice. I want to maintain the health of the engine.
Thanks in advance!

[GregT53]

Ticking is something that BMW owners get used to. My '95 525 at 150K miles ticks a bit on idle. If it is beyond just a mild tick then it could be your timing chain tensioner. If you are hearing a tick/knock under load then it could point to fuel or ignition related problems. Your engine has knock sensors so you've got some protection against a catastrophic incident. What octane fuel are you using?

As for oil, these cars got 15W40 non-synthetic when new and that is what I have stuck with. Shell Rotella T4 is what I use ever since BMW stopped making 15W40. Valvoline makes a good non-synthetic 15W40, too.

[mottati]

Hi all, 1995 525i 5 speed 210k

I have a light intermittent ticking sound coming from the engine. It comes and goes but, goes away when I rev the engine. It only occurs during idle. While idling the sound comes and goes.
I have Castrol GTX 5w20 non synthetic.

if you're using 5w20 i'd say that's too thin. as greg mentioned, put 15/40, or 15/50 in and see if that changes the ticking.

[drewusmaximus]

I'm using 93 octane only. The tick is mild and it comes and goes. It's an M50 single vanos. There's no tick throughout the rpm range. It only occurs during idle. It will tick for a minute then go away for about 5-6 minutes, then tick again for a couple minutes then it'll go away. I want to run a cleaner in the engine then change the oil but, not sure which cleaner and oil to use. And since I drive hard on every gear, I want to make sure I use the right oil weight.

[GregT53]

As mottati pointed out, 5W20 is too low. You really cannot go wrong with 15W40. Using 20W50 is too heavy for that engine.

If you are hoping to get rid of the ticking, I don't think running a fuel system cleaner will have that result. But, it won't hurt to put something in the tank.
Liqui-Moly makes a couple of decent cleaners at a good price. Techron is fine and is probably the easiest to obtain, and least expensive. There is also Seafoam. BG44K is a high dollar (~$25) cleaner sold only through parts stores like NAPA , but not places like Autozone or Advance. I've used all four and do not notice a difference among them. But, it makes you feel good about treating your car to some love!

If you are thinking about some kind of engine flush, I warn against that. Flushing an engine with consumer grade products can do more harm than good by dislodging stuff that clogs ports and passages. I'm not sure paying a repair shop to flush an engine is any better; it's certainly more expensive.

Are you running a different than stock chip, like Turner or Dinan?

[drewusmaximus]

I am running an AC Shnitzer chip. The tick was present before adding the chip. I used to use Seafoam in the past but, Seafoam is designed for two stroke engines. Doesn't work on cars. I usually use Gummout because it's designed for cars and it works fantastic on getting rid of carbon buildup on piston heads and injectors. I used the Gummout when I first got the car. When I first got the car there was no tick. After using the Gummout and changing the oil the tick started. So it's either I rinse the engine again with Gummout and risk gunk dislodging or just change the oil.

[ross1]

Quit adding that crap to your oil and try using a heavier bottom number synthetic my $.02 Oh, revs kill so be sure that thing is properly lubricated with your driving style

[drewusmaximus]

I haven't used synthetic and I read that it's not good to switch to synthetic on a high mileage engine because it's thinner oil and might cause leaks. But, that's someone else's theory. I always had good luck with Gummout but, I don't like to use it more than once on an engine but, it seems my best option is to use 15w40, which I will use at my next oil change. Hopefully the 15w40 will rid the tick.

thank you all for the input and suggestions.

[GregT53]

I think you will be happy with 15W40.

Seafoam is not limited to 2-cycle engines. It's intended for use on 2 and 4 cycle, and diesel engines. I would not dump it in my crankcase though.

[drewusmaximus]

I'd used Seafoam in the gas tank and intake but, stopped using it in the crankcase. I instead starting using Gummout multi system treatment in the crankcase. I pour in a half bottle and drive 50 miles, then when I'm ready to change the oil, I start the car, let it idle for a few minutes and rev the engine at 2.5k rpms for a minute then change the oil. It works great but, I won't use it more than once per engine.
Thank you all for the information. I will switch over to 15w40 ASAP.

[BleedsBlue]

I agree with the above posters, and wanted to add that higher mileage M50/M60 motors seem to really like high-ZDDP oils. My understanding is that switching to synethetic from conventional is only inadvisable on older engines, I would run nothing but synthetic in an M50 and switch to a high ZDDP (5w-30 min, or higher weight) oil in any M50 immediately.

[ross1]

I haven't used synthetic and I read that it's not good to switch to synthetic on a high mileage engine because it's thinner oil and might cause leaks. But, that's someone else's theory. I always had good luck with Gummout but, I don't like to use it more than once on an engine but, it seems my best option is to use 15w40, which I will use at my next oil change. Hopefully the 15w40 will rid the tick.

thank you all for the input and suggestions.

It won't cause leaks but it might find some small ones the dino oil hadn't.

[GregT53]

Shell Rotella 15W40 (T4) is non-synthetic, T5 is a semi-synthetic and comes 10W30 and 10W40, and T6 is full synthetic (5W40). I run the T4 my E34 525; T6 in my X5; and Valvoline 20W50 VR1 non-synthetic in E34 M5. Valvoline makes a 15W40 oil, too. Both Shell and Valvoline are great oils. The X5 has an M54 engine,, basically an M50 with dual VANOS and some other nice refinements.

