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Thread: 06 x3 mysterious check engine light and Bluetooth

  1. #1
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    06 Elise-totaled 06-x3

    06 x3 mysterious check engine light and Bluetooth

    Okay so I'm new here and I'd really REALLY, appreciate some help. As the title says I have an 06 x3 M sport model. It has the 3.0l m54 if I'm not mistaken. Here's my problem.

    1.the check engine light- it comes on every time 1000 miles after resetting it. The codes are for bank1 and bank 2 "too lean". It runs just fine, gets the same mileage it always has. In an attempt to fix the check engine light I have replaced the CCv system, plugs, coils, air filter, cleaned mass air flow and still says I have a lean code. I've also tested for leaks. Tested the disa and so on. Still says it's running lean. Anyone with some more ideas please feel free to tell me.
    by the way the car has 241,000 runs flawlessly minus the check engine light. Could a faulty coolant temp sensor cause a lean code?

    2. The Bluetooth. It has it. I've checked. The unit is in the back. I have the passcode, the button on the wheel doesn't work and the button on the CD player doesn't do anything. I've tried disconnecting the unit and the battery for extended amounts of time to try and make it re sync, I've looked on YouTube and all the info on there says it's pretty straight forward they all say when you turn the car on it should automatically be in sync mode for 2 minutes blah blah blah. Well that doesn't happen for me. Is there a way that the head unit can lock that feature out? And if so. How do I access the hidden menu to unlock it.
    Last edited by TheProdistini; 04-24-2017 at 03:01 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheProdistini View Post
    Okay so I'm new here and I'd really REALLY, appreciate some help. As the title says I have an 06 x3 M sport model. It has the 3.0l m54 if I'm not mistaken. Here's my problem.

    1.the check engine light- it comes on every time 1000 miles after resetting it. The codes are for bank1 and bank 2 "too lean". It runs just fine, gets the same mileage it always has. In an attempt to fix the check engine light I have replaced the CCv system, plugs, coils, air filter, cleaned mass air flow and still says I have a lean code. I've also tested for leaks. Tested the disa and so on. Still says it's running lean. Anyone with some more ideas please feel free to tell me.
    by the way the car has 241,000 runs flawlessly minus the check engine light. Could a faulty coolant temp sensor cause a lean code?

    2. The Bluetooth. It has it. I've checked. The unit is in the back. I have the passcode, the button on the wheel doesn't work and the button on the CD player doesn't do anything. I've tried disconnecting the unit and the battery for extended amounts of time to try and make it re sync, I've looked on YouTube and all the info on there says it's pretty straight forward they all say when you turn the car on it should automatically be in sync mode for 2 minutes blah blah blah. Well that doesn't happen for me. Is there a way that the head unit can lock that feature out? And if so. How do I access the hidden menu to unlock it.
    1. I chased bank one and bank two lean codes for several months on my '05 X3 with M54. In addition to the CCV, air filter, plugs, coils and cleaning the MAF, I also replaced the gas cap and fuel filter. The final thing I did was replace the o-ring on the dipstick and I believe this was the actual repair that resolved the codes. I failed to change it when I did the CCV system when I had the intake manifold off. It's a PITA to get out with the manifold and everything else in place. The old o-ring was broken and brittle allowing excess unmetered air into the CCV system.
    2. My bluetooth worked fine when I purchased my vehicle, but it quit working a couple of winters ago. I removed the bluetooth module and carried it to an electronics repair shop. The repair person advised that the circuit board had burned out likely due to condensation on the circuit boards since it happened in the winter and the module is made of metal. He was surprised that the circuit boards had not been coated with a moisture barrier because he said most circuit boards of this nature are sprayed with a moisture resistant coating to prevent the burn out that I experienced. I would recommend that you remove yours and separate it and take a look to see if the circuit boards are burned out. It's not difficult to get out and not difficult to take it apart. I purchased a replacement from ebay... it was plug and play and still works great.
    Current Garage:
    91 e34 M5 - spoiled & demanding 27 y/o -glanzshwarz
    91 850i/6 -another spoiled & demanding 27 y/o- schwarz-gone but never forgotten
    06 325i - undeserving, spoiled & demanding 27 y/o daughter's DD-hellrot
    03 MINI Cooper S JCW -spoiled & demanding, yet deserving wife's DD - Chili/Panther
    05 X3 3.0i -family workhorse - diamond schwarz
    12 X5 3.5d - torque monster - space gray metallic
    86 GMC Cabellero - Old Faithful 32 y/o DD BMW Support Vehicle
    08 Cub Cadet 19HP 46" hydrostatic- yard vehicle
    88 Schwinn Sierra - 1WD Off Road Vehicle
    e31 & OHC BMW CCA #385540

