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Thread: Steering wheel shimmy at 100-110kmh:too many choices of control arm bushings- solved

  1. #1
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    Steering wheel shimmy at 100-110kmh:too many choices of control arm bushings- solved

    I need control arm bushings to arrest an annoying steering wheel shimmy. The only problem is that ECS have too many options to choose from!
    https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31121136607/

    I haven't got the time to wait for the Lemforder, Pex or febi-Bilstein, so those are immediately out of the mix. Don't need to be ripped off by BMW for the genuine ones either. That leaves just MTC, URO & HT brands. I have never heard of any of these three before. I usually go for something I've heard of before like Meyle, Boge & Lemforder.

    Does anyone have any experience or comment to make about the MTC, URO or HTC brands for bushings? What do you recommend please?

  2. #2
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    here Lemforder on sale for $18.99 ex stock, or Meyle for $13.19 on sale ex stock https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=31121136607
    FCPEURO ships quick and has good rates for shipping overseas. I bought a lot from them already.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #3
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    Brilliant thanks for that. Forgot about FCP. I'll grab those Meyle ones for sure. At least I've heard of Meyle before! Got a mate travelling around USA right now, so just need to get them to him in Anaheim to be brought back in the overhead lockers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Legoman View Post
    Brilliant thanks for that. Forgot about FCP. I'll grab those Meyle ones for sure. At least I've heard of Meyle before! Got a mate travelling around USA right now, so just need to get them to him in Anaheim to be brought back in the overhead lockers.
    Go Lemforder, I use them in basically everything suspension related.

    Meyle can be spotty with their QC.
    Last edited by XAlt; 04-25-2017 at 11:24 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    Go Lemforder, I use them in basically everything suspension related.

    Meyle can be spotty with their QC.
    Thanks. I'll go the Lemforder then from FCP

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    I chased a shimmy in my front end for over a year. Replaced upper and lower control arms and bushings and, while it improved slightly, it never went away. Finally ended up replacing the steering idler arm and all was well. $35 and about 30 minutes of my time, I was a very happy man. I'd definitely add this to your shopping list.

    PS I bought the Lemfoerder version with the bushing already pressed in from ECS
    Last edited by gregeast; 05-03-2017 at 05:20 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregeast View Post
    I chased a shimmy in my front end for over a year. Replaced upper and lower control arms and bushings and, while it improved slightly it never went away. Finally ended up replacing the steering idler arm and all was well. $35 and about 30 minutes of my time, I was a very happy man. I'd definitely add this to your shopping list.

    PS I bought the Lemfoerder version with the bushing already pressed in from ECS
    Yep I hear ya. I have the same experience. So far, the steering idler arm, both lower control arms, centre track rod, brake rotors/pads and even the wheels+tyres have all been replaced. It's been through at least 3 wheel alignments that I can remember too during all this work. It has definitely improved the shimmy by making it far less severe than it was, but it hasn't completely arrested it yet.

    The biggest improvement by far was swapping the wheels+tyres out. Got rid of the old 15" style 5 jobbies for E38 style 61 16" units instead that bolted straight up with perfect sizing/offset. Shod with expensive Continental rubber replacing the cheap, 'Sunshine Happy Motor Rainbow' brand Chinese rubber that was on there for budget reasons has made a significant improvement, but the shimmy hasn't gone completely away.

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    Just to close the loop on this one, I threw the car up on a hoist this morning to flex the control arm bushes to see if they were cracked. They weren't. In fact, they look pretty good, no visible cracks or anything untoward in them, but they have been there a long time, so perhaps they've just gone soft without actually showing up as obviously shot by way of cracking yet. Cheap to replace though, so just going to renew them anyway.

    Of more concern though was the driver's front shock is actually leaking out the bleed tube in the strut housing. The bump stops have crumbled away to nothing and the gaiters are flopping around in mid-air not connected to anything. I figure this whole situation is probably not helping anyone, so I've just ordered new Sachs 110990 shock inserts, the new bump stops, new gaiters and new top shock mounts as well. If all this doesn't finally fix the steering shimmy once and for all, then I throw my hands up in the air and give up!

