Old problem new view!

[snow663]

I just ran the pump again and it made a honking noise that reverberated through the whole car starting at the pump and you could hear it at the fpr. I think its safe to say i need a new pump. And after the honking noise you could hear a vibration in the fpr that slowly got louder then stopped all together followed by a gurgling noise and then the hiss i got in the video.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jc43089]

Yea, buy a pump, lifetime warranty from FCP.

[snow663]

I actually have a pump motor on hand with a filter sock and all that has the same connectors and design. Its for a 3.0 v6 that operates at 3.2 bar with 24lb injectors. Its dead head pressure is 85psi. Can i just put that one in the existing sending unit? Or will it be too weak? I would think if it can feed a 3.0 with bigger injectors at near the same pressure it can feed a 2.5 6 psi higher with smaller injectors adequately.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jc43089]

No idea, try it out. Unless the amp draw is higher and blows the fuse.

[boarder2k7]

Pump geometry will limit pressure to some peak value regardless of flow, but it will likely be sufficient. Certainly good enough for a test.

[truthbtold]

So ive been battling a stumbly bucking hesitant acceleration for some time. Today i found the trick to my dme. I have to press the pedal 5x again to see the next code. I got 1215, 1216, 1221. MAF, TPS, and O2 respectively.
Of course the o2 code is because it runs lean as it can go without pinging. The o2 sensor is brand new. But why would i get both a MAF and TPS code.? The engine doesn't benefit from either being disconnected or swapped with other ones i have.

Could a bad fuel pump cause this? a bad thermostat?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do your plugs look like? A test my father in law - former career mechanic - taught me was a load test. Put it in gear, with hood up and foot on brake give it some gas and listen for any arcing or other noises. In a dark garage have someone stand on the side of the engine compartment and look and listen. A cracked plug or insulator will act like this and hard to diagnose unless under load.

Lean can mean not enough fuel or too much - from dirty injectors, hence what the plugs look like. Lean usually means unburnt fuel.

we tend to overthink these things sometimes. Rule out the easy stuff before you start tearing into it or replacing parts.

[#1bimmer325]

Engine air temp(blue) 2.2kohms - 2.8kohms
90* - 190*. Maybe

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[snow663]

So i swapped pumps with the one i had, it ran better for a few minutes like it does when i reset the computer. The fuel pump is inaudible now. And the sound at the regulator is now an even hiss. Also the injectors are way quieter. But the ecu still leans it out to after its been driven. So it thinks its running rich and leaning it out causing my power loss. Now it feels like a bad maf. Acceleration is sluggish at low rpm picks up mid then falls onnits face between 4-5krpm then gains power before it redlines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ganymede]

So what's the fix here ? If its not the pump, then what ? Did you do the disconnect test again ?

[snow663]

So what's the fix here ? If its not the pump, then what ? Did you do the disconnect test again ?

Still inconclusive and inconsistent results. The ecu is learning a different tune every time its started. The only thing that restores lost power is disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for a bit before reconnecting it. Itll run fine for 10 minutes then it goes back to running lean. So its gotta be a closed loop sensor but so far none of the tests have given any results. I am starting to think i need a new DME because ive tried everything now. Replaced/swapped/ tested MAFs, TPS, TB, IAT, knock sensors, crank sensor, cam sensor, coolant temp sender and sensor, o2 sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors, FPR, coils, coil resistor, plugs, boots, smoked the intake, compressions good, vacuum test good.... im at a dead end.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ganymede]

Still inconclusive and inconsistent results. The ecu is learning a different tune every time its started. The only thing that restores lost power is disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for a bit before reconnecting it. Itll run fine for 10 minutes then it goes back to running lean.

That pretty much shows that your ecu is normal. It takes 10 minutes to incorporate bad data from some sensor(s) that is actually damaged. You have two bad sensors according to your error codes. Did you do the disconnect test with both sensors disconnected ? Disconnect two at a time on a hot engine, start and test.

btw your engine ecu does not have drastic adaptations the way an egs auto gearbox would have. So don't think along the lines of adaptations.

Still inconclusive and inconsistent results. The ecu is learning a different tune every time its started. The only thing that restores lost power is disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for a bit before reconnecting it. Itll run fine for 10 minutes then it goes back to running lean.

And this is not inconsistent and inconclusive. It is very very consistent and indicative.

Don't take this the wrong way but I believe you are not the right person to do this. We gotta realize when we are the ones in the way of the fix. As someone suggested earlier, you should put in a new ecu just for your peace of mind, because a used ecu is a very important spare to have on hand anyway. And if that doesn't work, take your car to a workshop immediately. Money lost can always be earned but time lost cannot. And the longer you don't fix this, the less you're going to want to fix it. Update your thread after they fix it.

[Ganymede]

There is another possibility if you are getting persistent codes with the maf and iat even after putting in known good working spares. The connectors/ wiring is damaged. Roll the rubber boot back from the connectors about an inch carefully and see if everything looks like it should. Test for continuity from the dme clamp to the connectors. Do both these two tests.