  3. #3
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    06 Elise-totaled 06-x3
    Thank you for the response, and I appreciate the info
    So today I read my codes again and I had a different code including the normal two for bank 1 and 2 lean, the new code was for the coolant temp sensor being out of spec or something along these lines. So I went into the hidden dash menu, watched the coolant temp and it wouldn't go above 90 no matter what I did. Idling extensively, driving hard, driving on the highway, so either A. It's reading in Celsius or B the sensor has failed and it's just putting out a generic signal for the computer to run the engine safely until I replace the part. Or C. The thermostat is stuck open.
    But here's my hypothesis, I believe the coolant temp sensor is bad causing the computer to adjust the fuel trims making the engine run lean, but it only realizes the engine is running lean when the oxygen sensors tell it so after the fact. I also believe the sensor is bad because my cooling fans still come on like normal, the engine is definitely well over 90degrees farenheight.
    My coolant temp gauge does read directly in the middle like normal and also starts off cold in the morning and slowly goes up as it should. So that part confuses me unless the coolant temp sensor for the fans also doubles as the one sending signal to the gauge. Today I did The incredibly irritating job of removing the intake manifold and getting to the coolant temp sensor, I finally got to it after hours of fooling with the damn thing only to realize there was a single bolt buried underneath preventing me from removing it. tomorrow I'll put it all back together and see what happens, before I put it together though I'm going to clean all of my runners, and replace the intake manifold gaskets, o rings on my injectors, o ring on the dipstick, and de grease all the junk under the manifold. Has anyone noticed how incredibly irritating it is to remove that mounting bolt down by the dip stick? Why is it even necessary? They have 10 bolts holding that plastic manifold up, they could have ran a mount from the manifold to the valve cover and achieved the same result they were after whilst also saving customers so much grief. Or better yet, put the coolant temp sensor in a better spot!
    Hopefully my hypothesis is correct and this fixes my issue.
    But after doing my computer reset and battery disconnect last night, driving today it sure seemed to be sucking down some fuel. I was driving like grandma and got 37 miles to 1/8th or however many little marks there are. I normally get 50+ per space between the lines. I contribute it to the fact the computer hadn't learned yet and was just throwing fuel in to engine to keep it safe until it figured out how lean it could go without damage occurring.

    Sorry for the run on paragraphs, you don't have to answer everything, if anything let me know if you feel I'm correct or incorrect about the temp sensor and we'll find out tomorrow who's right or wrong. Let's hope I am right and this is the simple fix I've been after!

  4. #4
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    Yes...removing the intake is a pig of a job, especially the hidden bolt on the underside. I can only assume that the bolt is there to support the weight of the intake since it's made of plastic and it's so heavy.
    Since your temp gauge is running in the middle, more than likely, the 90 degree reading from the hidden menu is Celsius. 90 degree Celsius equates to 194 F which sounds about right.
    Good luck and report back what you find out.

    Also....do you have a list of all the hidden menu features?
    Current Garage:
    91 e34 M5 - spoiled & demanding 27 y/o -glanzshwarz
    91 850i/6 -another spoiled & demanding 27 y/o- schwarz-gone but never forgotten
    06 325i - undeserving, spoiled & demanding 27 y/o daughter's DD-hellrot
    03 MINI Cooper S JCW -spoiled & demanding, yet deserving wife's DD - Chili/Panther
    05 X3 3.0i -family workhorse - diamond schwarz
    12 X5 3.5d - torque monster - space gray metallic
    86 GMC Cabellero - Old Faithful 32 y/o DD BMW Support Vehicle
    08 Cub Cadet 19HP 46" hydrostatic- yard vehicle
    88 Schwinn Sierra - 1WD Off Road Vehicle
    e31 & OHC BMW CCA #385540

