07 328xi Runs but will not move

[Newb2bimmers]

So as I am new to the world of BMW, I decided to dive in head first on a potential flip. Here is what I know. Purchased the car running but will not move. Immediate previous history is a shop put on 4 new tires, front rotors and pads, new power steering pump and starter. Previous owner takes the car post repair with no issues and 5 hours later it won't move. Towed back to the shop to find a wire hanging from below just behind engine. This is where I come in.

I find the wire is for the engine oil monitoring system. The car struck something which dented the removable aluminum pan beneath the front differential and engine. In the process it broke the electrical connector on the level sensor which was stuck in the plug. I removed the broken section from the plug, changed the oil and filter and installed a new oil level sensor. Used all BMW parts, except the oil, which is Mobil 1 full synthetic.

The car starts and runs fine. I do not have any transmission engagement whatsoever. I do get a visual indication on the dash as to what gear the shifter is placed in. There are no sounds or engine rpm changes when I select any drive position, or reverse. The engine can rev but zero movement. There is no contact damage to anything under the car related to the transmission or driveline, just the oil level sensor and aluminum pan. The transmission and transfer case are bone dry (externally) showing no signs of fluid loss or tampering.

Additionally, I have several lights on the dash. They are an amber BRAKE, Service Engine Soon, ABS and a triangle with a circle around it. In the small window below these indicators, I get a picture of a cog with an exclamation point inside it, and a ABS in a circle with 4X4 beneath it. When I shift into drive I get the cog with exclamation point. In the lowest information window, where the odometer would read, there is also a little waring triangle in the upper right hand of that screen. With a rental scanner I am getting P1776 and P1777 codes which say left and right front CAN signal issues with the ABS.

This car has 88,000 miles and a clean history with BMW. There are no aftermarket radios or alarms installed. I've checked all fuses behind the glove box and inspected the battery connections as well as the harness connections beneath the removable panel at the passenger side engine cowl. My battery open circuit voltage is 12.5 vdc and my charging system voltage measured at the battery is 14.5 vdc. All wiring harnesses that I can see appear to be in tact and undisturbed. This is my first flirt with a BMW as most of my 30 plus years of automotive experience is domestic and Asian. Unfortunately my Solus is not configured for European applications so I rented a cheapee from AutoZone to read codes and a limited amount of data. The interesting thing is it says there are four codes stored but repeats the same two codes twice. When I attempt to clear them they stay and says they are BMW stored codes.

Anyhow, any insight available would be greatly appreciated. Ultimately I may wind up trailering it to the dealer but thought I'd prod a bit before I submit to the expense.

Thanks in advance for any helpful input.

[RocketSurgeon]

So as I am new to the world of BMW, I decided to dive in head first on a potential flip. Here is what I know. Purchased the car running but will not move. Immediate previous history is a shop put on 4 new tires, front rotors and pads, new power steering pump and starter. Previous owner takes the car post repair with no issues and 5 hours later it won't move. Towed back to the shop to find a wire hanging from below just behind engine. This is where I come in.

I find the wire is for the engine oil monitoring system. The car struck something which dented the removable aluminum pan beneath the front differential and engine. In the process it broke the electrical connector on the level sensor which was stuck in the plug. I removed the broken section from the plug, changed the oil and filter and installed a new oil level sensor. Used all BMW parts, except the oil, which is Mobil 1 full synthetic.

The car starts and runs fine. I do not have any transmission engagement whatsoever. I do get a visual indication on the dash as to what gear the shifter is placed in. There are no sounds or engine rpm changes when I select any drive position, or reverse. The engine can rev but zero movement. There is no contact damage to anything under the car related to the transmission or driveline, just the oil level sensor and aluminum pan. The transmission and transfer case are bone dry (externally) showing no signs of fluid loss or tampering.

Additionally, I have several lights on the dash. They are an amber BRAKE, Service Engine Soon, ABS and a triangle with a circle around it. In the small window below these indicators, I get a picture of a cog with an exclamation point inside it, and a ABS in a circle with 4X4 beneath it. When I shift into drive I get the cog with exclamation point. In the lowest information window, where the odometer would read, there is also a little waring triangle in the upper right hand of that screen. With a rental scanner I am getting P1776 and P1777 codes which say left and right front CAN signal issues with the ABS.

This car has 88,000 miles and a clean history with BMW. There are no aftermarket radios or alarms installed. I've checked all fuses behind the glove box and inspected the battery connections as well as the harness connections beneath the removable panel at the passenger side engine cowl. My battery open circuit voltage is 12.5 vdc and my charging system voltage measured at the battery is 14.5 vdc. All wiring harnesses that I can see appear to be in tact and undisturbed. This is my first flirt with a BMW as most of my 30 plus years of automotive experience is domestic and Asian. Unfortunately my Solus is not configured for European applications so I rented a cheapee from AutoZone to read codes and a limited amount of data. The interesting thing is it says there are four codes stored but repeats the same two codes twice. When I attempt to clear them they stay and says they are BMW stored codes.

Anyhow, any insight available would be greatly appreciated. Ultimately I may wind up trailering it to the dealer but thought I'd prod a bit before I submit to the expense.

Thanks in advance for any helpful input.

