1995 525it - Electrical, Electrical, Electrical

[msam1911]

I need help on what is admittedly my main weakness, electrical issues...

1. My radio will not stay on for more than 10 seconds
-I've replaced every fuse, under the hood, under the back seat, and even behind the radio
-I've taken out the radio and checked for oxidation on the loom/connector
-I've checked the Amp and CD changer connections

2. I have NO interior lights
-Again with the fuses
-Doors open or doors closed, I get no lights
-The "warning bong" goes off if I open the door
-No fog lights

I can't read an electrical manual/schematic...

Anything I should test for these issues? Or does my lack of electrical knowledge mean I should take it in?

I promised I've searched multiple times for each issue.

[prettyfoot]

Is it a stock or aftermarket radio?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Sir Montalbon]

You should pull up the rear driver's side carpet and the fuse box under the backseat and inspect the 30-40 wire splices found there. They often get corroded from moisture trapped between the carpet and floor pan. Unwrap the tape from each one, pull off the rubber cap and look for corrosion. Some that I pulled off just turned to dust. And you don't even have to know how to read a wiring diagram. Just peel back, inspect, and re-splice as needed. This fixed a multitude of electrical issues I had. There are some pics in this post to point you in the right direction:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...2#post29161852

[msam1911]

prettyfoot - It is a stock radio

Sir Montalbon - Thanks, I will check the pictures out and start going through wiring and connections. I guess I'll do the same with my rear hatch wiring for the ongoing Brake Light Circuit warning.

[gearheadE30]

Sir Montalbon is right - I had a failed splice back there in my touring as well.

The brake light switch is a common failure part on these - they have a set of high current contacts to power the lights, and a low contact set for the diagnostic and cruise control cancel. If they get worn and only one set works, or if they wear so that the lights come on before the diagnostic contacts close, you will get that warning. I've had mine fail in both of those ways before. It's a $20 part and relatively easy to replace. Don't buy crappy no-name one; they seem to only last about 6 months.

Probably wouldn't hurt to pull the general module and relay module under the back seat just to clean the contacts and give everything a onceover. The GM can be a source of all kinds of odd failures if they get wet, if there is a bad solder joint, or even if the electrolytic caps just start failing.

[cadam034]

+1 for the general module. Once it starts to go everything stops working correctly. I had a lot of the same issues as you in my car and replacing the gm fixed it all. If you can pop the plastic casing on it open then you can easily check the condition of the solder joints inside. Corrosion damage is very visible when its there.

[Onizukachan]

Don't forget to double check the fusible link also.