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Hi all, I recently bought a 1987 BMW 325i and it has developed an issue where it gets up to temp at a steady rate yet keeps getting hotter at the same pace. I noticed coolant leaking from the radiator so I replaced the radiator and it made no difference. So I replaced the thermostat and still no difference. I'm only 16 and have only done basic repairs in my American cars, so I don't really have any mechanical knowledge especially with BMW. I can't see anything that would be causing the issue. I read that if the fan that's behind the radiator wiggles it means the water pump is bad but mine is pretty tight, but who knows if that's true. Also the cars starter just broke, but I don't think there is any correlation. Any advice is appreciated!
Thanks
Mike
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paper mechanic
check under the oil cap on the valve cover. you are checking for a milky or foamy residue. would kinda be the color of cappuccino. also check the oil dipstick for any evidence of coolant. i suspect the head gasket has blown. this in tandem with other cooling system issues likely is why the car got parked in the first place. best time to check is after the car has run for a short period with a warm engine.
⅂!ʈө !ƨ l!ʞө ɐ ʇөlөbµouө
^ Blowing the headgasket within 16k miles sounds like a challenge, but who knows indeed.
OP, does it overheat while driving, or only when standing still?
When you mentioned that it overheated while moving it around on the driveway it sounded to me that your fan clutch is shot.
This would mean that your fan is spinning, but not as fast as it should to create enough drag through your radiator to cool down the radiator.
If it also overheats while going 30+ miles an hour this will not be your (only) issue though.
^ true story
D̶i̶b̶s̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶E̶2̶1̶
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I've only driven it up to 40 and have never gone more than a mile as the car is not registered. But it does overheat while driving. I have noticed that the first fan up by the grill does not spin at all.Originally Posted by 323i E30
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I haven't noticed any coolant in the oil. Once the new starter is in I will definitely check under the oil cap and see what it looks like. Thanks for the info.
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Is it actually overheating? Are you going by the gauge or are there other signs and where does the needle sit when it is completely cold. Once it gets past operating temperature is the upper radiator hose getting hot? A IR temperature gun would help to take some readings.
Member
Remember, there was nothing in the cooling system when you first got the car. For $100 you can get a timing belt kit and a water pump plus the cover gasket and new coolant to fill in. Give it a good flushing, it could have corrosion/rust since it sat dry for so long.
i sure wish I could buy the car from you, I would come and get it right away....
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When cold the gauge sits just below the blue tab, and the needle moves steady up to temp, then past it. I touched one of the hoses by the radiator and it was very hot.
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Planning on doing tbelt I will get a new gasket and water pump as well. I also ordered all the other belts in the car as well as new spark plugs. Thanks for the tip
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BMW CCA Member
I believe once you replace the water pump it should run fine. When replacing the pump be sure to clean the cavity real well and make sure the block cooling ports are clean as well.
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Do a radiator flush with cleaner. Leave cleaner and water and drive it for a day. Flush system again. Use Bmw coolant mix with distilled water...Make sure you bleed the system propery thereafter. Also, change thermostat. If that does not do it, you might have a bad waterpump and blow head gasket.
Member
if it overheats while driving its not the fan. (unless you have more than one issue).
you need to verify it IS over heating. as the temp goes up, does the electric fan come on. if not, that may and indication that its just the temp sending unit.
air in the cooling system.
if you have a bad fan clutch you will be able to easily stop the fan while the engine is idling.
spin the fan with it cold then compare it when hot.
[__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: 86 PORSCHE 930
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[_:_] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: mazda B2200
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I didn't explain the issue correctly, when sitting at idle it over heats but stops before reaching the red part of the temp gauge. When I rev the engine a few times the temp gauge flies back to the middle then overheats again after 3 or 4 minutes. Not sure what it does when driving as I have not registered the car yet so I can't really drive it for a long period of time
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Sounds like a weak fan clutch and/or air in the cooling system based on your most recent post.
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Hmmm interesting, should I re bleed cooling system?
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smokes at gas stations
It wouldn't hurt to try. I prefer to raise the car a little so the bleeder screw is the highest point up front which helps air escape the system. DRVN2WN mentioned it could be a weak fan clutch, you can do the "newspaper" test to check the fan.
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How would I do that?
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smokes at gas stations
Drive up on ramps, park on a hill, raise the front with a floor jack and use stands.
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Haha I meant the newspaper test, sorry for the confusion.
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overheats because it is a 30 year old car
smokes at gas stations
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Thanks! Will try it
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Those fan blades are plastic - be sure to just do the one sheet of newspaper and with the engine at low idle, as shown in that video. If it's the original fan, brittle plastic and maybe a hairline crack or two could lead the "newspaper test" damage a blade.
On my recent timing belt & water pump change, we found the fan had one blade missing a chunk and a couple others cracked.
I also had trouble with "overheating" where temp gauge would keep rising; driving in the rain, once up to temp it would bounce around a bit. Turned out to be a loose ground wire on the cluster panel. Tightened up and now seems ok.
Jbird
Read coolant temps with heat gun, upper and lower hoses
Member
"So I believe the fan clutch is screwed."
Love the way that video ends. Hilarious.
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
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