Need help removing a hard brake line

[540ig5]

1986 325es 5spd.

I'm trying to figure out the best way to disconnect the hard brake line that runs to the back of the car. #10 in the diagram.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=34_0153

I'm having issues gaining access to where the line connects at the front. Do I go from the top or bottom. Does anything need to be removed/unscrewed to gain access. What are the best tools to use for the job. Thanks in advance for the info.

[Kershaw]

If you're replacing the brake line, I am a huge fan of cutting the line and using a 6 point socket. If you're not, then you need a set of brake line wrenches.

Here's a pic comparing a normal wrench (left) to a brake line wrench (right).


I get it from the bottom, but I work on IXs, I don't know how your subframe is in relation to clearance there.

[e30oe21]

11mm flare on the line, 14mm open on the hose. It's a tight fit but doable. PB Blaster can't hurt.

[sienayr]

I highly recommend finding or ordering one of these, you can lock down TIGHT on the flare nut with no fear of marring or rounding it. Even better than a flare wrench. I got the smallest one to do all the rubber lines on my car and even used it on the hard-to-reach ones above the rear sub-frame.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-t...cking-wrenches

And yeah soak it with blaster for days ahead of time, more the better. I soaked mine daily for about a week.

[540ig5]

Thanks for the replies. Cutting the line and using a socket was a great tip. I used vise grips and an impact gun to zip them right off, no issues. (P.S. I had the subframe down, so access wasn't an issue.)

I do still need some help with getting the line removed at the front of the car, where it connects to the proportioning valve. For those of you who have done this job I'd live to hear some tips and tricks, the more detail the better. Do I go at it from the bottom or the top? Do I need to remove all the fuel lines to gain access? What size wrenches, etc. Thanks again.

[Bill837]

For future searchers, flares are also available in crows foot, which can ease the access burden a bit.

[Kershaw]

Thanks for the replies. Cutting the line and using a socket was a great tip. I used vise grips and an impact gun to zip them right off, no issues. (P.S. I had the subframe down, so access wasn't an issue.)

Nice. I was going to post that you should be replacing that line anyway (being a NY car) but I didn't want to be overbearing. Glad you're doing it. NiCopp lines are well worth the money, they bend very easily by hand. Unfortunately the largest premade size carried at advance/autozone is 72" and you need 74" IIRC for the line from the proportioning valve to the T junction. You can buy 25' rolls on Amazon and flare your own lines though, it's not that hard.

Replace all your fuel hardlines while you're at it. Give them the same bubble flare.