No crank or start

**Assassin27** · 04-23-2017, 12:31 PM

Was working on my car the other day, had the battery connected as i was testing the window regulators i installed and the central relay, the car was also running at the time too. i shut off the car to go back in and came back out an hour later to move the car back to where it was supposed to be parked. i turned the key to the start position but i got nothing. checked the voltage on the battery and it was at 12.2. so i let the car charge for the night and tried again today and still nothing. ive tested the blue/black wire that goes from the ignition switch to the ews and then to started but thats showing that there is voltage going to it. checked the clutch switch and thats alright (i still want to check that again). any idea what might have happened?

**jclausen** · 04-23-2017, 01:18 PM

Try another key

**Assassin27** · 04-23-2017, 01:22 PM

only have one key unfortunately

**jclausen** · 04-23-2017, 01:42 PM

Wel that is not good, because you need to have another key for emergencys and the problem could be the key. You can order a new remote or black wallet key from the dealer, that is the only place you can get them. The key has a chip on it that connects to the car and allows the engine to start, called the ews system. The common symptom would be you get all the dash lights like normal, but when turning the key to the start position nothing happens, no clicks nothing. A shop could check the key recognition in the ews but you would have to tow it there

**Assassin27** · 04-23-2017, 02:42 PM

Originally Posted by jclausen

Wel that is not good, because you need to have another key for emergencys and the problem could be the key. You can order a new remote or black wallet key from the dealer, that is the only place you can get them. The key has a chip on it that connects to the car and allows the engine to start, called the ews system. The common symptom would be you get all the dash lights like normal, but when turning the key to the start position nothing happens, no clicks nothing. A shop could check the key recognition in the ews but you would have to tow it there

Would i HAVE to tow the car or can i just send the ews unit with the key to someone and have them look it over?

**legoman67** · 04-23-2017, 04:54 PM

Originally Posted by Assassin27

Would i HAVE to tow the car or can i just send the ews unit with the key to someone and have them look it over?

Take ID and proof of ownership to any BMW dealer and they can order you a new key by VIN.

**Assassin27** · 04-23-2017, 05:31 PM

Originally Posted by legoman67

Take ID and proof of ownership to any BMW dealer and they can order you a new key by VIN.

This is gnna be my last resort

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**legoman67** · 04-23-2017, 07:40 PM

Originally Posted by Assassin27

This is gnna be my last resort

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Whys that? a basic key is about $40. Great to have as a spare, going to cost you more to tow the car to someone to look at it.... If you want a full fob they are about $200.

**Assassin27** · 04-23-2017, 07:43 PM

Originally Posted by legoman67

Whys that? a basic key is about $40. Great to have as a spare, going to cost you more to tow the car to someone to look at it.... If you want a full fob they are about $200.

I will have to see how much it is here in canada, cause the price may be more. But come to think of it, that makes sense

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**drewusmaximus** · 04-23-2017, 09:08 PM

I'm having the exact same problem and I don't know what to do. I started my car one day and the next day the battery was completely dead. I jumped the battery and started right up. The next day the battery was completely dead again. I jumped the battery again and started right up again. The next day the battery was completely dead again. I jumped the battery again and no start. Not even a click. All lights on the dash light up but, no click, no start.
Please update us if you get your issue resolved so I can try it.
Thanks!

**Eaglesail** · 04-24-2017, 01:31 PM

12.2 volts DC......is below voltage...for a great many electronic sensors to accept for 'output' responce' acceptance voltage. Read your battery...12.6 is set as standard in almost all applications overall.....If your battery is failing, it may not show enough voltage or amperage...the next morning...for the computer to except for starting...

**randy72877** · 04-24-2017, 08:13 PM

Check for power on the starter solenoid control wire (small wire) while someone tries to start the car. 12v means that the starter is bad. 0v means ews issue or clutch switch problem or wiring issue.

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**drewusmaximus** · 04-25-2017, 09:05 PM

What is a clutch switch problem?

**legoman67** · 04-25-2017, 10:43 PM

Originally Posted by drewusmaximus

What is a clutch switch problem?

Is the car auto or manual?

**randy72877** · 04-25-2017, 11:58 PM

Manual transmission cars require the clutch pedal to be pushed before the starter will operate. Similar to an auto transmission car having to be in park or neutral to start. Any problems with these switches and circuits can cause no crank condition. Op mentioned a clutch switch in the first post so I assume that his/ car is manual trans. Starter or ews issue is more likely. Lol just realized that op's car is a '95 325i. Doesn't even have a clutch switch.

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**drewusmaximus** · 04-26-2017, 12:23 AM

I have an 2001 325i auto. I believe this does not apply to me.

**randy72877** · 04-26-2017, 01:10 PM

Originally Posted by drewusmaximus

I'm having the exact same problem and I don't know what to do. I started my car one day and the next day the battery was completely dead. I jumped the battery and started right up. The next day the battery was completely dead again. I jumped the battery again and started right up again. The next day the battery was completely dead again. I jumped the battery again and no start. Not even a click. All lights on the dash light up but, no click, no start.
Please update us if you get your issue resolved so I can try it.
Thanks!

