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Thread: Jake's First Boost Endeavour (Keepin' It Together)

  1. #1
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    Jake's First Boost Endeavour (Keepin' It Together)

    Hi everyone,

    I've been reading threads about boost for a few years now. It's been heavy on mind lately. Somehow I convinced myself to pull the trigger a few days ago. I know what I'm about to jump into but the question is how deep will I go. Knowing myself I would say this habit will last as long as I do.

    The engine to be boosted:

    m52 block that was skimmed .02" iirc, honed at a machine shop
    m54b30 crank, rods, pistons
    ARP main and head studs
    m50 head decked and seals done
    CES cuttring HG (NO SPACER)
    m50 intake
    New crank, cam, and IAT sensors
    bored out stock throttle body
    max psi icv hoses
    oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp gauges
    n54 exhaust studs
    fresh main and rod bearings
    fresh Mahle rings gapped to .19 , .16, .14" iirc
    dr. Vanos
    s50 cams, lifters, valve springs
    oil pump nut wired
    fresh timing chains/guides/ tensioners
    fresh gaskets
    S54 oil pan and pump
    ACT clutch and 11lb flywheel
    LC-2 wideband
    Stewart water pump
    New t-stat
    Walbro 255

    Im sure there's a bit more but I'm on a train in Germany and don't have my file. This engine has about 600 miles NA on it and ran great with good power never even noticeable smoke from it. Made my gutted "330" feel faster then my m3 and it might have been. The only issues I had was due to a weak fuel pump and using the miller war chip without knowing enough about tuning. The s50 tune was never really right. I got it closer but it wasn't perfect. Then a pin broke off of the chip while trying to remove it. Needless to say I realized that setup wasn't for me.

    image.jpgimage.jpg


    On to the turbo bits. So far this is what I've bought:

    cragg56's old kit

    Custom Otis Built SS Twin Scroll Top Mount Manifold w/ 66mm WG Flange
    Precision PW66 Wastegate
    3.5" Stainless Downpipe w/ Recirculated Wastegate and lava wrap
    Tial 50mm BOV
    4" intercooler
    3" Intercooler Piping
    3" exhaust with a magniflow high flow cat and muffler has Ccv port and 2x O2 bungs
    rajicase's old TRM tune and 60lb injectors

    Things I need:

    areomotive FPR
    fuel lines
    turbo oil lines
    TRM MAF
    Probably a Custom tune revision
    Some exhaust work to connect the down pipe to the rest of the exhaust
    boost gauge


    TURBO!!
    I kind of have my mind made up on the 257sxe but would like input on what AR to get.

    Goals

    Simple and reliable
    Not open the engine
    Do it right
    Do it once
    ~400whp
    keep the engine together

    As for the car. Well it's only a stock 325 shell. Wonder why the engines only got 600 miles on it? The last car ended up in a ditch and royally bent the frame rails. Good news is my engines out. Bad news I have an entire cars worth of parts to put on the new shell as well as turbo bits. This car will be gutted. Also it's not my DD but I have to trust to take on weekend trips.


    Feedback, questions, tips, opinions, and criticism are welcome and appreciated.

  2. #2
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    e36 325is turbo m3 swap
    looks like you will net 500+ whp on e85 easily.

  3. #3
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    Oops I left that detail out! I only have 93 octane within ~80 miles of me. I'm thinking a meth kit may the best way to go.

  4. #4
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    stock compression with 91? I think you are going to regret that.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  5. #5
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    And 400 whp is only an appetizer. Plan for 600whp if you want to save some money in the long run.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    And 400 whp is only an appetizer. Plan for 600whp if you want to save some money in the long run.
    Don't remind me.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    stock compression with 91? I think you are going to regret that.
    Because I will want more the 400whp or that won't be reliable on stock compression.

    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    And 400 whp is only an appetizer. Plan for 600whp if you want to save some money in the long run.
    I completely agree and I know I'll want more. Long term I want forged internals. I really do think that 400whp will keep me happy for awhile. Lots of my driving is on twisty back roads.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakeE36325 View Post
    I really do think that 400whp will keep me happy for awhile.
    Vollosso does this sound familiar?

  9. #9
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    A cut ring will get you to 600 whp. Stock compression is very limiting and an old stock head gasket won't be reliable.

