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Thread: Jake's First Boost Endeavour (Keepin' It Together)

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
    91 octane sadness.

    I'm going to have to be really careful with the knock traces...

    Excellent Calculator.
    Thank you. Its been really helpful as a learning/teaching tool.

    If your motor is set up with proper pistons and is managing heat well (proper intercooler, turbo within its efficiency, etc) you can definitely push the boost by a bit. You also have to look at cam size... I have faith in you. [if im you] Id start lower 9-10psi and work up a couple psi at a time. I assume you can log knock full time so that helps. Theres some unsolicited advice, but let me know if i can help with anything.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  2. #27
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    Bfc is sort of go big or go home you do not need a 700whp car to be fun. Infact my measily 500whp car is way to much power for correctly going around a corner... so I'm opting to turn down the boost to 10lbs when doing the twisties. I don't run racing slicks on the street and I don't know to many people that do. So don't feel like you need all this power. If your making it a straight line car then yes you'll always want "more." Build what you want not what bfc wants. Now as what's already been said you need lower compression for sure, especially if you only have 91Oct.

    Also if you ever think it's slow go beat up and down a mountain road like you would in a straight line if you survive and still think it's slow report back.
    Last edited by Mklock; 04-24-2017 at 12:47 AM.

  3. #28
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    I have 93 octane locally. I meant to write e85 was not available near me. I know a few things about myself and one is that I will always want more power. That said I don't need to drive around at 500whp all the time. I really would like this engine to last awhile as well as my drivetrain.

    Can I use rajicase's old to tune to run my engine with lowered compression and a 257sxe?

  4. #29
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    Yes you could easily but the s257sxe is a 500-520whp turbo. So if you intend to want more I'd run a s363 or Garret equivalent. I'm not to knowledgeable about compression and octane limits but general consensus is stock comp limit with pump gas is 400ish whp

    On another note I really enjoy my s257sxe was the perfect choice for me. Full boost at 3300 and does not have any boost taper.
    Last edited by Mklock; 04-24-2017 at 02:05 AM.

  5. #30
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    I don't want or need more then 500whp and if I do want the more some day I will have a different engine. That's just what I wanted to hear full boost at 3300 rpm is awesome.

    I will be adding a spacer so that I can see what that turbo can do. I actually think it's a good thing that it maxes out a little over 500whp.

  6. #31
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    I love it and as long as you get a correct oil drain you won't kill this turbo. Spool may vary as well I'm twinscroll with a s52. Oh they are cheap compared to most on the market.

  7. #32
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    The fact that you can buy a new turbo for under $800 is really great. I will be using a twin scroll manifold as well. What exhaust housing are you using?

  8. #33
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    Ported 1.00, it has t4 flange but the actual ports on the exhaust inlet is t3 sized. You should really open the ports up and match them to your manifold. Easy work with a carbide bit.

  9. #34
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    I was considering the 1.00 and the .83 housings. I'm glad you chimed in and it's good to know that you ported your housing. I will enjoy doing the port work as well. Being topmount, I will also be able to switch housings easily if I feel the need to.

  10. #35
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    PARTS ORDERED! I have placed my order for the cutring and spacer combo from CES.

  11. #36
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    I'm a big fan of having lots of power on tap, but IMO the E36 chassis and drive line is very happy around the 500 whp mark, and will probably be a big handful for the majority of drivers especially if they're new to that kind of power level.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post

    Thank you. Its been really helpful as a learning/teaching tool.

    If your motor is set up with proper pistons and is managing heat well (proper intercooler, turbo within its efficiency, etc) you can definitely push the boost by a bit. You also have to look at cam size... I have faith in you. [if im you] Id start lower 9-10psi and work up a couple psi at a time. I assume you can log knock full time so that helps. Theres some unsolicited advice, but let me know if i can help with anything.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I was messing around with that calculator. Is that true with m50 crank, pistons, cutring and spacer you can run 30+ psi on 93oct ?
    1996 332IS
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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS VR View Post
    I'm a big fan of having lots of power on tap, but IMO the E36 chassis and drive line is very happy around the 500 whp mark, and will probably be a big handful for the majority of drivers especially if they're new to that kind of power level.
    I really don't want or need to have 500whp all the time. At 350-400whp I'll be happy and hopefully have a bit more reliability. I have driven few cars around 400hp but don't have a ton of experience. I really want to start slowly and not rush to get to the max power potential. I would rather spend money on things other then drivetrain components for the foreseeable future.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    I was messing around with that calculator. Is that true with m50 crank, pistons, cutring and spacer you can run 30+ psi on 93oct ?
    The calculator calculates the maximum ECR a fuel can withstand. It doesn't take into account anything further.

    So yes theoretically 8:1 compression, 93, and 30 psi works.

    I think heat would be a problem there. I may adjust the model to reduce that number... 8:1 is silly low compression..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  15. #40
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    Pulled the head this morning and dropped it at the machine shop. It may be done tomorrow morning if not this afternoon. The turbo kit arrived and my cutring combo gets here Monday.

    Time to focus on getting the shell together.

  16. #41
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    6 hour turn around from the machine shops pretty good.

    IMG_0306.jpg

  17. #42
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    Gonna lap the valves or just run it as is? I'd recommend that and new valve seals. Budget oriented rebuild that works well.
    Last edited by Mklock; 04-29-2017 at 06:05 AM.

  18. #43
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    That was already done when I assembled the motor 600 miles ago. Should be good to go.

  19. #44
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    When installing the cutring and spacer where should I put the rtv around the timing cover. Under the copper and on top as well as the gasket itself?

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakeE36325 View Post
    When installing the cutring and spacer where should I put the rtv around the timing cover. Under the copper and on top as well as the gasket itself?
    apply it on the joints between the block and the timing cover i.e. under the copper spacer. That is all.

  21. #46
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    I would put a tiny smear the whole way around the front of the timing cover under the spacer. When they leak it is a bitch to get them to stop.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  22. #47
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    Well sh!t. I did a final look over the head right before I was going put it on and found a really small crack between the coolant passage and the exhaust valve. Of course I already copper sprayed the spacer and put rtv ont the timing cover.

  23. #48
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    Yep these heads like to crack if they see to much heat. Good thing they are a dime a dozen.

  24. #49
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    Yeah I'm just surprised I didn't notice anything when I ran it before. I have another head. Going to really make sure it's good this time.

  25. #50
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    Last one I grabbed was only 20$ at the local pull a part. I should of grabbed another.

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