Hi everyone,
I've been reading threads about boost for a few years now. It's been heavy on mind lately. Somehow I convinced myself to pull the trigger a few days ago. I know what I'm about to jump into but the question is how deep will I go. Knowing myself I would say this habit will last as long as I do.
The engine to be boosted:
m52 block that was skimmed .02" iirc, honed at a machine shop
m54b30 crank, rods, pistons
ARP main and head studs
m50 head decked and seals done
CES cuttring HG (NO SPACER)
m50 intake
New crank, cam, and IAT sensors
bored out stock throttle body
max psi icv hoses
oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp gauges
n54 exhaust studs
fresh main and rod bearings
fresh Mahle rings gapped to .19 , .16, .14" iirc
dr. Vanos
s50 cams, lifters, valve springs
oil pump nut wired
fresh timing chains/guides/ tensioners
fresh gaskets
S54 oil pan and pump
ACT clutch and 11lb flywheel
LC-2 wideband
Stewart water pump
New t-stat
Walbro 255
Im sure there's a bit more but I'm on a train in Germany and don't have my file. This engine has about 600 miles NA on it and ran great with good power never even noticeable smoke from it. Made my gutted "330" feel faster then my m3 and it might have been. The only issues I had was due to a weak fuel pump and using the miller war chip without knowing enough about tuning. The s50 tune was never really right. I got it closer but it wasn't perfect. Then a pin broke off of the chip while trying to remove it. Needless to say I realized that setup wasn't for me.
image.jpgimage.jpg
On to the turbo bits. So far this is what I've bought:
cragg56's old kit
Custom Otis Built SS Twin Scroll Top Mount Manifold w/ 66mm WG Flange
Precision PW66 Wastegate
3.5" Stainless Downpipe w/ Recirculated Wastegate and lava wrap
Tial 50mm BOV
4" intercooler
3" Intercooler Piping
3" exhaust with a magniflow high flow cat and muffler has Ccv port and 2x O2 bungs
rajicase's old TRM tune and 60lb injectors
Things I need:
areomotive FPR
fuel lines
turbo oil lines
TRM MAF
Probably a Custom tune revision
Some exhaust work to connect the down pipe to the rest of the exhaust
boost gauge
TURBO!!
I kind of have my mind made up on the 257sxe but would like input on what AR to get.
Goals
Simple and reliable
Not open the engine
Do it right
Do it once
~400whp
keep the engine together
As for the car. Well it's only a stock 325 shell. Wonder why the engines only got 600 miles on it? The last car ended up in a ditch and royally bent the frame rails. Good news is my engines out. Bad news I have an entire cars worth of parts to put on the new shell as well as turbo bits. This car will be gutted. Also it's not my DD but I have to trust to take on weekend trips.
Feedback, questions, tips, opinions, and criticism are welcome and appreciated.
looks like you will net 500+ whp on e85 easily.
Oops I left that detail out! I only have 93 octane within ~80 miles of me. I'm thinking a meth kit may the best way to go.
And 400 whp is only an appetizer. Plan for 600whp if you want to save some money in the long run.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Because I will want more the 400whp or that won't be reliable on stock compression.
I completely agree and I know I'll want more. Long term I want forged internals. I really do think that 400whp will keep me happy for awhile. Lots of my driving is on twisty back roads.
A cut ring will get you to 600 whp. Stock compression is very limiting and an old stock head gasket won't be reliable.
IMHO 660 whp is pretty fun on twisty back roads.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
The engine does have a cutring head gasket. I understand that stock compression will be limiting but the question is at what point and can I get 400whp.
I totally believe you. I'm just not sure I can aford everything else that goes along with 660whp.
I do have the advantage of never riding in a turbo e36.
600+ whp need many more parts to be 'reliable'. Try not to buy parts that will limit you to 400 whp ie small turbo, CX racing turbo kit, NA exhaust pieces, a clutch that can't handle big torque etc.
With the torque you will make at 400+ whp the stock head gasket and studs will faile soon, especially if you get detonation from bad gas or turning up the boost. The head gasket is best done while the turbo is being installed because everything will be apart.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Side note: when you look at people's build sheets it looks daunting and expensive but some of us have spent years swapping in these parts to get to where we are today and with that, the experience to know what works and what would have been better choices.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Maybe I didnt write the engine list clearly. That list is what I have already built and what I have bought as far as turbo parts. I feel like my only real limiting factor here is I'm at stock compression. Everything I have purchased is quality.
I get the big turbo equals less psi and lots of lag. There's no happy medium here? So I should really just put a spacer and new cutring head gasket? It's painful to think of pulling my 600 mile cutring out sending the head out and buying the spacer and head gasket.
Why don't you use run the copper spacer with the cut ring or did I miss that part
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I just thought it was possible to run stock compression and make a little less power. Looks like so far everyone's saying I need to run the spacer. The engines already assembled and has been run. So looks like I'll have to buy the combo and get the head decked.
Ya, sorry, I didn't read the finer details of your build. You have some good stuff there but no spacer was a mistake for sure.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Yes I agree I should have done that. Original plan was to leave it NA for a year. Since the engines out and parts popped up I pulled the trigger early. I have a spare head I will take in and get checked, cleaned up and decked. Then I'll bite the bullet for the spacer and HG.
Here is something i put together as a guide. Its not a bible but it is a tool to understand how boost, octane, and compression play together:
http://www.22rpd.com/boostcalc.php
May it help you with your decisions.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by vollosso; 04-22-2017 at 08:34 PM.
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I think you might make your 400 rwhp goal on the stock CR motor, but the stock CR leaves you no safe room for growth on pump gas. You will be happier in the long run with the HG spacer so you can raise the boost later. Instead of 400 rwhp you could have 500 or even a little more. It's a lot easier to redo now but you could redo it later if you don't mind taking everything apart.
E85 is not available ? If so, well run it.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Awesome boost calculator! That makes it much easier to toy around with different combos. I should really just run the spacer now that the engines out. If I just knew that there was a good machine shop close by this wouldn't seem like such a challenge.
I have not not been able to find any e85 close. That said I'm going to search a little harder it I also don't really want to hunt fuel down later on.
Last edited by jakeE36325; 04-23-2017 at 03:14 AM.
Cars are only fun when they are fast enough that you might die anytime you floor it. 400 does not give you that lol
328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
9.20 at 150 on 22psi
i would just be careful 93 oct+ meth on stock comp with out a spacer is kinda risky i would def tell ya grab a spacer and cutring combo.
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