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    Sounds good, in case that does not help, next steps http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...ering_link.htm
    My last shimmy was caused by the centre tie rod, and as you have a right hand drive, read this thread about which joint is pre-loaded and which not on a RHD http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1237734
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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    Yeah I've read that, however, my new centre track rod was sourced here in Australia. It's aftermarket, non-genuine, but made for Australian market cars, so designed to be suitable for RHD cars from the get-go. I'm aware also that there was a BMW product recall for these cars way back shortly after they were released for sale in Australia in 1987 to replace the centre track rod for a redesigned, much larger/heavier version. The original centre track rod was like a noodle and so flimsy it caused uncontrollable steering shimmy in brand new cars. The resultant warranty claims caused a quick rethink and redesign by BMW. My new centre track rod is to this revised beefed-up redesign version.

    My mechanic is a former BMW dealer mechanic here and he vividly remembers hundreds of centre track rods lined up on the floor in the dealership workshop corner waiting to be scrapped after changing them out from every E32 7-series as it arrived off the boat from Germany in 1987-88.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by XAlt View Post
    Go Lemforder, I use them in basically everything suspension related.

    Meyle can be spotty with their QC.
    Funny you say that because I finally went with Lemforder bushes from FCP and when pressing them into the arms, one bush was undersize by at least 200µm. It was such a rattling good fit in the arm there wasn't enough interference to stop it from spinning in the arm instead of around the mounting bolt through the middle.

    New bush installed ............... Old bush removed
    New bush installed.jpg Old bush removed.jpg

    So just because Lemforder are OEM doesn't make them any less spotty with their QC than anybody else. I contacted FCP about the issue and they duly refunded the cost for the unuseable bush, but of course that doesn't pay for the replacement which had to be procured locally at 3x the cost or the labour involved in messing about with the wrong size bush.

    All that said, the end result has been a good one. Got the car back yesterday and went straight to aligners after front strut rebuild + upper control arm bushes. Very happy to report the steering shimmy problems are finally completely resolved. Not a hint of steering epilepsy anymore at any speed. Car has actually never driven so smooth or straight and true as it does now.

    I found myself actually looking for bits of cracked and resurfaced roadway to deliberately drive into just to test out the new shocks and see what they could comfortably cope with and damp away. Car is so smooth and quiet now, it's almost Rolls-Royce like progress driving it. You'd never guess it has run flat SSR Continental tyres. Not from the ride at least. You might guess from the comparative lack of outright performance in acceleration (they are a LOT heavier than conventional tyres - I discovered this fact after buying a normal Continental tyre for the spare and feeling the difference in total weight when mounted to the same wheel). The spare is normal weight, the road wheels are immediately obviously a lot heavier when you pick them up. The only difference is the tyres. I have a matched set of 5 x E38 style 61 wheels and all the tyres are Continental EcoContact 225/55-16 except the road tyres are SSR variety and the spare is not.

    All I can guess is that despite looking fine, the old upper control arm bushes were shot in their rubber rigidity and the fact the front shock absorbers had leaked all their oil and were no longer working at all allowed what little movement there was in the control arms to build to a resonant frequency and cause a shimmy in the steering. I think fixing both issues has tightened up the whole assembly so the steering now has no slack at all and stays firm at any speed.

    So if you're chasing a steering shimmy on these cars and you've replaced everything obvious but it still won't go away, then cast a critical eye at your front struts for signs of leaking shock oil out the breather tubes and replace them. They're surprisingly not that expensive but make a massive difference to the ride & handling quality.
    Last edited by Legoman; 06-13-2017 at 07:14 AM.

  12. #12
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    great thread, Just bought a 735i with a shimmy so hopefully I can solve it too.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by G4DARE View Post
    great thread, Just bought a 735i with a shimmy so hopefully I can solve it too.
    Good luck with your efforts. It's worth it in the end. These cars drive beautifully when they work as they're supposed to. I can finally experience the full effect of the variable assistance power steering now like it's supposed to work. Without all the vibration and shimmy, I can feel how the steering wheel remains exactly the same weight to turn regardless of speed. It works amazing well. Previously when at speed on a freeway the steering would go so light, it was like driving a video game controller. You really had no idea where the front wheels were pointing even before the shimmy started kicking in at 100km/h. Now though, the feedback is brilliant. Steering wheel requires exactly the same effort to turn whether parking in a car park or doing 120km/h down the freeway.