[drewusmaximus]

Ticking is something that BMW owners get used to. My '95 525 at 150K miles ticks a bit on idle. If it is beyond just a mild tick then it could be your timing chain tensioner. If you are hearing a tick/knock under load then it could point to fuel or ignition related problems. Your engine has knock sensors so you've got some protection against a catastrophic incident. What octane fuel are you using?

As for oil, these cars got 15W40 non-synthetic when new and that is what I have stuck with. Shell Rotella T4 is what I use ever since BMW stopped making 15W40. Valvoline makes a good non-synthetic 15W40, too.

isnt Rotella T4 for Diesel engines? Are you recommending Rotella T4 in the M50? I'm going to Walmart today to grab oil. Should I get the T4?

[GregT53]

Yes, it does day for Diesel engines, but there is nothing that precludes its use in gasoline engines. I use it in my E34 525 M50, and it's common now to use it in vehicles like the older BMWs. Have a look at the Shell Rotella website.

[XAlt]

Rotella T6 in my hoonmobiles all day everyday. I've got a friend who swears by T4 Dino in his E46 M3, and it does indeed comes out good after 4k miles of massive abuse.


But seriously, they're good enough for a superbike revving to 12000rpm or an 18 wheeler with a massive turbo, they'll do well in your E34. The second number is what matters the most, the first will determine cold start noise and initial lubrication.

[AHenry014]

rotella is made for diesels, yes, but is commonly used in gasoline engines. Its a really great product. i have used it numerous times. I used to run 10w40 for the colder months, and 20w50 for the warmer months in my m50nv car. As stated, 5w20 is way too thin. Walmart is the best place to get oil cheaply. T4 would work for you just fine.

[squirrelhill]

If I may add to the discussion...my (new to me) e34 m50 touring has 257k miles and I am currently running Mobil 1 5w-30 EP on my first fill. I do not know what type of oil the PO used. The 5w-30 seems fairly thin to me and I am also get some ticking at startup and idle.

I am going to switch to a thicker oil (15w-40 or 15w-50) in hopes of better engine protection and maybe some relief from the ticking.

Do folks in moderate climates (e.g., Virginia) run the thicker oil all year round or just in the summer months? In this respect, would a 0w-40 or 5w-40 be a better choice for winter? Also, any issues with switching from a fully synthetic to a synthethic blend? Based on my research, I am considering using the 15w-40 Shell Rotella T5 (synthetic blend) on my next fill. The Redline 15w-50 is also getting some consideration, but is pricey and requires shipping.

Hope that I am not thread jacking....

[BleedsBlue]

I knew a lot of smart of guys that ran Rotella (labeled for diesel) in their high mileage E36s. Generally speaking, 5w-30 almost always causes ticking (again, speaking higher mileage here), between oil changes but especially in an autocross or track situation. The word was thicker oil, and as high of ZDDP as possible (also a target for S38 and air-cooled P-car guys). The same principles seem to hold true for both M50 and M60--they are very similar after all.

I'm not sure what was in my M60 when I bought the car, but I had to put a solid three quarts in it over 5k miles before changing, and at autocross it ticked like 40 clocks (this is around 140k miles). I since switched to Rotella T6 5w-40 (diesel) and haven't actually had to add a drop in 4k miles, nor have I heard a tick even after a hard mountain drive. It rarely tops 90 degrees here, and I need an oil that can handle 0 degrees easily, just for reference. I wouldn't touch 15w-50 personally, in a four season daily in Colorado. Even in my M5 that stuff made for rough sub 20 degree starts.

[drewusmaximus]

I'm in upstate NY and summer is around the corner. Is 15w40 the ideal weight to use? And when winter comes, what weight should I use, 0w40?

[GregT53]

I use 15W40 year round in central VA. You could go to 10W40, or even 5W40, but I believe both will be syn blends or full syn. I'd stay away from zero weight.

[drewusmaximus]

Update. I changed the oil and used Rotella T4 15w40. I started the car and can still hear the tick but, this time it happens through all rpms in oppose to only during idle. Is there something I can adjust internally? I think I read that the lifters are self adjusting but, how about the valves? How hard is it to replace lifters? I feel as if I need to I've it a good clean because I changed the oil less than 600 miles ago and the oil was black. Maybe giving it a good clean might eliminate the tick?
The tick is very mild but, it's uncomfortable driving with the tick.
What should I do?
Thanks in advance.

[GregT53]

You should give the engine time to adjust to the new weight oil. Drive it for 500-1,000 miles and reasses the situation. Changing too many things at once just confounds the issue. Consider backing off on the high revs for awhile.

Looking at the basics, you are running the correct oil now. If the ticking persists then you need to be looking at potential problems with the VANOS, maybe the chain tensioner. Maybe oil pressure is low which could indicate oil pump problems.

The history on these older BMW sixes is that they are tickers. It appears to be related to the lifter design. Not sure it's a serious matter.

The M50 does not get valve adjustments, so you don't have to be concerned with that.

[BleedsBlue]

Listen to Greg^, both on the wait several hundred miles bit, and on the fact that these engines are tickers (particularly at 210k+ miles). It's nothing to stress over. In extreme cases, usually in beat/under-oiled cars or those with 250k+ miles, sometimes the only solution is new lifters (during a head job), but you need to let that thicker oil do its work through many driving cycles before worrying further.

[GazM3]

Had to have a chuckle with the OP saying he drives everywhere at between 5000-6500rpm. I'm glad I'm not it the passenger seat LOL.