Vibrations at 60...after having wheels balanced

[RedmonCooper887]

So my poor E34 has a bit of a vibration problem. It will feel really out of balance at 60, but not at 50 or 70. This car was converted over to a 5-speed stick by the previous owner, and the front transmission crossmember is missing. Just got the wheels balanced today, and it didn't go away. I have spaced off the rear tranny mounts so it doesn't rub anymore, but the vibration persists. Any ideas on what it could be? I have to go 3 1/2 hours to Tacoma tomorrow to look at an e32, and I'm not so sure if it's a good call.

[cirrusblau]

If it's a vibration felt through the steering wheel, it could be your upper control arm bushings. If it's vibration felt though the whole car, it could be driveline vibration, which could because by a few things like center support bearing going bad or the giubo going bad. Since it's also a 5 speed swap it could be an unbalanced driveshaft or the u-joints going bad.

[ross1]

Since it's also a 5 speed swap it could be an unbalanced driveshaft or the u-joints going bad.

My thoughts too, especially since it seems like the guy who did the swap made some mistakes. If the driveshaft was split to replace the bearing or cobble a shaft together from two others the u-joints might be out of phase.

[RedmonCooper887]

I can certainly feel it throughout the whole car. Suppose I'll get the driveline looked at soon, and check all the joints

[demetk]

What type wheels are on there?

[TheStigg]

My E32 was really bad. I started with the wheels, had the tires unmounted and the wheels measured for straightness. They were perfect. Then did a road force balance on the tires. Still had the dreaded shimmy. Next I replaced the upper control arm bushings, slightly better but still there. I measured the runout of the hub flanges, they were nearly perfect. Then I measured the runout of the rotors. They were well within spec. I had the rotors turned anyway and replaced the caliper guide pins and bushings and that took care of it. Smooth as silk at any speed and I can hit the brakes light or hard at any speed without any problems.

I had replaced the upper & lower control arms and bushings as well as the tie rod ends and idler link not so many miles prior to the shimmy problem. My conclusion is the rotors were the problem all along. I also suspect the new caliper bushings & pins helped alot.

Edit: More recent discussion here:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...past-40-50-mph

[Hofmeister]

My thoughts too, especially since it seems like the guy who did the swap made some mistakes. If the driveshaft was split to replace the bearing or cobble a shaft together from two others the u-joints might be out of phase.

Drive shafts are balanced per half so it doesn't matter if it got put off, what you describe are control arm bushings.

[GregT53]

Also check for bends in the wheels. My experience is that E34s are pretty sensitive when it comes to resolving vibration problems. My perfeclty smooth running M5 got out of wack after removing already balanced wheels and reinstalling them. Turns out they were not in the same orientation when put back on the car. Now, whenever I remove a wheel I note the orientation of the valve stem to the hub. By the way, sometimes it is necessary to have the wheels balanced on the car. This takes into account any rotor idiosyncrasies.

[cirrusblau]

Drive shafts are balanced per half so it doesn't matter if it got put off, what you describe are control arm bushings.

I don't think so. Bentley states that you should mark them before splitting if you're changing CSBs. They could be well balanced per piece but when you join them together they might not.

[ross1]

Drive shafts are balanced per half so it doesn't matter if it got put off, what you describe are control arm bushings.

I'm referring to the u-joints possibly being out of phase, not balance

[RedmonCooper887]

My E32 was really bad. I started with the wheels, had the tires unmounted and the wheels measured for straightness. They were perfect. Then did a road force balance on the tires. Still had the dreaded shimmy. Next I replaced the upper control arm bushings, slightly better but still there. I measured the runout of the hub flanges, they were nearly perfect. Then I measured the runout of the rotors. They were well within spec. I had the rotors turned anyway and replaced the caliper guide pins and bushings and that took care of it. Smooth as silk at any speed and I can hit the brakes light or hard at any speed without any problems.

I had replaced the upper & lower control arms and bushings as well as the tie rod ends and idler link not so many miles prior to the shimmy problem. My conclusion is the rotors were the problem all along. I also suspect the new caliper bushings & pins helped alot.

Edit: More recent discussion here:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...past-40-50-mph

That really could be it. The vibrations aren't a problem for my school commute, since it has low speed limits, but going to Seattle yesterday wore me out. The control arms look and feel good, too.

[Hofmeister]

I don't think so. Bentley states that you should mark them before splitting if you're changing CSBs. They could be well balanced per piece but when you join them together they might not.

ive done my csb twice, both times i marked the shaft centered and then accidentally erased the marks while handling the shaft or removing the bearing. Both times just threw it together. No driveline vibrations in my car.

Anyways a driveline vibration would get worse as speed went up, not stay at one speed.

[95525ibob]

I was stumped until I noticed my rims were 16" from a 98 car with no adapter on the 95 car.