Light upgrades | E39 Non-Bakeable | G4 Bi-Xenons, Morimoto, New Adjusters, New Lens

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

That is too bad...
He was a huge asset IMO.

Auaq,
Those cut up lenses look scary...

Yes, cal45fan was/is. Jose is a great guy. He hooked me up with stuff I needed, and that's why I keep him alive around here in memory.

Non bakeable lights, it's gotta be done. mine looked just as bad, but after cleaning out the gutters, it's all good. Problem is, that's as far as I got, lol.

[auaq]

I had no luck today at the yard. Somebody already got them before me. May have to make another trip to another yard and see if it's still there.

Any place that sells those little plastic parts that screw into the chrome housing? Or anybody got some spares that is willing to sell it to me for free?

[blackknight530i]

I had no luck today at the yard. Somebody already got them before me. May have to make another trip to another yard and see if it's still there.

Any place that sells those little plastic parts that screw into the chrome housing? Or anybody got some spares that is willing to sell it to me for free?

What did you do to them again? I've found those to be quite durable. It's the adjusters themselves that become super brittle.

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[auaq]

I mistakenly threw them away thinking the the new kit would come with every part of the adjusters. There are three of those where the ball socket pops into each of 'em and is held on by those little T15 torx screws to the back side of the chrome housing.

As shown below.

[blackknight530i]

Start fishing

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[auaq]

Found one on eBay but I can't tell if the seller has only one out of three adjuster cups or has a set for one headlight. Have been looking over at the classifieds too, and so far no headlights are listed for sale. I'm now checking with Adam and others on M5board.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Asim, I just saw this, how many do you need? I think I have some. I gave a whole set to somebody about a year ago, but I think I have some more. They do hold up better than the adjusters.

[auaq]

I need three as shown in the first pic.

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One hooks to the leveling motor and two to the manually operated adjusters.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

I got 'em for you, two of the cups, and one of the goofy one that the leveling rod hooks onto. PM me your address and I'll have our shipper Fedex it out to you tomorrow morning.

[auaq]

Peeeee MMmmmm'd you.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Awright, got it, they'll be heading yer way before lunch time.

[auaq]

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Yer shwelcome!!!

[cnsorial]

Auaq,

Just spent about 3 hours working on mine. Thought they were bakeable but they turned out to be epoxied. What a pain in the rear.

What do you do with the ground wire that was connected to the old oem projector?


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[auaq]

I haven't got to that part yet. The old one is a ground wire but this new G4 has two wires, so I need to figure out that.

Yeah, epoxied lenses are tough to work with. Hope you didn't cut too deep and scratched the other frames/housings.

[blackknight530i]

Auaq,

Just spent about 3 hours working on mine. Thought they were bakeable but they turned out to be epoxied. What a pain in the rear.

What do you do with the ground wire that was connected to the old oem projector?


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I left the ground disconnected, but you could notch the metal lens frame if you wanted to.

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[jrcook320]

Those rubber spacers are how the bright/low beam aim was set relative to each other. You'll need to keep them installed. I had to hook my light up to 12v before I reassembled them to set the aim and it took a bit of trial and error. You basically want the center of the bright beam focal point set just at or above the low cut off line, ideally to give you smooth transition in pattern when the brights are on. Without re-aiming, your brights will likely be completely useless.

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[cnsorial]

I haven't got to that part yet. The old one is a ground wire but this new G4 has two wires, so I need to figure out that.

Yeah, epoxied lenses are tough to work with. Hope you didn't cut too deep and scratched the other frames/housings.

There are a couple of places that I cut a little to deep but they won't be seen once the new lens is mounted.

The two wires coming off the new projector are for the high beam solenoid. Those connect to the oem high beam using a high beam splitter that Paul linked in his thread, but now that thread is missing. The wire coming off the old projector just looks like a ground for the headlight, the new projector has no where to mount it. Maybe Paul can chime in.


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[blackknight530i]

There are a couple of places that I cut a little to deep but they won't be seen once the new lens is mounted.

The two wires coming off the new projector are for the high beam solenoid. Those connect to the oem high beam using a high beam splitter that Paul linked in his thread, but now that thread is missing. The wire coming off the old projector just looks like a ground for the headlight, the new projector has no where to mount it. Maybe Paul can chime in.


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Already did ^

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[auaq]

Yeah, I remember reading about the splitter in Paul's thread. I'm sure he'll chime in and can tell us how he wired the solenoid.

jrcook320 - I'll try to put the rubber spacers back on and make the necessary adjustments to make sure the focal point is at the center as much as possible.

[blackknight530i]

Yeah, I remember reading about the splitter in Paul's thread. I'm sure he'll chime in and can tell us how he wired the solenoid.

jrcook320 - I'll try to put the rubber spacers back on and make the necessary adjustments to make sure the focal point is at the center as much as possible.

Solenoids are super simple. They just wire to the 9006 pigtails, then you use the high beam splitters to go to the old halogen and shutters.

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[cnsorial]

Already did ^

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Thanks Paul. Just saw your post.

I thought to cut the oem ground "connector" off and use just a flat splice connector and wedge it between the projector body and frame. Where the bare metal is for the high beam solenoid.

But maybe I'll leave it disconnected if it won't cause any problems.


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[nikh23]

I left mine disconnected and wrapped in electrical tape. As for the two wires from the solenoid, I snaked it out through the back and placed the boot over it, sealed well without any problems. Will grab a picture at lunch.

Definitely make sure to pre-aim the lights before sealing it all up. I made the mistake of not doing so and had to disconnect my auto adjusting motors in order to prevent the lights from pointing all over the place. Whoops. Will have to disassemble everything and put it back later on

[blackknight530i]

I left mine disconnected and wrapped in electrical tape. As for the two wires from the solenoid, I snaked it out through the back and placed the boot over it, sealed well without any problems. Will grab a picture at lunch.

Definitely make sure to pre-aim the lights before sealing it all up. I made the mistake of not doing so and had to disconnect my auto adjusting motors in order to prevent the lights from pointing all over the place. Whoops. Will have to disassemble everything and put it back later on

I didn't have any issues with the low beam not matching the high beam lines. Not sure why everyone is having issues with it.

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[auaq]

One thing I forgot to get from the yard was the arm for the ride height sensor in the front since mine is broken. Interestingly enough a few of the face lifted E39's didn't even had one attached to the control arm. I couldn't even find the actual sensor too.

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They're pretty cheap though. I'm free tomorrow, so I'll make a trip to another local yard and see if any BMW has one. I might just put the arm in my pocket and just walk out without paying .... kekeke