I'm not saying this will solve the issue that you currently have. But you certainly have issues with the maf and iat which need fixing also. Fix it all and do the double disconnect test anyway.

[snow663]

Its not generating any codes. Theres none stored. The only time it stores a code is if i disconnected a sensor and ran the engine. It runs worse with any combination of sensors disconnected.
MAF makes it run richer with the same symptoms, unplugging the TPS makes the throttle so whacky its not driveable. Both together it will barely stay idling. Ive satisfied the onboard diagnostic system to the point where it will not throw a code for anything not even o2 too rich or too lean. But it doesn't drive well. It runs fine until its under load. Thought process goes: incomplete burn due to weak ignition but ive swapped coils and boots, tried different plugs. Itll foul them out in 10 minutes. So its running rich. Tested fuel system everything OK, checked CTS - ok replaced anyways with new t-stat, IAT tested fine replaced anyways when intake was off tested new one before installing - ok

Update+++
Plugs are fouled black quickly in 10 minutes or so flat black(rich)
FPR has been tested and replaced.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[snow663]

Okay im going to post just to clarify because apparently ive been unclear.
If i start from a fresh reset (disconnected battery) the car immediately runs rich, smells of fuel, no power and really dogs down low.
After driving a block or so itll hesitate really bad and then goes lean and gains some power. 10 minutes or so into driving and symptoms progress to a sharp loss of power and surge at about 1500 rpm and low power above 5k rpm. If i continue to drive the symptoms change as i go on the highway. After a highway drive it loses a lot of low end power which it regains after idling a minute or so. If i give the throttle a quick blip it gives a chsssshh sound from the intake and bogs before the rpms come up.
The fuel system has been overhauled with a new o2 sensor, pump, filter, FPR, cam sensor, and has been pressure checked and passed with flying colors.
Next i attacked the intake and swapped a MAF given to me from someone on this forum with no improvement reverted to original and reset again. Then tested the TPS, installed another TB and new tps for no improvement. Also tried a new intake air temp sensor. And smoked the intake. All ok
Next i hit the ignition side of things and gave it a new crank sensor, knock sensors, coils, boots and plugs. Ran better till it fouled the plugs. Bosch BKR6EK platinum two electrode.
Compression numbers are all between 175-180
Manifold vacuum 18" Mg with no fluctuations
Plugs are flat black (rich)
Vanos and solenoid are functional
No codes stored
Thoroughly tested engine harness
Car does not respond well to any of the closed loop sensors being disconnected if any combination of them is missing the engine barely runs.
Anything else you wanna know?
I apologize, i am a newbie to forums and i dont know what you really need from me. I appreciate all the input though.

And please no "you're throwing parts at it" kinda stuff its 22 years old and was all original it needed it lol it was only a matter of time anyways. Just preventative maintenance

This engine has had this problem forever and it got a top end job (new HG, VCG, and intake gaskets, lifter job, leak test) 10k miles ago plus all the stuff listed above. This problem has persisted for 20k miles now with no resolution.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[#1bimmer325]

So ive been battling a stumbly bucking hesitant acceleration for some time. Today i found the trick to my dme. I have to press the pedal 5x again to see the next code. I got 1215, 1216, 1221. MAF, TPS, and O2 respectively.
Of course the o2 code is because it runs lean as it can go without pinging. The o2 sensor is brand new. But why would i get both a MAF and TPS code.? The engine doesn't benefit from either being disconnected or swapped with other ones i have.

Could a bad fuel pump cause this? a bad thermostat?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dont mean to sound desperate but whats the proper rway of reading cluster lights for codes? Can you send me a video? 1bimmer325@gmail.com

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[snow663]

Dont mean to sound desperate but whats the proper rway of reading cluster lights for codes? Can you send me a video? 1bimmer325@gmail.com

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

1) Turn the ignition switch to the 'engine run' position.
2) Depress the gas pedal to the floor 5 times.
On some models it seems they either automatically go through the codes on some like mine you have to press the gas petal 5x again to see the next code.
3) code 1444- no codes left to display press and hold the petal for 10 seconds and key off the ignition to clear stored codes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[B320i]

Dont mean to sound desperate but whats the proper rway of reading cluster lights for codes? Can you send me a video? 1bimmer325@gmail.com

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

What I'm judging from your profile is you're from Ireland. EU-spec vehicles did not get a CEL, so you have to use a diagnostic tool (i.e. Peake code reader) to read the codes, or got to a reputable dealer / indy.

[snow663]

What I'm judging from your profile is you're from Ireland. EU-spec vehicles did not get a CEL, so you have to use a diagnostic tool (i.e. Peake code reader) to read the codes, or got to a reputable dealer / indy.

Ireland? Lol!! Im in South Dakota, USA haha does my profile really say that? This thread is a bit dated considering the work ive progressed with. I found some small vac leaks and tested some more stuff i ordered an IACV for it because it now has a low idle runs lean below 2k rpm and revs hang high between shifts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[samy01]

he's not talking about you

[snow663]

he's not talking about you

Oops my bad guys. Failed to read properly i guess.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk