Appreciate a few comments on the value of a 1997 4 door automatic M3 with 220,000 miles on the odometer (All STOCK).
Nearly original paint (8 small dents/no rust), good wheels, interior is only a 7 of 10, likely FL car its life, with three lights on the dash illuminated: Air Bag, Check Engine, Check Control.
I can tell the struts are worn, low brake pedal, some missing items such as the radiator undertray, one damaged front inner wheel wheel liner, etc.
Price is $4500 OBO...I'm leery of the trouble lights...I'm not BMW smart...
Thanks.
You should be leery. That sounds like a car that hasn't been maintained is on its last legs and is typically on classifieds for $2k for enthusiasts looking for parts car. You can likely find pristine M3 for 8k-10k and avg 150k car for 5k.I say so because I was in the market for several months myself and went with pristine 75k 97 2.8 for 5K. If you must have that car at least find out what's behind the lights and maybe have local garage do inspection and compression test. And start your bidding much lower.
Last edited by verobeach97; 04-09-2017 at 09:15 AM.
As said above, you should be ver leery and take it for a PPI.
Pictures will help to make a determination but based on your description, mileage, the fact that is not a coupe, and it's an automatic; if it runs and shifts good, I would say that's a $2,500-$2,800 car.
Good luck.
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough"
-Mario Andretti.
_____________________
River City Bimmers Chapter
2002///M3 Coupe, Steel Gray Metallic on black leather, three pedals.
2005 X3 3.0i ZPP, Black Sapphire on Terracotta.
1991 E30 325ic, AW, Black leather, Black top, three pedals.
To much money to many miles, keep looking
I would not pay more than $2500 based on the information you provided. Personally, I would seek out a lower mileage, manual transmission vehicle without numerous dash lights illuminated. Cars that are not well maintained tend to be money pits. And do you want to sink $ into an automatic sedan with 220k miles?!? You would not recoup your investment when you sell later. Just my $.02
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Check Control is your problem to cure if you buy the car. It can be something as simple as a burnt out tail lamp or headlamp. The Check Control Module tells you that the coolant is low, lamps are out, basic operator maintenance items that people with more mundane cars have to walk around the car and inspect for themselves.
AirBag light is an issue that may or may not be important to you. People drove around for 100 years without airbags, this light means you are among that substantial population. It can be due to a maintenance activity that resulted in a seat being removed from the car, then the ignition was cycled ON with the seat gone. The car goes out and polls all of the components of the SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) to see if they are there, if any component fails to check in, then the light is set. Even if the fault goes away -- the seat is reinstalled -- the light remains on until it is reset by a technician with the proper scan tool. (You could purchase a scan tool from Peake Research that has access to the SRS in your car, this tool will give you the meaning of the engine codes and the ability to reset the Check Engine light, as well as read and reset the SRS codes.) I forget, but I think the price point for the Peake scan tool is about $150. There are better and cheaper ways to scan for OBD II codes, but these ways do not include the ability to reset the SRS light.
Check Engine is the big red flag here. Unless you are a mechanic and/or able and willing to make repairs to your car, you should never buy a car with the check engine light on. In the People's Republic out here on the Left Coast they say that it is unlawful to sell a car with the Check Engine light on. The seller is required under the law to provide a car offered for sale with a current Smog Certificate, this means that the light must be off AND the car has passed the smog test. You can elect to buy a car with the light on, but you cannot transfer title until the car passes the smog test. I don't know that you have a smog test in Florida, but the idea is that the check engine light is a big deal on the Left Coast, and the buyer should not be saddled with the burden to make repairs before he can drive a car that he just purchased. You can, and should, scan the codes and understand why the light is on, then discount the value of the car for the expected repairs or demand that the seller make the repairs before you pay the asking price.
Having said that, the car is 20 years old, so with 220k miles it was driven about 10,000 miles per year on average. This is not too bad.
I won't try and talk you out if buying it, because I've bought much worse cars myself for much more money, but I will state a few facts that may help you withyour decision.
In my own experience, Check engine lights on cars that are for sale almost always mean bad catalytic converters. Not a super big issue, but definitely an expensive one.
220,000 miles is a long way for any car to go, but especially an unmaintained one.
The damage in the front you described sounds like the result of a possible front end collision. If the car was wrecked, run, don't walk away.