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    06 Elise-totaled 06-x3
    Thanks for the response and once it's all back together tonight I'll report back. I agree that if it's reading in Celsius it's probably working appropriately. But if that's the case my only logical step afterwards is to replace the thermostat in hopes that it may be malfunctioning slightly. It wouldn't make sense to me that the computer would have a dedicated sensor specifically for the hidden dash readout or whatever it would use it for but I know there's two temp sensors on this car, one is located at the back of the block under the manifold, the other is located when you open the hood and look at the lower radiator hose on the passenger side directly where the hose meets the radiator. That sensor I just described is the coolant temp sensor that controls the fans. The one behind the block I'm assuming controls the dash gauge and the hidden dash readout. Hoping that I'm incorrect though, let's assume the fan coolant temp sensor reads out on the dash also. And the other one is used for the computer to make adjustments in fuel trims based on engine temps. Or to put the engine in limp mode if it were to get too hot. It wouldn't surprise me if bmw had backup sensors for the backup sensors at this point. So I'm not sure what to think. I'm just tired of the light being on without an apparent issue. So on to the dash readouts, here's the list at least for my car.
    BMW E83 On-Board Computer (OBC) Hidden Codes
    nr example description
    1 Car Engine and cluster data
    1.0 46nnn Chassis nr/VIN serial number (last 5 digits)
    1.1 4nnn K-number
    1.2 690236 Cluster Part #
    1.3 045210 Coding (04)/diagnosis (52)/bus index (10)
    1.4 1200 Week (12)/year of manufacture (2000)
    1.5 09_160 Hardware (09) and software # (16.0) of cluster
    1.6 Not used
    1.7 04__44 CAN-version (04) KI-revision index (44)
    2 (test) Cluster System Test - Activates the gauge drivers,
    indicators and LEDs to confirm function
    3 SI Data
    3.0 1098 Used fuel in liters since last SI (Service Inspection)
    3.1 0231 Periodic inspection days; elapsed days (since last SI)
    4 Momentary Consumption
    4.0 0145+ Instant fuel consumption - 0145=14.5 liters/100km
    4.1 0018 Instant fuel consumption - 0018=1.8 l/Hour
    5 Distance Gone Consumption
    5.0 082 Average mileage; 082=8.2 liters/100km
    5.1 0536 Calc. km to refuel (momentary distance to go)
    6 Fuel Level sensor inputs in liters
    6.0 109330+ Fuel level averaged; Left half sensor input=10.9 liters; Right sensor input=33.0 liters
    6.1 0439+ Total tank level averaged; vlgs 6.0: 10.9+33.0=43.9 liters
    6.2 0442+ Indicated value (44.2) and tank phase
    7 Temperature and Speed
    7.0 021+ Coolant/Engine temperature (2.1C)
    7.1 130 Ambient/Outside temperature - chg met 5 pts. 125/130/135
    7.2 + Engine speed / Current RPMs 1/min
    7.3 + Vehicle speed / Current Speed in km/hour
    8 Input value in HEX form
    8.0 1d0+ System voltage ADC-Value Hex code
    8.1 26C33C+ ADC Values HG left/HG right
    8.2 0000 ADC Value brake degradation sensor (000=o.k.)
    8.3 18C ADC Value outside temperature
    9 Battery
    9.0 140 Battery Voltage - 140 = UB 14.0v
    9.1 242013+?
    9.2 074_78+?
    9.3 0011+?
    10 Not used
    11 Not used
    12 Not used
    13 GonG Gong Test
    14 Not used
    15 Status cluster I/O-ports (bit codes) 0=low; 1=high
    1st-belt contact, seat belt fastened=0; 2) ignition lock contact, key inserted=0; 3) door contact, door open=0; 4) clock button pressed=0; 5) SI reset=0, for reset=0; 6) EGS transmission failure=0
    Status Digital Outputs (bits) 0=inactive, 1=active
    1) Gong output; 2) Brake warning lamp; 3) Low fuel warning lamp; 4) EGA lamp; 5) seat belt lamp; 6) manipulation dot
    16 Not used
    17 Not used
    18 Not used
    19 Lock Status; unlocks functions in range 3-18
    19.0 L-On/L-Off Unlock: press button when "L-Off"
    20 Not used
    21 Software Reset; reset OBC settings
    00 End of test

  6. #6
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    06 Elise-totaled 06-x3
    [QUOTE=91e34M5;29684997
    Since your temp gauge is running in the middle, more than likely, the 90 degree reading from the hidden menu is Celsius. 90 degree Celsius equates to 194 F which sounds about right
    QUOTE]

    I was reading online and a lot of people say these engines run hotter than that to reduce emissions and so on, so maybe my engine is running too cool due to the bad coolant temp sensor? And it's messing with my gas mileage and fuel trims as a result? I know a bad coolant temp sensor can make the car adjust all kinds of things but I'm just confused as to why A. It normally comes on during highway driving. B.the dash readout seems to indicate it's in the right temp range unless it's meant to be running 2-250. In that case I could see why it would flip the code. Mine runs normally between 180-195