Ok, zero transmission engagement could be anything from low fluid, loose selector, damaged connector to something like an internal fault. Reading out the proper BMW codes will put you on the right track. The cog light is indicating a transmission fault, so I would start there. I am more than happy to give you the ISTA+ diagnostic software used by the dealer. You just need a ~$20 K+DCAN cable, and a windows computer with an i-series processor and 25GB of hard drive. The ISTA program is really quite impressive, it will walk you through a diagnostic procedure, then generally tell you what the car needs. BTW, what year and model is the car? I bought my own BMW as a non-running project, it's quite rewarding to get them running.

[cochise325]

This is a GM transmission. There is a big cable that plugs into the rear of the transmission. It is the main communication with the transmission and the car. I would check to see that it is properly plugged into the connector on the transmission.

[Newb2bimmers]

Sorry for the delayed response and thank you for the prompt reply! I ordered the cable today and should be here in a few days. I would certainly appreciate any guidance and assistance you would be kind enough to provide. The car is an 07 328xi. The issue came about suddenly without any warning. When I had a pre-purchase inquiry to the local dealer service rep, he seemed to think it is something aside from the transmission itself as he says they are somewhat bulletproof and they almost never see a unit problem unless it has been neglected or abused. I just learned how to check the fluid level so that is on the list of diagnostics as well. It's great to learn something new. I've never even driven one of these BMW's let alone work on one so I'm stoked to get it to move on it's own.

[Newb2bimmers]

Thank you for your response! Interesting in that the dealer said to check to see that the shift cable fell off. At first I thought I'd be looking for a mechanical cable but you indicate a cable that is for communication. I will be sure to look at this as your response makes more sense. It will be a few days before I can get it back in and get under it so I will keep you posted on what I find, thank you!

[Newb2bimmers]

Ok, zero transmission engagement could be anything from low fluid, loose selector, damaged connector to something like an internal fault. Reading out the proper BMW codes will put you on the right track. The cog light is indicating a transmission fault, so I would start there. I am more than happy to give you the ISTA+ diagnostic software used by the dealer. You just need a ~$20 K+DCAN cable, and a windows computer with an i-series processor and 25GB of hard drive. The ISTA program is really quite impressive, it will walk you through a diagnostic procedure, then generally tell you what the car needs. BTW, what year and model is the car? I bought my own BMW as a non-running project, it's quite rewarding to get them running.

So it's been just over a month until I could get back to this. In the middle of some home reno so this is a side project. I've purchased the cable and would like to take you up on your offer for assistance with the software, if you are still interested. I plan on rolling it back into the garage in the morning and getting it up on blocks to check all the mentioned items such as fluid level and connecting plugs. Again, thank you for the help.

[SlackTube]

Have you tried dropping the trans pan and looking at the gear selector valve? You don't have to remove the mechatronics to see/check it but if it's broken you will have to remove it.
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...FY88gQodyTkAzQ

these are not uncommon to break and they will cause the car to run fine but not move at all when put in D or R

[Newb2bimmers]

Have you tried dropping the trans pan and looking at the gear selector valve? You don't have to remove the mechatronics to see/check it but if it's broken you will have to remove it.
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...FY88gQodyTkAzQ

these are not uncommon to break and they will cause the car to run fine but not move at all when put in D or R

No I have not. I will take a look at that as well if the other checks do not provide any answers. I'll keep you posted on what I find, thank you.

[Newb2bimmers]

No I have not. I will take a look at that as well if the other checks do not provide any answers. I'll keep you posted on what I find, thank you.

Took the pan down today and sure enough, the gear selector valve is severed right where the end of the plastic fork meets the metal shaft. It is broken flush with the face of it. Looks like mechatronics does need to come out as you mentioned. Any thoughts or cautions here?

[SlackTube]

MAKE SURE to line up the selector valve correctly...also make sure to torque the mechatronics bolts. Supposedly the have a sequence that should be adhered to as well. Make sure you replace the seals between the mechatronics unit and the trans body. They are round seals.
i personally wouldn't do it if your not VERY technically inclined but glad I could help with the diagnosis.

[TonyAngel]

SlackTube, I've seen a number of your posts and see that you are new here...WELCOME!

[SlackTube]

Thx Tony- I may be new here but not to BMW in any way. Hope I can help a few folks and promote the brand along the way. Thx for the welcome

[TonyAngel]

I'm sure that our resident experts will welcome the help. I'm not new to turning wrenches, but am new to BMWs. What a crash course it's been.

[Newb2bimmers]

MAKE SURE to line up the selector valve correctly...also make sure to torque the mechatronics bolts. Supposedly the have a sequence that should be adhered to as well. Make sure you replace the seals between the mechatronics unit and the trans body. They are round seals.
i personally wouldn't do it if your not VERY technically inclined but glad I could help with the diagnosis.

This morning I purchased $282 worth of parts from the local dealer today in support of the work. I asked the service dept if they could provide the torque specs and sequence for the mechatronic bolts. I offered to pay for the info just to be a gentleman. I was told, "sorry, BMW does not allow us to give that information out as it is classified". Can you believe that??? Thought I was working on a GM transmission not a weapon of mass destruction. Guess I'll put it out if anyone can assist with the "classified" info.

[RocketSurgeon]

This morning I purchased $282 worth of parts from the local dealer today in support of the work. I asked the service dept if they could provide the torque specs and sequence for the mechatronic bolts. I offered to pay for the info just to be a gentleman. I was told, "sorry, BMW does not allow us to give that information out as it is classified". Can you believe that??? Thought I was working on a GM transmission not a weapon of mass destruction. Guess I'll put it out if anyone can assist with the "classified" info.

All the cool classified info is in ISTA, feel free to PM me for free download links.