    Assuming your car is straight and hasn't had any accident damage to misalign things, it will track properly and not vibrate with just standard components as long as they're all in good condition. Don't get suckered into believing you need to 'upgrade' to different wheels/tyres or urethane bushes to arrest the shimmy. This is not true. I had to resist mechanics who couldn't diagnose the shimmy away and wanted to fit urethane bushes instead of the normal Lemforder upper control arm bushes to solve the shimmy.

    Apart from the obvious effect of urethane bushes causing a much harsher ride quality and much more jumpy & coarse steering feel, there is so much weight in the front of these big cars that fitting urethane bushes also has the effect of transferring the load they bear onto the other components in the linked system. This causes premature wear of the lower control arm ball joints, the steering centre track rod & the idler arm. While they might stop the shimmy initially with the side effect of harsher ride quality, in the long run they will cost you a lot more money as the other components are suddenly being asked to take a lot more of the cushioning load being palmed off by the urethane bushes skiving off their cushioning work onto their mates next door.

    The whole system has to work in harmony equal sharing the considerable load being borne on them by the car's weight. Keep in mind too that the upper control arm bushes on these cars are extremely marginal in size (or in fact undersize) for the job they're being asked to do anyway. There was a considerable redesign in the subsequent E38 cars. If you have a look at the same bushes in an E38 or X5 or basically anything built since the E32, they are at least twice the size in a vehicle that weighs not that much more. So the bushes don't have to be obviously falling apart to be not working anymore. Even just a small amount of tiredness in the rubber will be enough to illicit the car's protest warning with a steering wheel shake.

    Personally I wouldn't venture far away from standard BMW wheel sizings or offsets either. I've gone with a +1 E38-size fitment which is non-E32 standard, but been very careful to maintain correct offset & hub bore so that no hubcentric rings, spacers or longer bolts are required. Go much beyond this though and I would think you're asking for trouble. Bigger wheels inevitably put bigger loads on the suspension to hold them in place and in cars with very marginal size bushes in the first place even with standard wheels, this can be the difference between your car driving like it's supposed to and driving like a epileptic pig.

    I had no option but to go up a size in wheels because where I live 15" tyres are getting to be a very special and expensive order especially in the 60% aspect ratio of what the E32 required. Even paying top $$$ to get them I was still only able to get really crappy brands out of China or Korea as replacements and spending $1,000+ on crappy quality Korean/Chinese tyres just to get the necessary sizing for the wheels seemed such a stupid waste of money that it was cheaper and easier in the end to replace the wheels with 16" versions instead to get back into normal production run tyre sizings from the mainstream quality tyre brands.
    Last edited by Legoman; 06-21-2017 at 09:54 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legoman View Post
    Good luck with your efforts. It's worth it in the end. These cars drive beautifully when they work as they're supposed to. I can finally experience the full effect of the variable assistance power steering now like it's supposed to work. Without all the vibration and shimmy, I can feel how the steering wheel remains exactly the same weight to turn regardless of speed. It works amazing well. Previously when at speed on a freeway the steering would go so light, it was like driving a video game controller. You really had no idea where the front wheels were pointing even before the shimmy started kicking in at 100km/h. Now though, the feedback is brilliant. Steering wheel requires exactly the same effort to turn whether parking in a car park or doing 120km/h down the freeway.

    Assuming your car is straight and hasn't had any accident damage to misalign things, it will track properly and not vibrate with just standard components as long as they're all in good condition. Don't get suckered into believing you need to 'upgrade' to different wheels/tyres or urethane bushes to arrest the shimmy. This is not true. I had to resist mechanics who couldn't diagnose the shimmy away and wanted to fit urethane bushes instead of the normal Lemforder upper control arm bushes to solve the shimmy.

    Apart from the obvious effect of urethane bushes causing a much harsher ride quality and much more jumpy & coarse steering feel, there is so much weight in the front of these big cars that fitting urethane bushes also has the effect of transferring the load they bear onto the other components in the linked system. This causes premature wear of the lower control arm ball joints, the steering centre track rod & the idler arm. While they might stop the shimmy initially with the side effect of harsher ride quality, in the long run they will cost you a lot more money as the other components are suddenly being asked to take a lot more of the cushioning load being palmed off by the urethane bushes skiving off their cushioning work onto their mates next door.

