Alright so my 06 M6 Has been at BMW for the last 2 months (Patrick BMW In Hoffman Estates IL) and they can't seem to figure out whats wrong with my m6 As far as things done the Alternator Was Replaced , Grounds were all cleaned New Battery (Registered of course) . This all started one day after work i was driving back home and my car Suddenly Died but The Following lights came on DSC, ABS ,Traction control, YELLOW BRAKE LIGHT, Transmission Malfunction, Engine Reduced Power Mode, Start Off Assistance In active, High Battery Drain .... Has anyone had this issue? When the alternator was replaced the car Ran for about 15 minutes then all the lights came back on and took it straight back to the dealer
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Start with the IBS at the battery. Disconnect it and see if the car starts. Then check the voltage at the battery. When alternators go, sometimes the battery gets damaged. Take the battery out of the car, charge it up, then see if it holds a charge overnigth. Put back in car if it does and try to start again without the IBS.
It could also be a loose ground, given the work done - it does happen more often than you wold think.
Given that your RPM limiter is still up around 6000 rpms, it doesn't look like it's the Throttle Actuator or Idle Control - both of which have been known to produce the Xmas tree lights.
Last edited by gmak; 04-11-2017 at 07:07 AM.
gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i
"Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."
+1 for meangreen94z. To OP: Do you have the fault codes? Are any of them related to the starter motor? If not, you can probably ignore what's below. If so (and my money is on this), you would be surprised how little oxidation of power cable terminals (and there are many in this car), or GROUNDS, can lead to an artificially high resistance that sucks all the power away from everything. It seems to be a regular occurrence in the E60 M5. See below.
My car sat for most of the winter (Since the end of Jan 2017) because there was a "no crank no start" condition. I could hear a single click when pressing the start button - from the starter motor solenoid as it turns out. I used ISTA to look at which modules were affected - and it changed each time I did this. There were two constants in every case: i) fault code A0C1 - which is something to do with the starter motor; ii) E71D Message error (Auxiliary water pump, 0x2EC), receiver ... heating / AC system, transmitter auxiliary heater.
I have a short thread about this on M5board with the "no crank, no start" heading. there are pictures, and a video at the end showing how EASY it is for oxidized connections - even with a tiny bit - to create a voltage and current drop by increasing resistance. This is especially an issue where there are multiple connectors at the same location - as in our E60 M5s. Some people solve this by just tightening the big plastic covered nuts at the two terminals at either end of he wiring harness. My fix was a little more complicated (because my car is "one of those").
1. Disconnect the battery by removing the negative cable and securing it away from the post.
2. Dismantle the battery boost positive terminal in the engine compartment and clean off oxidation on all metal items that come in contact. Reassemble.
3. Now it gets laborious. You have to get down to the wiring harness and take out the power cable that runs through it. This involves taking off everything as if you were doing idle or throttle actuators. Also take off the plastic nuts on the two terminals that are at either end, and slip off the cables that are held there. Notice that there are 2 (TWO) at the front cable, and only one at the back. That second one at the front is taking power elsewhere in the car - and this terminal was likely the cause of my issues.
4. Loosen the top part of the wiring harness container = there are plastic tabs that clip over the bottom, all along the front and the side. I used a 90 degree bent pick to gently lift each tab while carefully pulling up on the harness lid so that the tab sat above the little protrusion that holds it in place. I also had some kind of miniature zip tie holding the corrugated wire bundle that goes into the wire harness near the front terminal (it's on the LHS up at the front of the wiring harness container). I didn't bother with the tabs behind everything near the firewall because the lid is flexible enough to lift up.
5. the power cable is obvious as it's a thick red "wire". I used a plastic moulding tool to lift each terminal at either end out of its square slot in the harness case bottom.
6. Take apart each terminal - you will need a 14mm socket for the post side, and a 13mm wrench for the nut.
7. Clean both sides of every item at each terminal. I used a plastic scouring pad, followed by 400 grit sandpaper.
8. Reassemble. Before putting the entire engine back together, I tested the starter by hooking up a good battery to the boost terminal and running an alligator clip jumper (small one) from the starter ignition-signal plug to the +tive terminal of the battery. The engine cranked - so I knew the problem of no crank / no start has been resolved. I'm hoping that it will fix other things through that second cable that runs from the front terminal on the wiring harness.
Last edited by gmak; 04-16-2017 at 07:41 AM.
gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i
"Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."
Car is still at the dealership it has Voltage Spikes Runs a Drives but shuts off when you give it full throttle
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