"pristine" e36 m3s are more like $13k+. There are fewer and fewer of them around with every passing year. Likewise a "pristine" non-m car value is also on the rise but less so than the Ms.
Unless you know your way around e36s better to look for something which is better maintained. Listen to JD's advice on the check engine light.
You really need to do a compression check on it. It's been neglected and could have a failed head.
If the head is good, $2200. If the head is bad then $800.
2017: no trouble lights, no dents, no rust, high miles M3/4/A is worth approx. $5000, maybe more if interior is MINT, like show-car spotless, which is rare AF. What you describe is $2500 tops if the interior's nice.
In general about BMW:
New/newer BMW = (money x money x money) x3, drive it all the time.
Used/older BMW DIY = money + tools + time, drive some of the time and work on it some of the time which can be very rewarding for the mechanically inclined... but also means you need a second car/truck for daily driver.
Used/older BMW take-to-independent-mechanic = money + money + time, drive some of the time and wait for it to get worked on some of the time, which is NEVER rewarding plus you still need a backup daily.
We won't even discuss Used/older take to a BMW dealer... not recommended.
FL still has good amount of pristine cars at least body wise due to favorable climate and great roads, so finding one for 10k is relatively easy. Just a quick look brought this one https://miami.craigslist.org/brw/cto/6077839907.html
AA tuned with 160k. Anybody recognize this here on here?
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Folks, many thanks for reinforcing my thoughts.
The shell is quite clean...two dents won't be able to be removed without body work.
I'm confident it hasn't been in an accident other than a bumper respray.
No service history...none. It does look well maintained until things began to spiral.
I believe the car has been for sale for at least a year...guess I'm not the only one steering clear.
I do like it as it is nearly completely stock.
Again-thanks for the input...I now realize there is an M3 section-apologies.
To further close this thread out...and probably against better judgement...I bought the car.
It will be a deliberate project with my son so investing time is expected.
We plan to install a small LS engine and T56 to keep it interesting.
Start of my build thread:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post29724879
Additionally, I actually printed this thread out and used it in my defense for negotiating. It helped...final price $3500.
Thanks again for trying to talk me out of it! Some just don't listen!
You never said it was Estoril, did you?! That's +$3k! #bestM3colorever.
Current:
98 M3/4/5 Alpine/Magma
05 MazdaSpeed Miata
Sold:
00 Honda VFR
99 528iT M/T
98 M3/4/5 Arctic/Dove
94 R-package Miata
89 Honda NT650
87 325is turned SpecE30
Wow! It's BEAUTIFUL
Oh please tell me that is just a sticker.
Doesn't sound like a sticker from his other thread. He's taking lacquer to it and scrubbing it off, slowly and painfully.
And yes, it's horrid. If anyone is thinking about something like that, for the love of all that is holy use vinyl.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
I wasn't aware the blue was sought after. I will say it pops still after 20 years (the sides anyways).
Yes it was a painted on M3 across the hood. Certainly a big detractor that the fellow didn't seem to understand. But yes, it will come off with elbow grease, unfortunately they scuffed the hood to apply the paint so the finish is damaged. We plan on repainting the hood and roof (clear coat flaking).
Should be fun!
Why oh why couldn't he have just put a "Stay Classy" banner, in a cheesy font, across the windshield and been satisfied? That painted M3 now ranks #1 for dumbest aesthetic mod I've ever seen on one of our cars. And there are lots of pretty stupid ones....
Current:
98 M3/4/5 Alpine/Magma
05 MazdaSpeed Miata
Sold:
00 Honda VFR
99 528iT M/T
98 M3/4/5 Arctic/Dove
94 R-package Miata
89 Honda NT650
87 325is turned SpecE30
It has now been excised!
A repaint will follow down the road for hood and roof.
;-)
Ahhhhhh, the car thanks you!
Current:
98 M3/4/5 Alpine/Magma
05 MazdaSpeed Miata
Sold:
00 Honda VFR
99 528iT M/T
98 M3/4/5 Arctic/Dove
94 R-package Miata
89 Honda NT650
87 325is turned SpecE30
Thank you for saving an e36 M3
Current cars:
87' Zinnorot 325is
91' Alpine white 318is
92' E30 Alpine white Mtechnic
97' E36 Alpine white M3/2/5
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