    The whole system has to work in harmony equal sharing the considerable load being borne on them by the car's weight. Keep in mind too that the upper control arm bushes on these cars are extremely marginal in size (or in fact undersize) for the job they're being asked to do anyway. There was a considerable redesign in the subsequent E38 cars. If you have a look at the same bushes in an E38 or X5 or basically anything built since the E32, they are at least twice the size in a vehicle that weighs not that much more. So the bushes don't have to be obviously falling apart to be not working anymore. Even just a small amount of tiredness in the rubber will be enough to illicit the car's protest warning with a steering wheel shake.

    Personally I wouldn't venture far away from standard BMW wheel sizings or offsets either. I've gone with a +1 E38-size fitment which is non-E32 standard, but been very careful to maintain correct offset & hub bore so that no hubcentric rings, spacers or longer bolts are required. Go much beyond this though and I would think you're asking for trouble. Bigger wheels inevitably put bigger loads on the suspension to hold them in place and in cars with very marginal size bushes in the first place even with standard wheels, this can be the difference between your car driving like it's supposed to and driving like a epileptic pig.

    I had no option but to go up a size in wheels because where I live 15" tyres are getting to be a very special and expensive order especially in the 60% aspect ratio of what the E32 required. Even paying top $$$ to get them I was still only able to get really crappy brands out of China or Korea as replacements and spending $1,000+ on crappy quality Korean/Chinese tyres just to get the necessary sizing for the wheels seemed such a stupid waste of money that it was cheaper and easier in the end to replace the wheels with 16" versions instead to get back into normal production run tyre sizings from the mainstream quality tyre brands.
    I got a set of Federals on my OEM 15" rims and am very happy with the sound and feel and performance. Total cost was about 425.00 for the whole set.

    I have to think they are much better than the very best tires available back in the early 90s, right?
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MMMEAT View Post
    I got a set of Federals on my OEM 15" rims and am very happy with the sound and feel and performance. Total cost was about 425.00 for the whole set.
    Wow, if I could have got a set of tyres like that for that price then I wouldn't haven't bothered with all the hassle of sourcing, restoring and fitting the E38 16" wheels either! I liked the basketweave style 5 15x7" wheels anyway and didn't really want to change them. Was just forced into it by tyre availability where I am. My only choice here was Chinese no-name brand tyres which cost $200 each and were so lacking in any sort of roundness QC they required balancing weights stuck on top of balancing weights with duct-tape stuck over the top to keep them in place! They were ridiculously out-of-round and had no high point marking dots on them even from brand new for match mounting.

    I bought them the last time purely based on the quite attractive sporty tread pattern that I must admit did look good. Unfortunately it was literally the only thing about them that was good. Obviously they made my steering vibration problem even worse and probably contributed to accelerating the already advanced wearing of the front suspension components due to the excess vibration.

    Quote Originally Posted by MMMEAT View Post
    I have to think they are much better than the very best tires available back in the early 90s, right?
    I would agree with that thinking. I have at least heard of Federal tyres before unlike the Chinese tyres I put on, so that's a very good start. Federal are not a major brand down here in Australia, but they are known of. Perhaps more of a budget brand for non-enthusiasts and taxi-drivers/fleet cars sorta thing. I'm not entirely sure. I've never had them myself.

    My 740 came to me fitted with Bridgestones which were horrible but unfortunately almost brand new with lots of tread on them. It took me a while to wear them down so I could get rid of them. All the time though I knew that original fitment was Continental because I still had the original spare under the boot floor with one of the original Continentals with a puncture repair in it that had obviously been done very shortly after the car was bought brand new because it still had 95+% tread left. I always wanted to go back to OE Continentals again at some point, but when the time came to replace the Bridgestones, I couldn't afford the cost of new Continentals at $300 each, so I went with the Chinese rubbish instead. Big mistake.