As for your car 01 e46 325 right? You seem to have two issues at the same time. You probably have a parasitic draw on the battery from one of the fan controls. Fsr and cooling fan are common for this. I would also check check the starter solenoid control wire for power while someone tries to start the car. How old is your battery?

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**randy72877** · 04-26-2017, 01:13 PM

Originally Posted by drewusmaximus

I have an 2001 325i auto. I believe this does not apply to me.

There is a switch on the transmission selector shaft that only allows the car to start in p or n.

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**drewusmaximus** · 04-26-2017, 06:40 PM

Originally Posted by randy72877

As for your car 01 e46 325 right? You seem to have two issues at the same time. You probably have a parasitic draw on the battery from one of the fan controls. Fsr and cooling fan are common for this. I would also check check the starter solenoid control wire for power while someone tries to start the car. How old is your battery?

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what do you mean fan controls?
Not sure how old is the battery but I'm sure it's a few years old.

**randy72877** · 04-27-2017, 02:01 AM

The blower motor for the hvac system is electronically controlled by a speed controller called the final stage or final stage resistor. Looks like this.

They fail often causing erratic blower function, no blower at all, and/or battery discharge. The cooling fan or aux fan for your automatic trans car has a functionally similar control built into the motor. If it fails you have to remove the front bumper and replace the entire fan assembly. The drain on the battery can be checked with a multimeter capable of measuring at least 10a dc. Should be 20-30mA after the vehicle is in sleep mode (15-20 minutes after key off, auto trans shifter light will go out) A simpler way to test would be to remove the fuse for one or the other and see if it goes dead again. They are 40 or 50A maxi fuses. If it still drains the battery reinstall the fuse and remove the other, charge battery and see if it goes dead. Other things can cause battery discharge, but those are the most common.

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**Eaglesail** · 04-27-2017, 07:34 PM

Take your BMW to the dealer...sorry, but they have the best electronic equipment to find the cause for your issue....and you are NOT obligated to them...then take your BMW to your trusted 'indy'...or repair yourself.

Sometimes it cost money just to find out....BMW would rape you here...very likely...dealerships do!

**MarcoZandrini** · 04-28-2017, 12:20 PM

Buy a Valet key. It's cheaper than a regular key.

**drewusmaximus** · 05-06-2017, 04:24 PM

I put a new battery in and still no go. No crank, not even a click yet, all lights come on. Dash lights right up, stereo works. Is there something with the factory alarm system that might prevent the car from starting? It does not make sense on how all of a sudden the car just won't start. I can see if I drove the car and the car was acting up to the point where it won't start but, the car has been on the driveway and started up great while on the driveway until it just didn't start up. I had the car on 4 jackstands the last time it started up. I took the car off the jackstands and it wouldn't start. There must be something with the alarm system or something that is not letting this car start. Does anyone know what that box is and where does that red and black wire connect to? The black box was attached to the fan shroud on the passenger side.
It has been unplugged.
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**randy72877** · 05-06-2017, 05:56 PM

Black box is auc sensor for hvac auto recirculation function. It's supposed to clip on to the top right corner of the fan shroud. The other 2 pin connector with red and black wires looks like something for aftermarket lights like angel eyes or something. Have you checked the starter yet?

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**drewusmaximus** · 05-09-2017, 11:59 PM

I have not checked the starter because nothing was wrong with the car. It started up perfectly every time. The car wasn't driven before this happened. The car sat for about a month because I was replacing the radiator, clutch fan blades, idler pulley, and water pump. After I installed the new parts I started up the car to make sure nothing leaked. I took it for a test drive around the neighborhood ( about a quarter of a mile worth of driving) to make sure the car didn't over heat, due to replacing the radiator and coolant but, I started hearing a thumping sound from underneath. I already knew the CSB failing so, I put the car on 4 jackstands to replace the CSB and guibo. So, while the car was in the air, I wanted to check to see if the car had LSD but, it wouldn't start. So, since I had no more time to replace the CSB and guibo, I decided to take the car off the jackstands. Then, since I was curious on why the car didn't start while it was in the air, I tried to start the car again while it was on the ground but it wouldn't start. Before I put the car on jackstands, the battery would die he next day after starting the car. I jumped the battery three times and the car started right up but, the battery would be completely dead the next day. I tried using the battery from my daily 1995 525i but that battery didn't start the car either.

It's hard for me to believe there might be a problem with the starter or a ground because the car hasn't moved since the last time I drove the car around the neighborhood but, the car started three times successfully after the last time I drove it. I can believe it might be the key but, what can I do if the key is the problem? I have a hard time believing the ews might be the culprit but, if it is, is there a way to reset or bypass the ews on the e34? I can't find anything on resetting or bypassing the ews.