    IMHO 660 whp is pretty fun on twisty back roads.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  10. #10
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    The engine does have a cutring head gasket. I understand that stock compression will be limiting but the question is at what point and can I get 400whp.

    I totally believe you. I'm just not sure I can aford everything else that goes along with 660whp.

    I do have the advantage of never riding in a turbo e36.

  11. #11
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    600+ whp need many more parts to be 'reliable'. Try not to buy parts that will limit you to 400 whp ie small turbo, CX racing turbo kit, NA exhaust pieces, a clutch that can't handle big torque etc.

    With the torque you will make at 400+ whp the stock head gasket and studs will faile soon, especially if you get detonation from bad gas or turning up the boost. The head gasket is best done while the turbo is being installed because everything will be apart.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  12. #12
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    Bigger turbo = more power at less boost. Best for low octane setups.

    Usually, the trade off is big power for more lag, in your case, it's low power and lots of lag - but you do what you gotta do when you only have access to low octane and stock compression.

  13. #13
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    Side note: when you look at people's build sheets it looks daunting and expensive but some of us have spent years swapping in these parts to get to where we are today and with that, the experience to know what works and what would have been better choices.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  14. #14
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    Maybe I didnt write the engine list clearly. That list is what I have already built and what I have bought as far as turbo parts. I feel like my only real limiting factor here is I'm at stock compression. Everything I have purchased is quality.

    I get the big turbo equals less psi and lots of lag. There's no happy medium here? So I should really just put a spacer and new cutring head gasket? It's painful to think of pulling my 600 mile cutring out sending the head out and buying the spacer and head gasket.

  15. #15
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    Why don't you use run the copper spacer with the cut ring or did I miss that part


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #16
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    I just thought it was possible to run stock compression and make a little less power. Looks like so far everyone's saying I need to run the spacer. The engines already assembled and has been run. So looks like I'll have to buy the combo and get the head decked.

  17. #17
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    Ya, sorry, I didn't read the finer details of your build. You have some good stuff there but no spacer was a mistake for sure.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  18. #18
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    Yes I agree I should have done that. Original plan was to leave it NA for a year. Since the engines out and parts popped up I pulled the trigger early. I have a spare head I will take in and get checked, cleaned up and decked. Then I'll bite the bullet for the spacer and HG.

  19. #19
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    Jake's First Boost Endeavour (Keepin' It Together)

    Quote Originally Posted by jakeE36325 View Post
    I just thought it was possible to run stock compression and make a little less power. Looks like so far everyone's saying I need to run the spacer. The engines already assembled and has been run. So looks like I'll have to buy the combo and get the head decked.
    Here is something i put together as a guide. Its not a bible but it is a tool to understand how boost, octane, and compression play together:

    http://www.22rpd.com/boostcalc.php

    May it help you with your decisions.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by vollosso; 04-22-2017 at 08:34 PM.
    1989 535i - sold
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  20. #20
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    I think you might make your 400 rwhp goal on the stock CR motor, but the stock CR leaves you no safe room for growth on pump gas. You will be happier in the long run with the HG spacer so you can raise the boost later. Instead of 400 rwhp you could have 500 or even a little more. It's a lot easier to redo now but you could redo it later if you don't mind taking everything apart.

  21. #21
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    E85 is not available ? If so, well run it.
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  22. #22
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    Awesome boost calculator! That makes it much easier to toy around with different combos. I should really just run the spacer now that the engines out. If I just knew that there was a good machine shop close by this wouldn't seem like such a challenge.

    I have not not been able to find any e85 close. That said I'm going to search a little harder it I also don't really want to hunt fuel down later on.
    Last edited by jakeE36325; 04-23-2017 at 03:14 AM.

  23. #23
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    Twin turbo LS E36 M3
    Cars are only fun when they are fast enough that you might die anytime you floor it. 400 does not give you that lol
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    9.20 at 150 on 22psi

  24. #24
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    i would just be careful 93 oct+ meth on stock comp with out a spacer is kinda risky i would def tell ya grab a spacer and cutring combo.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post
    Here is something i put together as a guide. Its not a bible but it is a tool to understand how boost, octane, and compression play together:
    91 octane sadness.

    I'm going to have to be really careful with the knock traces...

    Excellent Calculator.

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