  7. #7
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    [QUOTE=TheProdistini;29685051]
    Quote Originally Posted by 91e34M5;29684997
    Since your temp gauge is running in the middle, more than likely, the 90 degree reading from the hidden menu is Celsius. 90 degree Celsius equates to 194 F which sounds about right
    QUOTE

    I was reading online and a lot of people say these engines run hotter than that to reduce emissions and so on, so maybe my engine is running too cool due to the bad coolant temp sensor? And it's messing with my gas mileage and fuel trims as a result? I know a bad coolant temp sensor can make the car adjust all kinds of things but I'm just confused as to why A. It normally comes on during highway driving. B.the dash readout seems to indicate it's in the right temp range unless it's meant to be running 2-250. In that case I could see why it would flip the code. Mine runs normally between 180-195
    I found the hidden menu for engine temp this morning as I was driving to town. After the engine fully warmed up, it stabilized at 87 degrees per the display and fluctuated from 85-90. It never went over 90 but mainly stayed 86-87.
    Current Garage:
    91 e34 M5 - spoiled & demanding 27 y/o -glanzshwarz
    91 850i/6 -another spoiled & demanding 27 y/o- schwarz-gone but never forgotten
    06 325i - undeserving, spoiled & demanding 27 y/o daughter's DD-hellrot
    03 MINI Cooper S JCW -spoiled & demanding, yet deserving wife's DD - Chili/Panther
    05 X3 3.0i -family workhorse - diamond schwarz
    12 X5 3.5d - torque monster - space gray metallic
    86 GMC Cabellero - Old Faithful 32 y/o DD BMW Support Vehicle
    08 Cub Cadet 19HP 46" hydrostatic- yard vehicle
    88 Schwinn Sierra - 1WD Off Road Vehicle
    e31 & OHC BMW CCA #385540

  8. #8
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    Well I'm at a loss then, I guess the thermostat is next, it also has a sensor attached to it, so maybe that ones bad. I'm not sure. :/

  9. #9
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    Okay so I put it all back together and took it for a drive, for the first time ever it went up to 93 and bounced back down to 87, hovered around 90 but I was just surprised to see it hit 93 so I'm going to drive it tomorrow and see if the light comes back on, although normally it takes nearly 1000 miles before it pops the light. In the process of replacing that part I noticed my dip stick seems kind of easy to pull out. I know there's an o ring on the dip stick and that the dip stick can affect the ccv system by leaking air past the o ring, it went back together so much easier and faster than it came apart. But, I also found that my intake manifold gaskets were pretty weathered, I went to the parts store they didn't have them. So I ordered some online and I'll pull it back off when they come in. The fuel injectors were clean and I tested them for spray pattern on the rail. I know I can't tell exactly how well they're spraying by this method but if one were clogged I think I'd be able to notice a difference compared to the rest. Ultimately, I'm hoping the coolant temp sensor was my problem and while I was in there I got to clean up a lot of stuff so either way the car benefitted from this procedure. If anyone has had this problem before please chime in because I'm desperate to have the light stay off. Anyways incase there's something I forgot to mention here's everything I did while I had the manifold off.
    1. Cleaned out the carbon deposits from inside the manifold.
    2.tested injectors visually
    3.changed injector o rings
    4.cleaned up throttle body plate
    5.de greased the whole side of the engine that's normally hidden under the throttle body.
    6. Changed coolant temp sensor on rear of engine block.
    7.inspected dip stick o ring and added rtv to the joints of the PCV/ccv system to prevent any small air leaks.
    8.ordered new intake manifold gasket set.
    9.left that pesky bolt off the bottom
    of the manifold for quick and painless removal next time!
    10. Put everything back together and prayed to the good lord above that the devil won't turn my light on again for some time.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    VA
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    91 535i
    My daughter has an 05 X3 with BT. If she didn't drive the car for a week the battery would go flat and the car required a jump start. Replaced battery, no improvement. Someone mentioned to me that the BT unit sometimes stays on 24x7' so I removed it from the car and and we've never had a flat battery since. As she walks to work in DC, sometimes she doesn't use the car for two weeks and all is fine. I tossed the BT unit in the trash.
    Last edited by UberXY; 04-28-2017 at 02:31 PM.
    Steve
    91 535i
    08 X3
    05 X3
    86 930
    73 TR6

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