Full synthetic transmission fluid recommendations

[NE32]

Super quick question(s). I want to change my tranny fluid over to full synthetic. Pretty much set on Valvoline Maxlife. Is that a good choice? Any other recommendations? Planning on changing it out over the next few weeks. Would that blend of synthetic and non-syn be okay over a few week span? I'm reading it IS compatible but second guessing for some reason.

[SEOK]

I use Valvoline maxlife in my e32 Black label trans. Also the reputable BMW shop that replaced my trans speed sensor uses and recommends the Valvoline. Haven't had an issue yet.

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[masbury]

Make sure you get the Red not the Blue. The Blue is a blend of dino-synthetic. The Red is all synthetic.

[biasvoltage]

Maxlife rescued the transmission on my E39, highly recommended

[NE32]

Will do! Thank you all.

[MMMEAT]

Also Total Fluidmatic Synth ATF. Red..It's a multi VIS ATF that is good for a whole host of modern Transmissions. I used it years ago on a 525 and recently on my '740 and the thing's back working right again

[TonyPa]

Shogun may chime in on this. I used Red Line Synthetic.
I only dropped the pan and filter. So I guess that was a partial change? However I think I bought the complete change kit at ECS tuning.
I don't know know if you can drain the converter on mine or yours. So I'm at part synthetic maybe since about 300 mile ago.

[shogun]

You cannot drain the torque converter. As typical change of fluid without flushing just changes a portion = what is in the tranny, but not in torque conveter, and the ATF cooler and feed/return lines.
For example the spec says for 4HP22 fill capacity with torque converter 7.5 liters, w/o TC 3.0 liters, so basically you change less than 50%.
4HP24 with TC 8.1, w/o TC 3.1 liters
5HP30 w/TC 13.1, w/o TC 5.5 liters

I use Japanese ATF, as I can get it easier. No problem at all.

[MMMEAT]

I have to add, too..there are diagnostic tools that only your BMW dealer has that can REALLY make this transmission come back to life. Mine had all kind of issues, clunks, and whirring sounds emanating from the car when I got on the road two weeks ago. I spent a couple hundred dollars PLUS the cost of the Total oil I managed to get (and the dealer blessed me taking in whatever filter and oil I wanted) and gave them over 7 GALLONS of fluid and my tech was very happy that I did. It can take as much fluid as you want to give it..and if your tech is smart he can make use of it very nicely. Don't be fooled into thinking that an Indy shop has the tools for diagnostics that the car really needs. They don't.

There was a bit of a "grey area" with regards to the quote I got on the service itself, but my estimate was about 219.00 plus fluid. Worth every penny. In reality, my tech took way longer than is specified..He was doing other jobs at the same time, but was monitoring and reading and filling for a long long time and was able to make a lot of good corrections and diagnoses. My transmission is flawless now and the fluid was black and thick and now clear and clean and red as it's supposed to be. But I cannot emphasize enough-the diagnostics equipment at the dealer via the BMW mainframe is something that allows only them to "talk" back and forth with the transmission. It's reading of faults and communication with the transmission, coupled with the ability to re-set as they go through the flushing process, is very important..

I'm sorry I can't speak the language of the tech and what he said the tools can do, but I trust my "guy" and he's said many times that it's a bit scary to him to read people talking about doing this job themselves or relying on their lower-cost shop taking car of it. Sure it may all work out, but I feel very good now about the fact that every diagnostic detail and re-set has been taken care of.

Just .02..

[XAlt]

4HP22 takes basically any ATF. I've got MaxLife in the E32, no issue at all.

There's actually a Chevron product meant for legacy cars using Dex 3, the Mercedes guys like it.

[TonyPa]

You cannot drain the torque converter. As typical change of fluid without flushing just changes a portion = what is in the tranny, but not in torque conveter, and the ATF cooler and feed/return lines.
For example the spec says for 4HP22 fill capacity with torque converter 7.5 liters, w/o TC 3.0 liters, so basically you change less than 50%.
4HP24 with TC 8.1, w/o TC 3.1 liters
5HP30 w/TC 13.1, w/o TC 5.5 liters

I use Japanese ATF, as I can get it easier. No problem at all.

I bought that red line kit you recommend a little while back. So half of my fluid is..."who knows"?
Should I do that again this year? Or leave it alone.
I don't know if the two mixed can hurt anything?
Shifts perfectly fine.

[NE32]

When I first changed the fluid, I've drained the pan and added fluid over a few weeks. That way over time I can get most if not all the fluid out. That's what I'm doing with the Maxlife switch so I'll probably drain and fill in a week or two.

Where I got it from.
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_24.htm

There is a way where you can unhook the transmission cooler line and flush the system but I personally never tried since it was too much of a hassle at the time.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/220466

[shogun]

Should I do that again this year? Or leave it alone. I don't know if the two mixed can hurt anything?

Mixing of suitable ATF is a normal procedure, does not hurt, you can just leave it alone. But if you want to change all fluid, do it as NE32 did.