    Then when I decided to really attack the steering shimmy problem from all angles, I decided to get rid of the Chinese rubbish, but by then Continental had stopped making 15" tyres in a 60% aspect ratio, so I was stuffed. So that was when the change to 16" E38 style 61's came around because I could still get Continental tyres in 16" 55% aspect ratio. Still massively expensive, but I managed to track down a second hand matched set with 80% tread left for about 30% of brand new price. The only downside being they were the SSR run-flat variety. I took the SSR penalty in order to get a matched set of Continentals in the right size. Even being SSR's, they are way smoother, quieter, require much less balancing weights and have far greater ultimate grip in all road conditions than any other tyre I've ever had on the car. I wouldn't choose SSR tyres if I had a choice, but for 1/3 the cost of brand new ones, I wasn't going to argue the point.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legoman View Post
    Good luck with your efforts. It's worth it in the end. These cars drive beautifully when they work as they're supposed to. I can finally experience the full effect of the variable assistance power steering now like it's supposed to work. Without all the vibration and shimmy, I can feel how the steering wheel remains exactly the same weight to turn regardless of speed. It works amazing well. Previously when at speed on a freeway the steering would go so light, it was like driving a video game controller. You really had no idea where the front wheels were pointing even before the shimmy started kicking in at 100km/h. Now though, the feedback is brilliant. Steering wheel requires exactly the same effort to turn whether parking in a car park or doing 120km/h down the freeway.

    Assuming your car is straight and hasn't had any accident damage to misalign things, it will track properly and not vibrate with just standard components as long as they're all in good condition. Don't get suckered into believing you need to 'upgrade' to different wheels/tyres or urethane bushes to arrest the shimmy. This is not true. I had to resist mechanics who couldn't diagnose the shimmy away and wanted to fit urethane bushes instead of the normal Lemforder upper control arm bushes to solve the shimmy.

    Apart from the obvious effect of urethane bushes causing a much harsher ride quality and much more jumpy & coarse steering feel, there is so much weight in the front of these big cars that fitting urethane bushes also has the effect of transferring the load they bear onto the other components in the linked system. This causes premature wear of the lower control arm ball joints, the steering centre track rod & the idler arm. While they might stop the shimmy initially with the side effect of harsher ride quality, in the long run they will cost you a lot more money as the other components are suddenly being asked to take a lot more of the cushioning load being palmed off by the urethane bushes skiving off their cushioning work onto their mates next door.

    The whole system has to work in harmony equal sharing the considerable load being borne on them by the car's weight. Keep in mind too that the upper control arm bushes on these cars are extremely marginal in size (or in fact undersize) for the job they're being asked to do anyway. There was a considerable redesign in the subsequent E38 cars. If you have a look at the same bushes in an E38 or X5 or basically anything built since the E32, they are at least twice the size in a vehicle that weighs not that much more. So the bushes don't have to be obviously falling apart to be not working anymore. Even just a small amount of tiredness in the rubber will be enough to illicit the car's protest warning with a steering wheel shake.

    Personally I wouldn't venture far away from standard BMW wheel sizings or offsets either. I've gone with a +1 E38-size fitment which is non-E32 standard, but been very careful to maintain correct offset & hub bore so that no hubcentric rings, spacers or longer bolts are required. Go much beyond this though and I would think you're asking for trouble. Bigger wheels inevitably put bigger loads on the suspension to hold them in place and in cars with very marginal size bushes in the first place even with standard wheels, this can be the difference between your car driving like it's supposed to and driving like a epileptic pig.

    I had no option but to go up a size in wheels because where I live 15" tyres are getting to be a very special and expensive order especially in the 60% aspect ratio of what the E32 required. Even paying top $$$ to get them I was still only able to get really crappy brands out of China or Korea as replacements and spending $1,000+ on crappy quality Korean/Chinese tyres just to get the necessary sizing for the wheels seemed such a stupid waste of money that it was cheaper and easier in the end to replace the wheels with 16" versions instead to get back into normal production run tyre sizings from the mainstream quality tyre brands.
    Really Appreciate the insight Legoman! I believe I have been really lucky with my 7, full maintenance history up until 2008, with almost everything replace and in good condition. Its hard to tell she has 180k on her and for the moment puts my 6 to same :S. However the 7 isn't without the common problems that seem to have surfaced a few weeks later since acquiring her. For example its quite possible I have the instrument cluster capacitor failure, also had the crash relay fail as well. Im hoping that due to the visible new components on her backed with the service history that the shimmy I am experiencing is no more than unbalance wheels. I am quickly learning that these cars have a few electrical gremlins. Especially compared to the pretty rock solid e24s. But as you said, the e32 is an incredible experience and such a joy to drive which makes it all very much worth the trouble.
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